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  • atvman29atvman29 Posts: 7
    i don't think its software because I can hear a grinding type noise when they get stuck going down.
  • diton908diton908 Posts: 7
    i was told that the clutch system on my truck wasn't ajustable but i know of a bleeder on the slave i just replaced the master, slave cly and the line between the two now how do i bleed this i know how to bleed brakes is it the same or different thank you for you time and if you could help me that would be great thank you

    95 Chevy 2500 5.7 350V8 4x4
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,475
    Clutch hydraulics can be a bit more temperamental but the idea is the same as for brakes.

    Here's what I'd do.

    I'd buy some brass plugs, remove the line from the master cylinder and plug it. Then I'd pump up the master (the clutch master I mean) and bleed it from this brass plug (just unscrew it and screw it back until the clutch pedal feels really hard).

    THEN after bleeding the master, I'd re-attach the line and using very short rapid strokes (instead of long ones like with brakes), I'd pump fluid down the line, through the slave bleeder and into a clear glass jar already filled with fluid. In this way, no air can enter the system when you let off the clutch pedal, and you also don't need two people. All you have to do is keep adding fluid in the master so that it doesnt empty out---if it goes empty, you'll be pumping air, and you'll have to start ALL OVER AGAIN.

    If this doesn't work, you'll have to rent or borrow a power bleeder.

    One time I had an extra cap for the master cylinder, so I drilled a hole in it and ran a piece of aquarium tubing through it and attached the other end of the tubing to a small can of compressed air. This basically pressurized the master cylinder and forced fluid down. That was on a Saab, which are a DEVIL to bleed.

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  • diton908diton908 Posts: 7
    the master is pre bled from the factory so i shouldn't have to bleed it right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,475
    How could it be pre-bled if it is empty?

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  • Hello to all.....I have an 07 GMC Sierra Classic 1500 pickup 5.3L V8 and I'm trying to find out what springs would be visible, or accessible in the engine when the valve cover is removed. I had service done and the service rep told me something and the service manager told me something else. All I have to go off of is the receipt with the mechanics' notes.
  • diton908diton908 Posts: 7
    the box said it was prebled but i try bleeding i like you told me thank you for the help
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    The valve springs. You know, the ones that close the valves after the rocker arm pushes them open. In some cases, there's springs on the rocker arm assembly that hold the rocker arms in place on the shaft, but I don't think that's the case with a 5.3.
  • diton908diton908 Posts: 7
    the front right shock mount broke found out that it has been broke befour then welded back together the whole bracket is welded to to frame can i buy this whole bracket or do i need to get it welded back somewhere
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Is your suspension raised or lowered from the original? or, are you doing a lot of off roading or something that could damage the suspension parts? Seems unusual that you would break a shock mount.....twice. If suspension height was changed, and the shock length wasn't adjusted accordingly, then I could see the shock bottoming out and putting stress on the shock mount...potentially breaking it. I guess it might also be stressed if the shocks were changed and the wrong shocks were put on.
  • diton908diton908 Posts: 7
    i bought it lifted and the shock bracket was already broken but already welded but i didn't see it the metal bracket is bent but i only broke it once they guy i bought it from broke it first i guess they are the the original shocks at least they look like it
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Ahh Huh,

    Get a good suspension guy to fix it. Since the vehicle is lifted, he needs to set up the new shock mount, with a shock that is the correct length. When the a-frame moves up all the way to it's stop, the shock should not have bottomed out yet. When the a-frame moves all the way down to it's other stop, the shock should not be fully extended.

    If the shock is not the correct length to work with the suspension range, it will either fail or break the shock mount as yours has done. The shock mounts are not sized to handle the weight of the vehicle on them (as in what you would get it the shock bottomed out). The normal pressures on a shock mount, are no more than what it takes to compress a shock, or extend a shock.
  • diton908diton908 Posts: 7
    ok thank you for all of that but all i would like to know is if the bracket is sold some where or do i need to weld it back
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If you weld it back, without fixing the underlying problem as to why it broke twice to begin with, it will break again.

    The vehicle is lifted, you apparently need either different shock mounts, or different shocks, or both depending upon how they modified your truck. You need to get it to a good suspension shop who is familiar with modifying suspensions.

    If you don't want to do it right, if you have the part then just go have it welded somewhere. That will be the quickest cheapest way to 'fix' it.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Any Chevy dealer has a parts man with a parts book (ok, now it is a computer) that answers that question.
  • to all the experts so call Book Mechanics.Forget about the above message.Have it Running.
  • tink2tink2 Posts: 2
    I am replacing my headlight bulp, passenger side, Have the battery and reservior out and cant get the bulb retainer ring loose, any suggestions? :confuse:
  • tink2tink2 Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 honda accord se 272K automatic and I am trying to replace the headlamp on the passenger side. I have the battery out and the reservior but can't get the retaining ring around the lamp to turn so i may pull out the bulb assembly. Any suggestions? :confuse: :confuse:
  • Hi
    We have a 97 Geo Metro with a 4 cylinder.
    Automatic transmission High mileage
    Recently we began having problems with it staying running until eventually it would not even start at all. A friend suggested we replace the throttle positioning sensor, which made sense, so we did.
    Now it starts, no problem, unfortunately, the throttle is stuck WIDE open and will not throttle down. We tried resetting the computer but that did not help. We can’t leave it running long enough to mess with it for fear it will blow up. And don’t really have a clue as to where to start.
    Does anyone have any suggestions?
    With fuel prices approaching $4 a gallon in Washington state, it would be so nice to have the Geo running again.
    Thank you in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,475
    Here's what the book says to do AFTER you install the TPS:

    Adjustment Procedure
    Using a Digital Multimeter (J 39200 or equivalent) perform the following steps:

    1. Insert a 3.5 mm (0.14-inch) feeler gage between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever.
    2. Inspect the Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor plunger. If the ISC motor plunger is contacting the throttle lever screw, then the engine must be brought to operating temperature.
    3. Back probe the TP sensor signal circuit at the PCM connector to ground.
    4. Turn ON the ignition.
    5. While observing TP sensor voltage on the DVM, turn the TP sensor until the voltage reading is 0.98 to 1.02 volts . Tighten the TP sensor screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb. in.) . Using a scan tool perform the following steps:

    1. Insert a 3.5 mm (0.14-inch) feeler gage between the throttle stop screw and the throttle lever.
    2. Inspect the Idle Speed Control (ISC) motor plunger. If the ISC motor plunger is contacting the throttle lever screw, then the engine must be brought to operating temperature.
    3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC) and select the TP sensor voltage parameter.
    4. Turn ON the ignition.
    5. While observing TP sensor voltage on the scan tool, turn the TP sensor until the voltage reading is 0.98 to 1.02 volts . Tighten the TP sensor screws to 2.0 Nm (18 lb. in.) .

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  • ljgbjgljgbjg Posts: 374
    Had same problem with my '88 Trnas Am 5.0. It was a little part in the distributor that would get too warm. I cannot remember exactly what it was but it was NOT a fuel problem - an electrical problem. I was in DC with it near the tidal basin - just completely died - coasted into the tidal basin - let it sit about 15 minutes - started right up. Got back on I-95 and about 15 minutes later it did the same thing. Coasted off an exit and waited. Started again, went to the nearby Chevy dealer and they could not tell me immediately what it was. Got back to Fredericksburg and went to a local auto parts place - they knew IMMEDIATELY what it was. I put the part in - bingo. Problem solved. Just go to a GOOD parts store with some guys who know cars and explain your problem - it is not uncommon. Good luck.
  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    2004 Audi A8 4.2 V8 6 spd auto, 50K miles.
    Battery 100%. Vehicle has lights, radio accessories. Will not start. Cannot get tranny out of Park to load vehicle. Where's the manual disconnect for Park?
  • rhorowitzrhorowitz Posts: 1
    BMW Z3 convertible
    6 cylinder 2.3 liter
    56,000 miles

    Does anybody know what causes codes 171 and 174, banks are too lean?

  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    Found the manual disconnect for Park. Under the ash tray and works great. Now why won't it start ??
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,475
    You mean it cranks and cranks but doesn't start, or it won't even crank?

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  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Also, how do you know the battery is 100%? Not just because the accessories and lights work, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,475
    What year?

    Which engine? There is no 2.3 I don't think.

    Let's presume a 2001 2.5 engine:

    These are generic trouble codes and are not the same as BMW factory codes, so using just the generic codes can lead to false conclusions.

    Possibilities include:

    bad fitting oil cap (where you add oil)

    vacuum leak in manifold or in some vacuum line

    bad oxygen sensors

    bad/dirty/maladjusted MAF sensor

    the engine is apparently running lean (fuel mixture incorrect) for some reason.

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  • harboharbo Posts: 136
    Car systems check shows battery at 90%. Manual says 60 / 80%. O.K.
    Will not crank. Thought it might have been the starter, however there is no power to the windows as well. Power to trunk, radio, lights etc.

    Hmmm ... maybe the ignition switch since I have had the intermitent key issue over the past year. ??
  • rob113rob113 Posts: 3
    recently i have heard the car knocking on accerleraction
    i replaced the plugs and changed all fluids
    car still sounds like it has bad gas / if got 2 or 3 tank fulls
    same noise.
    does anyone have this problem
  • rob113rob113 Posts: 3
    some cars have an in line fuse check your cars manual.
    it should be some place close to the battery terminals
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