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Lincoln Aviator Maintenance and Repair



  • I like your idea.I would like to see a firm percentage ratio as you describe.An A.W.A is a crap-shoot at best.You are at the mercy of the dealer and the manufacturer.You are correct that having some skin in the game makes everyone a bit more careful.In my business,when fault can't be determined,I always offer to split the difference.It shows you are willing to share the hurt equally.

    There is no way a company could know of all defects,but we've all heard of companies covering up known problems.Defects that arise later are still their fault.They need to own up to it,make it right,and keep us as customers.I pay more at businesses that offer good service but I will not pay anything at a business that give poor service.
  • dlaradlara Posts: 1
    i have a problem after i start my truck up. i cannot get it into gear. iv bypassed it by opening up the access panel on the drivers side floor console but i have to do that everytime i turn on my truck. plus i dont have brake lights now since this problem. :confuse:
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    Sounds like the brake pedal switch - that turns on the brake lights and turns off the brake-shift interlock feature.
  • waamanwaaman Posts: 15
    It is definitely the stop light switch behind the brake pedal. The replacement is used for the Explorer and Aviators. This switch also controls the interlock mechanism for the gear shift. If the light don't work then no gear release. They work in conjuction.
  • My '98 Mark VIII has NEON tail lights which incorporates a ballast. If the ballast
    goes out, you have no tail lights & it also locks up your gearshift.
    You have to wonder what these guys were thinking when they designed these cars!!!
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    There is a reason they stopped making both of them.......
  • After four weeks I thought today would be the day,but alas,no Aviator today.Delayed by the likes of one o-ring somewhere in the equation.Looks like tommorow.The gear shifter part isn't available untill April.I guess more than a few have failed.More to follow.
  • No car today,engine has been replaced but during the test drive,he noted harsh shifting and and torque converter noises! I had the rear-end replaced already.The additive was supposed to fix the harsh shifting.I haven't had any tranny problems until now.Before too long the entire drive train will have been replaced.
  • Was told today that the torque converter and solenoid will now have to be replaced.Should be done on wed.I've kind of forgotten what the car even looks like anymore.Oh well just glad things are still moving forward.Can't say enough about the dealer though.I've lost some faith in Ford but the dealer has sure salvaged some of that faith.
  • Hi you guys doing so im a new owner of a 2005 Aviator! Let me cut to the chase, when i start my car and put it in drive and start to go my truck stalls even with gassing it ,it wont move all of the sudden my ABS light turns on, My traction control turned off and the flashing AWD LOCKED light flashes.... than my car runs normally after but only in RWD ??? its kinda weird some mechanics are tellin me its mechanical others say electrical ??? HELPPPP :mad:
  • abtrmanabtrman Posts: 35
    edited February 2010
    The owners manual says you can use the SETUP to check the status of the AWD system.The AWD is supposed to disable itself but still allow for two wheel drive.It could be mechanical AND electrical.I would guess that the ABS light is coming on due to the stalling and not the AWD issue.In any event you know what you have to do now.See the the dealer.Good luck.
  • It's back.It runs good.New engine,torque converter,solenoid body,rebuilt rear end,and eventually and new gear shifter.It's like having a new car.With a lot of history.
  • Follow up,the manual says that even during a malfunction,the you can lock the AWD.That's the AWD LOCKED signal that you are getting,but unless you totally deactivated the AWD,you should still be in AWD,not rear wheel.The manual has a series of scenarios that you should read.Like using AWD LOCKED on dry pavement is not recommended.And overheating can trigger a temporary situation.
  • terry645terry645 Posts: 16
    Over the past 6 months or so, the car has developed a really annoying humm or whine and I can't tell where it's coming from...wheels, engine, rear end.
    It's just barely noticeable at low speeds (25-35), but once you hit 50, it's like standing next to a 100 hp electric motor. It tends to ease up around 65-70, but it
    may just be that it's being masked by road noise.
    Anyone experienced this??
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    Differential. There was a service program or TSB about it. Check with the dealer.
  • Over the past month, whenever I run the AC and direct to rear of vehicle, there's a constant clicking sound (about once a second) coming from inside the driver's side rear panel (below the lock/unlock button). Oddly, even if A/C is selected by I change the temp control knob to part heat, it stops. All cold (blue) it starts again. I'm thinking there's some type of control / actuator / door or something inside there that regulates air / temp flow that is either stuck, broken or off its track.
    Any assistance or thoughts would be appreciated - or advice on how to take off some of the larger rear plastic pieces in that area.
    Thanks - David
  • ckorch06ckorch06 Posts: 2
    edited May 2010
    i bought my 03 aviator for 10,500 on march 20th. i Went to ford warranty's .com ( i guess it is and purchased the 2yr 24k extracare warranty from them for 1580 bucks. today my check engine light came on and i bought it to ford.
    was told misfire on #8 cylinder they would have to tear the engine down to find out the cause. that #8 had a 70% loss in compression. the service lady said since i only put 2k miles on the car since i purchased the warranty that ford might not cover it. Does this sound right. she told me that if they tore the head down and found it not covered under warranty that i would have to pay 1800 bucks to put it back togather? Should this be covered under the ESP? that is why i bought it.
    She also said that they will not cover a rental car even though my ESP says it does. she said it will be three days before i find out if it is covered then they could issue me a rental.
    If someone could tell me my next step to take i would love you for it. i just paid 10k dollars for a car i can't drive and from what they say it will cost me 2k more just to get it back in the same shape.
    I bought this car from a local chevy dealer and they said i bought it as-is with no help from them. Kinda why i opted for the ESP i guess.
    also to get the ESP the chevy dealer had to go through a checklist for used cars that said everything was fine at 105k miles it now has 107 almost 108k
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    Assuming that's a Ford warranty, your dealer is wrong. First of all - there's no guessing as to the problem - this is the infamous bad head problem with low compression on #8 and it does require the head to be replaced. It doesn't matter if you had the warranty for 2K miles or 10 feet - you should be covered (again assuming it's a Ford warranty). If you're not getting the coverage listed in the manual go to the service manager or the owner or call the Ford ESP number - or just take it to another dealer. Sounds like yours doesn't know what they're doing.
  • bostoncigarbostoncigar Posts: 23
    This is crap. See my earlier posts on this problem. I am two years out of my Aviator which I loved and am now driving a Lexus RX-350 because Ford did a lousy job with me regarding this known problem with the engine. I am a 5x Ford owner and I walked and tell everyone including Ford's CEO what a lousy job they did with this engine problem. If the car is under 50K, it is a easy warranty problem. If it is out of 50K and you were stupid like me and did not buy the extended warranty you have to fight Ford. The dealer can come up with about $1500 and the zone rep another $1K towards the $5500 engine rebuild. Now that Ford is earning a profit.. they should care less. Ironically, when they were bleeding red, they shoved me under the bus and now I tell everyone not to buy a Ford!
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    So you're now driving a Toyota product - the same company that denied in-warranty claims on sludged engines? At least Ford isn't blaming customers for manufacturing defects and denying valid warranty claims. Or lying in court and covering up safety problems.

    Every mfr has known defects that occur after the warranty period (see Audi control arms) and no company covers these defects out of warranty all the time. Some do (including Ford - extending warranty coverage on coils and heater cores e.g.). But it's certainly not something that should be expected. Otherwise it would be a lifetime warranty against defects which nobody offers.
  • ckorch06ckorch06 Posts: 2
    well i told them to hold off on fixing the engine the service lady told me i should wait a few more weeks before they do anything so it won't throw any red flags and get denied. Yes it is a ford ESP called extracare. I had to wait cause with my job being really busy right now i can't go 3 days without a car while they decide whether it is covered or not. They said they can't issue a rental till head is taken off and they find the reason for the #8 failure. So you think i should maybe go to another dealer? i also had them check the whining noise the engine is making and they said it is the tensoner pully's and that they are not covered by my warranty. 200 bucks.
    so i told them i would just replace them myself tously ford only wants 60 bucks for the parts and i replaced some on my cobra not to long ago.
  • migavi1migavi1 Posts: 3
    The door sensor gets dirty and cannot work. Get a can of 10W40 lubricant and spray the door lock mechanism making sure that in goes all the way in. It worked for me. Good luck.
  • aviatorguyaviatorguy Posts: 11
    edited May 2010
    Just completed a front brake job on a 2004 Aviator. As far as brake jobs go, not too bad.
    A couple of thoughts / tips for those wanting to tackle. I hope I didn't forget anything, but probably did...
    - If you're just looking to replace the front pads (i.e no turning rotors, bleeding, etc), it's pretty simple
    -- (safely jack up the vehicle)
    -- Remove the front wheel lug covers
    -- Remove the front wheels
    -- Raise hood / open brake fluid reservoir
    -- Prep caliper hanging tool (coat hanger)
    -- Remove 2 small (upper / lower) caliper bolts
    -- Work the caliper off of the caliper bracket (this was a bit of a pain and took a few minutes of rocking back and forth)
    -- Suspend caliper from hanger wire
    -- Slide out the inner and outer brake pads
    -- Spray rotors, caliper with brake cleaner
    -- Prep new pads by applying anti-squeal grease on back plates and pretty much most non braking surfaces
    -- Slide in new pads
    -- Use one of the old pads and C clamp to press in both pistons on caliper
    -- Reposition caliper back over new pads
    -- Reinstall 2 (upper and lower) bolts
    -- Reinstall wheels

    The real fun begins if you want to remove the rotors. It's not hard, per se, you'll just need some strength and / or a good breaker bar.
    To remove the rotors
    - Remove the calipers and pads (see above)
    - Remove 2 large (upper and lower) bolts on the back side of the wheel assembly
    -- I believe the bolts are 13/16"
    -- It took a heck of a lot effort from me, and the rental of a long serpentine bar with a nub on the end for a socket
    -- After removing the bolts... and the Caliper brackets (and some liquid refreshment)
    -- Remove the 2 locking washers on each rotor (I destroyed mine by bending the small flanges) Not too worried about them
    -- The rotors should come right off to be taken for turning or replacement
    -- Reverse the instructions (and you might want to consider purchase replacement bolts for the above) to complete the job.

    I'll look to do the rear brakes in a few weeks - and (hopefully) adjust the parking brake that's kind of worthless right now.

    Hope this helps...
  • aviatorguyaviatorguy Posts: 11
    In doing a bit of reading regarding the adjusting of the parking brake, many are indicating the parking brake is adjusted by moving a star wheel connected to the rear brakes. This seems reminiscent of how rear brakes pads (drum) used to be adjusted - which moved the pads closer (or farther to / from the drum. We also used to drive the vehicle in reverse and brake fairly hard to set the rears as well.
    Diagrams also show what look to be small brake pads serving as parking brake pads so I'm a bit confused. What I think I want to do is take up some of the slack in the parking brake cable.
    - Is there a way to take up the slack in the parking brake cable
    - Does my aviator really have 2 sets of different brake pads on the rear (caliper and parking brake?!?)
    - Ultimately will I have to adjust the parking brake "slack" by turning the "star wheels"
    This doesn't seem like a hard question or big undertaking, and am wondering if anyone can help.
    Thanks in advance -
  • troy04troy04 Posts: 1
    I've read many posts on this site describing problems with the Aviator. I have owned an 04 for five years. It has 60,000 miles on it. I haven't had any major problems with the SUV, but I'm concerned about keeping it after reading about all the problems, especially the known engine issues. I do not have an extended warranty on it. I'm wondering if it would be better to sell it before something does go wrong with it that will be expensive to fix. Does anyone know, how many of the Aviators have the engine problem? Thanks
  • I might consider it for parts.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,001
    We traded ours in for an Edge after the warranty expired, but we were looking for better ride quality and fuel economy also. If you think you want something new this would be the time to ditch the Aviator. If not then the odds are probably good that you've dodged the bullet on the head replacement after 60K miles.
  • waamanwaaman Posts: 15
    I have an 03 Aviator with 104K on it, yes 104, and it is still running like a new SUV. I did have the rear bearing replaced at 103k because of a grinding noise in the rearl. You have to keep it well maintained. Oil changes for the engine, the transmission and the front and rear drive boxes must be done on it scheduled maintenance. I forgot to mention that I am only on my 2nd set of tires.
  • dls10dls10 Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    We were cleaning the interior of our 04 Avaitor today, while cleaning the shifter the pin in the shifter head broke off. It seems that there is a little pin that connect to the button to engage the release for the shifter.

    So I have a meeting on Monday morning and while picking him up at the Airport I can explain that my shifter is broken, and I have it taped up and now its working like some type of backyard fixit man.

    Anyway, my question is has anyone ever had this happen to them before, I'm wondering if its hard to fix, if I can take the console out and get to the linkage and do it myself or do I need to take it to a shop and let them do it.

    By the way, I've had this car since 2006, great car never had a problem with it other than a vaccum line popping off and now this.

    110,000 miles runs great and I love the car.
    2nd set of tires here also
    Can anyone provide some feedback here?

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