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Chrysler 300: Care & Maintenance

Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
edited May 2014 in Chrysler
Talk about 300 care and maintenance here.

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  • johnnyjjohnnyj Posts: 1
    If you are a fanatic about the finish of your car you have got to try Zaino polish. I have used this product for 5 years now and have found nothing that compares. Do a search on Zaino Brothers. You won't find this in any stores but online. I used this exclusively on my recently traded in 200 300M and the paint looked as good as it did on Day 1. John
  • HacksawHacksaw Posts: 29
    As a semi-frequent city commuter, one thing that worries me about this car: it has no front bumper. Well, it does, but it's behind the plastic front grill. How does this thing fare when someone misjudges a bit when parallel parking? When leaving a spot, lots of people back-up until they feel a bump. If that's the case, this grill looks and feels like it will crack.

    Granted, bumpers are no guarantee against damage, but they sure do help!

    Any thoughts on this? It's a really sharp car but this worries me a bit.
  • dkrhardydkrhardy Posts: 134
    Wow hacksaw - cars haven't had bumpers for years! The plastic/rubber facia started - hum - geez, when was it?
  • HacksawHacksaw Posts: 29
    I call that plastic/rubber facia that protrudes from the front of the car a *bumper*. It's usually thick, flexible, and resistent to damage caused by very low speed "bumps". The 300 does not have this-- it has a rigid grill. To me, this looks very prone to breakage and not practical at all if you're going to be parallel parking often.
  • dennisdennis Posts: 50
    I've noticed a downfall to the 300's front end.....a big bug collector!
  • jeepjeep Posts: 86
    I must agree. See my posting on the other owners site.

    I must say though that after spraying with the garden hose, letting it soak, spray again, and give it some soap. the front nose came spotless. It appears that all the bugs finally just slid right off.
  • 300c is coming out with awd early 2005.

    how will it do in snow with front wheels pulling 32% and rears pushing 68%?

    I thought to be the best in inclement weather it should be the opposite?

    Can someone advise me?

    trying to decide if 300c awd for my choice in snow.
  • owardoward Posts: 1
    I haven't tried Zaino yet but curious. Currently using P21S and Wolfgang products. Wash with P21S shampoo and their wheel cleaner (oem painted aluminum on 300T), then use P21S conditioning polish. Follow this up with Wolfgang Sealer below moldings and bumper (the high grime areas) and P21S carnauba above molding and light day hit entire painted surface with carnauba coat. Routine really sets off the magnesium pearl color, which looks dull in California sun without fresh coat of wax. Sealer below molding makes rinse off a breeze and carnauba on top sets off faceted lines of car. Dress tires with Meguiars Hot Shine. Quick detail with Meguiars Quick Detail once or twice a week...any more and it seems to take slickness of carnauba away. Products applied by hand with terry cloth or foam applicator and taken off with terry cloth and buffed with microfiber.
  • carnut5carnut5 Posts: 7
    Any tips on vehicle break in? I have a 300c, black and was wondeing how long before I can put the pedal to the metal...
  • chrisnj1chrisnj1 Posts: 13
    I waxed my car this weekend using the P21S carnauba wax. It is totally amazing. It has a really nice deep shine. Easy to use, great result. Thanks for the tip.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    You need to read the owner's manual, which should cover the break-in recommendations. But if you don't find anything there, I would guess varying the speeds on trips between 45-60 mph for the first 500 miles would be a good thing to do, so everything gets seated properly.
  • please, please,help. have a 98 neon with faulty key fob,imobiliser will not disarm. dealer in Ireland tells me I must tow car to him at crazy cost, is there any way around this?
  • I just went to www.300c where 2 guys were talking about waxing their 300's. The one guy said he read not to use carnauba based wax on clearcoat cars. Use a polymer based wax. For what it's worth
  • can the cam sensor be replaced on 3.5l w/o removing upper intake
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    Alternative coil/boot assembly

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -

    I found my set up in the 2006 300C a little different:

    The coil on the top of the plugs looked like this
    [IMG] plugs/DSCF0006.jpg[/IM- - G]

    Disconnect the wire by squeezing the plug at the top left to release it.

    Take the two small screws holding the coil/boot assembly in place.

    Here I have removed one:

    [IMG] plugs/DSCF0007.jpg[/IM- - G]

    Gently pull the assembly out from the plug caverns. The assembly looks like this:

    [IMG] plugs/DSCF0008.jpg[/IM- - G]

    The cavern entrances look like this:

    [IMG] plugs/DSCF0010.jpg[/IM- - G]

    Take the plugs out using a narrow plug socket.

    Insert the new plugs after applying anti-sieze and dielectric grease.

    Tighten the plugs to 13 foot pounds

    Insert the boot/coil assembly

    Replace and tighten the two screws holding the coil on.

    Reattach the wire.

    Go on to the other 14 plugs. :shades:
  • I would like to know if anyone knows how much total fluid the Chrysler 330C/ 5 speed trans holds. I would love to service the trans and change the filter and fluid. I do my own maintenance but nobody seems to know the capacity of this trans. Also, is there a dipstick available to check the fluid level or does Chrysler have the only one?
  • The Transmission in your 300C is manufactured by Mercedes. It is designed as a sealed unit, without the need of a dipstick. I questioned a personal friend of mine concerning this design, since he has been a professional mechanic for Mercedes for nearly 30 years and attended the factory schools to become qualified to perform repairs on Mercedes vehicles. He explained that the theory behind sealing the transmission was to prevent contamination and overfilling. After many years of research, the reliability improvement engineers determined that over 90% of the problems reported with transmissions could be traced back to owners (or unauthorized (ignorant) service technicians overfilling the transmission often with the wrong transmission fluid. The transmission fluid level must be precisely maintained at the design level and it is a proprietary synthetic hydraulic fluid that performs the same at all temperatures. In addition, dipsticks allow contaminants like dust, dirt and moisture a path into the transmission where they can cause the fluid to foam. By sealing the transmission, these variables are eliminated and if there are any problems with the operation of the transmission, they can quickly be identified as either electronic or mechanical. Reliability of the transmissions since this design change has increased dramatically. When performing scheduled maintenance, only qualified technicians will have the equipment to properly flush the transmission and torque converter and refill it with the exact amount of proper fluid. It is not uncommon to see some vehicles with 300,000 miles on the transmission needing only the scheduled fluid and filter changes. Although it is perfectly acceptable to perform your own maintenance on the engine, the transmission is best left to the guys who have the right equipment to do it properly. The technology has left us with supreme reliability with a small cost. :)
  • Do I really need to change the plugs on my 300C at 30K???
    They want 400 bucks!!!
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 570
    I doubt it. What does the owner's manual say? The dealer is probably trying to do service that is not required. Go by Chrysler's recommendation in the manual.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    The owner's manual says 30,000 miles for a 5.7 HEMI. I did my own for $1.75X16 and about an hour's work. Easy to do.
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Posts: 117
    Yes, you need to change them. No, you do not need to pay $400.00. It is fairly easy to do it yourself. Access to all the plugs is good compared to many other cars. You can buy Autolite, Champion, or any other reputable brands to fit the 5.7L HEMI for aorund $2.00 each. The reason you want to change them is because of the MDS system. When the cylinders "unload" to improve your highway MPG, one of the side effects is the plugs get wet with lube oil, which burns off the next time the cylinder fires, leaving carbon deposits behind. This is a good reason to use full synthetic lubricant instead of sythetic blends or conventional motor oil. There are no carbon deposits left behind with synthetic lubricants; it doesn't burn, and it has no hydrocarbons at all. Still, I plan to change my plugs soon to ensure my MDS system functions properly and I don't lose any performance or mileage from worn out spark plugs. They are subjected to "arc welder grade" electrical energy and will eventually burn away to the point where the fuel is not fully combusted because of weak sparks. It is cheap and easy enough to do, and the benefits are proven. ;)
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Posts: 117
    Are there 2 per cylinder? Also, what brand/type did you use? I am shopping for plugs right now, and I was curious if I should look into some of the fancy new designs from Bosch with the multiple anodes or "pulse" technology types that apparently make combustion efficiency optimal. Thanks. :confuse:
  • My daily driver is a 2006 300 Touring. I have owned it four years and have had many problems, especially with the front tie rods, wheel bearings etc, Even after replacing, the problems continue. So far, my dealer has been pretty good about repairing the issues under warranty. However, in some cases they split the cost with me. Most recently, they charged me a nominal amount just so I can have another warranty on the new service.

    I really like the car thus the reason for me tolerating the aggravation I am experiencing. Are other 300 owners experiencing a range of problems with their 300s, or, do I have a lemon?
  • paul922paul922 Posts: 2
    My dealer told me 30K+ is OK, go to 35K and do tune up and rear end service at the same time. They get $250 for the Tune job, $150 for differential. Have had two 300C's and love the car.
  • deadeye1deadeye1 Posts: 6
    HI All: Have an2007 300Touring. My tire pressure warning comes on (flashing)

    every few days. I stop get out , eyeball the tires and continue on. The light

    then goes off. Any of you have the some problem ??

  • Yes, the same thing has happened to my 2006 touring. However, it was during the winter months while the car sat outside during work hours. I kept checking the tires and made sure that the tires were at the recommended pressure. Then it stopped and I have not seen it since.
  • smithedsmithed Posts: 444
    How many miles have you driven it? Tie rod ends and wheel bearings can be wear issues. My 2006 has 53000 miles and none of those problems have come up.
  • My front end issues started at 48K miles. I now have 72K miles and the left wheel bearing needed to be replaced again. Had it done last june with 56K miles on the car. My left front tie was repaired in feb of 08 and also had to be replaced in June of 08. Had the right tie replaced in June 08, so far, ok. Another point I would like to mention is that my dealer is having problems getting parts, paint etc....I guess the bankrupcy is the culprit.
  • hotrodpahotrodpa Posts: 2
    I have a 06 300 basic and just ended my warranty and can say never had a problem with mine.
  • When you talk about your car you need to state if it is rear wheel drive or all wheel drive and the year of your car. Also the what engine you have. They are
    all different.
This discussion has been closed.