Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • cmorris1cmorris1 Member Posts: 7
    I am hoping that possibly a Ford/Lincoln Engineer maybe reading this post. I can not take these Southeast Tx. summers any longer with my TC's Lack of A/C. I LOVE MY CAR. Except for the A/C. I know there have been numerous complaints from the year model 98 till today.

    My ? is:

    Is it possible to have a fix performed on my car maybe like a larger Blower Motor or something to remedy this?
  • linenwlinenw Member Posts: 1
    I think I'm having the same problem. I did what was described and removed the cylinder. I did not find the small switch called a " starter interrupt switch". You you give me a clue of where exactly to look? Where can I get a replacement switch and how hard is it to install?
    Thank you in advance for all you help
  • pvtc7pvtc7 Member Posts: 1
    On two occasions my car quit running. The first time, a "check engine" light came on and the engine stopped running. I tried an immediate restart; it failed. After a few minutes it started but only ran 1/4 mile. The outside temperature was 97 degrees. It was towed to a dealer. The retrived DTC = lean oxy sensor and egr valve blocked. The technician said he could find no reason for it to stop running and did no repairs. He didn't charge either!

    The next day at 107 degrees it stopped again. A different dealer could find no stored codes but suspected the fuel pump. He suggested running it in cooler weather. We drove it home, stopping after a couple of hours of driving. On two different occasions we got a "check engine" light but the vehicle continued to run.

    The car was getting 26 MPG so it was running fine.

    My research points to a TFI but I don't think my engine has it. The codes on the fan cowling are: EEC-IV, EFI, & DIS

    Any help really, really, appreciated.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I'm not an engineer, sorry, but I have researched this very problem for years, 7 of them to be exact, ever since 1998, when some HVAC engineer lost the battle for a large enough squirrel cage to blow sufficient air into the cabin of these large cars in the southern states, as I share your opinion. I can't believe Ford hasn't fixed the problem. They are aware of it, I've been told by some insiders, but they really don't get a lot of complaints about it. Part of the problem is that the registers on the Town Car are so large, that it complicates the problem by making it seem that the airflow is even worse than it actually is, because you can't feel a strong stream of air coming out of an air duct like you want to on high speed. Add to that, the rear air vents, which the Grand Marquis and Crown Vic don't have, and you do have a problem. It's underblown. Eventually, it cools down, but you'll sweat buckets until you've driven the car a half hour, and if it would blow hard, the airflow would add a lot of comfort in the interim while the cabin cools off. The pre-98 Town Car had smaller registers so you felt more air coming out faster, and I contend, had a stronger fan as well.

    I've been living in Vegas and North Florida for the past 2 years and I always rent Town Cars in Florida, which is how I notice they haven't fixed it yet. It's the one reason I don't own one.
  • diamonds1diamonds1 Member Posts: 7
    that was the trick!!thank you very much
  • jagman1jagman1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem which started a day after I had a new alternater & new battery installed. So far on the web I have read about a heater valve. Did you determine the problem?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Gotta love Ford engineers - glad it helped.
  • dabear1dabear1 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. Can you tell me if you found out the problem. I have a 1996 Lincoln Towncar. Thanks
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    18 June 2005
    Robert Lane

    Dearborn, Michigan. Ford has agreed to settle lawsuits filed agaist it due to cracking intake manifolds on certain 1996-2001 4.6L engines. The engines are found in: Crown Victoria, Grand Marquis, Lincoln Town Car, Mustang, Cougar and Thunderbird models. The settlement could impact over 2 million vehicles and cost Ford up to $375 million USD.

    The plastic intake manifolds Ford used were plastic and were nortorious for cracking, thus causing coolant leaks.

    The terms of the settle include:

    • Ford will reimburse customers with receipts for the intake repair.
    • Ford will pay $735.00 to those without receipts, provided that they can verify with a dealership that a repair was made.
    • Ford will extend the warranty coverage for customers whose intakes have not failed.

    Ford lost an appeal earlier in the year to have the case dismissed.

    Updates at
  • chuckgrahamchuckgraham Member Posts: 1
    Can only ready message center at night. Only MPH can be read during daylight. How do I remove and replace it?

    Chuck Graham
  • tophattophat Member Posts: 7
    I have the same problem on my 95 TC. I have been told that the wiper motor will have to be replaced. I have found a way to park them by hand. It is a minor anoisance, But it works. What I do is: With the key on I stand where I can reach both the wipers and the switch. I then turn on the wipers to the first notch, let them come up the first time, when they park, before the next up stroke turn off the switch and hold the arm to stop them, then push them down to park.
    This works for me.
  • tophattophat Member Posts: 7
    The next time it fails to start, try holding the shift lever up into park. If this works then the switch needs adjusting. This would only be the cause if the starter does not engage. The fuel pump cannot keep the starter from engageing.
    good luck!
  • copascopas Member Posts: 1
    Is there a better way to connect the small wire at the starter? It has a 'male' blade on the starter and a push on connector on the wire. They are prone to corrode and give you a 'no start' at an akward time. You would not believe the problems this caused over the years. Lincoln bought me several starters, several solenoids and one wiring harness. It even fooled the computer diagnostics at the dealers. After the car was out of warranty I learned what was causing the problem and tied a nylon string to the connector and ran it up to an access point under the hood I can't tell you how many times this saved me a toe. Just a wiggle and it would start. Now I am going to sell the car and I would like a real fix before I offer it. I'm from the old copper bolt school of engineering. Thanks all.
  • pilgrim1pilgrim1 Member Posts: 2
  • pilgrim1pilgrim1 Member Posts: 2
    What sounds like the turn signal relay comes on ramdomly by its self and clicks rapidly without the turning the lights on. It will often stay on long enough for the courtesy warning bell to come on. It will stop when the break is applied.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    I purchased my beloved 1990 Town Car (affectionally known as "Mr. LTC!") new. It now has 147,000 relativally trouble free miles. For the first time it needs an high cost repair. My mechanic who has done all the repairs on it and I trust, says I should repaired it repair although the repair is almost what it's worth. I very comfortable and trust this car very much. Now I'm considering doing a almost full restoration especially since I cannot afford a new Lincoln must less anything else, that is NOT FWD. Is this a bad idea?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Because I'm the original owner of a '94 TC with 117,000 miles, I understand your feelings about your TC. Not knowing what repairs are needed, one can only guess it's either the engine, transmission, or rear axle. If the engine, my recomendation would be to invest in the 4.6L OHC that came out in '91. I had your 302 powerplant in a previous TC so having the experience with both, the 4.6L OHC engine is preferred. Much preferred.

    If the AOD transmission needs repair, repair it.
    If the rear axle needs repair, repair it. (mine cost $1100, but it is worth it)
    If all three need repair - bury it or part it out and watch e bay for a low miler TC.
  • towncarttowncart Member Posts: 1

    I have a Lincoln Town Car 2000 Cartier model and live in the UK. The car has gold plated lettering in individual letters on the rear trunk lid. Someone has pulled off one of the 'L' letters. Does anyone know where I can get replacement letters and get them shipped to the UK? Thanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Well, I wouldn't restore it for a daily driver, I'd sell it and look for a lower mileage 95-97 replacement. But that's just me......
  • scootertrash2scootertrash2 Member Posts: 71
    Yes, that sounds like a bad idea.
    Every individual part of that car is expensive, old and has 147,000 miles on it.
    It's 15 years old and worn out.
    Move on.
  • doris1doris1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Lincoln TC and I have been having a problem that I believe is in the transmission. I just had the transmission fluid and filter changed and the fuel filter but to no avail. When I am driving it and I have the windows down I can hear what sounds like you have the car in nuetral but giving it gas and then it jerks and kicks back in to driving. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and 1 transmission shop but it hasn't happened when they put it on their daignostic equipment or when they have driven it. Has anyone had this problem and could it be something other than the transmission ? I love this car !!!
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    If this "happening" occurs at 39 to 42 mph, perhaps the transmission is "hunting".

    "Hunting" happens when it wants to go into a higher gear, but fails to do so because the speed of the car drops.

    If the problem occurs above 50 mph, I don't know what to say.

    (Euphonium 94 TC)
  • doris1doris1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey it does do this at 39-42 but also at higher speeds like around 60-65. If this is "hunting" should I take it out and "shoot " it or what can I do? Thanks alot
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I'd say you may have a transmission going bad, because it clearly is hunting, but not finding, and the clutches may be slipping. If you've serviced it, drive it and it will either get better, worse, or stay the same for a while. But eventually, you'll need a rebuild, and that's not so terrible. The car is probably worth it.
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    I guess I should have mentioned what it needed. The A/C had to be completly replaced as well as the drive shaft. I did fix it, this may sound silly but I just couldn't part with it! It has been so dependable I am afraid to rock the boat, so to speak. In my case I don't mind the 302 but the 4.6L is something to consider if the 302 blows up. Do you (or anyone) know if the seat covers are still available new? Also will the wheels from the 2005 Crown Vic LX fit my TC?
    I have the cloth seat which I don't see to often in other TC's I have seen. FYI I inherited my dad's 1970 Continental Mark III which has 125,000 miles. I don't recall my dad having any major repairs on it either. Unfortunatally with gasoline over 2 bucks a gallons and it uses Super Unleaded it sits in he garage least for now.
  • scrizzscrizz Member Posts: 2
    So i have a 1988 Lincoln Town car and was driving it today through boston when the gas pedal started to stick a little bit. I had to pull over and turn the car off and fidget with the gas pedal and the line hooked up to it to make it free, it seemed to help but the pedal felt alot lighter than normal and was not giving much resistance, then the car began to do some funny things. When i accelerated, the car would fail to properly switch gears (obviously, its an automatic). The engine would simply rev and no gear change would take place unless i pressed the gas very lightly and gradually. Even when i accelerate slowly the car feels a little off when its changing gears, just not as fluid as i am used to, it seems a little hesitant and jerky almost. It was working fine up until today, I've had it since october of 2003 and have had no tranny/engine problems so far. It has 146,000 miles on it. I checked the transmission fluid levels and they were normal. Any ideas?
  • scrizzscrizz Member Posts: 2
    I would really like to fix this problem soon so nothing bad happens or leads to more problems seeing as I am a broke college student and losing this car would be a harsh blow. So if you guys or girls need more info to address this problem let me know. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    You say that you fiddled with the lines that connect to the gas pedal but you didn't say that you opened the hood. Some linkage probably fell apart. That doesn't mean you don't also have a tranny problem, but Aamco would not be my first call.
  • okiedudeokiedude Member Posts: 1
    I recently had to have the Intake Manifold on my '96 Grand Marquis replaced while I was on a trip :cry: . When I described the problem the SM told me about the plastic part on the Intake Manifold that regularly fails - he did NOT say anything about any kind of reibusement program ;) . I ended up paying $1,100- :surprise: to have the thing replaced. It was just a few weeks ago and I have the receipt from the F-L/M dealership.

    How do I go about getting reimbursed? :confuse: Thanks for any help or direction you can provide. :)

  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    In person, present your paid receipts to your local Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Service Manager for payment and request his aid in being reimbursed by Ford.

    I would also make it known to the factory service rep that the SM who was in charge of the shop doing the repair FAILED TO MENTION any thing about the Ford reimbursement plan.

    The cost of repair is covered by Ford, but the system requires you to be pro active.
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    Hi - a 1997 TC Signature series, a cream-puff, EXCEPT - the alarm goes off frequently throughout the evening at really bad times, like 12:48am or 1:15am, I cringe because it wakes the neighbors. The dealer had the car for a week after I purchased it and the alarm went off. The alarm cannot be disconnected; it's built in to the electronic system. Have followed manual instructions, my mechanic has tried several fixes to no success. I use the keyless system but also have a remote that opens/closes doors. When the alarm goes off, I open doors with remote, then re-set the keyless entry numbers on the door. This is a mystery. Has anyone else experienced this problem with their t/c? We are at our wits end! Thanks April :cry:
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    But I've NEVER heard of this happening, and I've owned a lot of Fords.....
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks....we have had this problem for two years. Our mechanic and us have tried different ways to close the doors, etc. just when we think we've solved it; the alarm goes off during the middle of the night. When it happens we lock the doors using the remote, then get dressed, go outside, move the car a little, lock the doors using the key and after 3 or 4 times of doing this procedure, it stops!! We never know when or for how long this alarm is going to sing. We wondered if it could be caused by vibration of other cars driving by, but none are driving by!! I saw in a post of a different car - the owner thought it was caused by a cb radio??
    We have had this checked by the place we purchased, a place that installs remote/start-up by remotes, our mechanic and no success!! It happens more at night but has happened during the day -- like when we are in church!!! It's really frustrating. The car is well maintained - we would like to keep it even though it's a 97. Please help. Thanks. April :cry:
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    Is there an adjustment or setting for how sensitive the alarm is? I had a friend with a Crown Vic that had this problem. A heavy wind would set it off! Once he made the adjustment (whatever it was) the problem ceased,
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    We have had a prob with alarm for a few years. It goes off during the middle of the night - we have to spend about 45 minutes locking/unlocking the doors to quiet the alarm. We have brought it back to place of purchase, our mechanic, after everything, when we think it's fixed -- the alarm goes off. We wondered if it could be vibration setting it off, but no vehicles driving by it at 3am. I read in a post on this site that it could be someone using a CB Radio??? Our Lincoln Town Car 1997 manual reads that it will not go off if someone is sitting in the drivers seat or if something heavy is in the drivers seat. This is the latest thing we are trying to hopefully not have to run out to the car at 2, 3 or 4am. I am going to log the times, to see if there is a pattern. Reading other posts, other brands having similiar alarm problems on this site. The alarm goes off more at night - but sometimes at daytime, like when we are at church and have to go running out!!! April
  • b52fxrb52fxr Member Posts: 2
    Both of my T/Cs have a problem with the suspension airing up, but they will not deflate. Replaced the 93s leveling switch on the rear axle housing with one from a salvage yard, but did not fix the problem. Have done nothing with the 95 until I have a little better understanding of what the problem most commonly is with the Towncar. Thanks for your help..........and most of all your Forum!
  • shoemakershoemaker Member Posts: 9
    Our problem is: After our 1995 lincoln town car is driven (well warmed-up) and turned off for a short period of time, i.e. a stop at a road side rest area, it won't start. It turns over, catches and then dies. After a wait of 10, 20, 30 minutes, we can get it started again. It seems to happen more during the warmer months. Doesn't happen all the time, just an intermittent problem. Acts like a vapor lock, but is that possible? Any ideas, suggestions, would be most appreciated. Thanks.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    A vapor lock, while not impossible, is improbable in any fuel injected car, as the fuel is under enough pressure to prevent vaporized lines. My bet would be that your fuel pump is going out. They are notorious for failing intermittantly. Change it out, I'll bet your problem goes away.
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    RE: Factory Installed AntiTheft Alarm System Problem In our - 2003 Lincoln Town Car.

    I just read a post made by a Toyota Sienna owner whose description of his problem with an anti theft alarm system was described on this website, exactly the same experience that we are having. The alarm is silent for weeks, then it goes off at different times, different places.

    We were told by the dealer 4 years ago, because the anti theft alarm was factory installed and integrated with the electronic system in the car, it could not be disarmed/turned off, cut out! We took it to a Remote Starter place and they suggested manually locking the doors, installing the key, turning the key all the way to the right. Worked for a while, but then didn't. Our manual read if the driver is seated in the car or something heavy was in the drivers seat the alarm would not go off - not true. We placed two heavy bags weighing about 100 pounds - the alarm went off. It happens a lot in front of our house at 1am or 3am.

    Yesterday morning, while having breakfast in a restaurant it happened continuously disturbing the other diners! We were sort glad that we were with friends so they could see what we were experiencing. No other activity around the car!

    Yesterday afternoon, the car was parked on a flat surface parking lot in front of the motel we and friends were staying at. The alarm went off again continuously - no other activity around the car -- we sat with the lincoln manual which describes how to lock and unlock but does not troubleshoot the antitheft device when it goes berserk! During the daytime it drove everyone crazy at the motel. Finally, after locking the door's manually and turning the key to the right -- doing that process 4 times -- the alarm stopped. NOW, WE WERE WORRIED,
    what if this thing goes off during the night when everyone WAS SLEEPING???
    We prayed and we slept in our clothes, so that we could "run out" and handle this berserk alarm - thank goodness it didn't go off! That would have been a serious problem for us with the other guests at the hotel!
    This morning, other guests were packing their cars, opening their car doors to the right and left of our car, a lot of activity around the car -- the alarm was sleeping!

    One guy suggested we contact the purchase place and find out the model number of the factory installed anti theft system that came with the car -- where is it located in the car - and a schematic showing the anti theft system. I am going to
    call the manufacturer tomorrow and anyone and everyone to try to find out how to permanently disarm this anti theft device. We do not know the name of the anti theft system, where it's located in the car, etc. Tomorrow I am making many phone calls to learn whatever info I can about this beserk anti theft system.

    Does anyone know a fix for this? . We are at the point of giving up this car that we love because of the stress associated with the anti theft device. :cry: Thank You
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The problem isn't the alarm, it's a failing 'door ajar' switch, setting the alarm off intermittantly. If tolerances are close, a change in temperature could do it. I would have all 4-door switches checked and oiled.
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    Thank you so much!!! We will have it checked immediately!! April :)
  • chuck1959chuck1959 Member Posts: 654
    I have a 1990 Lincoln TC. It has the 5.0 engine. Isn't it the same engine they used in the Mustangs. The reason I ask is that will the same modifications you make on the Mustangs hold true for my TC? I am sure other 1990 TC owners can relate I would like more power. Would supercharging be an answer what about the costs involved on a S/C?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Understand your frustration at needing more power. Out '82 with your engine was always developing my patience. Yes, the Mustang has the same 302 engine, but the EEC is different depending on the year of the Stang. My suggestion is:

    Apply any monies you would spend on your TC and move up to a '93 or later TC.
    The OHC engine will be a big improvement, but IMO the TC still needs a 300 hp engine. :)
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    My husband is showing your advice to his mechanic to check the switches out.
    Prior to receiving your advice I called the Customer Service Number at LincMerc
    listed in our manual. She took info down to put it their records but could not help me because there was never a recall on the factory built alarm. I asked where the alarm was located, how can I turn it off, etc. she could not help me; suggested a Dealer. I called 2 LM dealer's:
    Response 1 - His mechanics would not know how to fix a 97.
    Response 2 - The alarm can not be disabled because it is factory installed. I could bring the car there, leave it, if the alarm goes off, they could see what was happening. If it doesn't go off - they can't help us.
    Your advice was the only logical advice we received. This does not give me a comforting feeling about the LM Customer Care Service or the Dealers.
    Our mechanic is going to check out the door switches.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    LM customer service is not known for being particularly helpful with mechanical problems. That's what your service manager is for. I wish you luck with this.
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks! I should have been clearer - when I spoke to the LM Dealer I actually spoke to the Service Manager at two Dealers. One said his mechanics would not know how to fix a 97 car and the other suggested I leave the car with them to see if the alarm would go off. Murphy's law, it won't go off. We did that when it first happened - left it at Auto Lines for 1 week! It never went off.
    We had a computer diagnostic test done today at Auto Zone about the Engine Light being on frequently, the technician said the EGR Valve has excessive flow.
    Our mechanic is going to check out the valve, first to see if it has to be cleaned out before ordering a replacement. We are determined to fix the engine light problem and the door switches. We have an appointment for our busy mechanic to work these but have to wait a few weeks.
  • scootertrash2scootertrash2 Member Posts: 71
    Why can't you just spray a bunch of WD-40 on and into the switches yourself?
  • aprilw3067aprilw3067 Member Posts: 18
    If I am understanding this correctly, the door panels have to be taken off to spray the switches....(I really know very little about the technical stuff but am trying to learn to be a part of the solution). I will check the manual to see if the door switches are discussed. :confuse:
  • equityhunterequityhunter Member Posts: 5
    My 93 TC is leaking coolant from the heater hose connection underneath the intake manifold midway between the front and back of the engine where a crimped connection connects a 6" piece of heater hose (which connects to a nipple near the front of the engine) to a metal tube running to the back of the engine. I thought it would be possible to disconnect the hose from the front of the engine and remove some nuts at the rear of the engine to remove the whole assembly. However, there is very little room to work. The dealer says the intake manifold has to be removed. So, they are saying it will cost $600, maybe more, to replace this piece 50 cent piece of rubber hose. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking about getting a 98 TC but won't if this design is the same. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • equityhunterequityhunter Member Posts: 5
    I had a problem with my 93 last year where it would just crank. The mechanic I brought it to replaced the electronic fuel pump but I got stuck a day later. The culprit-- Bad ground. Check your negative ground cable connector at the battery. replace connector before anything else.
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