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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • edpatinoedpatino Posts: 3
    I am writing from Mexico and have an almost new lincoln towncar 1990. I need the front bumper, chrome with gray moulding and I do not know where to find it. It has to be in excellent condition. Thank you for your help. I have photos of the bumper I need, in case is necessary. Eduardo.
  • edpatinoedpatino Posts: 3
    I am writing from Mexico and I am new about doing this internet searching. My lincoln towncar car 1990 that I have had since new was crushed and for the last month I have been looking for a good front bumper. It is chrome and has a gray moulding. THank you for your help. Eduardo. My email, [email protected]
  • earleneearlene Posts: 5
    I have an 88 Lincoln Town Car Signature. There is an electrical drain on the battery which will totally drain the battery in a months time. Three mechanics have searched for the drain unsuccessfully. I have replaced the alternator, solenoid, computer control module the ignition control switch, and the ignition control module three times. The system check checks out ok. The dor ajar bell comes on if i hit a bump. but there has been no draw found from the door. Any ideas? Thanks, Earlene
  • red333red333 Posts: 4
    Hi Earlene, My Mom's 1990 town car is doing the same thing. The dealer has put 4 new batteries in since Dec. They say they have never seen anything like it. The last time it would not start they thought it was the radio antenna that was trying to go up and down without a request to do so. They disconnected that and thought that might do it.. no luck, 3 weeks later we are back at the dealer. That is the latest. If you find an answer, I sure would like to hear from you. Thanks Nancy
  • How do I reset the drivers seat so that it stays where I position it. When I take the key out of the ignition it goes to the full back position! This has worn out the forward/reverse worm gear in the gear box. You cant buy the gear and they want to sell the complete seat frame assembly at 357 bucks. I am handy and rebuilt the gear but the normal person can't do this. I put a switch in the feed wire but there has to be a better way. The procedure using the remote that is in the owners manual doesn't work. The dealer gave me a blank stare.
  • earleneearlene Posts: 5
    hi nancy, check the ignition switch to see if its getting hot, thats what mine was doing last time. after all the other repairs we narrowed it down to the ignition switch control module. mine started doing it again, i,m going to have it checked again, if it's it this will be the fourth replacement. Does anyone out there know if there is a problem with these switches. still searching for a solution. Earlene
  • I have a 95 TC. About a month or so ago, I took off in a hurry after stopping on the side of I-40 and the transmission slipped big time. Took about a month and it finally gave up the ghost. During the month, I notice a whining or turbine type sound that would start for no apparent reason. I could push the O/D button and after a few moments, the noise would go away and I could re-engage Overdrive. Anyway, had a replacement tranny from salvage yard installed and it is doing ok--except--I still get the turbine, whiny, noise at different times, speeds, conditions. The only thing that seemed to be consistent is that it is worse when it is over 87-88 degrees outside. At 95, it gets pretty annoying, about every 5-10 miles, I have to disengage then reengage the OD. The torque convertor was not replaced during the replacement of the tranny. Fluid and filter was changed. New tranny had about 95K on it. I didn't see a problem since I had traded one that had 195 on it and had not had a minutes trouble out of the transmission. Any ideas what it might be? I have checked my cooling system for coolant levels, obstructions in the shroud area, checked to make sure that both fans are working properly. Radiator and transmission cooler fins are not bent at all. I don't have a clue but a Toyota or Nissan are looking good to me right now. :sick:
  • scootertrashscootertrash Posts: 698
    You got 195k miles out of your Lincoln and "a Toyota or Nissan are looking good to me right now" - give me a break.

    How much did you save by not putting in a used torque convertor while it was all apart- $25?

    That slip and lurch munched your torque convertor. It pumped little bits of metal through your old transmission, destroying it. Then you re-used the junk convertor which has now likely pumped metal bits into your "new" 95k transmission.

    The story about the OD button confirms that diagnosis.

    If you are lucky, changing the convertor might save the current tranny.
  • You have to understand the entire story. I traded a 95 with 195k for this 95 with 81K. Thought I was getting a good deal. After new air suspension, new brakes, new front suspension, tow bill for $270, new tranny, and driving back and forth to Memphis almost every day, I think the other guy got the good deal with my old car. My mechanic told me he was gonna replace the torque convertor but when I picked the car up, I saw the old transmission in the floor and there wasn't a torque converter in it. Do you think if I change the torque converter, the fluid, and the filter, it might be ok? I hope so. I'm a poor boy trying to make a living in the appraisal business and I need a good car with good gas mileage. I've had 2, my Dad has had 5-6, Mom 5-6, my brother 1, and they have all been white. Hopefully I can save this one before it costs me another $600. Thanks for the input.

    gp
  • I'm not doubting you but just out of curiosity, can you explain what is happening when I push the OD button and the noise quits? That has been puzzling me. I'm an old Air Force General Purpose Vehicle Repairman and although I wasn't a cracker jack mechanic, I still like to know how something works and all. Thanks :)
  • scootertrashscootertrash Posts: 698
    A torque convertor slips all the time.

    Think of two fans facing each other:
    One fan is on and the other is off.
    The fan that is on moves the air which spins the blade of the fan that is off. A torque convertor works the same way but with fluid.

    The OD button locks the convertor preventing slippage.

    I think the old convertor was either the cause of the previous failure or a victim of it. Either way, it should have been replaced.
  • earleneearlene Posts: 5
    we finally fixed it!!! after a year of problems we finally found the culprit, two wires above the driver side fender that plug in along with other wires had become worn and bare. they were occasionally rubbing against each other and the body of the car. after a year of asking different mechanics, and taking it to shops a young self taught backyard mechanic found it in under an hour. Bless him!!! I hope this helps others. Nancy, if this doesn,t help, my mechanic also stated that the alternater starting to fo bad could also cause the battery to drain without it showing up. When i find out exactly what wires were exposed and causing the problem, Ill sign bach on and give the new info.
    thanks for all your help! Earlene
  • I like the way you explain it. I can understand that and it makes perfect sense to me now. I talked with my mechanic this morning and he did replace the torque converter but he did not replace the fluid in it, just the fluid in the transmission and the filter. He suggested trying a flush of the entire system with one of those flushing machines. The cost is $110 plus tax at the only place in town that has one. Do you think it is worth a chance or am I wasting my money?
  • red333red333 Posts: 4
    Congratulation Earlene. Thanks for you help. I hope this is solved for you.. we will pass this on to the mechanic.
  • I had a problem with the battery and left my 1992 Town Car idle for about 8 months. We fixed the battery problem but now the car doesnt drive when you put it in gear. It would seem that the transmission is not putting the car in gear. 1) Is there any chance that this isnt just a case of a totally shot transmission. 2) How much would i have to pay to get a new transmisison? Thanks!
  • scootertrashscootertrash Posts: 698
    "...and left my 1992 Town Car idle for about 8 months."

    I'm surprised it didn't run out of gas.

    What probably happened is that sitting for that amount of time, your torque convertor drained and caused a few quarts of fluid to burp out the vent or filler tube.
    Was there a big oil slick under the car?
    Re-fill the transmission and you should be fine.
  • Yes, there was a small puddle. Can i add transmission fluid myself or do i have to take it to a shop? (I know, i am embarasingly inept)
  • I have a 90 Signature series my teprature was running really high I opened the hood to see anti freeze in puddles on top of my engine and was dripping off the inside of my hood. I'm not exactly sure what's wrong or how to fix it any help would be greatly appreaciated
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Considering your 302 engine is basically the same as my 66 Ford 289 - recommend you check the temperature sending unit that sits on top of the engine. Maybe it came unscrewed or the seal got old and let coolant pass out under pressure.
  • sbatorssbators Posts: 3
    Purchased a trashed TC for the demo derby. Ran fine, no issues. Started the car prior to pulling the gas tank, no issue. Pulled the tank reinstalled in the back seat, rewired and relined, now it will not start! When I hook up the battery the interior lights work and I get the bong bong of the key in the ignition, but when I turn the key there is nothing, no sound no nothing at all and the lights no longer work. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Connect and hook up the electric fuel pump embedded in the bottom of the tank.
  • scootertrashscootertrash Posts: 698
    I think the answer lies within the question:

    "...Pulled the tank reinstalled in the back seat, rewired and relined, now it will not start!"
  • sbatorssbators Posts: 3
    I used the original fuel tank with the fuel pump. Everything was rewired with the factory wires, I did not do my own wiring job. Nothing was extended, all wiring was brought through the floor and reconnected.
  • scootertrashscootertrash Posts: 698
    When you turn the key on, do you hear the pump cycle on?
  • sbatorssbators Posts: 3
    No, there is nothing at all, no sound from anywhere just goes completely dead.
  • cdi12003cdi12003 Posts: 3
    qick of many questions since im new,have a 93 lincoln towncar,recently added freon,,no leaks says the mechanic,prior to adding freon,,,the cooling would go for about 10 to 15 min then gradually reduce to warmer air if not almost hot,so im doing things at min as i go along,so i added freon and changed the relay plug in the fuses under hood,,,still getting the same thing,,,nice and cooler for like16 min then reducing to warmer if not hotter air,,,when i cut air off or car turned off for like 30 min or so,air cooler returns,,then again 15 min later armer if not hotter air gradually,Isd it the compressor im thinking or has anybody had this prob in a lincoln befor,,let me know what you guys know ahhhight ,,,thanxs Maestraka ingram and again im new sorry message so long ..
  • shoemakershoemaker Posts: 9
    We had a somewhat similar problem. However, the air would start blowing hot and then back to cold without turning the engine off. It was finally diagnosed as the Blender Door. Big bucks to fix as the dash had to be pulled. But it might be worth it to have the Blender Door checked. Good luck!
  • earleneearlene Posts: 5
    Nancy,I found a "jewel" at the parts store! It's a battery/alternator tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter. It costs about 20$ and has helped us to rule out more problems in the electrical system as well as let me know when the battery is being drained. I reccomend the one which has a digital reading. I plug it in whenever I start the car and check to make sure it has a good charge on the battery. I leave it in until after I turn off the car and check to make sure the battery is not being drained. It turned out that when I turned off the car was when the battery was being drained. The plug in part located just below the ignition switch had worked loose causing the draw occasionally. It would sometimes heat up the key switch, and once it caused the key to lock on. The same part i had replaced three times before.( Im sorry I can't remember the name if it)My mechanic said that if the screws are not tight enough (he suggested using lock tight) the screws can work loose causing these problems.
    Regardless of the problem, I feel safe knowing before I start out that my battery is charged and ready to fulfill it's job! I plan to continue to use it to monitor the battery for another month, until I am sure ther are no more surprises popping up with the electrical system. Your mom would know for sure if her battery is being drained and how much as well as when. I hope mine is finally solved, with my new little "jewel" and time I'll know. Good luck!
    Earlene
  • mmaddenmmadden Posts: 1
    I have a '93 Towncar. It won't start again after driving it more than 30 minutes in excessive heat. After about 1 hour of cooldown it starts fine and will keep starting OK if I just keep shutting it off and starting again. Anybody have any ideas?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    There is a black box on the driver's side fender, under the hood. Try placing a baggie of crushed ice on it for a minute. If the car starts, you've found the correct black box. Having a '94, it worked for me when I towed my boat up to the lake on a 100+ day. ;)
  • We had the same problem with our 1995 town car. We replaced the relay switches (a pair costing $15 and easy installation), inside the black box euphonium talks about in post #436.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You can buy a lot of ice for $15, but your fix is much more preferable. We don't get very many hot hot days on the West side of the Cascades so my relay switches have not been replaced. :)
  • peachpie5254peachpie5254 FloridaPosts: 14
    93 tc. Outside temp reading 15-20 degrees below actual. Any suggestions?
  • Put on a jacket.
  • peachpie5254peachpie5254 FloridaPosts: 14
    Put one on yourself.
  • hi everyone. A friend of mine saw a 1994 lincoln town car for sale on a local used car dealer...here the sorprise: the vendor tell him it's DIESEL!!! yes:apparently it's a 6 in line diesel engine manufactured by ford, i can't tell... yet.
    I know GM of canada makes version diesel of regular gas engine like 2.8 litres; 4.3 litres;4.7 litres; 5.3litres 5.7 litres and ,of corse, the 6.2 litres.

    it's posible that Lincoln/ford tried to rise the sales offering a diesel engine Linoln Town car in canada where diesel fuel seems to be more popular than U.S.?

    It's exist a "Lincoln Town Car Canadian diesel version" just like the diesel version of GM gas engine?

    any answer is welcome.

    Simon trent
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Is your temp gauge set to Metric? Be sure it is tuned to Farenheit as they can go both ways.
  • peachpie5254peachpie5254 FloridaPosts: 14
    No. It's set to English standard. It was 95 today and the thing was reading 79. You get hooked on using it. Just started doing this. I'm going to have to get underneath to see how I can get at it. I'm assuming it's in front of the ac condensor coil. Can't see much from above. Thanks for your response.
  • d0rothyd0rothy Posts: 3
    Here is how it happens. I drive it to a shopping mall, stop the car, go shopping, when I come out, the car promply starts, but stalls. If I start it again, and let it run at a 1000 rpm or so for a while, it might then idle and run fine.
    2 weeks later, it might do it again, except it may not go away. I, then drive the car with two feet holding the idle up, get it home and shut it off. Next morning it is fine.
    Other than this, this cars runs perfect.
    Sometimes it stalls once, then it starts the next time. Any ideas?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    If you have a lot of miles on the car, check out the quality of the air by pass valve located behind the air filter housing.
  • dojo625dojo625 Posts: 1
    I had my window down as I drove to my mailbox and heard a high pitched 'weeeee' noise from the front of the car. It almost sounded like brakes squealing, but I was giving the car light pressure on the accelerator, no brakes involved at all. I stopped and the noise stopped. I put the car in park and stepped on the accelerator. The noise came back. It doesn't seem to intensify with increased pressure on the accelerator. I don't hear the noise when I'm coasting...it's definitely triggered by using the gas pedal. Any ideas?
  • got one response on my 93 lincoln town car ac problem,,,when ac cut on after like 15 min it starts turning warmer,,recently installed more freon and replaced the relay fuse but the same thing and appears to be no leaks,,one response said they had similar trouble turned out to be their blend door ,which im told can be rather bother some,but be that as it may ,,,its so hot who cares i need to be cool ya know! was told they have to take out the dash,,,now! one question is this the entire dash from the left to the right or do they mean dash as in the radio,heater control etc? i appreciate the response i got,,and will consider checking or having blend door motor checked,,,oh by the way ,,,is it motorized cus ive heard it called blend door motor,,,,jit me bac ahhhiiiiight thanks Maestro!
  • I ran a diagnostic @ Advanced auto, the OBD came back "running too lean" as stated by the O2 sensors- and the "Check Engine" light is on. The SUV idles very rough, and will occasionally stall out at a stop light. The problem just started, and I need to drive the Navi across country in the next few days. From what I have researched online, the most popular diagnosis is a leak in the vacuum/intake houses including the PCV system- or possiby a bad injector. I am looking for a professional opinion, or the closest thing to it, as soon as possible. Thank you, and God Bless! ~C.S.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Posts: 572
    Probably your idle air control valve - it was fairly common in those model years. It is part of your intake system, obviously.
  • 91tcar91tcar Posts: 1
    The "air bag" light on my dash blinks 10 times then pauses about a second then blinks 10 more times. This is repeated continuously while the car is running. Does anyone know what causes this?
  • My digital information center flashes "charge system" it has done this since new altenator was put on,but there is nothing wrong with my charging system.Now here is the part that is driving me crazy.There is a beep that goes along with the flashing"charging system"warning,and this thing beeps every 5 seconds,I would love to know how to fix the whole thing or just disconnect that BUZZER.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    papa2one
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    This suggestion is without guarantee, but no harm in trying.

    Disconnect both cables on your battery and wait 30 minutes. Then reconnect the cables. You will lose presets on the radio, but the process may work.

    While the cables are off, clean the terminal posts and cables to make a better contact.
  • kevinekevine Posts: 10
    Hi,
    Don't know if this will help but I have a 2000 town Car and it kept stalling after starting and after some time it would run okay. The problem turned out to be the Air Intake Valve. It was a fairly easy fix and not too expensive.
    Hope this helps. happy riding.
    Kevin
  • I posted a while back about my power windows which quit working. I have bought the parts that it requires to fix the window. However, how do I remove the interior door panel?

    We removed the screws and the bottom part has popped loose, but the top is stuck. How do we remove it without breaking it?
  • jmeaselljmeasell Posts: 30
    The air suspension light on my 91 TC (128K mi) came on recently and I noticed the car looked like a lowrider. I switched the system off then back on in the truck and thought it solved the problem. A few days later, it's back! I repeated the procedure with the same success but suspect it will occur again. Any ideas? air bag? leak in the system? Thanks.
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