Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Your post stated "including the vents". Did your check include the windshield defroster vents? There may be a foreign object in the windshield defroster vents. If this is an A/C system related wind noise, it can be isolated. Get a piece of cardboard that is long enough to fit across the windshield defroster vents. Also get some Saran wrap to stick in the floor heat exhaust ports. Put the cardboard over the windshield defroster vents. Close all the face louver vents. Turn the ignition switch on to the point where the instrument panel lights-up. Press the A/C button to start the blower. Start with the blower setting in the low speed position. Individually, open each face louver vent. Move the piece of cardboard, slightly, to uncover the windshield defroster vents. Principally, you will have to cycle the system opening, closing, and blocking air flow until you hear the undesirable noise.
  • sreilly77sreilly77 Member Posts: 2
    this noise happens whether the climate control is on or not. it only happens when the car goes above 25 mph and progressivly gets louder as I speed up. it is so annoying especially since i drive the highway almost everyday.
  • davecometdavecomet Member Posts: 3
    I have been struggling with the same problem for several months on a Ford Windstar. (We've been disabling the anti-theft system everytime we locked the doors by unlocking and relocking one door with the key after every time we locked all doors with the inside button or remote.)

    Finally figured it out today. (Will have to wait many days to be sure of course.)

    The factory installed anti-theft system senses an open engine compartment hood as well as open doors. Don't know if it's the same on the Lincoln, but on the Windstar, the engine compartment hood/door switch is mounted on a somewhat flexible bracket extending from the back of the engine compartment. The keyword here is "flexible". The bracket was bent down enough so that when the hood was closed, the switch was only partially depressed, with only a slim margin between indicating open or closed. Wind, temperature and who knows what else could easily move it across the tipping point between open and closed.

    The fix: Bend the engine compartment hood/door switch back up.

    I was fixated on the passenger door switches until my wife reminded me that the problem started when we had the oil changed (which I previously dismissed as unrelated). I expect the tech leaned on the switch/bracket while checking the fluids. The bracket bends easily and doesn't have to move very far to cause problems. Didn't really look out of place even.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Did you get the problems fixed? Did the fix include replacement of the turn signal module?
  • royrroyr Member Posts: 2
    Finally got the car fixed. Had to take it 70 miles away to a bigger dealer. The "new" spark plugs wires that had been installed were breaking down.

    Was the dealer supposed to repair the cracked intake at his expense, or was I supposed to foot the bill? I've heard stories both ways.

    Thanks for your suggestions.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    To check the status of the class action suit, go to:
  • kevinekevine Member Posts: 10
    After experiencing motor stalling out continuously after cold starting I spoke with a mechanic and he thinks the entire throttle needs a good cleaning with Gumout or such. Seems the throttle components/linkage are sticking/freezing either due to dirt, dust, or moisture, especially in winter.
    good luck
  • kevinekevine Member Posts: 10
    check to see if window is simply stuck to rubber surrounding. I had similar problem and found out it was tree sap that caused window to stick to rubber water guard.
  • xetxunaxetxuna Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1986 Lincoln TC, with roughly 160k miles, and have had it for 8k miles, since about December a year ago.. The first thing to my knowledge about it that went wrong was the break lines being rusted out.. then got them replaced, then about 5 months ago I got a new CD player installed, had some rough times through getting that up and working, then about... a month and a half ago I tried to start my car.. and the battery was dead... so i charged it up and drove it..., then the next day again it was dead.. so I began unplugging the negative battery cable from the post any time i left the car... then i picked up a friend one day and when he opened the passenger door when the car was running and music was playing, the music stopped and cd player shut off until he closed the door then it turned on and started back up... so i figured AWSOME he just figured it out... so i re-wired those speaker wires... and nope still something draining it.. and not a slow drain like i had an interior light on, a STRONG drain,... the battery would be dead from a full charge to nothing in like 2-3 hours... i found the fuse that if pulled the drain would stop, and have had it pulled ever since.. but on that once fuse are, my dome lights, door locks, dash clock, and CD player, so i need to figure out what could be causing this problem and attempt to fix it.. i'm guessing it is a short somewhere but where to look i donnot know.. Plz help... Thanx in advance...
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    First, let me congratulate you on owning and operating a square car. I do too, and quite proudly.

    Second, your non-electrical and unrelated problem of rusty brake lines is common for these square cars. My TC is two years newer with 105,000 less miles and the brake lines had to be done over three years ago. No big deal.

    Third, based on how its acting and since the one fuse you reference handles the interior lights and the radio, the speakers probably have nothing to do with it, as you've already discovered. Its the power, and is related to your replacement of the stereo. I assume the replacement stereo (which, by the way, is also a common wear-out item for these square cars) is one component and has its own internal amp? Does your car have a factory amp mounted in the trunk (probably on the right side next to the spare)? Have you bypassed it or are you feeding already amplified signal in to the factory amp?
  • bdagobdago Member Posts: 2
    hi, i own a 1995 lincoln. I'm trying to hook up a RF module cd changer, yet i need to find myself a key on hot, and constant hot in the trunk. Can i splice these into the wires leading into the factory amp, and if so, which colors would those be. And if not, is there anyplace else to find these two wirings????
  • scoonie1scoonie1 Member Posts: 3
    Having problem with ingnition coils on 1999 lincoln town car. 99,000K on car just recently #7 & #6 coils have gone bad, last night experienced the same problem with car. Should I replace all coils, or just when they go?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Replace all coil on wire plug wires. 99,000 is about time and replace the spark plugs while you are in there if they are also original. Afterwards, dependability returns and the gas mileage goes up along with the performance. :)
  • scoonie1scoonie1 Member Posts: 3
    Will TAKE your advise, car is going into the shop tomorrow.

  • scoonie1scoonie1 Member Posts: 3
    Have a 2001 town car 88,000, now it seems that between 39 to 42 the transmission is hunting, does anyone know what it is?
  • beernutbeernut Member Posts: 329
    Yes, I know what it is. It is a Ford. That's what Fords do when they get to more senior mileage (sorry, but 88k is senior for some Fords, depending on how hard they were driven) and can't decide between 3rd and 4th.

    IMO, it is a combination of a)the trans doing it more - may need a "tune up", b)doing it more "loudly" - trans service could quiet it down, and c)the mountings not concealing it as well anymore because they are aging a little - may need new rubber.

    Also IMO, have a trans guy look at it with an eye on safety and if it checks out, drive on!
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    It is nothing to be worried about, safety or otherwise. It is normal for the transmission to shift from 4th (OD) down to 3rd when accelerating from 39 to 45 mph. You may notice the "hunting" when climbing a slight grade. To prevent the engine from "laboring" in OD, the transmission will downshift to 3rd. Locking the transmission out of OD when driving around town will prevent the hunting process. The OD is designed for constant highway driving of speeds over 45 mph. Having had three different Town Cars with this transmission, I wouldn't be too concerned. You lock it out of OD by pressing the button on the end of the directional lever. The transmission is programed to use all four gears after the engine has been turned off so each time you take the car out, around town, press the button to lock it out of OD. :)
  • cpowellcpowell Member Posts: 1
    99 Towncar, 4.6 engine. 92K miles. At 69,000 miles (tuned up at 66,000)at 75 mph blew out plug # 3. Since then it has happened 3 times. Now dealer wants to charge me $3900. to redo the head on the one side. Fantastic car, otherwise no issues. Love this car, might have to invest in used engine. Cannot trust it not to happen on long trips. The last AAA tow driver said he had heard of this happening on L/M vehicles after the first tune up. Help.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    I have never heard of this happening and raise an eyebrow at a $3900 charge to redo the head on one side. An independent shop for another opinion is in order.

    If it comes to pass you need to buy a used engine, try to obtain the 300 hp, 3 valve/cylinder 4.6 used in the recent Mustang.

    Please keep this forum appraised of what you do. The 99 Town Car is the same style as the new 06 so it might be worth replacing the engine, but a Second Opinion first.
  • cokemancookingcokemancooking Member Posts: 1
    just bought a 1996 tc cartier replaced the blendoor motor and still not enought heat inside the cab/ codes on readout is #24 #25 where can someody get all the codes thanks
  • gqprmangqprman Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 LTC I noted that the rear lights do not turn on when the Headlight switch is turn on, either in Auto /manual mode. I checked the fuse are fine, bulds I replace all 6. The 3rd light works fine. The turn signal work fine also. Where is the Problem?
  • gqprmangqprman Member Posts: 3
    1999 LTC when turning on the air suspension I get a loud noise from compressor. Is this normal???
  • gqprmangqprman Member Posts: 3
    when pressing the ext. temp is shows -40 and never changes. Do I need to reset unit, unplug and reset.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Normal would sound like a little outboard motor under the hood which is the compressor compressing.

    As to your other two electrical problems - try disconnecting both terminals on the battery. While they are off, clean the clamps and battery posts with a 99 cent battery post cleaner. Reconnect the battery & see what circut breakers reset. Good Luck. (Wouldn't it be great if we could just hit Ctrl,Alt,& Delete?) :)
  • mclaren880mclaren880 Member Posts: 1
    after my car has been sitting for some time (maybe 12-24) hours, it usually will stall right after i start it up. If i push the accelerator for about 3-5 seconds, it will stay running, and then has absolutely no problems after that. even if i turn it off for a few hours, then start it back up, it starts fine. sometimes if i put it into gear too soon(maybe within 10-15 seconds after i hit the gas to get it to keep running) it will stall too. so basically if i give it some gas right as i'm starting it for maybe 5 seconds, then wait 30 seconds to put it into gear, the car has no problems. i got the car back in august, and it did it back then too. I'm from Michigan so in august it was pretty hot, and now it's very cold, and the weather seems to have no effect one way or the other on it. the problem also does not seem to have worsened at all. I had the alternator, battery, and starter all checked, and they were all fine, with the exception that the starter was drawing more current than it should. the car is in immaculate condition, it was my grandfathers and he had every 3,000 mile oil change, and every reccomended tune-up the entire time he had it. I've asked around, and i haven't found anyone else who's had this same problem. does anyone have any ideas? i'm a college student who's trying to avoid the extra $300 for a mechanic to fix it. thanks a lot, any help would be awesome
  • thom164thom164 Member Posts: 2
    This car is awesome. I feel that it will blow Cadillac
    out of the water. The 4.4 Litre V-8 with 315 horses will
    give it the power it needs. Should be a favorite with
    those who live in the snowbelt,seeing that it is,"All
    Wheel Drive". With its futuristic styling,all wheel drive
    and 315 horses this car will literally be unstoppable.
    Can hardly wait until it comes out.
  • cheesypoofcheesypoof Member Posts: 2
    carpet is wet in rear passenger floor only. Carpet sides are not wet--only the bottom. does not seem to be coming from the door itself since the carpet at the door threshold is dry. Front passenger floor carpet is absolutely dry. Carpet is wet about halfway under the passenger seat starting toward the back floorboard. Trunk is dry also. Any help?
  • junbug2junbug2 Member Posts: 2
    I just wrecked my 05 Lincoln. I was in parking garage and went to pull into parking place and car accelerated while my foot was on brake. Hit cement wall. So far nearly $5,500 damage and still tallying. Told me frame had small damage ??. They said I must have hit gas instead of brake. Never had a wreck or anything similar. I have noticed it has a fast acceleration. I hit on passenger side angle of fender and headlight. Air bags didn't go off. Hit so hard couldn't open the drivers side.
  • junbug2junbug2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Lincoln Continental. Had to have front and back suspension replaced. First the front and than the back. Lincoln does the work. Car had a little over 50,000 miles.
  • thom164thom164 Member Posts: 2
    I had same problem with my 2000 Lincoln Town Car at around
    90,000 miles. Had it fixed under extended warranty
  • tupence30tupence30 Member Posts: 1
    I have the opportunity to purchase a 2003 LTC Executive edition with 21k miles on it. It has been well taken care of and I need input.

    I read discussions to truly get a feel of how the car is going to hold up for the long haul. How do the LTCs hold up. I am a person that has never owned an American vehicle only Japanese and German and would like to buy a true luxury vehicle that will not breakdown and cost a fortune over the long haul. HELP!!!!!
  • shoemakershoemaker Member Posts: 9
    Haven't had anymore problem with T/C not starting, but the excessive 'chiming' is back. Is there any way to turn it off? Would turning it off create other problems? other than things like letting me know I forgot to turn the lights off, etc?
  • seabeemanseabeeman Member Posts: 1
    HELP!!! When the ambient temp is in mid 30's the engine will not start. It spins over fine. after the temp rises, the engine starts and runs fine. the fuel filter has been changed, but did not help the problem. the car has 144K miles and is well maintained. any advice for corrective repair will be appreciated.
  • personabcpersonabc Member Posts: 2
    I also have a 1999 towncar that has wet carpet as you describe in the right rear passenger floor, more so after it rains--I also have wet carpet in the right front passenger floor, mostly in the right rear area of the carpet. I have searched everywhere to locate where the water might be coming from and cannot identify the source that leads to the wet areas. I have cleaned out the door rubber gaskets and put silicone patches in all the gasket gaps. I also used silicone to fill the gap in the outside top of the windshield which used to leak inside. Help!!!
  • garsarnogarsarno Member Posts: 72
    My 99 Town Car had same problem - your local auto glass replacement dealer can recaulk the windshield for minimal cost versus having the Lincoln dealer contact the same auto glass dealer and adding 100% to the cost. No more leaks. Mine leaked in rain on the passenger front carpet.
  • garsarnogarsarno Member Posts: 72
    My '99 Town car has devloped an intermittent problem with the overdrive transmission - the blinking warning signal indicates the Overdrive is not engaged. Pushing the overdrive button on the end of the transmission selector stalk does not relieve. Anyone experience this and what was the remedy / cost. Has 67,000 on a mint Signature Touring Sedan - Ceramic White / White leather interior.
    Thanks for replies.
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Member Posts: 316
    Does anybody know if Lincoln is considering a move to swap out the current iron block 2V 4.6 V8 and four speed automatic for an aluminum block 3V 4.6 V8 and five speed automatic?

    This would likely improve fuel economy, weight distribution and drivability.

    Any thoughts?
  • mkovalskmkovalsk Member Posts: 114
    The blinking warning light does not mean that the overdrive is not engaged. It means there is something wrong with the transmission. You need to take it to someone that can read that code that is stored and diagnose what's wrong with the transmission.
  • lew673lew673 Member Posts: 1
    Had this happen to me. There is a part under the crowling and the gasket dries up. It cost approx $150 for a body shop to repair. Also this happened while vehicle was sitting in driveway my homehowners ins paid for the repair minus deduction.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    If a H.P. paid for an auto H2O leak then an auto policy should pay for a roof leak.

    Perhaps you are insured via Encompass which combines the home and autos under one policy. But, the homeowner section of coverage in no way would cover your auto water problem.
  • garsarnogarsarno Member Posts: 72
    Thanks for the reply. Will be taking to the dealer next week. Has had the torque converter replaced at approx 30,000 mile level, car now has 67,000 miles.
  • cheesypoofcheesypoof Member Posts: 2
    we do not have windsheild leak. If there should be a leak in the windshield, the front carpet would surely be wet. Does anyone know if there is a drain ? plug located under the frame of the body in the right rear passenger floor area.
  • ajs26ajs26 Member Posts: 8
    Not sure of the problem. I thought it was the brakes, and had the rear brakes fixed and replaced. Tires Plus said the front were in very good condition "like new". So the problem is a grinding sound, it is not constant, it's on and off. It occurs when I turn the steering wheel (only when i'm driving, not when i'm in nuetral, i've already had work with that problem) So i'm driving and turn the wheel and hear an ugly grinding-ish sound under the car. I just put more power steering fluid in so it shouldn't be that.
    When the car is off and i push down on the hood, near the front drivers tire, I hear the same grinding, so could it be a tire problem? Maybe I desperatly need an alignment? I know i desperatly need guidance on this problem, and would appreciate any feedback.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    Have the ball joints checked. They may be excessively worn.
  • ajs26ajs26 Member Posts: 8
    I believe I had the tie rods and ball joints replaced a little over a year ago. Back then, the car made a very NASTY gridning sound when in nuetral or park while turning the steering wheel. Thankfully, the sound now isn't nearly as nasty, just a little weird. Sounds like i'm slightly bottoming out constantly moreso than anything else.
  • lfd441lfd441 Member Posts: 1
    I just read a problem someone was having with their Wipers staying in the up position when you shut them off.
    I am having the same problem.
    Does anyone know how to correct the problem?
    You can email me at: [email protected]

  • ajs26ajs26 Member Posts: 8
    Not sure, but to respond, I had the same problem this past weekend. It was only like a one time thing, and I shut my car off and back on and they went back to normal. It was frightning. I hope it dosen't happen again.
  • scootertrashscootertrash Member Posts: 698
    That does sound frightening. You will be in my prayers.
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 177
    This is a fairly common problem for 1990 through 1997 Town Cars. There is a cam mechanism on the windshield wiper motor that wears and allows the the wiper blades mechanism to slip when the motor reverses to the parked position. I recommend simply replacing the wiper motor; or if you a have rotary tool and some patience, you can take the cam mechanism apart and try to rework the cam so that it catches when the motor reverses.
  • garsarnogarsarno Member Posts: 72
    Diagnosed as a slight leak in the transmission, drips going on the transmission wiring harness, causing the intermittent overdrive off light to come on and some days off. New harness on order / cost w/labor is approx $500.
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