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Land Rover LR3



  • actually feathering is not normal -there is a technical service bullentin from land rover regarding the premature tire wear - its related to bush geometry and can be fixed.
    If your tires are feathering after 30k that is not normal. land rover paid for new tires on my lr3 because of this issue
  • pfolkpfolk Posts: 70
    You haven't been shopping much. The V10 diesel Toureg was imported for 1-2 years and then discontinued for a year because it wouldn't meet clean air regs in the US. Then it was brought back for another year or so. It was recently discontinued in favor of a new V6 diesel that gets better mileage and is - I believe - 50 state legal. I tested the V10 before I brought my current LR3 and was very impressed with its performance. My wife pronounced it ugly, however, and dragged me back to the Land Rover store for an LR3, which she pronounced "sexy". Go figure!

    I am hopeful that Tata will put together a diesel package for the Land Rover line that is legal in the US. My guess is that the Euro-spec diesels won't pass emissions standards in the US without major mods, such as the MB Bluetec urea package, and Land Rover doesn't want to go that route or pay the extra money to license the tech (plus loss of machismo points to MB). With pending drastic increases in CAFE standards, they will either have to introduce a clean diesel, wean customers away from the addiction to horsepower, or else bring a hybrid. I would favor a diesel as it would be more robust and easier to maintain. There is already way too much in today's Land Rover that depends on microchips to work.
  • pfolkpfolk Posts: 70
    Understand and accept your point. My truck does not have the problem with the improper bush geometry. It was produced after that issue was resolved.
  • pfolkpfolk Posts: 70
    Just got back from a week-long camping trip on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. My 07 LR3 made the trip to our campsite over many miles of unpaved Forest Service roads a very smooth and easy drive. Raised the suspension to avoid the occasional tranny-basher rock but no other serious hazards except dust so thick we had to slow down to avoid losing sight of the vehicles in front of us.

    I can't say enough good things about how this truck performed. I went from 1500 feet to 8700 feet in elevation on this trip with no lack of power. Fuel mileage going up was in the 18-19 mpg range and over 22 mpg coming back down to Phoenix again. Handled our typical summer weather 111-115 degrees F.without a complaint.The coolant temperature gauge was locked at the center of the dial (as it always is) for the entire trip.

    Even the paint held up well to the brush that crowded the edge of the forest track. I thought I was going to have "desert pinstripes" before I washed off all the dirt. No serious scratches. Just washed and waxed it when I got back to Phoenix and it's fit for the daily commute again.

    And the best part of the trip was spending a week under Ponderosa pines and brilliant blue skies; hardly saw another soul except the members of our group. Now if we could do something to ground those blankety-blank helicopter tours over the Canyon, life would be perfect.

    This is why we own Land Rovers.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Now if we could do something to ground those blankety-blank helicopter tours over the Canyon

    A big amen to that! Fun trip report.
  • Is it possible to put a different grade of Brake pads on the LR3 that last longer? I was told that the factory brake pads on the LR3 last between 15K-20K.. for most city driving. I've replaced them at 35K and at 50K..I bought the car with 20k on it.. Cost around $600-700 bucks. The light did not come on however the deal checked and said that needed to be replaced soon. The dealer explained to me that large weight of the car and city driving puts alot of wear on the factory breaks. I had a Izusu trooper that went 70K on the original pads. Anbody have any advice? Thanks!
  • Has anyone been quoted for installing driving lights on a late model (2008) LR3?
  • I had the change the pads at 40k, I couldn't believe it... and they told me the samething, big vehicle, hard on pads. I'm at 70K now, and pads still good. I also had suspension parts changed 4 times. I bought an extended warranty and plan to keep the vehicle for a bit. I will change every possible part I can on that expensive warranty...
  • Do you mean fog lights, or just regular day time driving lights?
  • 40,000 miles for front pads is pretty good. I see most people driving LR3s need pads in the mid 30,000 range. Tell me you did the rotors too but I guess you would have had to in order to make it to 70,000 miles and still not need pads.
  • Thanks...Yeah the break pads are averaging every 15,000-20,000K.. Never had to replace the rotors yet...Some independent shops told me that I could not replace the pads only and the the rotors had to always be replaced. I found out that this was untrue
  • If you replace the rotors with the pads you will get more then 15k-20k of life out of the pads. That is why they told you to replace the rotors too. The rotors on most euro cars are soft and wear with the pads. Unless you are spending all your time driving stop and go in the city with lots of hills you should be able to get mid 30,000 miles out of the pads. Even if there are a lot of hills in your area down shifting with command shift will significantly reduce brake wear.
  • I went to check my bill and I had the pads and rotors done at 23 000 miles for $1100.00. I had so many things fixed on the truck it's hard to keep track...
  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110
    I had my brake pads changed at a Les Schwab in WA. They guarantee them for 3 years unlimited miles. Also they checked the Rotors and they were able to be resurfaced instead of replaced. Land Rover Northwest told me they replace them anyway. I paid arouind $600 to have all 4 rotors resurfaced, new calipers, and new pads. You do need to check with them in advance so they can pre-order the calipers and pads since they are not normally stocked. They resurface the rotors while they are still mounted to the vehicle. They have this portable lathe that they latch onto the undercarriage and it turns the wheel while it is still in place. They said this helps keep the proper alignment. I have around 65K on my '05.

    Coincidentally my wife just got rear ended last month while stopped at a feeder light at a freeway on ramp. He was going around 35 and accelerating and never saw her or braked. New rear bumper, new lower half of the tailgate, new brush bar and tail light guards. New front bumper cover and both tail lights. The car who hit her was completely demolished. Nobody was killed or seriously injured, although my wife has some back and neck pain still. LR forever. You can dent it, but not kill it. And it looks like brand new.
  • colorado4x4colorado4x4 Posts: 29
    edited March 2010
    Turned 125k miles this week.

    Got 62k on the first set of front pads and 47k on the second set. Changed rotors at 109k. Front only. Rear on stock pads. Rear rotors show no wear (wonder if the rear brakes work?) Changed the pads and rotors myself at 109k. Really easy if you have ever done a brake job before. Otherwise log on to LR's service web site and download the instructions. I think they charge about $14 for 3 day's access. Don't forget to get the wear sensor for the brake pad!

    Over 50k miles on the Nitto Grapplers. They still run great and look like they could go another 50k miles. Rotated them for the first time about 10k miles ago. They shuddered when braking from 30mph+, but have settle down and run normally again.

    Getting some wear in front suspension bushings. Dealer says $2200 fix. I will live with it for now. I notice it over speed bumps, but no one else in the truck hears it. I get a small drip leak coming from the LED light above the center console in a really hard rain. Has happen twice in 24 months.

    This truck has been all over Colorado's off road trails, boulder climbing, forging 36" deep streams, bottomed out in snow and mud and even raced on a frozen lake. I take it into strip mines and coal yards at least once a month. It is still quiet at 90mph on the highway. Pulls our 4800# boat like it is not even back there. Interior is pristine as we have had the LR fitted seat covers on all three rows since new. Take them off and wash them every 6 months and treat the leather. Carpet is a little stained from kids and coal dust, but the LR rubber mats have been great. Would probably go after market on those again, looking for better coverage of the carpet.

    The truck has been a pleasure to own and will be with the family for a long time.

    Getting ready to purchase a 2010 or 2011 RRS SC for the wife. Can't wait!
  • lrguy44lrguy44 Posts: 2,197
    Great post. It is good to see someone actually experiencing the unique capabilities of the car Isn't Georgetown a hoot?
  • Hey thanks for the info about the break pad replacement. Next time I am going to wait till the light goes on till I replace the breakpads. Next time I will check out the Nitto Grapplers.
    My center console light has had a drip too only a couple of times. I spoke to the dealer and the said that there are gutters that run up an into the roof that need to be cleaned out. Leafs and so fourth clooged it up and the water can't drain properly. They told my at the dealer it would be about 100 bucks.

  • Georgetown is great! My wife was a much better driver on ice than I was though, truth be told. We were running Nokian tires then. Great snow and ice tire for the truck if you are ever looking for one. I have a full set here in Florida with at least 5mm left on all for sides. Might run them again if these Nittos ever die.
  • colorado4x4colorado4x4 Posts: 29
    edited March 2010
    Thanks for the info on the gutters. I found this on the internet and will give it a try next weekend:

    "I had the water leaking problem also. It's coming from the sunroof. A little water always leaks from the sunroof of any car and goes down the rain gutters in the track. Yours probally got filled with crap. I used a thick 14 gauge soild core electrical wire and stuck it down the two front holes located on each side of the track. Once the clog is cleared out you there won't be any more problems.

    The drain tube runs out behind the fender and the plastic wheel moding so once you stick the wire in it'll stop that's the end of the tube. You should be able to stick about the height of the LR3 worth of wire down to clean the drain tube."

    Can't give the dealer $100...have to save money to fuel new RRS SC!

    If you go to the Grapplers, note that they are much bigger than stock. You can NOT drive the truck in access mode. If you turn the wheel hard in access mode, you will rip out the suspension height sensor in the wheel well. This will cause a suspension fault, but you can still drive the truck at normal height. For some reason they ran this wiring in wheel well, outside of the plastic shroud. This is for a 2005, not sure if they changed it later. I cut both wiring harnesses and rerouted this sensor wire behind the plastic. Have not had problem with it for two years.

    Grapplers are not a quiet as stock rubber and will impact fuel economy on the highway, but that is not what I bought them for. They are awesome on the trail at about 24 psi. I run them at 46 psi on the highway vs. recommended pressure on the door label. That gets me about 2 mpg better than the lower pressure and MUCH less noise. Don't get me wrong, it is still a quiet truck on the highway, considering what it can do off road.

    The Grapplers make the LR3 look like it belongs off road and not in a garage in suburbia somewhere. I get compliments on the look everywhere I travel in the country.

    Good luck!
  • britman4britman4 Posts: 27
    So just changed brake pads at 35k, light came on. The firm also insisted the Rotors were changed......

    35k.....Does anyone think that was a bit quick to go through rotors?
  • I had to change rotors and pad at 30k, and now again at 52k. I didn't do any unusual driving, I don't even pull a trailer, just a bit off road. I just traded the LR3 for a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. I really enjoyed the Landrover but I was tired of the repairs, and most of all, the brutal service from my local Landrover dealer. Also, the LR3 does not keep its value, I went to different dealers for trade in and all would offer me only a fraction of what I paid. I'll miss driving it, I'll miss the confort and all, but the problems with repairs and bad :( service far outweight the enjoyment of driving it...
  • I have around 62,000 on my LR3 never had to change the rotors I have put new break pads on it twice but that was it. Next time I am going to put a longer lasting break pads. Haven't had too many problems with the LR3 a few things but they were all covered under the warranty... They tend to hold their value out here in california. I would definitely by another when this one reaches 100,000
  • britman4britman4 Posts: 27
    Have had zero problems with mine really. With all due respect, the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited is a very different car for a very different market and frankly not on a par with LR3 or its competitors. When you buy a car like this you would expect some costs. Both LR garages I have used have been thoroughly excellent.
  • Sorry to see you leave the LR family. My 06 LR3 has been very good to me. Lots of fun off road and very safe family transport in between. I agree that the depreciation is a bit outrageous so I've decided to keep mine until the extended warranty expires - 7yrs and 60k miles. Replaced the tires at 27k and so far the brakes are fine at 34k miles. The wrangler is a nice truck too, but different.
  • Yes the Jeep Wrangler is a much different vehicle, I was very well aware of this when I bought it last summer. I did enjoy the summer with it though, especially with the roof off. We took a trip to New England with the dogs in the back, it was a lot of fun. I must say I do miss the LR3, especially now in the winter. I miss the comfort and the fun I had driving it. My wife misses the heated seats. I keep up to date with the reviews on the LR4, I wouldn't mind taking one out for a test drive. I'm glad you're enjoying the LR3, thanks very much for your reply to my post.
  • Finally could not take the shudder anymore and broke down and headed to the dealer for a fix. Turns out the bushings were worn. $600 out the door and the truck is riding like the day I picked it up again. Next time I will swap the bushings with after market ones as these are only lasting about 60,000 miles.

    The Nittos on the front are starting to show signs of their age. Time for a new pair up front. I have just shy of 70,000 miles on the set. Unbelievable tires! I have been quoted $910 for a new set of 4, mounted and road hazard. That's about 1.3 cents per mile!

    Everything else is running well. I have stretched the oil changes to 13,000 miles. I have the oil tested at 6000 and 12000. Lab says I could probably go 20,000 miles, just change the filter at 10,000. Might try that next time.

    Still thinking about that 2011 SC...
  • lr32006lr32006 Posts: 2
    Our LR3 2006 has for the past year, sporadically begun on start up, to 'blow' puffs of air from air conditioner, then show emergency brake as 'on', flash the emergency lights, continue increased 'puffing', door locks pulse on/off, and several times the horn continuosly beeps. These actions can also take place just after turning off engine. Our LR dealership mechanics on each return to the shop say the computer does not show anything wrong. We paid, despite extended warranty for new battery, which made no difference.
    Our LR 3 is once again, in the shop and no one, even the manufacturer has heard of this problem before or knows what to do about it.
    So, other LR 3 owners out there, please post if you have experienced similar or have suggestions.
    When this happens during the night, unaware to us, we have been stranded with dead battery in a.m....and very alarming and disturbing to public in parking lots. There is no way to stop these occurances once started, just
    have to wait until they go away.
  • dandrews1dandrews1 Posts: 184
    Have they checked the body harness? It sounds like you may have a critter chew some of your wiring. Something like what your experiencing happened toe and a mouse had made a nest in the engine bay using my harness.
  • lr32006lr32006 Posts: 2
    Update from owner: The Land Rover mechanics found nothing wrong once again..and we checked harness. Is it possible that when the problems explained above happen, it is next day before we get it into the LR into the dealership. By then the computer has reset itself so there is no way to see what's caused the problems. If so, how do we solve the problems?
    **Has any owner of a Land Rover or Range Rover** expierienced the same set of problems with their vehicle. It is unbelievable that manufacturer, dealership, and LR specialist mechanics cannot solve this problem.
  • discomandiscoman Posts: 110
    I also had a similar problem with my 2005 LR3. And it was a rat had crawled up in the engine copmaprtment and chewed up the wiring harness. Apparently Land Rover and other auto manufacturers in their effort to "Go Green" have started purchasing wiring and cabling with insulation made from Vegetable oil based plastics insted of petroleum based plastics. So the insulation is basically a hearty vegetarian meal to the critters. The harness was not covered by the extended warranty, but my insurance company re-imbursed me for the cost of the $600 wiring harness minus my deductible. I suspect 1 of 2 things. Either your LR mechanics are trying to milk your extended warranty, before actually fixing the problem where you, or your insurance company has to pay, or there is an intermittent problem with the Computer. A loose or "Cold" Solder joint could cause it. So could a loose ground wire somewhere in the mix. My first step would be to go over the wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and check all wires and grounds. The second would be to reload the software package on the computer to rule out a corrupted file. Third would be to replace the computer.
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