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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • egkoregkor Posts: 24

    I have a '95 T/C with approx. 95K miles that sometimes, after being driven enough to get the engine compartment hot, will not restart after being shut off.

    It does not always happen, but it has happened three times recently, enough to make me lose confidence in the car. I would really like to "nail" this issue at minimal expense.

    When it happens, I open the hood to let the engine compartment cool, and then the engine will start again.

    When it is in this "will not start" mood, then engine will crank per normal, just does not fire. After I open the hood and wait approx. 5 to 10 minutes, the engine will fire up right away.

    I read earlier messages about tightening the ground at the battery, I've done that. No change.

    If this is a ignition module issue, could someone please post an accurate description of the location of the module?

    Thanks very much,
    -Gary K
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Once after towing a boat up to the lake on a hot day, our 82 Town Car would not start after launching the boat. I placed some ice cubes in a little baggie and set it on the ignition module and the engine started right away. Re: location of your module on your 95, I'm not sure.
  • freddymzfreddymz Posts: 1
    Hey I have a 98 lincoln and i was wondering if i could put a sound system (woofers amp and cd player) would it be alright or are there some problems if i was to go ahead and install the new equipment or is just a cd changer recommended
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    This car has a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which is located on the driver's side fire wall. It does not have an ignition module like on the older cars. I suspect though that your problem is not the PCM. It may be that the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor needs to be cleaned or replaced. Remove the Mass Air Flow Sensor and clean it. This is the component with the security screws located near the air filter. This is a delicate item. I usually use a cotton swab and some alcohol or electrical parts cleaner to clean the two small wires that are inside this item. If it is not functioning properly, it will cause the engine to mis fire, idle roughly, or may prevent the engine from starting. Has your service engine light been coming on?
  • Gary: Had this problem, again with a '95 town car. Replacing the fuel pump didn't work. What DID work was replacing the fuel injector switch(es). These cost $15 at a dealer and they instructed my husband how to install them which was a 5-10 minutes job. Haven't had that problem since. I still seem to have excessive 'chiming' when starting and turning off the car, but can live with this. Shoemaker
  • Gary, sorry, but I gave you incorrect information on my post of April 15. My husband says the replacements parts are RELAY SWITCHES. Rest of post was correct, i.e. $15 cost and easy installation.
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    symtoms previously were engine would turn over normally but not start. If key is off and the radio is on it will time off at 8 to 10 minutes. After it goes off the engine will start. That has been ongoing on sporatically for over 6 months. We could handle the time lapse on most occasions. Today,04-17-06, I started out and at about 5 minutes into the ride the engine quit. The engine will not start now. The battery is good, the MAF is clean, the engine will turn over fine but will not run.I have replaced the spark plugs . There is no fire at them. The motor has 140,000 miles on it. When it would run it was smooth and everything would work. The key on gives air bag code Of 5-3 . I am A working person and can't afford A machanic. I would appreciate good help Thanks
  • where is the security code sticker located? I already checked the trunk
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The code is usually on the hinge bracket on trunk lid. You can sometimes find it on one of the doors looking around the gasket areas.
  • egkoregkor Posts: 24
    I want to say "thanks" to everyone who replied to my "won't start" post.

    The next thing I try will be to replace the fuel pump relay. I know where that is at.

    Thanks again!

    -Gary K
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The answer to my 95 not starting was the EEC relay located in A device on the drivers fender well. The unit holds three relays with an external diode. The part was only 15 dollars. The help came from the local pepboys crew who knew what it was without putting it on an analyzer. Experience counts alot in this persons world .
  • egkoregkor Posts: 24
    Thanks for posting this!

    One of the three relays is the fuel pump relay, this is the part I intend to replace in my '95 TC.

    At $15.00 it is an inexpensive thing to try.

    Thanks again!

    -Gary K
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    I think you were very fortunate Pepboys knew that they were doing.

    One of my automotive repair peeves is an ASE certified techi at a service station will guess at what part needs to be replaced and plays around with a diagnostic console. Trial and Error repair is not professional and IMO should not be supported by paying for replacing a part that was NOT the fault. The dealership found the part needing to be replaced, but the service techie didn't know to replace the MAF, but the techie expects to be paid. :(
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    I'll see if anyone can help me on the brake problem. The car will drive short distances under 2 miles and I will not notice any problems. If the ride is longer the front brakes start siezing on both sides. I will have to stop the car or the wheels get so hot that I'm afraid there could be A fire. It really starts getting hard to move and the transmission lets me know to stop.The engine works harder. I like the car . It has A leaking air suspension but I don't want to tackle that until the brake situation is remedied. Thanks
  • mr_c2umr_c2u Posts: 4
    I have recently changed the battery in my 90 town car and now when i went to close the trunk lid, the power motor will not take the trunk lid down. Is there a relay switch or sensor that may bave tripped and now will not let the lid to come down, or is there a by pass fuse or switch to shut if off so i can close trunk lid??????? Please help there is rain in them there clouds over the rise lol thank you........ Mr.C
  • retired8retired8 Posts: 15
    I can't help you with the brake problem, but sure can help you with the leaking air suspension. Please see my entry #318 on the 95 TC. It's common to replace the entire system with 2 coil springs and seems to work perfectly. I drive it almost every day and notice no difference in the ride or handling. I haven't loaded down the trunk area yet. This could possibly affect the car attitude some, but it's fixed for good. I highly recommend it. I assume any good general repair shop can do it.
    Now, could someone please advise me on the problem with my cruise control in #318? Thanks
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Either exchange your new battery for a more powerful one and/or get the battery fully charged. Same thing happened to me and a fully charged battery enabled the pull down to work.
  • mr_c2umr_c2u Posts: 4
    thank you very much,,,, there is a second option for a stronger battery they offered me, but was told it was for the heated windshield only that it draws more ampige for that only but not for the trunk lid. thanks again i do have to get new starter put in or keep hitting it with hammer lol. after i put new battery in and only let it run for 20min i shut it off and it wouldn't start again. take care and thank you again..... have a good one
  • hisselfhisself Posts: 3
    RE: 1995 Town Car Signature - Passenger side

    I got the door panel off yesterday. Now, I need to figure out how to change the regulator. It appears to be rivetted in place, and the motor appears rivetted to the regulator.


    Any ideas?
  • mr_c2umr_c2u Posts: 4
    I took battery back and they fully charged for me and when i put it in the problem is still there it will not draw it down, looks like im going to have to take it back and spend another 40bucks for the stronger battery. i will let you know if this solves the trunk lid problem, because it worked before i changed it now it doesn't. i hope it isn't the motor..... chat back at ya again
  • chad09ochad09o Posts: 4
    we had a 1993 toyota pick up truck , we took it to a brake expert he redid all the brack lines and he had a new worked that put brake fluid in a soda bottel and put it in . the didthe same this after 1 -2 miles the water in the soda make it expand and lock up like that. brack systems are all the same think.. try bleeding it and get all the old stuff out and then cycle new fluuid thought it. and yes those air rides mess over . on my 85 i but spring and shcok on it saves time and money and rides like new.
  • chad09ochad09o Posts: 4
    i no how to fix the problem ..roll down the windows and drive fast. to much work to fix it .
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The car is needing just that. I will have it bled as soon as the money hits my hand. The air ride will be held off. It always pumps back up for the ride. The car will roll again.
  • crusty1crusty1 Posts: 1
    I just encountered this same problem with my 2000 Town Car
    I'm curious if you got the problem figured out and what it was. I tried buying a turn signal flasher ( hoped that was the problem)but Auto zone listing comes up unavailable.
  • dwynn73dwynn73 Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Town Car that can only be shifted out of park with the car off. The car acts as if I'm not hitting the brakes therefore locking in park. I am not even getting brake lights when I hit the pedal. Is this some sort of switch that has gone bad? Where is it located? :(
  • mkovalskmkovalsk Posts: 114
    Yes, there is a switch on the brake pedal that activates the brake lights and releases the shifter. Look up towards the top of the brake pedal arm. The switch is there, connected to an electrical connector with two wires.
  • limolimo Posts: 20
    The factory door pad code is located in three places.

    1. The trunk hinge, usuallay on the right side

    2. Under the front bumper, on the right side

    3. On the computer inside the drivers door. Remove the trim panel to find it. There are two screws buried in the
    upholstery that must be removed to get the trim panel off.

    You can not put your own code on the pad without first entering the factory code, so if you want to do this, ya gotta go for the code on the inside of the drivers door :)
  • limolimo Posts: 20
    This procedure works with with 95 and up model years, I assume it will also work with earlier versions of the same body style.

    1. Put your foot on the brake, and LEAVE IT THERE!

    2. Remove the key from the ignition

    3. Re-insert the key into the ignition

    4. Turn the key only to the FIRST stop

    5. Pull back on the shift lever, and move it to the
    neutral position

    6. Turn the key the rest of the way to "start" and start the engine

    7. Put selector in drive

    8. Now, take your foot off the brake

    Remember, you will not have stop lights because the stop light switch has gone to lunch. The stop light switch is required to be working in order to complete the circuit and unlock the gear selector when you start the engine, so best replace it ASAP.
  • dwynn73dwynn73 Posts: 3
    This is exactly how I already put it in gear. But thanks for the advice. Do you know where stop light switch is located?
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