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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair



  • niko27niko27 Posts: 1
    Latest Latest Info: I also have just spoken with SIRIUS and was given the run-around. I finally got the Customer Support Supervisor explained that the satellite had been working until they did their Update. I too was told that both Chrysler and Mazda's have been having this problem and that their techs were working with the Mazda Techs. to resolve the problem. I also got SIRIUS to give me a $39 credit to my account and a $20 good faith credit to my account. I also read in here that SIRIUS holds that account inactive for "2 years". Actually it's 2 months and they suspend the account. Once the issue has been resolved you just call and unsuspend it. Provided SIRIUS can get past this hump; I see it becoming the "NEW" standard in radio.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    We have a couple cars with the same sirius problem...Mazda wants us to wait a bit before we start replacing you indicated, and we have confirmed, they are working with Sirius to resolve the problem.
  • vmg1vmg1 Posts: 3
    FYI - Go to for the latest info on the Sirius issue. Look under the Satellite Radio Forum section.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    "Mazda wants us to wait a bit before we start replacing you indicated, and we have confirmed, they are working with Sirius to resolve the problem"

    Based on my experience and complete understanding of the Mazda customer service system - Mazda will have a fix in 2011 - but they will not start fixing cars until 2015.
  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    They sent out a special bulletin that says if billz71 comments on the problem all issues will be fixed immediately except for his car which will only be fixed the day after he sells his mazda.
  • They will fit just fine.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I don't have problem with Sirius radio - because don't have one!

    Maybe that is where I made a mistake - I should have purchased a Mazda3 without AC - brakes - tranny - suspension - air bags - tires - I could have avoided most of the defects.
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    I attempted to rotate my tires last night, and my passenger rear refuses to come off. I can not tell if there is some fusing from rust or what. Does anyone have any tips to get a stubborn tire off? Would spraying WD40 be a bad idea?
  • prdmprdm Posts: 145
    Loosen lug nuts and very slowly lower jack until you get some spring compression. That should break wheel free. Raise back up and finish.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I would not spray WD-40 on it - it will be hard to not get it on the brake parts.

    I tried using a rubber hammer - would not come off.

    So - I jacked up the car - sat down on the ground facing the tire - and using both legs "mule kicked" the bottom edge of the tire as hard as I could several times until it broke free.

    Before I put the wheels back on I put some WD-40 on a paper towel and cleaned the inside hub of the wheel - did not leave much WD-40 on the wheel - but since have take the wheels off several times with no problems.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The first time I had to remove my wheels I had a similar experience. The cure is anti-seize compound which you can find in a hardware store or auto shop. Bill's WD-40 sounds good, too.
  • bfyerxabfyerxa Posts: 78
    I'm looking at the 3 and the Civic. Like the 3's dynamics over the Civic, Civic is more refined, etc. So now looking deeper into both. Generally a Honda fan as every one I have owned has been bulletproof - but they are boring! Skimming through this group and I see the 3 has a stalling problem :surprise: . I hate these nebulous problems because once you get them it is a beeeyotch to get it solved. Does this affect the 2.3l only, or is the 2.0l prone as well? I would be getting a manual tranny. We have a Mazda5 manual (which I love driving) and when cold it seems to be a little dead when stepping on the gas and trying to pull away from a stop. In fact, it is sluggish below 3k rpm and you can really feel the VVT stuff kick in at that point. After a few minutes it all goes away and the power seems fine. But no stalling...
  • Hi,
    I have a Mazda 3 2005 and I had it in to my mazda dealer for the Check Engine Light 8 times in the last year. I got a lemon lawyer and sued. I got all my money back and Mazda paid my legal fees. I deposited the check today. I wish you luck. I live in California and the Lemon law works well. All in all it took about 1 month.
  • I need to fill up brake/clutch fluid and coolant on my 2005 5-door. I'm not sure what to use. Then manual says the coolant has to be "FL22" if that is written on the cap. Well, there is nothing written. It also would be interestig to know, because that FL22 has to be repalced after 10 years/120,000 miles. and other coolant every 4 years.

    For my Buick I used DexCool from GM, but that is pink, the stuff in the mazda looks blue.

    About the brake fluid the manual says it should be SAEJ1703 or FMVSS116DOT3 which one should I use? Can I use any that meets those specs?

    what power steering fluid should I use? for my buick with 137,000 miles I just used soem from Walmart, but that does not say if it is ATF-M III or equivalent...

    So, what do I use?

    thanks for the help
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I can not help you much on what type of fluid to use - if you can't figure it out from the manual - you can always call Mazda customer service - or send them an e-mail.

    Its normal for the fluid level in the brake and clutch to drop as the brake pads and clutch wear. In most cars it is best to not top it off - unless the level gets close to the minimum line. Then it would be a good idea to check your brake pads - when new pads are installed the level will come back up. Its also not a good idea to take the cap off any more than absolutely necessary. Brake fluid will absorb moisture quickly (even from high humidity) this will cause corrosion in the brake system.

    If the brake pads are not worn and you need to add fluid (every few months) it can indicate you have a leak in the system.
  • Mazda's 2.3 engine comes equipped with a timing chain.
    I was also curious about the answer to your question so performed some research. I read several threads from auto mechanics who noted that a timing can last 100,000 to 200,000 miles before it needs to be replaced. Oil change intervals seems to be the under lying factor that determines the service life.
    Good luck with your car.
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    That's interesting, I asked about this at my last oil change, and the service tech told me it was a belt. He also said it should absolutely be replaced at 60,000 mile intervals ($350.00). I'm not saying you are wrong carhopper, just noting there seems to be a lot of different information out there. I had one break in my Honda back in '97. The Honda had 140,000 on it, but it happened in the worst possible place in the dead of winter on my way home for Christmas. Anyway, the repair shop it was towed to gave me this BS about the belt snapping, and the valves being bent, and yadda yadda yadda, they'd give me $80.00 for it for scrap. I ended up renting a two wheeled trailer, and my brother towed it to a Honda dealer...$350.00 later, I drove the car for another 20,000 miles, and my brother is still driving it today. Now in my V-Dub, I was always worried about it breaking b/c everyone in a VW had a timing belt horror story. In any case experience has dictated that this is one part to get updated before it fails. When it does fail, the results will more than likely be quite inconvenient.
  • m3fan3m3fan3 Posts: 27
    my 2006 mazda 3's cd changer just crashed. i cant do anything like change discs or tracks or eject them. the screen says everything it usually says (the lapse time, cd#, track #)has anyone had this problem or have any idea how to fix this besides going to the dealer. by the way this isnt the first this has happened. it happened the same exact way and mazda replaced it)
  • This problem affects 2006 Mazda 3's and possibly many other Mazda products that share the same locking mechanism design

    Thieves have figured out a way to bypass the Mazda locking and alarm system without the alarm going off. We purchased three 2006 3 Mazda 3's and two of them have been broken into twice each using the same technique. The charteristic mark is a 4 to 5 inch long dent about 2/3 the way along the driver's door just below the bottom of the window.

    I won't go into the specific technique that is suspected but it works

    Mazda knows about this problem. I think that it should result in a recall - What do you think. Consummers should have a reasonable expectation that if a thief enters a vehicle the included alarm should activate - right?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Mazda3 uses a timing chain not a belt. If the service guy at Mazda told you it has a belt then he is an idiot.

    BTW - unless Mazda developed some new system - the engine oil never comes into contact with timing chain - so I don't see a connection between how often you change engine oil and the life of the chain. I have seen a chain fail because it stretched - so it messed up the engine timing - but this was in a V8 that had over 500 HP.

    In all but a very few situations the chain will out last the engine.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Bill's right it's a chain which likely will outlast the engine. A truly useful improvement over the Protege (its predecessor) which used the belt. Why are there timing belts in this day and age? Is it simply to lower the vehicle's production costs?
  • The interior plastic of the 2007 4dr GT seems to attract dirt and scuff marks. Has anyone found a good way to keep this looking clean and new?

  • dridedride Posts: 139
    Is it a bunch of baloney then to replace it at 60k miles? Would you folks ever replace it? I do not think this is addressed in the owner's manual. I am going off of the service interval reminder I get from the dealer. What does the timing chain do? How is it different from the serpentine belt?
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    As Bill noted your timing chain will likely outlive the car so you need not worry about it. The reference to replacement at 60K miles is for a timing belt not a timing chain. The chain is typically made of metal and the belt of rubberl so you can see why one would outlast the other.

    Tip: if you're still unsure call an independent garage and ask for their opinion about how to service your Mazda3.
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    What does the timing chain do?

    What does the timing belt do?

    I believe based on the last post I have had timing BELT failures in other vehicles, not timing CHAIN failures. I would appreciate a short description what each of these components does in the engine if anyone has time. :)
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Here is an excerpt from explaining timing chains. You may want to visit an auto store or your public library for a book on the topic.
    "... without a properly installed and adjusted timing chain ... the valves on your engine don’t open and close at the appropriate times. A sloppy timing chain can result in poor running, valve clatter, and loss of power ... signs that your timing chain may need replacement include loss of power and noise from the timing cover at the front of your engine. Unlike the timing belt crowd, you probably won’t destroy your engine by running with a worn out timing chain. "
  • dridedride Posts: 139
    Thanks for the info. Are you saying the Mazda 3 only has a timing chain and not a timing belt? I know the difference btwn a belt and a chain, but am unable to determine what the timing belt does. When the timing belt went out on my Honda, I experienced all of the symptoms in the last post. What does the timing belt that needs to be replaced at 60k miles do? I am doing research, but have not been able to get a definitive answer. Thanks for any insight offered.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    As an engine runs the pistons move up and down in the cylinders - the pistons transfer this force to the crank shaft - this turns the crank shaft - the crank shaft rotation is what ends up turning your wheels - by providing power to your tranny (but that is another story) the end of crank shaft also sticks out of the front part of the engine - if your engine has a timing chain it has a sprocket on the end of the crank shaft - as the sprocket turns it moves the timing chain - the timing chain then turns a sprocket that is hooked onto the cam shaft - as the cam shaft turns it makes the valves (both exhaust and intake) move up and down (opening and closing them).

    The timing chain provides the link between what position the exhaust and intake valves are in (open or closed) - in relation to the position of the piston (what stroke the piston is in). The timing of this link is critical to the operation of an engine. So I guess that is why its called a timing chain.

    In most car engines the piston moves up and down 2 times in each cycle - or make 4 STROKES - that is why they call it a 4 stroke engine. Stroke 1 has the piston moving down - with the intake valve open (fuel and air comes into the combustion chamber at this point) then the valve closes and the piston moves up compressing the air fuel mixture (stroke #2) - just at (really just before) the piston reaches top dead center (as far up as it can go before starting back down) the spark plug fires and causes the fuel and air to burn (its like a little explosion) this forces the piston down (stroke #3 - the power stroke) - then the exhaust valve opens and the movement of the piston back up (stroke #4) forces the exhaust gas out of the combustion chamber and eventually out your tail pipe. Then it starts all over again.

    If your engine has a timing belt it is the same thing - except instead of sprockets and a chain it has a pulleys and a belt.

    If your belt breaks then the valves stop moving and with some engines the piston can crash into them - causing major engine damage. Bent valve stems - broken pistons - damaged combustion chamber = you need a new engine or at least an expensive over haul.
  • :( For 14,000 miles and 2 years I have been getting only 13-14 city mpg on my automatic 2004 Mazda3 hatchback. Dealer has been useless in 6 visits. Any others have same problem and/or solutions?
  • :( 2004 Mazda3 Hatchback has had 7 flat front tires with the low profile 17 in rims, obviously NOT made for city driving. Any similar experiences or solutions? I bought a new tire today and got another flat tonight!
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