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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair



  • my advice to you is report the car as a "Lemon". I did with mine. Good Luck =)
  • CAN!!! anyone help me i've taken my car IN recently to mazada dealership...for a 30,000 mile checkup....everything was fine.... until the engine light is on and now they are telling me its the o2 sensor and a valve cleaning needs to be done...i just took my car to them on sept 1,2009..and now they are telling me its going to cost 660.00$ to fix this new issue...and i'm asking my self how can my car be running perfectly until...i brought to you guys...and now this is going on...they only gave me a sorry reason..."things like this can just happen"
    so can anyone give advice because i feel i am being scam/hoodwink...???
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    now the engine light is on and now they are telling me its the o2 sensor and a valve cleaning needs to be done...i feel i am being scam/hoodwink...???
    Sorry to hear that. Why not get a second opinion about the cause of the check engine light from an independent garage? The car is almost 6 years old, so a faulty O2 sensor is possible. You mention "valve cleaning", did you mean a fuel system cleaning? If so, I'd recommend having the fuel system cleaned if you have not had that done since 2004.
  • nsbio1nsbio1 Posts: 75
    Guess what - my rotors that had been resurfaced earlier this year are warped again! I am not driving the car super hard: I also drive my wife's corolla and the rotors there are just fine. Seems like my car's rotors are junk, but the dealer won't fix that for free because it is almost impossible to prove that rotor warping is not because of abuse...
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Please understand that when you have old rotors resurfaced, you are having a significant amount of metal removed from the rotors, and that makes them more susceptible to warping. That is the single reason why I NEVER have rotors resurfaced, they're cheap to buy (even top quality units should be less than $50 each), and easy to replace.

    Best regards,
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    old rotors resurfaced... makes them more susceptible to warping ... I NEVER have rotors resurfaced, they're cheap to buy
    Agreed on both fronts: 1) resurfacing is only a stop-gap before the inevitable and 2) the cost of rotors has dropped significantly over the years.
  • sawolfsawolf Posts: 1
    Would like to get recommendations for what services I should get for my Mazda that just hit 50,000 miles. It still runs great although it isnt whisper quiet anymore. Thanks
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Does your Owner's Manual spell out any special services for the 50,000 mile mark? If not then there's nothing you need to have done, errr, that is unless you've skipped some of the service events that were perscribed by Mazda for the pre-50,000 mile threshold.

    Best regards,
  • I had the same noise on mine diagnosed this week as a bad throtle butterfly. They took 3 weeks to figure it out and I still can't believe that's what it was; I was convinced the engine was about to throw a rod. at any rate, it was covered under warranty.
  • Hi light is on car is running fine what could it be? I just bought car and had it checked out by garage had to get a new battery and smog check but that is it. I am now freaking out! help :shades:
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Have you tried Edmunds?
    Go to Used Cars > Tips and Advice > Maintenance and you'll find recommended a schedule of maintenance that is quite useful.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 9,465
    Hi light is on car is running fine what could it be?

    I could be any number of things; it's pointless to guess. Take it to Autozone and they will read the fault code(s) for you free of charge.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2004 X3 2.5i Son's: 2009 328i

  • My daughter owns a 2008 Mazda 3 Hatchback that she purchased new. It now has about 10,000 miles, mostly accumulated by driving to and from school where she teaches.

    When she was having the oil changed at a "Quick Stop" Mobil 1 shop, the mechanic informed her that her transmission fluid was dirty and should be changed (flushed?) at a cost of $99. This seems far too early and, if true, seems that it would indicate a transmission problem. With this in mind, I'm wondering if it would make sense to take it to the Mazda dealer to be checked out. Since the dealer is about 30 miles away, I don't want to do this unless it's truly warrented.

    I'd really appreciate your thoughts.

    Thank you!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Assuming there is no sign of any problems with the functioning of the trans, If it were me, I'd maybe go to the dealer for the next oil change and mention what the quickie lube place had said. Assuming the dealer tells her everything is fine, I'd find some other alternative for future oil changes, if the dealer is too inconvenient. She has a long time to go on the 5 year power train warranty, so there does not seem to be too much to worry about.

    I think the quickie place asking you if you want a transmission fluid flush is like McDonald's asking "do you want fries with that?".

    Also, doesn't mazda use a "lifetime" synthetic trans fluid that would cost a lot more than $99, just for the correct fluid?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 9,465
    I'd stay FAR away from the "Kwicky Boob" shops. Find a good independent shop if you don't have a decent dealer.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2004 X3 2.5i Son's: 2009 328i

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    I think the quickie place asking you if you want a transmission fluid flush is like McDonald's asking "do you want fries with that?"
    Agreed, that's what it sounds like to me. Roadburner is right also to suggest that you find a local garage/shop that you trust if you don't plan to go to the dealership for regular maintenance.
  • tomicatomica Posts: 23
    My Mazda dealer tries the same thing. I always decline,
  • i have a 2004 Mazda3 with 40000 miles on it. was driving home stoped at a light. started out then a noise started sounded like a baseball card in the spokes of a bike. it sounds like the noise is coming from the top pulley witch looks to be a fixed pulley. dose anyone know more about this thank you for any help.
  • My CEL came on yesterday while I was driving without any performance issues with the drivability of the car. If the light wasnt on, you wouldnt think anything was wrong. Being hypersensitive about being stranded on the side of the road, I went to Autozone to see what code they would pick up: P2187-Fuel system too lean at idle - right bank probable cause. What does that mean? Does that mean a hose has a leak somewhere? For the past year or even longer, when I am not accelerating there is a high pitch scream - which very well could be air escaping out of a tiny hole. I had took it to the dealership some time ago to get the high pitch noise diagnosed. They said I had a baring going out in my alternator, however it has always held a charge & the noise is on the right side - closer to what this print out says, as generic as it is. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions on fixing it? Id like to fix it myself rather than a dealer if its nothing huge.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    P2187-Fuel system too lean at idle - right bank probable cause. What does that mean? Does that mean a hose has a leak somewhere?

    TIP: Google it! Type in OBD (On-Board Diagnostic) and then the code, example OBD P2187.

    This is one of the answers about this condition which sounds reasonable to me: "lean idle condition in your bank 1 o2 sensor stream. The most common cause of this is a bad purge solenoid valve. This is emissions related and can cause poor fuel economy and lead to other problems down the road. You should have the valve replaced and get the code cleared." Here's another: "The too lean condition can be caused by any number of air leak locations after the MAF sensor."
    Before replacing all sorts of parts, I'd have my mechanic narrow down the cause.
  • I bought a Mazda 3 2010 S this summer, and the dealership recommends oil change every 3500 miles, and medium maintenance every 7500 miles (which cost more than $200). Now, it is time for scheduled the medium maintenance, I called them, besides oil change, there are many CHECKs :mad: , it is crazy.

    I am wondering, if the new Mazda 3 need this kind maintenance, (from the manual, seems not), and if it is good to do service in other place than Mazda dealers? Such as a Honda dealer or Jiff Lube....?

  • Mars,
    Your dealer is ripping you off. Read your Mazda manual and just follow it My dealer never recommend all these other type of maintenance. and I believe the oil change is 7,500 miles according to the manual. I purchased mine in March, and I have had two oil changes and one tire rotation, all covered in the first year maintenance free.
    They have something like 13 point inspection, or whatever, but that usually is part of the oil change package. You can do that at Valvoline for oil change, they are just as good as dealers.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I prefer to use the dealer during the warranty period, just to avoid any possibility of problems with warranty coverage of problems. However, I just follow the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.
  • THANKS guys, I will follow your suggestion, use dealer and following the manual. :)

    BTW, the dealership is Ourisman at Laural MD. I think they are trying to sale car cheap, and try to get back from service.

    Happy holidays!
  • cbuicbui Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    I make long driving trips frequently and when I stay at a constant high speed (roughly 80-85 mph) on an open highway, everything works and sounds fine. But when I accelerate to pass a car/truck, my car starts to make a very high pitched noise, almost like a screeching/rubbing sound. It doesn't happen every time I hit a high speed, but I do hear it every so often.

    Any ideas to what the issue is? What can I do to solve it?

    Thanks for the feedback!
  • I had a very similar situation on a car a while back, it would make a similar noise when I would jump up to a higher speed, almost like a reed effect (think of a wood reed on a clarinet and the vibration). Turns out my problem was a bad seal at a certain spot on my windshield, right in the middle by the defrost vent. I could not feel air or anything, the leak was so small that when air was forced in at higher speeds I would get this reed effect, the fix was to reseal the wind shield. Have you checked your belt and pulleys? possible you could be hearing one of those two, but I would think you would hear those at lower speeds as well...
  • Happy New Year. I have not posted in a while.

    I have a 2008 Mazda 3 Hatchback automatic. The 3 is running great but I'm having a problem with the interior center console lights dimming and flickering. Specifically the lights that are dimming and flickering is the display that shows the time, radio station, temp, and also the lights that surround the power, tuning and audio control knobs. I can't remember when it started to do this. It does this year round. The lights on the dash, RPM, MPH, etc. are fine. Any ideas or has anyone else had this problem.

  • cbuicbui Posts: 3
    I haven't checked my belt or pulleys yet, but I should probably see to it soon. Thanks for the suggestion!
  • saaksaak Posts: 9
    Hello Guskim,

    Wow, I am replying to your message from 6 years ago! I purchased a 2010 Mazda3 i touring this past November, and love the car -- except for the annoying amount of noise the power steering motor creates. It is the noisiest power steering on any car I have ever driven. The high-pitched whine is noticeable when the car is idling or in first gear. It disappears when shifted to "park," after the parking brake has been applied. I know this whining sound is "normal" for the Mazda3 because I had a brand new "loaner" for a whole day, and it exhibited the exact same whine. I am surprised that more owners have not complained about this over the years, and that Mazda has not eliminated the noise or at least reduced it significantly. I wonder if it is possible for the dealer to disconnect the power steering altogether -- my arms and shoulders could use some toning up! In any case, I would appreciate others sharing their reactions.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 9,465
    I would appreciate others sharing their reactions.

    In the future you should test drive your next car before you buy it.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2004 X3 2.5i Son's: 2009 328i

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