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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • chad09ochad09o Posts: 4
    we had a 1993 toyota pick up truck , we took it to a brake expert he redid all the brack lines and he had a new worked that put brake fluid in a soda bottel and put it in . the didthe same this after 1 -2 miles the water in the soda make it expand and lock up like that. brack systems are all the same think.. try bleeding it and get all the old stuff out and then cycle new fluuid thought it. and yes those air rides mess over . on my 85 i but spring and shcok on it saves time and money and rides like new.
  • chad09ochad09o Posts: 4
    i no how to fix the problem ..roll down the windows and drive fast. to much work to fix it .
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The car is needing just that. I will have it bled as soon as the money hits my hand. The air ride will be held off. It always pumps back up for the ride. The car will roll again.
  • crusty1crusty1 Posts: 1
    I just encountered this same problem with my 2000 Town Car
    I'm curious if you got the problem figured out and what it was. I tried buying a turn signal flasher ( hoped that was the problem)but Auto zone listing comes up unavailable.
  • dwynn73dwynn73 Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Town Car that can only be shifted out of park with the car off. The car acts as if I'm not hitting the brakes therefore locking in park. I am not even getting brake lights when I hit the pedal. Is this some sort of switch that has gone bad? Where is it located? :(
  • mkovalskmkovalsk Posts: 114
    Yes, there is a switch on the brake pedal that activates the brake lights and releases the shifter. Look up towards the top of the brake pedal arm. The switch is there, connected to an electrical connector with two wires.
  • limolimo Posts: 20
    The factory door pad code is located in three places.

    1. The trunk hinge, usuallay on the right side

    2. Under the front bumper, on the right side

    3. On the computer inside the drivers door. Remove the trim panel to find it. There are two screws buried in the
    upholstery that must be removed to get the trim panel off.

    You can not put your own code on the pad without first entering the factory code, so if you want to do this, ya gotta go for the code on the inside of the drivers door :)
  • limolimo Posts: 20
    This procedure works with with 95 and up model years, I assume it will also work with earlier versions of the same body style.

    1. Put your foot on the brake, and LEAVE IT THERE!

    2. Remove the key from the ignition

    3. Re-insert the key into the ignition

    4. Turn the key only to the FIRST stop

    5. Pull back on the shift lever, and move it to the
    neutral position

    6. Turn the key the rest of the way to "start" and start the engine

    7. Put selector in drive

    8. Now, take your foot off the brake

    Remember, you will not have stop lights because the stop light switch has gone to lunch. The stop light switch is required to be working in order to complete the circuit and unlock the gear selector when you start the engine, so best replace it ASAP.
  • dwynn73dwynn73 Posts: 3
    This is exactly how I already put it in gear. But thanks for the advice. Do you know where stop light switch is located?
  • dwynn73dwynn73 Posts: 3
    Thanks
  • my 93 TC trunk wont pull down, haven't had a battery prob like the prev person. does anyone know where to get a pull down motor? i checked Advance Auto and Auto Zone. the drivers side window wont go down, when you hit the switch, you can hear it click but the motor doesn't run. Is this likely the motor, they are readily available. Any help with these probs will be appreciated. :sick:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Can you close it manually?
  • how do you close it manually, it doesnt go closed the whole way, if i can do that, i could live with it.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    I don't remember exactly which connections are to be tapped, but no harm in trying to use an insulated wire to make a connection from the deck lid to the electrical motor mounted on the rear side of the trunk opening. Remove a unit being held with four screws, the connections choice on the side of the trunk will be exposed.The "U" shaped hook can be "motored" down using the wire on the correct connections. I don't remember which connections, but after lowering the hook, the deck lid will shut closer to the fender line.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    Your local salvage yard may have the parts that you need. Also, trunk pulldown motors and window regulators for Lincoln Town Cars are frequently listed on E-Bay.
  • lynk2000lynk2000 Posts: 1
    When I accelerate the car stalls. This worries me and I took it to the dealership just around six months ago and they changed the plugs and the spark plugs and the distributer and cables. It started all over again and I want to get it corrected once and for all. Any insight on
    what it could be and around how much it would cost?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Suggest you check out the Mass Air Flow Sensor. After replacing ours, the car runs better with better MPG and we're back to Regular rather than Mid Grade gasoline. :)
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    on the 95 town car the code is on the inside of the glove box. Check thier first.For the key pad
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    Check all the ash trays for coins or other small metal pices. If the lighters are not in place and you have put coins or other metal in the ash tray it will short and blow the fuse.
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    Ford finally agreed to replace the intake manifolds that cracked. Check autoweek.com.They had the infomation you need to have the manifold replaced. Good luck
  • sevenceassevenceas Posts: 3
    My rear air suspension leaks downs when I shut the car off. It does not come back on when I start the car again. After I start the car, I have to open the trunk and manually turn the switch off and then on again. The suspension will be fine until I turn the car off, again. Does anyone know what it might be? I want to sell the car, but would like to get it fixed so it will sell easier.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    There is an adjustment that can be made to the setting that switches on the compressor. To see if your setting needs adjustment, ask three hefty friends to sit in the back seat and then start the car. I bet it would then start the compressor.
  • sevenceassevenceas Posts: 3
    Where is it located and how do I adjust the setting? Thanks for your help.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Don't know as the Service Manager, Ford dealership only advised me they made the adjustment on mine. Sometimes we go down the road a little high in the rear, but it must have increased the mileage because we are always going "down hill".

    Curious: Did your compressor go "ON" with the people in the back seat?
  • sevenceassevenceas Posts: 3
    I haven't tried that yet. I don't have 3 hefty friends. Ha Ha. Thanks for the info.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    A height sensor is the adjustable device in the suspension system. It is located under the car on the frame near the differential. Caution: Before you mess with any of the suspension components on that Town Car make sure you turn off the switch in the trunk and place jack stands under the car. A sudden loss of air in the system will make the car drop and a heavy load misread will cause the air pump to blow the system. Your height sensor may be defective and you should also check the control module and the relay.
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The 95 town car My wife and I love has got A problem with the strike-peg that the driver door hits. The little plastic bushing was gone and the door was hard to close properly. The replacement unit comes with all the parts. The problem is getting the new part in exact position. Any ideas? Thanks
  • limojohnlimojohn Posts: 4
    I have a 94 Lincoln towncar exec. and I have a transmission shutter at 45 to 55 mph, it feels like going over rumble strips when it shifts to overdrive and I need some input on this problem, is it a problem? What can I do to fix it? :confuse:
  • limojohnlimojohn Posts: 4
    I have a 94 Lincoln towncar exec. and I have a transmission shutter at 45 to 55 mph, it feels like going over rumble strips when it shifts to overdrive and I need some input on this problem, is it a problem? What can I do to fix it? :confuse:
  • limojohnlimojohn Posts: 4
    ok I am new at this. DUH!! :blush:
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    The recent trouble on my 95 was similar. I took it to A local transmission shop. They diagnosed it at the counter. The fix was replacement of A control unit in the transmission. The labor cost more than the part and is less than $300 total. Good Luck
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    Papaa,
    Take a look at the position of the strike-peg on the driver side passenger door. Match your new peg in the same position at the driver's door location and tighten it. This should fix the problem so that the door closes properly and you won't get the door open signal on the instrument panel.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Change tranmission fluid including the turbine.That solved it for me. :)
  • brucelincbrucelinc Posts: 815
    Yes! This torque converter shudder was common on that vintage RWD Ford products. Probably lots of hardware thrown at the problem when a fluid change (including the fluid in the torque converter) was all that was needed. I had a 94 T'bird with that issue, and I know of at least 3 others family members whose 94-95's had the shudders. The rumble-strip description is very accurate. All the cars I am aware of were fixed with complete fluid changes and the problem never returned. My T'bird, which I gave to a nephew in 2000 had 170,000 miles before he sold it - never another transmission problem and I know he was pretty rough on on it!

    The original fluid in those transmissions lacked sufficient friction modifiers. I know of several transmission shops that simply added Lubegard to the fluid to solve the problem.
  • limojohnlimojohn Posts: 4
    thanks I'll try that first
  • red333red333 Posts: 4
    I have had 4 New batteries since December 2005 installed by the dealer in my 1990 Lincoln. Sunday, I had another fail to start. The dealer has no answers. The dealer has done all repairs on this car. Any ideas on who I should take the car to, to trace down the problem.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 174
    I recommend taking the car to a shop that specializes in automotive electrical repair service or another Ford dealer.
  • red333red333 Posts: 4
    Oh Thank you for replying. The car actually belongs to my Mom. She has really struggled with this. It must be a drain caused by a short or something. The dealer told her she needed to drive it more to keep it charged up. I think you are right. There was a repair done to the door window not rolling up and I think this problem started after that. That probably should be the first place to look. Thanks again, red333
  • I have a 1990 TC and the a/c is not blowing cold air, last year the same thing happened and I took it to be fixed and charged it cost me $300.00 and now I am have having the same problem. is there a way that I can do it and not cost me so much money b/c right now I can't afford it? I was told by a friend that i can buy any refrigerant at the store and it would work, except I don't know what I am doing and he's out of town for 2 weeks and my kids and I are hot :cry:
  • chad09ochad09o Posts: 4
    what you can do i go to auto zone and get some and talk to them. its easy to do and after you see how to do it you can do it, they can help . there slogan is you have ?S we have anserwers. or just roll the windows downtill he gets back . let me no how it goes. :shades:
  • sobo51ussobo51us Posts: 5
    My front windows aren't working right. I hear the gears working when I press the buttons, but the windows won't budge. If it does roll down, just a little, then it stops. Then I can't get it back up. Any suggestions?
  • mary26mary26 Posts: 1
    I have come across the same problem on the same car at the same time. Have you gotten any response? I have yet to see a response to those who have had this problem. Any one with some solution?
  • sobo51ussobo51us Posts: 5
    I found something that said that over time, the little rubber things that hold the window and raise it, disentegrate over a period of time. And that when you hear the gears working, all you need to do is replace the rubber things, which are 2 kits for $10. I emailed the guy to ask about instructions. He said you pop the door panel off, remove the motor, take the casing apart, replace the rubber mats, and put the motor back in. If this is legit and works, I'll be replacing all 4 windows. He said once one goes, its a good indication that all of them will go. That explains why it was just my driver's window and then all the sudden my front passenger's window did the same thing.

    I'll let you know if this works.
  • papaapapaa Posts: 20
    I remember someone telling me that the little parts you speak of are cheap. The real expense is in time to take it all apart and get to the worn parts. A local repair shop wants $200.00 per door to repair. The riveted parts have to be drilled out and that can be tricky. Good luck and let us know the outcome in your vehicle,sobo51us.
  • sobo51ussobo51us Posts: 5
    I am going to see if we can do it ourselves. Hopefully we can. I'll let you know.
  • dionkraftdionkraft Posts: 1
    This is not a fix but more a addition to the problem. I just bought a 2001 TC but the radio pushbuttons do not lite up as described inthe owners manual. Now I bought a wiring shcematic and see that the std radio has one wire which activates the lights via the light module. BUT I have the alpine version which does not show the same color wire to do so. I would think it would but odes mine activate via the network bus? I dunno..until I pull the radio out and see I guess....The way the manual describes it the buttons will light only when that function is available and unlight the buttons which cannot be selected for a particular mode...sounds complicated...maybe I will but a radio off of eBAy and swap out and see...Thanks!
  • hey i dont know if youve fixed it yet but my car did the samething and i replaced the crankshaft position sensor and its never happend again it only codt 20 bucks for the part
  • 1990 LINCOLN TC SIGNATURE, HEATER CORE BLEWUP, REPLACED THIS AT AUTO STORE, THEN CAR BEGAN OVERHEATING,CHANGED THERMOSTAT, WATER PUMP, SEVERAL HOSES, FLUSHED RADIATOR, CHANGED FAN CLUTCH, PROBLEM STILL PERSISTS, ANYONE KNOWS HOW TO CORRECT THIS PROBLEM?
    MY NEXT MOVE WAS INTENDED TO PUT IN ANEW RADIATOR....I ALSO HAD THE SENSORS CHANGED AND STILL GET A HOT READING BUT ONLY WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION....INITIALLY AFTER 8 MILES ..NOW AFTER ALL THESE CHANGES IT OVERHEATS AFTER 65 MILES....HELP ANYONE
  • ronald1ronald1 Posts: 11
    I solved my overheating problem by having the external cooling fins of the radiator cleaned. Years of bugs and junk just clogged up too much of the surface area. Difficult to clean because the transmission cooler and the ac condenser core block access. No problems with overheating since the cleaning which cost $30.00 at the local service station.
  • neblkcarneblkcar Posts: 1
    There are a series of step in your owners manual that you can follow to remedy all of those issues. I own the same vehicle (actually several of them) I have never had a problem with reseting the oil %. Maybe hold the button longer??
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