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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • 0rnery0rnery Posts: 23
    What a coincidence:

    Engine Surge When Braking--I have a 2006 Lincoln Towncar...

    The answer also includes mention of disconnecting the booster for troubleshooting. He's right, but it's VERY hard to brake without the booster, so be forewarned.
  • No, I don't use cruise control. I don't even know if it works on this car because I didn't try it.
  • 0rnery0rnery Posts: 23
    Somebody driving a 2006 Town Car, with the same problem as you, paid $15.00 for that answer, so I thought it might be the solution.

    The same fellow who got paid for that, also offered the suggestion to disable the brake booster. That could help eliminate it as the culprit, but it's very hard to brake without the booster.
  • On a similar website I found a poster saying that he had simply disconnected the power to the actuator and used a screwdriver to move the door from one side to the other. He had to do this once in the spring, to deliver cool air, and once in the fall, to deliver hot air. That sounds like a workable solution for me here in central Ohio, with my otherwise wonderful 1996 Town Car. How difficult is it to locate and disconnect the power to this unit?

    The diagnostic test I just did confirmed the actuator is bad. It's already gone to "all cold air" after giving me the clicking and tapping as it tried to close/open these past few days. Otherwise it's time to dig up about $800 or so and get her to the dealership. My fear is that will all the bolts and screws that are involved I'll end up with a good actuator and multiple rattles & squeaks that have nothing to do with the original problem. Thanks for any input!
  • kargkarg Posts: 20
    My '03 Cartier L (long wheel base) recently started leaking rear axle grease from the passenger side rear wheel. The inside of the wheel was cover and it was leaking so much - it came out onto the paint. I knew something was amiss. Long story short - my mechanic had to replace both rear axles because they were literally wearing out. The passenger side had a groove created from where the bearings spun around the axle - that was 1/8" deep. the driver's side was not quite as deep, but definitely there...

    I read there was a recall for "Fleet" versions of the Town Car L editions - but not for the ones sold in dealerships. Kinda silly - considering they are essentially built the same. I filed a complaint from Ford.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    How many miles on the car when the axle needed repair?
  • 99towncarexec99towncarexec Posts: 160
    edited March 2010
    Hi. My wipers on my 91 Town Car started acting up the other day.Now they stop in the up position.I have a new wiper motor that I want to install if it's not to hard.Anybody know where the wiper motor is located on the car?? Under the plastic stuff at the bottom of the windshield maybe? What tools will I need for the job??Thanks.
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    Hello, i have a 99 town car that just shut off try to restart it and it just turn over but wouldn't start so i had a new fuel pump put on because it was not getting fuel,Now with the new pump on its getting fuel but it still won't start it just keeps turning over but won't start. Any suggestions. :sick:
  • TRY A NEW CRANK SENSOR or a new regulator,if they still use those on cars!lol.My first thought was fuel pump but you fixed that.So crank sensor might be it.
  • gilly09gilly09 Posts: 1
    hi guys hope you can help i just bought a second hand lincoln town car 1987 model the engine cut out when i start to turn the steering wheel any advice would be most greatfull thanks gilly09
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    where is the crank sensor located and how can you tell if its bad, THANKS :sick:
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    THANKS TO YOU, I am on there now
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    edited April 2010
    i finally got the car fixed today and it was what you told me. It was the lower rear control arm bushing. thank you for your help. i forgot the car was a lincoln town car signature with 109,600 miles on it.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    edited April 2010
    the car seems to jerk and buck when i give it the gas. it feels like the engine is missing but at an idle you cant even tell it is running.the car has 106,000 miles on it. i just got it a while back and it ran great. any ideast it is a 1993 LTC sig.
  • 02 sensor.bad gas.old plugs/wires.throttle position sensor.Could be a bunch of stuff or any one.
  • I have a 94 and it jerked for 4 years. Been to dealers from east to west. One even had it for 3 weeks. Any after alot of money and time plus frustration, my husband checked the alternator, I know it sounds weird, but it was sending the wrong volts and causing power surges. Have someone check the alternator on a computer or something. We got a new alternator around november, and since then no jerking or dieing. Runs smooth. It now has 230,000 miles. Good lucky
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    This problem developed a week or two ago. It began with a slight delay in cranking when I turned the ignition switch to start the engine. It would crank and start. Didn't think much about it. On subsequent starts over a couple days the delay got longer until eventually it wouldn't do anything when I tried to start the engine. No crank, no perceptible click or clicking. Just basically nothing.

    The next day, I put a new positive cable connector on the 2-3 yr old battery b/c the old one was corroded. After doing that, it started up fine and I had no problems starting until yesterday. Let me explain, I don't drive much. Usually short trips, one or two stops about 6 miles total but yesterday I made several stops for a longer trip. On the next to the last stop it barely cranked but started then stupid me made another stop and then it wouldn't do anything when I tried to restart it.

    After waiting about 20 min. and trying several times with no crank, it started but not with a regular sounding crank. I got home. Tried to restart and nothing. Fast forward to this morning.

    Started right up like nothing wrong. Drove 3 miles to store, after 20 min. started like nothing wrong. Drove 3 miles home. Turned off ignition. Immediately tried to restart. Started but didn't sound 100%. Shut down and tried to restart. Started to crank for a second then stopped cranking. Tried to restart - Nothing.

    It seems when the engine is cold - there's no problem starting. I bought the car in 2004 with 93000 mi and it now has 160. I haven't replaced any electrical except for the battery. Sorry for the length but, this way you know what I know. Anyone have any ideas?
  • Maybe the fuel pump is going.Maybe the CRANK SENSOR is going.Maybe the VOLTAGE REGULATOR is going (if it has one!lol)
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    Could you read post #944 and see if this is what was happening to you? How did you resolve your issue? Thanks
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    edited April 2010
    Could you read post #944 and see if this is what was happening to you? Did your fix finally solve the problem once and for all? You said you had a lot of diagnotic work done. Was it a dealer or independent mechanic that finally figured it out? How many places did you go to? Thanks
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    edited April 2010
    It said it's not CRANKING. (starter is not engaging) Fuel pump works fine. Replaced 1 yr. ago. (sorry I originally said only electrical replaced was battery).
    Maybe you think its funny lol. I can think of alot more ways to have
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    Does anyone know? I've ruled out the battery and battery cable. Which leaves alot.
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    edited April 2010
    It sounds like you did have everything changed except the wiring. I think I found a good troubleshooting article for starter problems. It's specific for Porsche but it should allow one not to have to replace everything to solve the problem.
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    I found an excellent site for do it yourselfers and those who want a good understanding of how their car works. Ques and ans. how to, pictures diagrams.
    Here's an article referring to starter problems. I'm sure I'll find the problem. Once I know the problem I won't get ripped off if I have to have someone do the labor.
    Thanks everyone. Honk if I see you.
  • wicketwicket Posts: 18
    fixed the jerky transmission. took the car to a transmission guy i know and he said it was a misfire in the engine and it was probably the plug wires and spark plugs so i stoped an the way home and got plug wires and plugs and it runs very good now.
  • 93sig93sig Posts: 13
    Here's a few tips to quickly diagnose this problem. If nothing happens when you turn the ignition switch, have your inside lights on. Don't come on or are weak. Or Do they dim way down when trying to crank? Yes. Check Battery.
    No dim? Starter not getting current. Check battery connections. Then check connection at the starter solenoid. This is the small wire connection. Take off and clean and replace. This was my problem. This requires getting under the vehicle which has to elevated. Be careful. Get it on ramps or better a rack. Don't get under with just the jack. If you can test for voltage at this connection and it is present when trying to start and it doesn't crank after cleaning the connection with current present replace starter/solenoid.

    If there is no current present at the solenoid when trying to crank you have backtrack the wiring and check ignition switch, neutral safety switch, relay (never did find it- maybe inside) ugh!
  • msledge50msledge50 Posts: 11
    what all do i have to take loose to remove the radio in a 99 town car. :confuse:
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