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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair



  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    By tweeking the toe in would the tires wear unevenly, or even cause premature wear?
  • coosamtncoosamtn Posts: 47
    Possibly, if you push it too far. You can bet, I'm going to be watching my tread wear closely. On the other hand, I'd gladly give up a few miles on the tires for MUCH better handleing. The amount of toe I added was not measurable between the treadwidth.
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr US Posts: 112
    Thanks for the reply. When I need to get my wheels aligned, i'll ask if they cold do this. We had some strong winds here couple days ago & it was hard to keep the car steady even driving slow.
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr US Posts: 112
    If you can, keep us posted on how your tires are wearing.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Many have reported loud road noise with the GoodYear RS-A tires. The RS-A's have good dry traction - and a very firm ride - but were scary on a wet road.

    The bad news is they get louder as the tread wears down. The "good" news is they don't last very long - I got 20K out of mine. I could have went a few thousand more - but my daughter was starting to drive the car more - so when I got the 3rd flat tire (same tire all 3 times) I went ahead and replaced them.

    I put on a set of Kumho ASX (215 50 17) - when I left Discount Tire with the Kumho's installed - I thought - WHAT is that strange noise coming from my engine - then I realized it was just the engine - I had so much tire noise before that I couldn't hear it!
  • Can anyone confirm if this are any problems / recalls on the '07 models as I am considering purchasing a Mazda3 5-door Hatchback Touring edition and want to check first with other owners.

    Also, are there any other recalls / problems prospective owners should know about on the '07's? Would you recommend the vehicle overall?

  • I have an '07 5 dr sport and have 9k miles on it so far and have had no problems and recomend it. particularily if you enjoy driving and like a car that handles well for the money.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 277
    No problems with noisy brakes?
  • I'm just went through the same situation as 'zurri', but at the 30,000 mile mark. I'm in Orlando, and the Classic Mazda quoted $400 for a 30,000 mile service. This includes replacing ALL the fluids in the vehicle, even though the owner's manual only states to replace the oil and 'inspect' the other fluids.

    I was suspicious after reading the owner's manual, and looking the maintenance schedule on

    I called Mazda USA and asked the customer rep, if we followed the manual, and didn't replace all the fluids, would it be detrimental to the car. He said he would follow the manual, and inspect the fluids; if they needed changing, change it. I told him about the $400 for the service, and he was surprised that they would automatically replace the fluids without checking to see if they needed it.

    He suggested calling other dealers and seeing what they offered. I called the 2 other dealerships in the Orlando area; one was exactly the same (I believe they are both owned by the same company), and the other was $325 for replacing all the fluids.

    I'm a believer of having the dealership do the service work while the vehicle is under warranty (just in case something goes wrong), but the cost of their minor service, and now the major service is getting out of hand.

    Now, you'd think that I would have gone with the $325 deal, but I didn't. Classic Mazda had a 10% off coupoon, they are a lot closer, AND the arranged for a rental for the day.

    I have to keep telling myself that I did the right thing, but in my gut, I feel like I was taken advantage of.

    I'm thinking that maybe every 60,000 have all the fluids changed, not every 30,000.

    I guess I'm looking for feedback from everyone telling me I did the right thing.

    As per Zurri's situation, I wouldn't pay the $3XX for the 15,000 mile service.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    Check out the Mazda cx7 forum here. Owners have had numerous CEL coming often . The engine is the 2.3 with turbo..
  • jgill2jgill2 Posts: 5
    I'd like to echo the request for info on adjusting the headlights on the Mazda3i (halogen, not xenon). The cut-off between light and dark is very severe, and mine were set too low, especially the low beams. The dealer raised both the lows and highs for free, but they overdid it. Now the low beams elicit flashes from on-coming drivers, and the highs illuminate the passing trees. I would take it back to the dealer, but it's 30 miles, and they don't have evening or Saturday hours. I'm willing to do it myself, but I don't know how. I asked Mazda Customer Service, but they told me to take it to a dealer. Of course. Can anybody point me to some instructions?
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    I know what you mean about the projector headlights. They are the absolute worst. On a dark road they are not even high enough to illumunate road signs on low beam :mad: A lot of vehicles are now going to this system. I suppose if it is a vehicle high off the road than it might not be a problem were as the M3 is low to the ground. Try another M3 forum, Google M3 forum, and look for Mazda3forum. There search headlights. I am sure there is a thread on how to adjust the headlights. A half inch up adjust was all that would have been needed.
  • jgill2jgill2 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the suggestion and your support. I have browsed 5 or 6 other forums and come up empty. Either there is nothing on the subject or I'm prevented from searching because I'm not a registered user. I'm not willing to deal with all the spam that results from joining a half-dozen boards, but I'll keep ;ooking.

    Doesn't anybody out there have a service manual that describes how to raise and lower the headlights? This should be a no-brainer process, almost as simple as checking the oil, but it seems to be a big secret. From me, at least.
  • coosamtncoosamtn Posts: 47
    Try this web site. It's a bootleg copy of the Mazda 3 Shop Manual.

    The adjusters are under the little round white plastic covers behind the light assembly. The covers pop right off and the adjuster is simply a #2 crosspoint screwhead. You'll need a little cheap stubby screwdriver, the one with the short bend in each end where one end is a #2 crosspoint and the other end is a flat blade. There are two adjusters for each light, one is up/down and the other is left/right.

    I parked my car in the garage about 10 feet from the garage door, let the door down and turned on the low beams. Before I made any adjustments, I took masking tape a taped it on the garage door right at the top edge of the light pattern as a reference point. A little goes a long way, so don't raise it much. You will definetly like the results
  • jgill2jgill2 Posts: 5
    Many thanks, coosamtn. That's just what I needed.
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Had a problem at the dealership today that sold me this policy. They tried to get out of paying for the 1st radiator flush. They ended up eating the cost but am going to meet with the general manager once he calls us back. I'm so pissed at Mazda I could scream. Feel like they lied to us. More to come!

    The Sandman :mad:
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Mazda tried to renig on this policy that they sold us today with the radiator flush. They ended up having to eat it and now we're waiting for the general manager to call us back to straighten this out. Feel we were lied to and it don't feel good!

    The Sandman :mad:
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Was that thru Mazda or the dealership though? No reason to get mad at the car company for something the dealership is doing.
  • m3fan3m3fan3 Posts: 27
    hi! does anyone know anything about Triangle tires performance series. planning on putting up new tires and im just wondering if anyone has ever heard of them cause i havent and i am bit worried if i get tires that ive never heard of.
  • mrblonde49mrblonde49 Posts: 626
    Had a problem at the dealership today that sold me this policy. They tried to get out of paying for the 1st radiator flush. They ended up eating the cost but am going to meet with the general manager once he calls us back. I'm so pissed at Mazda I could scream. Feel like they lied to us. More to come!

    The Sandman "

    You should be pissed at Mazda xxxx dealership. Every brand has good one, and not so good ones.....
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr US Posts: 112
    yes this is a dumb question but just wanted to make sure... My very first oil change should be at around 4000 mi right? I was told to follow maintenance sched 2. But I was also told that oil changes should be every 3000 (my protege was every 3000). And I had my car about 2 mo, & have 2400 miles & got a letter from the serv mgr that I should be scheduling my oil change soon.
  • mazdabadmazdabad Posts: 3
    ok i have this issue w/my '06 3s automatic sedan. when sitting at a light my car will lurch forward while my foot is on the brake. it feels like someone has slowly rolled into the back of my car. it's not a violent move, but my car does move. 2k miles ago mazda flashed my transmission(they think that is the cause). i have almost 20k miles on the car now and have already had my brakes replaced at 18k miles due to them wearing out prematurely on the rear. so i'm guessing it's not the brakes causing the issue but something else? also, i get a lot of popping noises from the back of the car. any ideas on that? lastly, one mazda dealer told me to get my transmission flushed at 20k, 2 others said it shouldn't have to be done before 30k. which is correct?
  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    He spoke to the wife and wants to see our paperwork. He told her he'd sign off on whatever it says, so hopefully this will straighten out this problem.
    We also had our rear pads replaced at 12k and everything replaced at 24k, pads and rotors. Now we get the heavy brake dust back there, but that horrible noise is gone. They told us yesterday that we'd just have to live with the excessive brake dust on the rear axle. Any comments on this?
    As long as he signs off on our complete policy, we'll have a oil change/rotation & tranny service at 30k miles.
    Wish us luck!

    The Sandman :)
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    First of all - it sounds to me like you should be using schedule 1 not schedule 2. But that is just based on the fact you drive 1,200 miles a month - look in the owners manual -

    Do you make MANY short distance trips? So your engine does not get run long enough to become full warmed up - 2 miles and then stop - let the car sit for a hour or more - then another short trip.

    Drive where its dusty (like on a gravel road?
    Spend EXTENDED periods idling or at very slow speeds? plus there are a few others. If you say NO to all of these - then schedule 1 is where you should be - the guy telling you to use schedule 2 is trying to cheat you.

    Also just because the Mazda dealer sends you a notice that does not mean you need to run in there and get the service done.

    Many people like to get the first oil change before it is technically required - so maybe the first one at 4,000 is not such a bad idea.

    But after that I would go 6 months or 7,500 miles WHICH ever comes FIRST. This is what it takes to keep your warranty coverage - 3,000 miles is a complete waste - and for you would mean an oil change every 2 1/2 months.

    BTW - I have a 2004 Mazda3 - I don't know if the maintenance schedule has changes - mine is 4 month 4,000 for schedule 2 and 6 months 7,500 miles for schedule 1.
  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 277
    I find it odd that the manual says that Canada and Puerto Rico residents should follow Schedule 2- every 4 mths. Being close to the US border, that really seems odd because if one goes by the "book" one should use Schedule 1 (every 6 mths)if you live in the USA. I don't see any difference between the two countries if one is in the northern regions.
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr US Posts: 112
    Thanks for the reply! I don't make sort distance trips. I use my car most going to work; Its a little stop & go on a busy main street until I reach the freeway then its about 12 miles on the freeway. Traffic on the freeways get bad (but nothing like California yet).
  • mazdrvrmazdrvr US Posts: 112
    I'm in the U.S. I'm going to go read the manual again to make sure. I thought I would truat the dealership when they told me to follow sched. 2. (Not sure if it makes a difference being in the desert/Southwest).
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Dealerships get paid to do things to your car -

    They get paid the same to do an oil change - if your car needs one - as they do if it does not.

    Many dealerships "fudge" a little on oil changes - tell you to change every 3,000 miles - or to use the severe schedule. Hard to find a 100% honest one - they can always say - We just want to help you make sure you take care of the car so it lasts a long time - or does not breakdown.

    This next part is just my GUT feeling - so take it or leave it - I am just trying to help.

    The oil change at the dealership will be around $25 - (between $20 - $30 at most places) - it will not HURT you too bad if you pay for an extra oil change every year -

    Where you really need to be careful is when the dealership tells you that you need a 15,000 mile service - they will package a bunch of stuff together - oil change - tire rotation + balance - INSPECT brakes - CHECK front end alignment - INSPECT belts + hoses - CHECK CHECK INSPECT INSPECT - all for ONLY $295!!

    This is where you really need to just say NO THANKS - use the owners manual - just do what it says to do - when it says to do it. 99% of the time this will save you money. If you think something is not right - like the car always wants to pull to the right when you stop - then have them check this out - but if every thing seems to be running like normal - then just do what the owners manual says.

    It gets MUCH more expensive at the 30,000 miles service - it will be the same basic stuff they did at 15,000 plus an air filter - maybe they will want to replace your radiator fluid or transmission fluid - I have see dealers ask for $595 - and the 60,000 mile service will drain your bank account.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    it will not HURT ... if you pay for an extra oil change every year

    if every thing seems to be running like normal - then just do what the owners manual says
    Agreed but with a caveat. The manufacturer requires that you follow their recommendations found in the manual. That's the minimum. If your garage identifies a problem area to have serviced, you can decide against the service but I would recommend that you at least monitor the area and look for additional advice/information. For example, many cars with four wheel disc brakes have issues with the brakes seizing and wearing down the pads and rotors. My dealership recommended a brake lubrication service which I passed since my brakes seemed to be fine. After hearing about the issue on the Edmunds forum I opted later to do the service as preventative maintenance; the result: my brakes at 50K miles continue to be fine. In other words, listen, learn and use your judgement. :)
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I don't know what a brake LUBRICATION is - sounds like a scam - What & how much is it?

    Its been years since I replaced pads / turned rotors myself - but the only thing I can ever recall putting lube on is on the back side the brake pad - right where the caliper piston pushes into the metal backing on the pad - and maybe on some anti-rattle retainer thingy - this doesn't do anything to extend the life of your brake pads or rotors.

    If you pay someone to take this much of the brake system apart - you might as well just replace the darn brake pads while you are in there.
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