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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 117,101
    miami_bmw said:

    I'm looking to lease 1 of the 3 cars below. I like them all, and am willing to go with the one that I can get the best deal on, or that has the best lease program. Is there one below that I will (generally) be able to get a better deal on? I'm in Miami, zip 33014. I'm aiming for the usual 7% off MSRP, before incentives. Inception only, $0 cap cost reduction.

    Jaguar F-Pace 25t AWD (2019)
    BMW X3 sDrive
    Volvo Xc60 T6

    Below is the info that I have pulled from the various forums/threads. If you see anything incorrect, I would appreciate if you would point out and provide the correct figures. 36/12k for all numbers below. Can you list the increase in residual for dropping down to 10k per year? Thank you very much.

    BMW X3 sDrive
    MF: .00166
    Residual: 59% @10k and 58% @12k

    Volvo Xc60 R Design/Inscription T6
    MF: .00153
    Residual: 58% @ 12k

    Jaguar F-Pace Prestige/R Sport 25t (2019)AWD
    MF: .00001
    Residual: 51% @ 12k

    You aren't likely to get a good deal on any 2019, this early in the season.
    Out of those three, the BMW and Volvo will likely have the lowest payment. We've seen bigger discounts on the X3 than usual, but no incentives.

    I'd be on the lookout for leftover 2018 models, if you want a low lease price.

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  • SadiesSadies CAPosts: 2
    Can someone please help me. I went to get a smog. My 2002 mpv did not pass because my check ingine light did not come on while they tested lights. So I went home and changed the bulb myself. It does not come on When I check my lights. is that normal or do you think its another problem???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    You might check your owner's manual or a wiring diagram to see if the check engine light is fused or not. If not, then you might have bad wiring (ground) to the PCM, or the PCM itself could be bad. Quite possibly you could disconnect the PCM, then ground the check engine light wire to see if the light goes on. If it does, then you have either bad ground wiring to the bulb from the PCM, or a bad PCM itself.

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  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 799
    Considering a used car to replace my 2000 Celica. I was thinking about a certified BMW, a 328i or 528i x-drive, 50k miles, $20-22k. My former boss had a turbo 2008 that requires a total rebuild to find the vacuum leaks, the car was worthless. UGh. Does this BMW path lead to constant quarterly maintenance? How are these cars today? I would keep this next car for 20 years like the last one (Don't really know for sure, but maybe.) The one thing that attracts me over the Japanese cars: All of the stainless steel underneath. Our road salt has utterly destroyed my Celica. Nothing really "broke" on the Celica but it does not matter because technically it all corroded away. Alternate choices may be the Accord and Acura ILX. I don't know perhaps an Outback?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 117,101
    guitarzan said:

    Considering a used car to replace my 2000 Celica. I was thinking about a certified BMW, a 328i or 528i x-drive, 50k miles, $20-22k. My former boss had a turbo 2008 that requires a total rebuild to find the vacuum leaks, the car was worthless. UGh. Does this BMW path lead to constant quarterly maintenance? How are these cars today? I would keep this next car for 20 years like the last one (Don't really know for sure, but maybe.) The one thing that attracts me over the Japanese cars: All of the stainless steel underneath. Our road salt has utterly destroyed my Celica. Nothing really "broke" on the Celica but it does not matter because technically it all corroded away. Alternate choices may be the Accord and Acura ILX. I don't know perhaps an Outback?

    Most newer BMWs have 10K-15K service intervals.

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    20 Years? I don't think so. As they age, German cars become more maintenance intensive, so IMO the service intervals of nearly new cars don't apply.

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 117,101
    I missed the part where you said you'd keep it for 20 years.

    You have to love a car to keep it that long.

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  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 799
    kyfdx said:

    I missed the part where you said you'd keep it for 20 years.

    You have to love a car to keep it that long.

    Definitely not. I have little emotional attachment to cars. Money that would go to payments goes instead to savings. No debt means real choices in life aside from being a working zombie slave.
    kyfdx said:

    Most newer BMWs have 10K-15K service intervals.

    Oil, fluids, inspection? No problem. I'm obsessive about these things. But what about $1000 parts that break? The Toyota's and Honda's I have had go 8-10 years doing nothing but regular maintenance. A 3-5 year old BMW, will it start socking me with significant repairs? That is the impression, correct or not, that I have about these cars.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 799
    edited February 9
    https://www.yourmechanic.com/estimates/bmw/528i

    This is interesting - Average costs by year...if it has any validity.

    https://www.edmunds.com/bmw/5-series/2014/cost-to-own/

    These are some hefty maintenance costs in year 4-5. I presume costs continue at similar rates in year 6?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 117,101
    I don’t have a lot of experience with newer BMWs out of warranty. We had a 2011 that we put 94K on, and it was pretty reliable. But, nowhere near your Toyota, as far as costs.

    If it’s just an appliance, and you don’t love cars, why even consider paying up for a Euro luxury model?

    Pretty judgmental about other people’s choices. My wife is on her 5th BMW, and we aren’t zombie slaves. ;) No debt and both retired.

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  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 799
    edited February 9
    kyfdx said:

    Pretty judgmental about other people’s choices. My wife is on her 5th BMW, and we aren’t zombie slaves. ;) No debt and both retired.

    You do not represent the far majority of people who are purchasing new cars. Watch the news? There was a federal worker on furlough who said they could not make their car payment this month. They missed ONE paycheck. There is still a huge percentage of this society that is in deep trouble if they miss one or two paychecks. Listen to guys like Dave Ramsey? A large portion of this population is living far above their means, even after 2000 and 2008. That is what my comment referred to, and why I have had the same car for twenty years.
    kyfdx said:

    If it’s just an appliance, and you don’t love cars, why even consider paying up for a Euro luxury model?

    As I mentioned the stainless underbody of a BMW would be a good choice for the very long term that I may hold this car here in the Northeast. No doubt some of the Japanese cars are rust buckets. Toyota pressed the quarter panels together with that adhesive that holds water, so both sides rusted from the inside out, and totally ruined the rear of the car. According to my paint guy: Something I could do nothing about. That has me considering a protest vote against a Toyota this time around.

    Is there anyone else who handles the build/metal as well as the Germans? How is the Subaru?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    This sounds like a case of pick your poison. With modern cars, the rust protection is getting better and better, but the electronics are getting more and more complex. So based on that, you may end up with a perfectly preserved but troublesome and pricey-to-fix German car 5 years after purchase.

    My point is that I think every country of origin has their strong and weak points, when it comes to automobile assembly.

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  • EScottEScott TexasPosts: 6
    alcan said:

    Read post #24 in this topic.

    How do you find that? I didn't see anyone's posts being numbered. I am new here, so....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    Are you referring to a Saturn post from long ago? If so, here it is:

    "Saturn engines don't have a camshaft position sensor. Camshaft position is picked up from #4 cylinder via the ignition module. A misfire on #4 cylinder will set the cam sensor code. Usually indicates it's due for new plugs and wires. Use OEM Delco if you want it to run right.

    Oil around the plugs, the owner didn't say whether it's an SL1 single cam or SL2 double cam engine. If SL2, it needs a valve cover gasket.

    If still extended crank or no start after plugs and wires, check fuel pressure. Should be 38-44 psi and hold there after key off.

    Another possibility re a no-start is a jumped timing chain caused by the nylon shoe falling apart on the chain guide. If so, the exhaust valves are dinked and the head has to come off. There's usually lots of warning in the form of a rattle out of the front of the engine for a while before the chain jumps."

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  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 2,552
    I have used Chevron Techron fuel injection cleaner since the late 80s as this was recommended by the VW service advisor for my ‘89 Jetta. With the direct injection on my Accord, is it beneficial to use fuel injection cleaner? I periodically use it for the Pilot and used some on our recently acquired ‘06 TL.

    2010 Pilot EXL-RES, 2013 Accord EX, 2006 Acura TL/Nav

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    I don't think the gas actually hits your intake valves on that engine--but I'm not sure. Some of the newest direct injection designs use both port and DI.

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  • stickguystickguy Posts: 32,070
    my Elantra sport was required to use top tier gas, and if you didn't, every other oil change they called for a fuel system treatment (their own product of course).

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    "who" called for it? The car itself, or the dealer, or the owner's manual?

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  • stickguystickguy Posts: 32,070
    the owner's manual.

    2019 Acura TLX A-spec 4 cyl. (mine), and 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's)

  • Tabatha1333Tabatha1333 PittsburghPosts: 2
    edited April 9
    I hope someone can help... 2007 cadillac SRX with 75,000 miles has the check engine light on ( and tire light on). The check engine code is bringing up a bad 02 sensor. Replaced all of them and it still tells me bad 02 sensor. So we replaced the cat. converter. STILL throwing up the 02 sensor code! Any insight? Is in a bad computer... which is why I bring up the tire light being on as well. We tried a million times to clear that and it won't clear either, tires are fine. Thank you for your time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,467
    Well, Try-nostics are expensive. The code doesn't actually tell you which component is bad, only the circuit that is in distress. So every part of that circuit/system has to be checked individually. The trash cans of the world are filled with perfectly good 02 sensors.

    So what code are you getting? Was this code extracted with a professional scan tool or one of those little code readers? The reason I ask is that the code readers can't read all the codes that might be stored.

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