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Toyota Tacoma 2005+



  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    The 1st switch is for my PIAA off-road lamps which are mounted on my Bull Bar. The 2nd switch is for my under-cab backup lights. And the 3rd switch is a manual shut-off for my electric radiator cooling fan, in case I go through mud or deep water.

    Check my CarDomain for pics and info.

    Image Hosted by
    I got the switches here

    And here's an extra pic just to show off my new battery and wiring. I'm in the process of adding a monster sound system, so I've beefed up the electrical system. Bigger charging and grounding cables.
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  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Set up your CarSpace albums (same login as the Forums), and your pics are available through the CarSpace link in your profile :)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ed95682ed95682 Posts: 7
    It's been some time since this last post, but I'm in the process of replacing my front speakers with the Kappa 693.7i on my '06 double cab.
    I plan on replacing the Head with an Alpine(cda-9857) unit, but haven't purchased that as of yet. I wasn't planning on an Amp nor subwoofers.
    The speakers are out and the new ones are ready to be installed, but....I'm not sure has to how the wiring takes place?
    The 693.7i, have an "in-line crossover". Do you use the existing speaker wire coming through the door and connecting it to the "crossover" or do you run new speaker wire?
    Where does the "crossover" get installed? In the door? And if so, should you be concerned with moisture getting into the crossover?
    If you use the existing speaker wire, do you disconnect and remove the factory tweeter?

    Sure could use the help...Thanks, Ed
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    There is no other crossover in the circuit. You can tap into the speaker wires behind the kick panels. I would put the crossover behind the kick panels or ou in the dash. But if you mount the crossover in the cab you'll need to run a new set of wires to the tweeter. You could mount the crossover on the door panel, but DON'T put the crossover inside the door skins, where the window glass is. It will get wet. If you have a coaxial set of speakers you can keep the

    If you're installing a new tweeter off of your crossover then you will need to run wires from your crossover directly to the tweeter. The factory just has the tweeter wired in paralled with the woofer. Behind the door panel they have the joint all taped up. Just cut the tape off and you'll see which wires go where.

    Here's the wire colors.

    Front left + is a pink wire
    Front left - is purple
    Front right + is light
    front right - is blue

    Rear left + is black
    Rear left - is yellow
    Right rear + is red
    Right rear - is white
  • bigandybigandy Posts: 70
    How the hell do you keep that thing so clean? Do you ever drive it?

    Mine is home to a lot of miscellaneous but important extras, tucked in the back. Also have to have room for 110 pounds of Bernese Mountain Dog, who tends to leave a cloud of mostly black hair in his wake.

    I'm envious of yours. Not even sure mine looked that good the day I picked it up.
  • ed95682ed95682 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info. The crossover I was referring to was the ones supplied with the new Kappa speakers. Your info was very helpful. I think I have a handle on it now. Thanks,
  • gaeaglefangaeaglefan Posts: 4
    I was exiting Robert's BBQ (World's greatest onion rings) in North Charlston this weekend in my Auto 06 DC TRD Sport and the entrance to the highway is on a steep incline. While waiting to merge into trafic my tuck started drifting backwards down the incline (while in Drive). Is this normal? I have lived most of my life in the Low Country so have not had to deal with many inclines.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    It's got 13k miles on it. I wash it 2 or 3 times a week, and polish/wax once a month. I'm a semi-professional car detailer. I don't do it full time, but I do detail cars.

    Keeping the interior clean is easy if you don't let it get too messy. To keep it clean I mostly use a dry towel for dusting and boars hair brush for getting dust out of the little nooks and crannies. I use 303 Aerospace protectant on the vinyl, plastic, and leather surfaces. It's a light protectant that adds a lot of protection and just a tiny bit of shine, which is how I like it.

    Here's a good thread on how to care for your truck.
  • pathfinderpathfinder Posts: 7
    Well, I went ahead and ordered one, even without y'all's advice and counsel. Will probably get deployed before I can even install it, so it'll be waiting for me when I get back. Even the guy at my speed shop did not know whether or not it could be threaded onto the shifter or if it had some cheap nylon bushing that would eventually loosen up (probably during a high speed run in the bush)...">
  • newtrucknewtruck Posts: 5
    I have an 05 truck, as basic as they come with auto trans, 4 cyl. base cab. Fits my needs well. This past weekend I had a 600 mile trip planned and decided to test mpg by holding the speed to w/in 3-4 miles of posted limits, used cruise control, dropped the tail gate lid, used AC as needed. Checking the mileage 3 times I got 26.5 mpg even the first two fillups, and 27.3 on the third. Part of the trip was mountain driving in western part of NC. The third fillup was after driving on state roads 55mph for about a third of the distance. I've gotten as high as 29 mpg on some 55mph backroads in the past. I only have about 2300 miles on it since it's a #2 vehicle for me.
  • slabanumslabanum Posts: 18
    How long did it take before the floor liners came from Their website says 3-5 weeks, that's awfully a long time.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    Actually, I got mine from In the checkout, enter AUTOPIA in the discount code box for 10% off. With shipping, the front and rears were about $157. AutoGeek drop ships from the manufacturer, with floormat orders. They arrived here in less than a week after placing the order. I looked up the part number from the website and entered it into the Notes box when I placed my order, just to make sure they were sending the right ones. Everything went perfect. I love the Weathertech floor liners.
  • jpr_71jpr_71 Posts: 10
    I have an '05 indigo blue truck with LOTS of paint chips on the lower rockers and lower rear fender wells. I do have front and rear mud flaps, but no running boards. With only 10K miles, the damage to the paint is completely unacceptable....this truck has been babied and driven on pavement 99% of the time with no off-roading and no gravel roads. I have to take it to the dealer and see what they'll do. And, I don't think that a reasonable answer is to just add running boards. I had a lot of trucks over the years and hadn't seen chipping like this until the vehicle was really old or really abused. If I had to guess, I would say that Toyota is using a different formula paint or a softer clearcoat that chips easily. Has anyone noticed that Toyota added more protection on the '06 models? Take a look at one and you'll see what I mean.
  • geogeckogeogecko Posts: 225
    Those are some nice switches. I'm checking out your ride at cardomains. Very nice.

    Oh, how did you pull the TRD stickers off the sides of the bed? I'm thinking about doing it, but haven't decided yet. I'm also hoping that after a year and 4 months, I won't have paint fading...
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471

    I used a heat gun to take off the decals. Just warm it up and then pick at the corner and just pull it off. It left some sticky stuff behind, so I used Goo Gone to clean it up, and then polished and waxed. Be sure to use Goo Gone, not Goof Off. Goof Off is too strong of a chemical to use on your paint. To remove the emblems use a fishing line behind the emblem and saw it back and forth to cut through the foam adhesive.

    You won't have any fading. I just took the last remaining emblems off of my tailgate. My truck is over a year old. There wasn't any fading on the tailgate behind the emblems. My truck is completely shaved now. ha ha

    Here she is from the front. I'll post some more pics after the lift and tires go on in a week or so.

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  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    I'll just take a moment to complement your photos. Aside from the very nicely done subject truck, your photos are always clear, well lit, and nicely color balanced.

    As the world's worst photographer, I tip my hat! :shades:
  • geogeckogeogecko Posts: 225
    So I assume a hair dryer would work well enough for the "heat gun?"

    What lift are you getting? Are you using the stock wheels, or changing those out?

    I like the Donahoe Racing kits (although slightly expensive), mainly, because they use all stock mounting points. I'd also like to use the original 17" wheels, but finding tires in stock is somewhat difficult, but nothing that Discount Tire cannot order. I just wonder if I would have to use wheel spacers so that I would not get rubbing...

    I like your front grill too, I went with the Lund Screenfront, with the black plastic. I think it looks pretty good.
  • az comaaz coma Posts: 19
    My '05 DC 4x4 sport w 4.0 V6 and 6 speed has this awful sound that appears to be coming from the clutch throw out bearing. It'll go away when I depress the clutch fully and is only apparent when the truck is cold. After driving it for awhile, it goes away. Anybody else with a 6 speed having similar issues with their clutches? Oh, the truck only has 10k miles and has been making this noise since almost new. Of course the dealer can't hear it because the truck is fully warmed by the time I get it there. :mad:
  • geo22geo22 Posts: 5
    Requesting Tacoma owner advise/experience....
    I am considering purchasing the Tacoma 4x4 TDR Sport w/ long bed and 4.0L V-6... and i'm curious about it's real "truck" abilities.
    I presently own a Dodge RAM 1500 short box w/ the V-8 318.
    I realize the two trucks can't be compared in the same class, but I drove the Tacoma and really like it. My only concern is that 10% of the time that I may miss the "big truck" abilities.
    I have a boat (cabin cruiser, 23 foot SeaRay w/ 350 v-8) weighing approx. 7000 pounds, but i only drive 10-15 miles with it four times per year (out of storage, into the lake, out of the lake, and back into storage). If I traveled more with the boat i definitely would be looking for something larger than the Tacoma.
    The max. tow rating on the tacoma is 6500 lb... think it can handle the above mentioned?????
  • wooddorkerwooddorker Posts: 300
    "The max. tow rating on the tacoma is 6500 lb... think it can handle the above mentioned?????Thanks"

    I tow with mine all the time and I probably wouldn't do that.

    I'd probably rent something (an empty Ryder or U-Haul 14-16 footer would do well) or pay a boat yard to move it, if that's the only time I needed the bigger truck. Otherwise, I'd just keep the Dodge.
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    I'm getting Donahoe coil overs, Total Chaos Upper Control Arms, Donahoe's new rear reservoir shocks, and Alcan rear AAL.

    For wheels I ordered a pair of 17" Boze Forged wheels. Model: Stinger 6 with charcoal powdercoated spokes, and polished lip.

    For tires I got GoodYear Wrangler Silent Armor 275/70/17

    The wheels should be here in about a week. I'm ordering the suspension tomorrow (Friday) morning.
  • newtoy06newtoy06 Posts: 2
    Anyone know how to make the hood scoop on a '06 Tac function?
  • geo22geo22 Posts: 5
    The hood scoop is simply appearance....
    Cars with carb's and air breathers that can't fit under the hood have real scoops. Cooling is accomplished through the front grill/radiator.
    If you really wanted to, the hood could probably be removed and the front of the air scoop cut out leaving just a grill to cover the opening.... but then when it rains you need to realize that water will get into the engine compartment!
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    The max. tow rating on the tacoma is 6500 lb... think it can handle the above mentioned?????

    When the companies rate their trucks for towing, they go out on the road, up and down hills, across hot lakebeds, stuff like that. They see how much weight they can carry without overheating or other problems. I don't think you will have any problem driving a short distance as long as you are not going up steep hills and as long as you have good trailer brakes (not surge brakes, cause they do you no good backing down the ramp).
  • geogeckogeogecko Posts: 225
    That is going to be awesome. I like those wheels. What lip size did you go with on those?

    The tires should be pretty good, not too knobby, not to streetish, good for off-road, and quiet for highway driving.

    Are you doing the installation yourself, or having a shop do it? If you are having a shop do it, how did you pick one?

    Please put some pictures up when you get it finished. That thing is going to be like the Stealth B2!
  • geo22geo22 Posts: 5
    Anyone have the factory upgraded performance exhaust?
    Sure it does probably add a nice sound, but is there much of a horse power gain (if so any idea how much)? :confuse:
    I was thinking to add that and replace the air breather with a K&N (two of the simplest things to increase horsepower - increase air intake and exhaust).
    Hoping that with increased horsepower the peak torque may also increase a little for towing purposes. :mad:
  • geo22geo22 Posts: 5
    Happened to notice another members comment/question (see below), but did not receive an explanation why....
    Anyone know why?? it seems as though this would be a desirable option especially if close to (or over) the max. tow rating... Possibly not recommended because it may result in the owner deciding to tow even more weight...?

    does anyone know why the owners book says they (TOY) recommend NOT using a weight distribution hitch set up with the this truck. The dealer stumbled on this question?
  • geogeckogeogecko Posts: 225
    Oh, is that Westin bull bar a direct bolt on, or is some modifications needed? Do you have to remove the factory engine skid plate (not the front, but engine)?

    I have been noticing a very high pitched, almost beeping, noise inside the cab when doing about 80MPH, and having a heavy head wind, or slight cross wind. I added the Lund Screen front, thinking it was probably something in front of the radiator. That did not fix the problem, nor change the behavior of the sound. Now I noticed today, that the engine skid plate has some little side scoops that hang down below the engine, where air could possibly catch them, and make them vibrate. The drivers side seemed like it hung down more, so I bent it up to match the passenger side. I was wondering if the front skid plate covers this part up, on the engine skid plate, and secondly, does the front skid plate replace or over lap, the engine skid plate?

    I used a hair dryer to remove my TuRD stickers this afternoon, then Goof Gone to get the sticky stuff off. Worked great. I also removed the Toyota badge above the Tacoma badge on the tailgate.

    Add to that, I also added the DynoLock electric tailgate lock. Well, almost. I've got the tailgate part done, just got to run the wires up from the gate to the cab, and I'll be done.

    I'm getting ready to wash her now, once things cool down a bit...
  • pb2themaxpb2themax Posts: 471
    The bull bar just bolts on. You don't have to remove the skid plate or the tow hooks. It bolts underneath 4 of the 8 bolts that hold the bumper mounts to the frame. It will work with the stock skid plate. But I'm pretty sure that it won't work with the optional TRD skid plate. Here's a picture of a truck with the TRD skid plate.

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  • geogeckogeogecko Posts: 225
    Thanks PB. I think I may go with the Westin BB, off eBay. By the time I paid for and shipped an optional TRD skid plate, I could almost get the Westin. It looks better too, IMO.

    Will have to order one when I get back from being out of town.

    Thanks for the tips.
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