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Got a Quick, Technical Question?

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,218
    When you close the throttle, engine vaccum sucks fresh air from the airbox directly into the exhaust ports to create better burning and to dilute the exhaust gases.

    So I guess it's something like the old air injection pumps on early emissions cars.

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  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 748
    edited March 16
    My friend has an F-150. He just lamented to me that he cannot find a decent manual with specs, troubleshooting steps, or decent visuals for him to follow to get the 4wd working. Recommendations?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,043
    guitarzan said:

    My friend has an F-150. He just lamented to me that he cannot find a decent manual with specs, troubleshooting steps, or decent visuals for him to follow to get the 4wd working. Recommendations?

    The information in those sources is identical to what professional techs get to work with. Most of the diagnostics start with a suitable scan tool which is capable of pulling codes, commanding system self tests, performing bi-directional commands and displaying pertinent data. From there, armed with the schematic and appropriate tooling that can be used to back-up the data that the scan tool displayed top techs use a hybrid routine based on their own ability to troubleshoot and when appropriate use the trouble trees.

    As far as him not finding anything decent, a lot of the information that is supplied to techs is in serious need of revision. Techs get paid .3 to use that information to analyze a vehicle complaint while it is under warranty.

    Can your friend pull codes and access data? If so post it and I'll walk you (him) through the diagnostics.
    Make sure to include year, engine, transmission and transfer case information and control style.

  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 748
    edited March 17

    There are no trouble codes. Is there any pertinent data provided in this case?Can your friend pull codes and access data? If so post it and I'll walk you (him) through the diagnostics. Make sure to include year, engine, transmission and transfer case information and control style.

    YEAR: 1997
    ENGINE: 4.6 V6
    TRANNY: AUTOMATIC
    He says it is not shift on fly, not old-style lockout, but the "other" version, be stopped or in park and pull handle back.

    There are no trouble codes.

    He thinks the shafts are frozen in the transfer case. How to unstick? Or there is a vacuum leak...?

    The solenoid clicks on engagement. The plunger moves freely. Dash indicator shows it goes into 4wd. There is vacuum on the hose leading into the transfer case. But the tires do not lock.

  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,043
    Oh, that system. Vacuum leaks at the hubs are common. The hubs work like a click pen. One click engages, the second click disengages them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,218
    2nd vote for vacuum leaks on THAT system (notorious).

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  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 748
    edited March 17
    He guessed that as one of the possible issues but he does not know how to proceed. He says a reasonable diagram of the mechanism should assist though.
  • t_j_duskyt_j_dusky Posts: 5
    usually an intake air temperature circuit with low input
  • grs1961 said:

    The blower fan for heat/ac was only working on Hi speed. I replaced the resistor which solved the problem for about 2 weeks before if failed. I replaced it again thinking I got a bad resistor and again it lasted about 2 weeks. Any suggestions on what is causing it to go out?

    Did your fan motor kinda squeel or rattle on high.

  • mark156 said:

    I guess this is a general question that could fit any car. I have a '95 Mercedes Benz E-320 cabriolet with only 30,000 miles. I just put it in for service yesterday and the service guy said other than the normal tuneup that it will receive, that I should have the radiator flushed along with the brake fluid replaced and the tranny fluid changed.... is that a normal procedure with a low mileage, not driven much... car?

    Thanks, Mark156

    I don't know about benz but coolant should be flushed with (i use Prestone) radiator flush and new antifreeze every 30k miles or every 5 years. I use good ole fashioned green coolant. As for the transmissions Some folks say every 30k miles some say 50k some say 100k and some say never. I say they put filters in the transmission for a reason and those filters get dirty and clogged up.
    My personal preference is 30k as its cheaper to spend 60 dollars on oil and filter than it is to spend 1000-3500 rebuilding a transmission and IMO that includes using synthetic oil. Its all about duty usage.

    Oil breaks down from not only dirt but humidity. The water kills it faster than the dirt. And you really can't keep humidity from condensing inside the transmission and over time the viscosity goes to crap.

    For example i told a young gal a year ago when she got her truck from her grandpa that based on color of the oil which was caramel colored instead of red, she needed to change oil. Wellll she didn't. And 1 year later i was replacing solinoids that had plugged up and burned out. It had 70k miles on that oil.
    I would go with 50k miles on a transmission oil and filter change and call it a compromise. Oil in engines, i am still old school of every 3k miles or 3 months whichever comes first.
  • tinap78tinap78 Posts: 2
    I have a 02 Redenzvous. I replaced the front & back brakes along with bearings but every since then it has been squeaking when I back up. Well now its squeaking as I drive down the road. 
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 56,218
    You may have to double-check your work. You may have installed a spring clip in wrong for instance. It's also possible the rotor isn't torqued correctly and is moving slightly--same with a caliper.

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