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VW Jetta TDI



  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    I just found out today that I will be going on a 4 month "vacation" starting in mid-November and going until around mid-March, and will not be able to use my car (09 TDI). Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could/should do to prepare the car for sitting for so long? I am trying to find someone who can take the car and run it for the winter, but if not what is the best thing for me to do?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    4 months isn't that long in the scheme of things. Many new cars sit on the lots that long before they sell. I would probably put a good quality diesel treatment in and be done with it. I believe Standayne might be good in this case, as I believe it specifically targets moisture and algae growth in diesel.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Diesel treatment is a must - also, when you add it, make sure your gas tank is full (same for gasoline engines) when you leave for an extended period. Full tank prevents possible moisture condensation inside the fuel tank.
    Have it run (start the engine) at least once per week (by someone, who will take care of your house, while you are gone) and run the A/C full blast that prevents various seals in A/C system from hardening and keeps them lubricated. Starting and running the engine once a week also keeps most engine moving parts lubricated.
    If you live in a cold climate and the car is not garaged, make sure you have both, radiator and windshield wiper fluids with fresh freeze-free additives. Radiator coolant can be mixed to the desired density and you can add anti-freeze agents into wiper fluid reservoir (sometimes just plain rubbing alcohol does the job).
    Don't apply the hand brake (leave the car in P or in a gear, if manual transmission).
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    We are missing some vital info here on your TDI dropping dead @ 160,000 miles.

    If the timing belt broke I'm suprised it is only costing you $1900.00!

    When they break it causes a chain reaction that could bring the bill up nearer $4,000. (whole new top end of the engine, plus the new TBWP)

    When was the belt changed last, that's the question inquiring mind want to know?
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Thanks to you and sebring for the advice, I should also have mentioned that I live in Western PA (decent amount of winter) and the car will be sitting outside. Also have the auto DSG.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,174
    I've had many "vacations" for 3-6months and I just have my wife drive the car every two to three weeks. I'm sure a month has went by between drives as we each tend to drive our own vehicles. Never any ill effects summer or winter. Now a diesel may need some fuel additive but I don't think you need to worry that much about air conditioning seals etc. Like someone else said, cars set on dealers lots for months sometimes with very little activity.
  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Just about every car's manual (in the glove box) recommends running A/C at least once every 2 weeks. Here is an example of such recommendation from one such publication:

    Tip 1: During winter many motorists forget about their auto air conditioning because it isn't necessary to use it during those cold months. But did you know that using the air conditioning on the windscreen will clear any internal fogging very efficiently, and having the heater on at the same time stops you getting cold as well.

    Tip 2: Using the auto air conditioner as noted above will also help to alleviate any need to re-gas the system. Why? Because an auto air conditioner compressor uses a seal on the drive shaft to keep the refrigerant from escaping. This seal works with the help of a thin film of oil, during winter the non use of the air conditioner allows the oil to dry up thus letting the refrigerant escape. The unknowing driver does not find out their system isn't functioning till summer arrives. Run your car air conditioner once every 2 weeks for a few minutes and you will have no problems or use it to defrost and defog your windscreen during winter.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,086
    I think most vehicles with climate control use the AC all the time. At least my last two vehicles showed the AC light on anytime I used climate control to keep a constant temp. It makes sense that running it would protect the seals.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I agree with most of what you have said.... EXCEPT the "run the engine once a week"

    This is a big NO NO during storage. Once an engine is prepared for storage, LEAVE IT. Just idling once a week is ASKING for condensation to build up in the crankcase. This can form acid which causes metal corrosion.

    If it *has* to be run, DRIVE it until HOT for at least 30 minutes. If you have the vehicle up on blocks (to protect the tires from flat-spots)... driving it may be a hassle.

    As a real-world example...
    People who drive short commutes will tell you that their exhaust pipes rust thru every couple years. This is because of the condensation/acid/corrosion issue I mention above. Folks that drive long commutes may never-EVER have to replace an exhaust system because the heat keeps things clean.

    As for additional comments on storage.... DONT FORGET TO CHARGE THE BATTERY. It is best to hook it up to a battery-maintainer which will monitor the battery and recharge as needed. (Schumacher battery maintainer at walmart around $20.)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    I agree...just add some fuel conditioner, install a battery-maintainer, and forget about the car after that until you return.

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  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Well, does this apply to diesel exhaust as well? I am not so sure as I don't see any condensation from the exhaust when I start my Tdi as oppose to starting a gasoline car and the condensation resulting from gas exhaust going through a catalytic converter. Anybody out there who had an issue with corrosion of their diesel exhaust pipes?
    In the aviation application (R-22 helicopter, for example) that is exactly what is recommended when the ship is not being used in winter. Start and run it once per week for a few minutes.
  • A turbine engine is very different from a regular reciprocating internal combustion engine assuming a R-22 uses a jet turbine motor.

    A diesel engine is going to act the same way as far as condensation building up in the crank case.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    I'd also worry about fuel dilution if you start up an engine and run it briefly and repeatedly. Not quite sure how fuel dilution relates to various diesel injection systems vis a vis gas engines but I would think any cold start fuel/air mixture would be rich.

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  • jogousajogousa Posts: 402
    Well, that makes sense - did not think about the condensation up in the crank case although I have read somewhere that some people spray inside the crank case with some special mixture just for this purpose to avoid the possible rust build up.
    Good advice though...never had that problem and in my opinion it's always better to drive it at least once a week for a while if there is someone to do it. Main issue would be a battery drain because many newer cars have all kinds of things (e.g. alarm ) running and possibly draining the battery when the car is just parked and not used.

    By the way, R-22 doesn't have a turbine motor (none of the Robinsons do) it just a plain 6 cylinder aviation engine.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You said ==> "condensation resulting from gas exhaust going through a catalytic converter"

    I cannot let such innaccuraces go by.... the H2O (water droplets) seen from exhaust is mostly a by-product of combustion. A cold catalytic converter cannot perform its job so it does not come into play until engine is fully warmed up. At that point... all H2O is in the form of steam.

    Reminder: Combustion is the combining of anything with Oxygen... (in this case Hydrogen) resulting in H2O.

    When your engine combustion-chamber runs too hot... even the Nitrogen in air combusts with the Oxygen... this is called NOx (nitrates of oxygen). The reason engines have a EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system is specifically to reduce NOx

    Even a simple CANDLE produces H2O... just hold a butterknife over the flame for a few seconds and you will see H2O condensation on it.

    A catalytic converter is mainly intended for Oxidation of carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. (2CO + O2 → 2CO2) also Oxidation of unburnt hydrocarbons to carbon dioxide and water (CxH2x+2 + 2xO2 → xCO2 + 2xH2O)

    Besides... the VW TDI has a catalyst in the exhaust just like a gasser engine.... so your assertion is incorrect from the get-go 8-)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    So how much H20 do you get from one gallon of gasoline?

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  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    5 milliliters less than one gallon water from combustion of one gallon gasoline.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    Thanks again to all with their valuable input! At the moment, I'm not sure if I will have someone that is able to run the car during the winter or not, but at least now I have a much better idea of what needs to be done.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    Well let's say if you do or you don't, no big deal either way.

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  • Do the 2009 and 2010 Jetta TDI have Cruise control as a standard feature. Since I like stick shift I find on the highway cruise control adds greatly to your mpg.
  • rcarr7rcarr7 Posts: 19
    Yes, both MY's have cruise control as a standard feature.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    My chart shows that CC is standard for 2010, yes.

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  • Thanks for the responses. When I get my Jetta I'll be looking forward to great mpg. Many years ago I had a diesel Rabbit but with no garage I had some hard times getting started on winter mornings. My brother has a Beatle diesel and no starting problems. Thanks again for the info.
  • My TDI will not start. Battery is good, but nothing happens when I turn the key. All the lights come on and the radio works fine. Any suggestions?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Get out the ol' voltmeter and start troubleshooting.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,868
    Look up "Relay 109 TDI" in Google search and research the information. I'm not sure if 2004 TDI is affected by the relay 109 problems, however, it is well worth your time to make sure this is not the problem you are having. Could possibly save you $$$
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,354
    Is this an automatic?

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  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Mr_Shiftright has a very good point.... an automatic xmission will NOT crank the engine if the gearshift-switch is not in the PARK position. (or switch is broken)

    For that matter, a manual xmission will not crank the engine if clutch-switch is not satisfied.(or switch is broken)
  • askfl7askfl7 Posts: 2
    I replaced the latch on the center armrest but was told that there is not spring to hold the latch shut. Makes no sense. Does anyone have any information, a picture or some help for me.
    Thank you
  • It is a manual. I am getting power to the selenoid but the starter is not chattering just a single click. Since I am getting power to the starter I dont think it is an ignition switch or relay. I pulled the starter and will take it to get tested tomorrow.
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