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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair



  • I might just buy the replacement dash and get the dealer to install it and remove the old one.
  • tunetune Posts: 5
    thanks for your help
  • Some automatics may have a torque converter clutch that disengages at closed throttle and re-engages off idle(light throttle)and also disengages at hard throttle. It may feel like up&down shifting, or the computer is sensing closed throttle at high enough r.p.m. and shutting down fuel injection until vacuum/r.p.m. drops, or throttle is reapplied. I get that on my "96" 4X4 5spd manjuel, since changing the plug wires (hardly touch the gas now).I can live with it.
  • The distributor may have got bumped. Is "96" different?
    If not then the crank sensor gives a pulse for each cyl. The dist. tells it when it is #1. First check the dist. position by sighting straight down the rotor "contact" to the dist. housing. Crankshaft must be at "Top Dead Center Compression" on #1 cyl! The rotor should point to a mark on the housing. This is the ballpark position. I had the code after this step. I had to try turning the dist. housing a degree at a time, clear the code, start the engine, and see if the code returned. It may take a few attempts. It took me three tries. I got lucky. Good Luck.
  • tunetune Posts: 5
    I need to get a new alternator but i don't know how many amps the alternator must have.....i have a 1986 chevrolet silverado w/ a 305.....a couple of alternators i saw had 80-120 amps and others were 63 i opt for the alternator with the most amps or what?
  • anyone know a website or place i could a find a flush mount paintable tonneau cover?
  • I saved $174 (for a new headliner piece) for my '86 Silverado pickup by removing the trim pieces holding the headliner, removing the whole headliner unit and regluing the fabric onto the molded fibre piece it was originally attached to. There is spray glue available for that purpose at an auto supply store. Let the glue dry for a couple of minutes before you lay the fabric back in place. When you re-attach the trim pieces it is difficult to get the holes lined up so it is a lot easier if you hold the piece in position and use a long thin nail to locate the hole in the truck itself and line the holes up before you insert the screw. If the fibreboard is coming apart after you take it down you will need to just order a new headliner unit from a parts supplier. The new ones come on an ABS plastic panel covered with the fabric or vinyl headliner.
  • A few days after I put the headliner back in it started sagging again. I bought some new and different headliner spray glue and tried again. I left the unit in a bedroom fabric down and will see if it starts to sag again. So far so good but I'll leave it for a week or so. If it sags this time, I'll seal the fibreboard with lacquer and try again. If it doesn't work I'll scrub the whole project and buy a new unit. It is a pain to put it in and out of the truck so I'll let it sag elsewhere for awhile if it is going to. Any good ideas out there?
  • I have replaced the electric fuel pump(in tank) and now have no electrical power to pump. Both the old and new pump seem fine,(hooked up to different source) The 20 amp fuse on firewall is good. Where do I look next?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    Check the wiring with a multimeter down the length of the circuit, as it looks like you have a broken loop. If you have power at the fuse, then it has to be somewhere between there and the pump. Also check the ground wire from the pump to make sure it did not come loose or break (I am not sure where the in-tank pumps are grounded, but my guess would be on the frame and near the tank).
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Thanks for your advice. Turns out the problem was an electrical "short" between the inside and outside of the tank connectors..... the inside connector was charred and not allowing the 12 volts through to the pump. The old pump is probably still good. I am so please to be writing this reply from my computer and not from the morgue......
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I am so please to be writing this reply from my computer and not from the morgue......

    Hahha! No kidding! Perhaps somewhat unrelated, but a couple years back a coworker's 1999 Silverado burned to a crisp when its fuel tank caught fire due to an electrical short in the fuel pump. She had started it with an autostart, so there were no occupants when it ignited, but the back seat area where her daughter always sat was naught but char. :surprise: She replaced it with a 2002 GMC Sierra, so I hope that is not a common problem!
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • i have a 95 c1500 with 4 head found a 97 with two head lights need to know if it will work.and need to know where to go to find out how to hook up the wiring harness because there different thanks
  • Taking the padded dash off is a snap on my '86 Silverado. You have screws at the bottom of the dash and the screws for the silver plate over the instrument cluster also screw into the padded dash. Anyway it comes off easily. What I've done is filled the cracks with vinyl spackle and sprayed the dash with the proper color vinyl dye (obtained from Classic Parts -formerly Chevy Duty). Isn't perfect but it looks a lot better and saves $300 over buying a new dash.
  • thanks for the advice.the problem was i had installed boshch spark plugs.thought they would be better plugs.but i guess they dont work in the process of figuring out this nightmare,I cracked the distributor because of those easy to reach well designed distibutor cap mounting now instead of just replacing the spark plugs i need a distributor after removing the cap about 50 times to figure out what was going on.also have a broken door buzzer circut,because of those heavy duty switches chevy put where the door u r right it is the distributor but the first problem was as simple as the wrong just screws up the whole vehicle.never guessed it cause they were new.runs good now.light goes out if the cap doesnt with it for now,till i have an extra 500 for the distributor.exspensive plastic.I love vehicles. :)
  • I have a 89' Chevy c/1500, with a 4brl. carbed V8. Someone all the springs off! Where can I find a good diagram of the carborator to put new ones on? Thanks.
  • yes this is the limp home mode. the 2 trucks I've had do this needed fuel pumps..... :( one needed a pressure reg. as well
  • most auto parts stores around here you can get a pressure tester to see if your fuel pump is putting out the right amount of fuel. before you take everything apart.
  • had this problem a few years back on a 92. it was the brake line.. the brake line has an inner and outer wall if the inner wall is broke you cant see it but when you hit the brake it keeps the line closed 'so it lockes it up'
  • pull the brake light switch off of the mount that its on get some one to look at your lights as you slide the switch from on side to the other. if the lights go off then you need to remount the switch and ajust it to work with the brake peddel.. if it doesnt work then replace the switch and try again..
  • if you go into an autozone they have them cheap... 350.00 here
  • are you trying to change your 4 head light system to a 2 ? if you are we need to know if your 4 are Sealed head lights or are they composites? if they are not composite then you will have to replace your radiator support to go from a 4 to a 2 light system. along with grill and as far a the wiring I will look on my truck and tell you the color code to wire it up.
  • check your u joint
  • buy a rebuilt kit or go look at one they have and blow up view of the carb..
  • Can anyone tell me the proper rotation of the water pump. I replaced the water pump and the thermostat with a fail safe and the temperature worked fine for about a week. Now it stay cool
    I know the water pump comes in two styles a clockwise and counter clockwise rotation. I purchased the clockwise rotation, I believe this is wrong. Can anyone help me.
  • i dont know wats wrong, if my truck its a k1500 and like it jsut died on me didnt over heat didnt like knock just died and i put a new battery in it it turns over sounds like it is goin to start but dosnt i put more oil in it cuz it was low and i dont know wat can it be
  • I have a '99 K3500 dually cab and chassis that does not have the rear anti-sway bar, although all the mounting points are there. I've tried through several Chevy dealers to purchase one, the parts microfiche shows one, with the links. I ordered the links and the bar but the bar does not match the illustration and has no provision for the links. I assumed that Chevy mis-labeled the part but Chevrolet says that they can't provide the correct one without a VIN and my VIN is for a vehicle that is NOT so equipped. Does anyone have a cab and chassis dually with the rear anti-swaybar that can provide me with the VIN so I can give it to Chevrolet? Or, does anyone know of a wrecking yard with extensive inventory that might have a cab and chassis dually? (The chassis width is narrower than the pickups)

    I can't believe that Chevy can't get me the correct part.

  • thanks for the reply. i do need to replace the core support because it was trashed also.I have comoosite haedlights.thanks for the help.
  • I have very little knowledge of vehicle repairs. My truck will not turn over, I checked the battery and recharged it just in case, checked wiring, nothing loose, still will not start. My brother-in-law says it may be something with the starter or starter solinoid. does this make sense and where can I look to start the repairs?
  • i see u maybe ur altera is bad it sometime it cause it tricky either can be starter id u hear any that try run then it not starter somethin other hopeful i can give the best bec i have 1997 chvy 1500 ext cab v-8 :)
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