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VW Jetta TDI



  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    Agreed mine is an '08 sedan, like I said very similiar.
  • I believe there was a rash of complaints related to failure of the high pressure fuel pump (HPFP). All resolved, as I understand it. I took delivery of my 2013 JSW TDI with manual transmission, Nav and Sunroof this past Thursday. Love it so far, including a run of 100 freeway miles yesterday where the computer said I averaged 56.3 mpg....with less than 250 miles on the odo!
  • ronsteveronsteve Posts: 435
    Anybody can post big numbers that they saw on their trip computer, and while I might be inclined to take them with a grain of salt, that's a waste of salt. Only numbers I can put any stock in as "real-world" MPG are distance traveled/gallons to refill.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,086
    I don't put much stock in the computer mileage either. I have kept a spreadsheet on every vehicle I have owned since the late 1990s. Then you can see tank mileage and yearly mileage etc. About as accurate as you can get.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,337
    If this is not against the rules, here is a link to a thread on break in for TDI's.

    break in
  • oli1oli1 Posts: 33
    I have had my Audi TDI for two years and I travel 52 miles a day for work, and I average 44, and once in a great while, I will reach 46.
    OBTW, where do find the best prices for filters, oil, fuel, and cabin?
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,337
    edited May 2009
    You might look in the vendor section of the "break in" link. There are literally a lot of on line vendors. I can list ones I have had good luck and prices with, but it might be against web site rules. Another might be to go to your VW/AUDI etc dealer and ask for preferred customer rates for parts. There are also dealers that do online business that offer substantial discounts than they probably would at their own parts counter.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,086
    My VW dealer charged less for service with the required TDI Synthetic, than my Toyota dealer with cheapo dino oil.
  • I have kept a log of my fuel use for a total of 74K miles on my '09 TDI sedan and the computer is actually not so far off the actuals I calculate. My computer shows about 43 mpg over the last 4000 miles. I've seen numbers as high as 56 mpg on a trip to work (22 miles one way). I average about 45.5 (distance driven/gallons used) on the highway at about 70 with the AC on. The computer showed about the same.
  • I just wanted to thank everyone for their input on my tire decision. We do have ice and snow here in the Detroit area. It also rains a bit here, especially in the Spring and Fall. I ultimately ended up with a set of Michelin Defender XTs. Discount Tire made me a good quote so I decided to replace all 4 tires before Winter set in. Again, thank you for your time and input on my purchasing decision. :)
  • I agree. Driving MPG varies by the individual, type of driving, habits, etc. My father has a TDI sportwagen. He gets 42+ routinely. I took it on a road trip out west and with my driving habits, only got up to 39.5. However, with my 01 TDI, I routinely get between 45-50 mpg (90% highway). Needless to say, I am sold on the TDI and could not imagine buying a gasoline model ever again.
  • I agree. I always fill up to the neck. My record mileage, obtained last summer, was 823 miles and running on fumes in the end.
  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    You want another 11 mpg , buy a. Set of nokian entyres. Next time u need tires .

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I *already* run Nokian enTires on my TDI and always add cetane-enhancer at every fillup.... perhaps that is why 50+MPG is the norm for me.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    Get serious. 11 MPG? I gained about 5% MPG with the Ecopias. See a comparison at this link. Vs-Entyre.htm
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    edited October 2012
    thanks for the reality-mpg-check data on that one, cosmo! tires are good for a couple or three TDI mpg , such as switching from summer to winter tires.

    one factor in low-rolling-resistance tires is that the possibility that they also provide lower-friction-coefficients while braking - increasing braking distance in emergency stop. there's no fooling mother nature.

    Another way to boost mpg more than 11mpg, try drafting a cooperative bigrig, feet off the bumper- you'll really feel the mpg savings and how it pulls your car (or motorcycle). Just as a test, I'm saying. :shades:
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    My 06 TDI really has a sensitive engine. On some brands of diesel the car will go into convulsions between 2000 and 2300 rpms when on cruise control.

    It happens when the car is going down a slope and the engine is not using fuel but then when the grade goes back up and motor now needs fuel, it does a violent shake rattle and roll for a second or 2 then it's OK until the next same combination of CC, and road conditions.

    The only thing I have found that prevents all this drama is changing the fuel brand. I drive about 500 miles a day for 3 days in a row, so each tank is run down to less than 1/4 and then I start looking for a fill up again and hoping for a no-shudder run.

    I have tried truck stop fill ups and all the major brands...(Shell was the last one that the TDI had big problems with) Then I will have great luck with some no-name brand from some divey place in the middle of nowhere.
    (I have always had great performance from Chevron GAS in my Honda Odyssey, but the Chevron diesel is another story...poor power, bad mpgs and lots of shudders.)

    So far I have not met anyone behind the counters selling diesel who has ever even heard of Cetane ratings..(I do ask) much less what their pumps might have.

    Seems some forum posters are having these issues with the new models of VW TDI's but so far nobody with a 06 except me, has mentioned it. One uninterested VW service writer said "it probably needs to come into the shop and have the cam shaft and valve followers changed" A story he probably uses to make his service dept another $2000.00 that day.

    Not saying the car at 110,000 miles doesn't need the top end looked at, but it will run fine on certain diesel and run like crap after the next fill up from a different location. Covering 2000 miles in 3 days puts me at 4 different stations in 3 different States.
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    We have a "06 and a "11, and had a "04, and have not experienced this problem. I always add Opti-Lube at each fill-up to increase the lubricity of the fuel. It is also claimed to increase the cetane rating and clean the injectors. I also try to always run the tank down until the warning light comes on before refilling. On long trips that is not always possible, but that way I know I always have a tank of mostly fresh fuel.

    You also may want to check your fuel filter.
  • WOW. I have a diesel truck and this is quite a story. I really have no idea but I wouldn't think of the fuel filter as the problem. You need to change every 15K or so. It's been a long time since I saw a vehicle that w as picky about fuel.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited November 2012
    You're right, it's not the fuel filter, changed it out last year, shuddering still a mystery.

    While on a brief trip the other day, I noticed the "battery" warning light had popped on. Thought it might be the serp' belt or alternator so stopped and had a look under the hood.

    Somehow the pulley had completely come off the alternator but the belt was still running on the bare shaft! I guess the belt wasn't getting enough grip to spin the alt' enough and the warning light came on.

    Local VW dealership had to order a new pulley and it will be here in a week.
    The Jetta TDI alt' pulley not a solid pulley, but a clutch design, a rather complicated item..designed to grab and pull under load one way, but will free wheel the other way....

    (Also a very pricy item that requires a special set of tools to take off and install...unless it flies off all on it's own like mine did!)

    This guy goes through it much better and says..."it's a wear item that should be changed with each serp' belt R&R"...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited November 2012
    The pulley coming off the alternator is VERY COMMON. If you read thru the website, you will see.

    If you think the pulley is expensive.... for a long while, the pulley was NOT A REPLACEABLE ITEM and you had to replace the entire alternator when the pulley failed. In the last several years, the pulley became a separate item.

    This happened to my TDI around 140K miles. I replaced pulley AND the the failed tensionor.... good to go for another 140K miles.

    The reason for the pulley issues is because on the TDI engine the alternator pulley has a SPRAGUE CLUTCH. This one-way clutch allows the alternator to 'overrun' when the engine is decellerating.

    DO NOT put a solidly-installed (non SPRAGUE) pulley on TDI engine.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    "The pulley coming off the alternator is VERY COMMON"

    That I didn't know!

    From what I have now learned about it from checking this forum and others,
    seems it's a "wear item" along with the serp' belt and tensioner that VW doesn't mention.

    I now wonder, if for some strange reason...this worn out pulley acting up is the cause of my "shuddering" issues between 2000 and 2400 RPM. If it is causing a sudden alternator load on the engine when starting to pull up a grade on CC, then a different qualities of fuel, might..might, be able to create the shuddering effect.

    It's a long shot, but so far the alternator clutch pulley is the only suspect I have.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited November 2012
    It is EXTREMELY unlikely that an alternator pulley could fail in any way that you would feel it in the way the vehicle drives. I am confident you could cross "alternator pulley" off of your list of possible culprits. (or move it wayyy to the bottom of suspects.)

    A for being a "wear item", this is simply a point of view. Eventually ALL machines will wear out. Using this logic... Your entire vehicle is a "wear item" too.

    Another example- The Timing Belt has a specific replacement interval in miles. the same time EVERY moving component that touches the TB is susceptible to wear and should be replaced at the same time the TB is replaced. These other components are not specifically mentioned in the TB replacement interval... but if you do not replace them, you are ASKING for failure before the next scheduled TB replacement. (Pullies, tensioner, bearings,waterpump, seals....etc.)

    In other words -- the waterpump will NOT last as long as 2 Timing-Belts.... so it makes sense to replace the waterpump when the engine is torn apart to replace the Timing Belt. ( Because the TB needs to be removed to replace the waterpump) Most of the cost of TB replacement is LABOR...not parts. Would you want to pay for the same labor AGAIN before the next TB replacement? (along with the associated inconvenience of unexpected downtime)
  • I had a check engine light come on last week... :mad: It was a throtle body that needed replacement this time, about $600. I had a pressure sensor go in May ($200) and a door lock mechanism ($400) go about a year ago. I'm considering trading in my '09 Jetta TDI sedan since it only has 77K miles and I've already had to shell out $1,200 in repairs. Not to mention that the 80K mile ($400) DSG fluid change is due soon.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited November 2012
    I am curious - how can a "throttlebody" go bad? It is simply a ventrui in which a butterfly valve moves.

    Fo rthat matter - What kind of "pressure sensor" costs $200?

    It sounds to me you need to consider changing your MECHANIC.... not your vehicle.

    Oh- I agree with you about the cost of maintaining the DSG xmission... this is one reason I always drive a manual xmission. In over a million miles of driving, I have never EVER had any xmission problems. (all the way back to 1979 VW Scirocco)

    It seems silly to pay MORE for a fancy xmission and also have to pay MORE to maintain it.
  • longo2longo2 Posts: 347
    edited November 2012
    Had my DSG fluid and filter changed at 40,000 miles and again at 80,000 the service writer almost hugged me saying hardly anyone ever does it and then can't understand it when a DSG replacement costs over $4,000 and VW gives them the bill.
    Last change of fluid/filter cost $270.00 at the dealership, not cheap by any means, but a much better deal than a new DSG.

    I think VW originally thought the DSG option could be sold to customers by claiming it was a 'lifetime fluid' set up. Same mistake of a lot of other new cars being sold these days with automatics.

    One thing I know for sure, no a/t is "lifetime"...they produce iron filings, brass cuttings, melted plastic, rubber, aluminum shards, and fiberous clutch debris that when all combined is a circulating liquid sandpaper going through the tranny.
    Then there is the natural breakdown of the fluid itself....through heat and pressure, it's like a baby, and needs to be changed often and for the same reason.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,086
    Good analysis. I see it as similar to oil changes on the engine. If you change every 10,000 miles as suggested it is about $50 or more. So after 40,000 miles you have spent $200. On my Toyota they recommend changing every 3000 miles. I used Toyota the first time and they charged $53 for dino oil cheap grade. Since then I use MobilOne and it is less than $50 every 5000 miles. Still about $400 every 40,000 miles. Insurance and evidence if something does happen.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    iirc, the throttle bodies get clogged with carbon on the TDIs - gotta be replaced or have labor-intensive cleaning-process done.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited November 2012
    It is not the "throttle body" that gets clogged with carbon... it is the INTAKE MANIFOLD (IM). There are places which offer a "swap" wheras they send you a 'cleaned' IM and you send them your clogged one. This greatly reduces the cost/time to correct this situation.

    However, A simple change to the EGR settings thru the onboard computer can greatly limit this clogging. Also, with TDI, one *must* use FULL THROTTLE ACCELERATION at least one time per tankful to keep the carbon-buildup cleaned out.

    If you think having the IM cleaned out is expensive, try replacing a carbon-clogged turbocharger (over $1500 just for the part!!) It is far cheaper to blow the carbon out of the turbocharger with the throttle-pedal once in a while.

    My TDI is over 150,000 miles and no clogging.... This is testament that I am doing something right.
  • fho2008fho2008 Posts: 393
    I'll have to look at my records but is the DSG fluid/filter change part of the 40K service? I had the 40K done at the dealer, long weekend with relatives but I can look up exactly what was done later on.
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