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VW Jetta TDI



  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    I concur with bpeebles' response. However, I buy Stanadyne at a local diesel service center to avoid the culture shock inflicted whenever entering a Walmart. I add 3 ounces to each full fill-up primarily for the enhanced lubrication and cleaning of the fuel system. Both of my TDI's are PD's, and considering the quality of American diesel fuel, I figure the cost of 3 ounces of insurance a month per vehicle is worth it.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    LOL. For certain there can be an over load of TMI.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    Trust me, before you want to believe that I am making this up.

    VW504 (gasser standards)/507 (D2 standards) have actually been OUT for a long time, ( since 2004) if Total's literature is to be belived. So far more time and mileage and a myraid of scenarios are literally "water under the European bridge". VW is really ubiquitious on European markets. It is not like in the US where they hold what, 2.5% of the markets share?

    Both Total and Fuchs list their VW specification oils as meeting the standards up to 50,000 kms (converts to 31,069 mles). - - 20SAE%205W-30%20(VW%20504.00%20&%20507.00;%20ACEA%20A3;B4;C3)%20-%2031Mar08.pdf

    What might be noteworthy about the two is both go back and forth being the oem factory fill. In addition both are excellent high quality oils. They are as most can imagine not well known in the US market, say like Mobil One.
  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    I Have a 2009 TDI with 26,000 miles. The rear brake pads are down to 3 mm, and
    the front are at 4 mm. I am looking to replace them with Hawk HPS, or possibly
    Hawk Performance Ceramic. I am also considering Centric Premium rotors. Any
    suggestions in the replacement of these parts would be appreciated. I am not
    considering the OEM pad because they seem to wear very quickly. I am not
    interested in better performance then stock pads, but longer life and at least
    equal performance as the OEM pads provided.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    It is pretty apparent you and the conditions driven are hard on the brake pads and rotors. The numbers (on front and rear pads) indicate that braking is done "correctly", albeit aggressively in that you brake in such a way as to put the majority of the weight and braking action to the fronts. The fronts (rotors and pads) as you know are bigger and what you might doubt is designed to handle most of the braking and weight transfer. You are probably also aware that the VW's have had rear bias (certainly on the 09) and for many MY's before that.

    So the interesting news is that the oem brakes and rotors are actually designed for longer life. You will/ would of course point back to me and probably reemphasize; did you NOT hear 26,000 miles????

    So here is the logic. First off, Hawk pads are excellent products in the areas for which they compete. They are however very aggressive. Part of the reason for the ceramic offering is to give a so called lower dust offering. So if you brake in the style and the ways that you have with the oem pads and rotors(with no adjustments) my swag is you will get even FASTER wear. ( the minor caveat here is you start off with the same measure of pad material)This will be to the pads AND the rotors (inferior, as VW uses pretty high quality oem rotors, and pads for that matter. OEM, ATE or TRW would be better rotor choices) The ceramic would probably yield slightly longer wear as it is indeed HARDER (than the HPS for example)
  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    I've used Hawk HPS pads on my current and previous vehicle and have been very pleased with the relatively low dust, no noise and great cold braking strength and my very infrequent fast-road usage also is great.

    I agree with ruking that 26,000 miles to wear out the stock pads is pretty, um, aggressive. I typically get at least 50,000 miles out of a set of pads. :shades:
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    To add 2 anecdotal scenarios. 03 TDI/09 TDI oem rotors and pads. In addition to like new condition @ the courtesy inspection combined with the 10,000 miles interval done @ ...12,300 miles on the 09 TDI, the technician literally had no measurement difference from "so called new" on either the rotors nor the pads. Counter intuitively, I still run the engine "spiritedly" and will till 30-60k miles where I anticipate both max compression and for the mpg to improve. I did however bed in the brake pads and rotors from 08 miles (new). @ 20,000 miles, I do not have enough data to even swag how long the oem pads and rotors should last. However on an 03 TDI @ 153,000 miles, it is less than half the wear. So a good swag would be 280,000 miles on the oem rotors and pads.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited January 2011
    German-steel, Zimmerman rotors are very good. Akebono pads are also advisable.

    I highly recommend you consider IDParts. They carry brake "kits" which are reasonably priced and you can customize the components as you desire. I have been ordering oil, brakes, glowplugs and virtually all other parts for VWs from IDParts for years.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    Absolutely no argument there. Another is Bora Parts

    The individual choices and combinations are almost short of TMI !
  • jimlockeyjimlockey Posts: 265
    I have a jetta Sportwagon TDI with 30,000 miles and have 85 percent of my brakes remaining. I had a 05 Passat TDI with 85,000 that I traded in on my Jetta that still had the original brakes.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    edited January 2011
    My 06 jetta TDI has 115K, brakes are 100% factory, never required any service/parts.
    At each recent service I ask the dealer and they say the pads are not worn out yet. But close!

    Ceramic brakes bring a whole set of tradeoffs which I understand are inappropriate for a street car. I advise against them even when they are an $10000 option from the factory.
  • My 2006 (purchased new in July of '07) has 159,000 mi on it and I'm still on the original brakes. It's a manual trans and I do mostly highway driving but it seems unusual to only get 26,000 miles on yours.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    I think there was someone driving that car that rides the brakes. I don't know of any modern car that you need to replace brake pads at 26k miles. Or he could be dealing with a crooked dealer.
  • Just past 32k miles breaks are at 50% with NYC driving
  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    How do the HPS pads compare with factory pads in regards to the life of the pad, stopping power, and the feel of the brakes?
  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    I looked at They sell an A5 Front brake kit with Hudson rotors and low-dust ceramic pads by Hudson. One can upgrade the rotors to Zimmerman, and the pads with TRW. The rear kit also has Hudson rotors with Mintex red box pads. The upgrade for this kit is Zimmerman rotors and low-dust ceramic pads by Hudson.

    Do you have any thoughts on which combination would be best? Are these part better suited for a TDI then Hawk brake pads with Centirc Rotors?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    Yes. You might wish to either leave a msg or ask to speak with Peter. He can give you a run down of the (his) product line. Be sure to mention the oem pads lasting app 26,000 miles.

    Let us know what you finally decide or your top 5 picks each in rotors and brake pads.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    I was helping some friends shop for a Jetta TDI wagon---we got a 2011 for $27000 out the door (all taxes, license, etc). I thought this was a pretty good deal, especially since they're paying 9.25% sales tax where I live.

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  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    I have read in passing that of the 2010 JSW sold, most were TDI's (more than 75% of the JSW inventory). I am guessing of those 75% were DSG's (aka 6 speed "automatics") aka dual clutch pack shifted drive by wire by computer.

    I do not believe the 2010 total VW sales figures are out yet.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    They're getting a standard shift. It's what they are used to, and all things considered, probably better for them, since they tend to keep cars a long time. I don't think there's really enough data out yet on long term durability of the DSGs. As we know, there have been recalls and extended warranties on older ones.

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  • redvwredvw Posts: 40
    I purchased Hudson rotors, and Hudson Power Stop pads from
    I will post my review after I have a chance to observe how they work. I am not planning to have them installed for about one week.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    If you have done pads and rotors changes before, it is fairly straight forward. Just make sure you have access (rent, borrow, etc.) or buy the (rear calipers) so called "wind back" tool. If you are using a vendor, they should already know and do this anyway.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    True enough. So far, so good @ 21,000 miles on the DSG. It is of course WAY too early to tell. My 09 (VIN specific) got the coveted 10 years and/or 100,000 miles DSG (only) warranty. Curiously (again VIN specific) it was on no recall lists of which there have been two. 1. reflash 2. temperature sensor. I am pretty much looking forward to the life time of the vehicle for DSG durability and reliability. Miles will tell.

    On the 03 TDI, on this renewal registration cycle I was required to do a smog test. So on a 153,000 miles TDI it took the (smog only test station owner/technician) all of 15 seconds to declare this good to go.

    This was a tad odd as before it was hooked up he kept saying that all diesels "smoked". Needless to say this does not inspire a positive attitude. No worries, but it does give one pause. I got a tad annoyed in that what should have been a (way after computer hook up) 15 second (max) smoke test, for some reason turned into what felt like 5 mins !! He kept getting the thing to red line, etc. I was annoyed because even on gasser SUV's they rev it to like 2400 rpm. So,... I asked him if there were any concerns/issues and he sheepishly said no and promptly moved on to the next portions of the test.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    According to my nephew that rebuilds over the road diesel engines and racing diesel engines, the CA smog check for diesels is purely subjective. Best advice, know the smog check guy. They have NO definitive smog check for diesel engines. It is just another CA money grab.

    I ran across this link with a contact at the state if anyone is interested. It pretty much verifies what my nephew told me. They look sniff and hold their hand for the money.

    smog check scam
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited January 2011
    Without a doubt. They do hook it up (by way of the R 232 cable?), but for the smoke test, he said he was looking for a prescribed time allowed in recovery.

    I actually feel the EXACT same way about the gasser smog only tests. While off topic, a 17 year old gasser SUV passed with 185,000 miles with essentially ZERO harmful emissions (not even measurable!!!!!!) . I was way passed a 30,000 miles tune up. I also run 20,000 miles OCI's.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    Hi Friends:

    My wife so far has clipped the Mini Mirror,The Saab Mirror and now the Jetta Mirror on the Garage
    Door Jam. The repair was the easiest so far. I visited U tube and got an overview first.

    After careful inspection the CAP that is the ABS plastic cover was not cracked that is the most expensive b/c you need to PAINT it to match your car color the dealer said. I suspect that may not be true b/c it does not look painted. This part the CAP cost 240.75 + 100.00 to paint=340.75. The Mirror was 39.95 and the turn signal indicator 64.75 both these needed to
    be replaced. The indicator is screwed on in four places you need a "T10x80" screw driver I got
    one at a electronics store for another project that was lucky. The Indicator wire plug needs to
    be unplugged the re- plugged when reassembly it is white and easy. The indicator has a "foot" clip that you press with your thumb to remove assembly it is located about 6 mm from the plug.

    The Mirror snaps in place with notches engaging on a bass drum like mounting. The wires that
    attach to the mirror are female spade type use a needle nose to remove the wire and replace.
    The CAP simply snaps into place and your done the whole job took 30 minutes.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    It is almost jaw dropping what some of these parts retail for.
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    So far I have 70K on my 09 DSG, taking it in Saturday for the service. Seems to be ok at this point... but as you have said, it is too early to say for sure how well it will hold up with little data.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    edited February 2011
    Despite a host of vilification/s the (dual mass) stock clutch on the 03 TDI 5 speed sets a VERY high, but normal bar. If anyone knows how to drive a manual transmission, 400,000 to 500,000 miles is a REASONABLE life expectation. Indeed that is my own expectation @ 153,000 miles (347,000 more miles) The other side of that: you can definitely (if you set your mind to it) toast a clutch in a matter of hours. The DSG is a dual clutch pack "AUTOMATIC" WET lubrication. As such the emphasis is on "convenience". So yes, I am also curious what the range of miles DSG 's will last.
  • I have a 2007 Jetta, and believe it or not, my passenger side door mirror was stolen! In any event, if you know how to replace it, you can purchase the entire mirror (cover, lens, etc) at ADVANCED AUTO PARTS. It was not on their website, but I went to the store and they found it in a catalog. It was about 1/2 price of what the dealer wanted.

    Good luck.

    Bel Air Car Guy
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