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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • I just stopped in my local Ford dealer the other day to see when they would have the part...they said pull it in and about an hour later it was fixed....just lucky i guess.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    How many miles do you have? I have had 2 TC's and I have experienced nothing close to what you have had. Both (2000 and 2002) had to have climate control and mass air flow sensor replaced and the same mileage. Maybe the correct the problems after 99.
  • trentftrentf Posts: 1
    i have a 1985 ltc and when i push the gas pedal, sometimes it bogs up and sometimes even shuts off. just today at the gas station, when i tried to turn it back on (after it shut off) it wouldn't start for about 2 minutes. this may be very vague, but any suggestions would be appreciated. it mostly shuts of while idleing but sometimes when i take a turn too. ususally runs fine in park. the engine is not shot. it only has 75000 miles on it.
  • This is my first post I hope i can get some help. I need to remove the center overhead console on my 2004 town car, the garage door button was pushed to hard and has fallin inside. I tried everything and cant seem to get it off. Maybe i'm being a little to gentle,IDK. Any information is helpfull. Thanks.
  • I have a 95 TC Sig. My parents bought new and took very good care of it, all maintenance and repairs done on time. Still looks new. approx. 175,000. When starting car for the day whether it is warmed up or not, when pulling out into rd from drive it always bogs down and hesitates sometimes even shuts off. Also some mornings it will just die going down drive. When it shuts off if you turn off switch and turn back on it will immediately crank back up with NO hesitation. Until TC warms up probably 10 miles or so it will jerk and hesitate like it is not getting any gas. When at a light sometimes it will shut off and same as before it will start right back up. Another thing sometimes if you are going down hwy it will just lose power and you will feel the car start to slow even if you push gas it will not respond but has not died yet. Eventually it does. Engine light is on and keeps throwing a EGR code all EGR parts have been replaced. New computer put in. Fuel filters, distributor, a number of things have been done. 4 different Ford dealer have had the car no one can find anything wrong. My parents drove it to CA last summer and had awful experience with it worst than ever. And they have went everywhere in this car. Wanted to get 200,00 out of it. My husband is a mechanic so we thought we would like it. Gave them 700 and started replacing things. So far nothing has worked, BUT GET THIS very reliable car. Every other weekend we drive about 600-800 miles and it always get us there. Sometimes it will not even miss at all. All the jerking is getting annoying and eventually I know it will shut down. Has anyone got any ideas. Something is being overlooked.

    Thank you Beth
  • I hate the car. Heater core (which had been replaced ONCE at a dealership) gave it up again (Feb) while hubby was driving. Hubby had suffered a heart attack in Sept and then, when the fumes spewed out in January, it cause severe pulmonary edema which triggered congestive heart failure (ICU, 3 days hospitalization). problem: I absolutely hate the car. I can still smell that noxious odor every time I get into it. Is there ANYthing that can be done to flush this out of the car/system?

    This has truly become a point of contention in our marriage. Silly? Maybe, but I cannot get past how close I came to losing him over this car.

    Thanks in advance. :mad:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    What code does the OBD give? Guessing your engine is compatible with OBD II.

    Is the Mass Air Sensor original?
  • I have a 95 Lincoln Town Car. A couple of weeks ago, my car started running terrible. A friend suggested I change my fuel filter. I got the filter and before I put it on, the check engine light came on. Ok, I change the filter and hook up the diagnostic machine and it gives me the error "misfire on cylinder 5". I reset the codes so that it will take away the check engine light. The car runs great for about 1 or 2 days until the check engine light comes on again. I hook it back up to the diagnostic machine and it gives me the same code "engine misfire on cylinder 5". My cousin suggest I replace the coil for number 5 which is on the drivers side. After replacing the coil, the car still runs the same. I think I will try the spark plug or plug wire next, but I have heard that there is a special way to take the spark plugs out of this kind of engine. Is there a certain procedure to change the plugs (get the engine hot first) and do you think that this could be the problem or is there another suggestion???
  • Actually the TC is a '94 exec. with a 4.6L V-8. M A S has been replaced,EGR tube cleaned,all new sensors for EGR system. Have checked all fuel system components.
    Have thought that maybe catalytic converters are stopping up. Any ideas?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Has the EGR Pressure feedback sensor been replaced yet? $110 item.
  • lvwilsonlvwilson Posts: 1
    Hi, never been here before, but I am hoping someone can answer a question about our Lincoln. We had a clunking noise in the rear of the car and couldn't figure out what it was. Took it to the shop and found out it was the rear sway bar that was all rusted out and actually breaking off. The mechanic told us that he could just cut them out because they were just a luxury item, but we didn't really need them.
    I was a little surprised, I always thought that they don't put parts in a car for no reason.
    So, I would appreciate if someone knows anything about these in the lincoln, i would love to know if it is true the car can roll on any corner
    and if they should have removed and replaced them. I can't even drive the car now thinking how unsafe it might be.
    If anyone out there has any info on this it would be greatly appreciated..
    Thank you so much.
  • 98 lincoln towncar - while driving, approx once every minute or so it sounds and feels as if I have run over a set of groves in the road like the ones used at the side of the interstate to warn of running off the road. My tires are new, and thought maybe the pump that handles leveling the car or filling the shocks (?) might have been affected. Do you have any idea what my issue is?
  • Yes EGR Pressure feedback sensor has been changed. My husband said it sounded like maybe it could be the injectors. IS there a way to test these? Because we have been eliminating thing by just purchasing new ones. That is getting very expensive. Plus the car just rolled over 190000 miles. It is truly a great car. I just dont see how it can still run with all the jerking during driving. Sometimes you can hit the overdrive button and it will quit for a minute but then start right back up again. The car has been taking on many long trips for this to be a major thing. Everyone is overlooking something. And now my other vehicle is down. I need some brain storming going on. I say a lady the other day at the grocery she also had a lincoln it was 96 mine is a 94 she had 280000 miles on her and has had it for about 4 years . Why cant mine run that way. It is hard to explain exactly what the vehicle is doing. But it sure does run like it is goin straight to junk yard. :sick:
  • If you think it is truly the air bag on the rear, then just have them removed and put springs on it. They will have to be done professional because of welding. YOu can tell if you get under rear and listen for a leak. Maybe start the car first and listen for the pump to fill the bags and then take a look. Thats how we found our leaks. Air bags were like 300 apiece. so we opted for spring. Found a local mechanic said he has done several. He charged 150 total. Then you never have to worry about a leak in them again. IF that is what you problem is, hope it helped a little.
  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22
    Check the coils, especially the ones on the back of the engine, #4 & #8. There is a tendency to get water into the hole around the spark plugs. Look for signs of rust on the plug and coil rubber. This causes misfire which upsets the computer and makes the car jerk and stutter and can even blow out the transmission. Sometimes the temperature will drop off too when this happens, strange as that sounds! Turning the key off and on, pushing the overdrive button etc. will clear the computer for a few minutes and make the symptoms go away for a bit. Let me know. The dealer won't admit that there is a problem with the Ford V8 but he'll know what to do to fix it as this is a common problem.
  • fukaafukaa Posts: 3
    is it easy to change a smog pump? and is there a website that is free that shows how to do it?it's a 1990 lincoln town car5.0 engine
  • fukaafukaa Posts: 3
    1990 lincoln towncar, gas peddle vibrates sometimes while accelerating ,is this a costly problem,how can it be fixed?
  • fukaafukaa Posts: 3
    i know my smog pump is going bad ,if i chaneg it will it improve the performance of the vehicle ,it hesitates at times and has a vibration in the gas peddle?
  • harryw32harryw32 Posts: 4
    I need instructions for reprograming a remote from another car.
  • kpenakpena Posts: 3
    hello everybody names Ken,
    Wondering if anyone can help? I changed out my spark plugs not too long ago and found that they were pretty much soaked with oil. I got a couple of manuals like hayes but I can't find any answers.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    Would that be a head gasket leaking? There was a time Ford had a problem with them prematurely cracked and stated leaking, if I remember correctly.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Without knowing how many miles are on the car, how many miles are on the plugs, or anything else - try a plug with a hotter heat range. If you have a "Cold" plug, switch to a "Warm" or "Hot" plug. I suspect you have high miles on the car and the piston rings are worn so much, the oil is getting up past them into the combustion area and "fouling" the plugs. A hotter plug will help to burn that oil off.
  • kpenakpena Posts: 3
    It's a 94 TC with just over 107,000 miles. brand new plugs were just installed.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    I'm not sure your new plugs are "Oil fouled". Discern for sure what the liquid is. If not oil, then perhaps a head gasket is in order.

    Do you ever see Steam coming out the exhaust? Especially after the engine is warmed up?
  • kpenakpena Posts: 3
    No....I haven't seen any steam or any other form of smoke come out of the exhaust. I did have some hesitation one day while accelerating at a light.

    But i'm gonna have it checked out for the head gasket. Your guys is help is very much appreciated.
  • gdt001gdt001 Posts: 10
    I had this same problem on my 97 town car. The first time I took it to the dealer they went into the computer using the buttons on the dash. This worked for about a week and then it was the same thing, the A/C was working (cold pipes under the hood) but nothing but hot air from the vents. This time they changed an actuator for one of the doors and it has been fine ever since. If I remember correctly, they had to remove quite a lot from the instrument panel to get to that actuator, not a job I would like to get involved in.
  • I've got a 93 TC Signature Series that with careful driving, not exceeding the speed limit, no jack rabbit starts, very light foot on the pedal and coasting downhill in the right hand lane always so you lead footers can pass, gets about 26+ mpg combined city/hwy. On the hwy at 55mph it's higher of course. Not bragging. Just curious.

    BTW Google hypermiling. It shows you how to get better gas mileage on any vehicle. It's a non commercial site mainly talks about hybrids getting 70+
    mpg using these techniques and ones you can only use on hybrids. It's been talked about on the major news networks. (Chicago to New York run on onlyone tank of gas in a Prius recently with gas left over.)

    Have a great day everyone! :)
  • gdt001gdt001 Posts: 10
    On my 97 TC I get around 22 MPG on the highway. That is cruising around 73MPH with the air on. In the city it is probably only around 18.
  • kpena, after the engine is cool, take a good flashlight and remove the rad cap. Start the engine and look at the fluid level in the rad. What you will notice if a head gasket is blown, is bubbles coming to the surface when looking at the top of the coolant fluid. You need to let it run for at least 5 minutes with the cap off so that is can get close to normal operating temperature. The thermostat must be open to see the bubbles coming out, so hotter is better when looking for the bubbles.
    Another test is to go to the corner gas station and have them put the pressure tester on the place where the cap fits. This will confirm if there is a pressure leak anywhere in the coolant system.
    Rocker cover gaskets are cheap compared to fixing other problems. In regards to the tips of the plugs, if there was no oil on the spark tip, then it is not an internal engine problem. Many times the body of the plug is covered with oil or fluid but not the tip. That is good news. If that is your case, your are lucky. Just do the RC gaskets and also grab hold of the wires when the engine is running. If you can feel an excessive amount of juice going through the wires, then replace them. With the ocst of gasoline these days, also replace the air filter even when it is not too dark, just gray. It's your money and most air filters in the summer won't last 4,000 miles before they become restrictive. It depends on the dust and dirt on the roads where you drive. The discount auto parts stores have good deals on name brand air filters, so when they are on sale, buyt 2 of them.
    Stop using normal oil and go with a heavier grade of full synthetic. Any brand will do except castrol which is not a true synthetic. castrol is made from hydrocarbon crude oil while the others, Penzoil, Quaker State, Mobil One and Valvoline full synthetics are made froma chemical. and therefore work much better under very high temps of bvery cold temps. To help chemically clean the inside of any engine, add 1 or 2 quarts of full 100% synthetic oil and run it for about 2,500 to 3,500 miles, then dump it out and run all synthetic engine oil. Always use a heaveir grade in the summer of if you have more than 60 k on the engine. Try a 10w30 or if you have very high miles or pull a trailer, run 15w40 or 15w50 full synthietic. It is cheaper to use a full synthetic than normal crude based oil becasue it is so slippery, it saves on fuel making it less expensive in the long run. For the summer add 2 pounds to the tires for better handling and better mileage.
  • adjusteradjuster Posts: 22
    I have a 2000 TC with over 95,000 miles. I drive carefully and easily. I have a full trunk of tools so I'm caring a lot of weight. I get 19+ MPG city driving and 29 - 30 MPG on the freeway at 55. At 70 the highway mileage drops down 3-4 MPG so I try to stay below 70 even when it is allowed. I get better mileage than does my wife in her Taurus. But then I'm a lot more careful in how I drive.
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