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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Re: Transmission - Visual inspection and sniff test of the oil on the dipstick would be at least my task. If the car "shudders" while accelerating mildly, change it.

    Re: Rear axle - Visual inspection and sniff test of the oil on your little finger after you remove it from the filler hole.

    Determine who serviced the car in the past and inquire of them what was done.

    If unknown,& at that mileage, I would change all fluids including the engine coolant.
    What price - peace of mind? While on the hoist, should tires be rotated as well?
  • tcsamueltcsamuel Posts: 1
    Hello, I had the same thing happen to my 2004 TC just this week - did you get any help on this? Do you have a sun roof?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    In retrieving small objects, I've had success in using the shop vacuum to suck them out of the area. You may have to pack a rag around the nozzle for a tight seal, but the object will be out of there & you can retrieve it from the cannister.
  • tazataza Posts: 2
    I have 2005 town car with 53000 miles, having problem with catlic convertor. can it be replaced under manufacturer warranty thru a dealer?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    If you purchased the Extended Service Plan,the converter may be covered. Based on the age and mileage of the car, more than likely, it is not covered. Why do you believe that the converter is not functioning properly?
  • tazataza Posts: 2
    I have no extended Service Plan. A weired noise coming from underneath the car, have checked exhausts and they are secured and with the voice, like GRRRRRRRR, I suspect that something might be broken in catlic converter.
  • gseterrygseterry Posts: 13
    Went down the filler neck with a 30" Bore-A-Scope and cant find anything blocking the way. Filler neck pipe is straight and no kinks or damage. Gas tank vent tube to top of filler pipe, just behind the safety trap door, also clear - open - no kinks or damage.
    Note for the car to take gas at the above mentioned TRICKLE, you have to put the gas nozzle in from the 2 to 3 o'clock position. Installed it normally (6 o'clock) and you can't even get a couple seconds of TRICKLE flow in there.
    Desperate for answers......
  • rwdfanrwdfan Posts: 15
    Just want to confirm. I'm taking care of my "new to me" 2003 LTC and changing fluids and filters at this time. It came to my attention that the Town Cars are not equipped with cabin air filter. Do you concur with this information ?

    Also, engine air filter, any experience with K&N for the Town Car ? Is it worth it ? Thanks. :confuse:
  • gseterrygseterry Posts: 13
    My 99 Cartier LTC is supposed to have one (though I have not attempted to change it) so I would believe yours would too.
    K&N air filter? Yes I have one now and in concert with the complete change over to Bosch Platinum Plus 4 plugs, after I had all my COP's checked and #5 and #7 replaced, I can now brag with pride that my through Motown, mostly E/way, ride to work (69 miles round trip) 5 days a week, nets me an average of 26.4 mpg.
    A note here on a few posts I have seen regarding Auto Trans shifting problems, MY actual culprit was these 2 COP coils.
    Without any other change except these 2 defective coils my erractic trans shifting issue/complaint went away.
    My best MPG average for the same trip, on the same roads, at about the same time every day had me at 24.4 MPG.
    Again the very economical upgrade to the Bosch plugs, 2 new COP coils and the K&N filter has me very satisfied. I have had this completed now for over 6 months.
    NOTE to all COP equipped Ford owners: After checking all my coils out and finding-replacing the bad 2, I used Brake Clean to clean off the remaining 6 (by the "D" date code, originals from '99) coils. When they were all dry I sprayed/soaked the tops (where the epoxy seal is poured on the finished coil) of all 8 heavily with Permatex High-Tack, RED, Spray A Gasket, sealer. I allowed this to set-up almost dry for an hour then reinstalled them. The issue here is that over time and over a couple thousand cold to hot to cold cycles this epoxy in the factory coils will shrink and seperate from the outer housing and allow moisture in to ruin the coil.
    This Permatex Sealant will remain fairly soft, skinned over, and flow when hot into any seperation to help keep them sealed for longer life.
  • axiomowneraxiomowner Posts: 76
    I was confused about this myself. I have an 05 LTC with 63K miles. I changed the tranny fluid at about 35K miles at the dealer. (They never mentioned it was not needed at 30K). I just returned from a quick lube place and they stated tranny is 100K miles and rear axle is 150K.

    I have seen literature, sent to me by lincoln, that says 100K for tranny. I 've also seen where, and edmunds, say 30K for tranny. I'm not sure what it really is.

    For me, I checked the tranny fluid today and it is pink. I'm not changing it. I'm going to wait on the rear axle too.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    If the fluids are semi synthetic, I understand the 100k for tranny and 150 for axle.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Catalytic converters are covered by the federal emissions warranty which I believe is 8 years or 80,000 miles. A Lincoln Mercury dealer should cover it for free. Good luck.
  • dude24dude24 Posts: 4
    There is a flap inside the right engine compartment that drains water from the wiper blade area. It is right up against the firewall(right side). Lift it up and you will see all kinds of debree. Clean out and it will solve you problem.
  • dude24dude24 Posts: 4
    Have a 98 LTC with 89,000 miles. Time to replace plugs and coil boot. Any advice on how to. Dealer wants $450 for job. Used to turn wrenches but that was on old school cars.
  • chief007chief007 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Lincoln Town Car and it is eating a lot of oil. There are no visible links, and no oil coming out of the exhaust. Any suggestion as to what may be causing this. I am putting about 1 qt of oil in every two weeks.
  • lestermanlesterman Posts: 4
    My 99 LTC after starting won't let the AC compressor come on for 5 minutes. The HVAC system itself works fine except the air won't be cool until the compressor is energized. Any idea on how I can check this out. I'm a retired HVAC technician.and work on my own cars even doing an off frame restoration on a 40 Ford coupe.
  • gseterrygseterry Posts: 13
    Your system may have borderline just enough freon to run the system. When it is at low pressure (car is Cold - hasn't been running) there isn't enough pressure to trip this switch. After the underhood temp rises from it running it may warm the freon just enough to trip the switch and it works?
    Had similar problem on Wifes '95 New Yorker in '05.
    Hadn't had a recharge since new.
    Threw in ONE can (and it barely took a full one) and it worked fine till we sold it in '08.
    Un-plug the Low Pressure cut out switch and Jumper the 2 wire connection right after you start the car and turn on the AC. If it works immediately there's your sign of just a hair too low of freon charge.
    NOTE: To all FoMoCo RWD full size car owners, especially anywhere in the Northern Salt Belt. There is a wrapper/cover on your AC Dryer (vertical cannister about 3" - 4" in diameter X 8" - 10" tall) that has a tendancy to HOLD moisture and inturn cause the housing to rust through.
    REMOVE this cover/wrapper ASAP. If it has begun to rust or corrode, apply some Rustoleum Gloss Black to it.
    Good Luck........
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    wrapper/cover on your AC Dryer

    Thank you for the tip. We don't live in the Salt Belt, but we do have a little moisture in the Winter = WA. :)
  • landdlrlanddlr Posts: 1
    starts again only to shut down a few seconds later. This happened on Monday (2 days go) just before I turned it off. When I got back to my car, I needed a boost. It started right away but the A/C would cut out and "reset" blow a few seconds....then repeat the process. I bought a new battery and all seemed to be solved. Unfortunately today it started to do the same again after a couple of days of use. Has any one else had this happen and have a solution. Many thanks in advance.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    When the new battery was installed, the Negative cable was disconnected & that may have caused an unknown module to "reset" itself until "the unknown cause" tripped it again. The challenge is to determine the cause. Let us know the outcome.
  • retired8retired8 Posts: 15
    I have a 1995 TC that is experiencing the same missing/bucking problems that are scattered throughout this forum. I ran through all the applicable entries today and decided it could be the plugs/coils, or possibly the transmission going in and out of OD. I tried the easy fix and drove around with the OD off. It was hard to determine if that was the problem. It is not a constant problem. I can drive for 20-30 minutes one day and not experience it, and the next day it happens immediately. It seems to happen mostly at very slight acceleration at low speeds, 15 to 30 MPH. Seems like it does it more on hotter days, 90 + (Shreveport, LA). I do have the check engine light on constantly. Local garage changed all plugs and wires less than 10, 000 miles ago, and it turned the light off and ran great for about a month and started again. I have 71,500 miles on the car. Love the car, but don't want to hurt it. If the check engine light is on, along with the other symptoms, does that give you any more ideas what to check? I'm looking at the mass air flow gizmo tomorrow. Please pass any ideas along. Thanks-- Charlie
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Our 94 TC & 95 TB both had a shudder under slight acceleration and changing the transmission fluid incl the turbine solved the problem.

    We R & R'd the Mass Airflow sensor on the TC when it caused the engine to lose power while pulling the boat/trailer. That fixed it. As the CEL light is on, I'd bet it is something related to the emmission control system and if not the Mass Airflow sensor, perhaps the EGR sensor.

    Let us know the outcome.
  • retired8retired8 Posts: 15
    Please see my post #885. I had the transmission checked out by a very reliable shop. They say the transmission is not the problem, that it is plugs and wires. So, I say to myself,"I'll try changing the ones the blog says to change first". Well, I can't even get the first plug wire off. It stretches out about 3 inches to where I'm afraid I'll break the wire!! Is there a secret to removing the wire? Shall I just keep pulling? Thanks-- Charlie
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    4.6 Town Cars? Ours is a 94 & runs great.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Keep pulling while simultaneously twisting the wire back and forth. The plug is deep in the cylinder head.
  • hello all, noticed this was the most active thread so i decided to hop in and maybe get a tad bit quicker answer. im experiencing nothing but hot air being blown by my lincoln, even with the temp set to 60 etc... its a 95 LTC, 130 K miles. i happened across a few posts about it possibly being the blend door actuator, can anyone provide the ford part number for that piece, and if they feel that is the correct diagnosis? Hate to be a pest, but if also the part numbers for front right and rear right window motors, and the fan clutch part number, my old girl is gettin' a makeover! . im sure i'll be in this forum a ton, so any help in advance would be greatly appreciated, yea its only about 100 today here in houston, who needs A/C right!
  • tgd1tgd1 Posts: 5
    my 1991 tc (125k miles) runs great and has had a lot of work done over the past 2 years - new tranny, new alternator, new suspension, brake lines. It was rejected in NJ for "visible smoke". Any ideas on what would cause this? I'd like to have a clue before speaking with a mechanic. Thanks
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    This engine needs new valve stem seals. Valve stem seal replacement usually eliminates the smoke and reduces oil consumption.
  • About 3 weeks ago the panel lights on the dash went out and the ABS light came on, plus dashes replaced where the numbers would appear for the mileage. I was close to home, so I shut it off. We looked under the hood and noticed the power brake fluid was low (it was just serviced), but not leaking, so we filled it the next day. It was running fine ever since. This evening the exact same thing happened, except not only did the ABS light came on but a second light came on "O/D Off"; so, we pulled off the road and turned off the car, opened the hood and the master cylinder was okay; we turned the car over and it would not start, it took 3 tries and the panel lights still had the same issue. We drove the car home and parked it. I'm calling the shop on Monday, but any ideas what I could be facing with possible repairs - e.g. computer chip, electrical, fuses? Thank you.
  • Just a clarification on my previous posting... last evening when the exact same thing happened with the panel lights going out while driving and it lit up "O/D Off" accompanied with the ABS Light on, the Speedometer read "0" which is odd since we were driving. When attempting to turn the car over after parking and shutting it off, it didn't even make a sound as if it had a dead battery. After 3 tries of starting the car, it then turned over and all of the panel lights came back on. We drove it home and there it sits because I won't let my wife drive it until I call the service dealer. The car has 95k orig miles. Any ideas on what it could be? Thank you.
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