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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    Both for fire hazard and current surge. I'm hearing more and more about damage to modern cars done simply by jump starting---even jump-starting correctly. I suspect in a few more years this procedure will be forbidden or severely discouraged by automakers. Not sure what that means for AAA, but oh well.

    I understand there are "intelligent" battery cables out there, but I don't know much about them at this point. Perhaps this is the way AAA and car owners will cope with this issue in the future.

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  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,345
    one thing I have burned into my memory (that I will remember long after alzhiemers makes me forget my name) is how to jump start an Opel Manta.

    starting with the "good" car, it was pos-pos, neg-ground (grounding on the Opel hood hinge)

    are you saying now it should be pos-pos, ground-ground? Or ground on the good car, then neg on the dead one?

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,345
    they don't use cables anymore. They all carry those portable battery boxes. IIRC, one cable to the battery, and I guess a ground? Unless that is built in.

    If you can't jump, are you supposed to replace the battery any time it goes dead? That seems ridiculous.

    All batteries should come with that little hidden reserve that one model has 9something where you turn a switch, and it uses the "hidden" juice to start the car)

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    yes I've seen those "batteries within batteries". Seems like a good idea.

    Also those portable battery packs seem safer, since they aren't hooked up to another car's alternator that's pumping out extra juice. That's what I use. I threw away my jumper cables.

    The reason I suggest that the last cable to be attached is the donor car's negative frame side, is that the jumper (meaning me) can control the entire situation, and is also away from either battery in case of explosion.

    You don't want to be near an exploding battery---this is a very nasty business.

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  • oregonboyoregonboy Posts: 1,653
    The danger is the spark that occurs when the final connection is made. Batteries can accumulate hydrogen gas. A spark occurring near the battery (like at the negative post), can ignite the hydrogen and make the battery go BOOM.... or so I've heard.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    I've seen it happen...eye-witness. It's nasty.

    Think of it as an acid-filled hand grenade made especially for you.


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  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    You want the last connection to made far away from a battery, so that any sparks do not set off any hydrogen gas that may have out gassed from the battery,
  • My brother in law has a 2004 Acura RL and when he pushes the throttle the engine or somewhere there makes a clicking noise, it only happens when the gas is being pushed and no other time. ALso, when accelerating really fast, it doesnt make that clicking noise.

    any ideas what it could be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    Sounds like an exhaust manifold leak.

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  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I don't know what a "mare's nest" is, but usually these type of things are imported in containers and resold on the American market by local distributors. Even so, the prices being dirt cheap are an indicator of how cheap manufacturing is in China, and why we can't compete. Sounds kind of like Japan used to be, right? I have found though that most of these things aren't of any quality and are usually not worth much more than you pay, if even that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    Okay interesting stuff, but let's try not to stray off topic please.

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Cheap, yes, but don't forget to test the paint for lead once you receive it.

    To stay on topic, a friend of mine asked me when should she replace her timing belt. I asked her which car. She tells me hers of course a '99 C5. Told her she didn't have a timing belt but rather a timing chain so no problem. Then she asked, "if a timing chain fails will it leave me stranded?".

    Long story short, her car just turned 10 years old and hit 100K miles. She asked when should she change her timing chain as being stranded is not an option. Needless to say she didn't like my reply as I told her to trade it on a C6.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    That's a good time to trade in a Corvette--maybe even over-time.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    All posts related to solicitation, multiple member names, and off-topic comments will be immediately removed.

    thank you


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  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,643
    Basic symptom is with foot off the accelerator vehicle continues to roll along at 40 MPH (or maybe 50) on a flat road without slowing down. Kind of like it thinks you still have your foot on the gas. Not a big deal on flat road, but going downhill with a police officer coming toward you, well I made a $125 donation to the state of Vermont. It has happened twice, once late lat winter on a trip, and a last week. It resolved itself after I was pulled over and restarted it and hasn't returned. No
    ce/ses lights or anything and haven't had it checked yet for codes (and may not be easily re-creatable gieven history). I am thinking it may be Throttle position sensor issue, any other ideas?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Or maybe a physical problem. Check the current topic of news - the floor mat is messing with the accelator pedel.

    Or the cable under the hood is kinked.

    Some higher milage cars can actually build up crud on the throttle valve causing it to not close. Take off the intake tube and get a toothbrush and electrical/carb cleaner and lots of rags or paper towels and clean that butterfly valve up, especially around the edges front and back. If this is the problem you should be able to see the crud built up.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,317
    > but going downhill with a police officer coming toward you,

    The brake pedal would have slowed the car...

    I think Bolivar is spot on with the throttle plate gummed up theory. If you're above 45 the trans may be in 4th so a slight throttle opening will keep the engine pulling lightly and hold speed. BUT usually the throttle plate having gum around it is felt when starting the car. As things cool the throttle body shrinks and the throttle plate shrinks less with a different coefficient of expansion and the first time you try to move the cold throttle plate after starting it is stuck in place with the gum filling in the clearance. So the movement when it lets go gives too much gas--not good if you're in gear.

    But your car may have the problem which is oily goop from the engine sump area condensing in the upper parts after being shut off.

    If you do it yourself, the ideal way is to take off the whole throttle body, remove MAF and Idle Air control and clean. Then reassemble with a fresh gasket where it butts up against the upper intake manifold.

    The end of the throttle body has a honeycomb on it which is held in by a spring clip around the circumference. It's very fragile to remove. Use a wood stick to hold towel or cloth and use air intake cleaner on the cloth and rub. I don't recommend spraying it in. A toothbrush or other plastic brush may soften around the bristles and lose them inside due to the solvent. (Ask how I know.)

    A mechanical binding should be noticed if you take off the beauty cover on the motor and move the linkage yourself as a way of checking for cable binding. You might be able to feel the cold friction I mentioned earlier when you first move the throttle plate as a way of verifying the oil gunk is the problem.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • If I install a switch that would allow me to temporarily disconnect my antenna from my car radio (to cut off most of the radio signals from getting to the radio), will the sort of FM transmitters that plug into cigarette lighters work better ?

    Or are those FM transmitters dependent upon the antenna being connected to the radio ?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If you unplug/switch off the antenna, just how is the radio going to receive the signal from that FM transmitter?????????/
  • I assumed that my mp3 player signal would pass to the radio via the FM transmitter wire connected to the cigarette lighter, sort of like the workaround Audiovox device----see

    Maybe not eh ?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    "The Audiovox RF Modulator FMM100A connects to your factory Car FM Radio Antenna."

    When using a modulator to antenna connection, the highs in the frequency response go from 20,000 to about 12,000 and the lows are not enhanced either.

    If you have a cheap ear, then it doesn't matter.
  • I thought the wire connecting my mp3 player to the cigarette lighter socket would be an adequate antenna for the radio to receive the FM Modulator signals.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Is not the wire encased in insulation which would insulate any reception?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You are not understanding the concept at all.

    Your MP3 'player' is also a FM broadcast radio station. It send an FM signal out. A very, very low power signal. You FM radio then uses its antenna to receive this signal. On some frequency set on the MP3 player. Or it might have several frequencies you can select from. You then tune your FM radio to this frequency, and it receives the signal (and music) being broadcast from your MP3 player.

    So, your radio will definitely need to have its standard antenna installed and working.

    Unless you have some kind of other strange MP3 player, this is how it's going to work. There are all kinds of 'players' that will work like this. Many of the add-on 6-CD 'players' are able to be easily installed, all they need is power (off a cigarette lighter for example) and they then broadcast the FM signal which is received through the stock radio installed in a car.

    Yes, audio connoisseurs hate these type setups because they feel there are huge losses in music quality. But it gives a lot of flexibility in getting music into an auto.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    My ears rate the CD capable of the highest fidelity followed by tape, and FM to be last.

    If you are not a trained professional musician, it probably won't make any difference to you, but audiophiles can be irratated with boom boxes connected to high output amplifiers. :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    Actual vinyl records can sound pretty darn good vis a vis CDs but they're hard to play in a car :P

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  • 04 Buick Rendezvous CXL (V6, automatic, 93K. Problem: Driver's heated seat was working just fine then got REALLY hot (uncomfortably hot!) and then just quit. Light on control switch still lights up but the heat doesn't come on. Has anyone any ideas where to start on a DIY troubleshoot /fix. Can't afford another repair bill right now!!! Thanks to all who take the time to respond. Maybe I can help you someday.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I would guess that some wiring burnt out in the seat.

    Put an ohmeter on the seat heating element, see if it shows infinite resistance (an open), or some resistance.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    The attempt at playing old records in the car was made by Chrysler Corp in the 50's when they installed a "45" record player in the glove compartment. I never heard one, but understand they worked best when the car was parked, at night, overlooking the city lights, up on Lovers Lane. :D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,590
    Well in THAT case, anything would have sounded good. But those were the old days. Now you just log online and do simulations with your avatars. :)

    The problem with sound systems in cars is that basically the car is a hostile environment for these things.

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