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Hyundai Sonata 2006-2007



  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    The Japanese have stopped their "dumping" practices LONG ago... They just don't NEED it anymore, and haven't in the past 10 years, at least.... Maybe Detroit needs to start that practice?...

    And I don't know what Hyundai's "selling-out of the older models" you're talking about, targettuning.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    Well, the article seems to indicate the "older" Santa Fe's made in Korea are being heavily discounted. You are probably aware there is now a new version. The Elantra was just totally redesigned for 2007 so I presume there may be some of the older or previous design left on some lots. And finally while it has been a litle while the Accent was also totally redesigned and there MAY be some of the older versions of those around too. So yeah there are older models of at least three of Hyundai's model line-up that have been recently redesigned.
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    I almost bought my Silver 2007 Sonata I4 with premium package (power driver seat, etc.) for 17k OTD. The car is very clean with only 13 miles on it. The dealership has about 8 I4 Sonatas with different colors. I think the Silver color with the premium package is all I need at this time. The red color is also great. I almost chose the red one but I feel the silver is more conservative. I am 45 years old.

    I was lucky because before I signed the papers I received a call from another dealer I talked to him earlier. He told me to come for a lower price and a better rate. Then the war broke between the two dealers! I am not going to talk about that Hahahahaha. I was able to get it for $16300 including taxes and everything and it also includes the premium package with the many great features and mats. I figured out the price to be below 15500 given the tax is 5%. Also, I got a really low inetrest rate from Hyundai. This is unbelievable. A great car fully loaded for 15K. The dealership was great. They cleaned the car and filled the tank.
    The car drives straight without leaning toward right or left. It is stable at high speed without any steering shaking. As you know shaking in new cars is due to wheel alighnment in most cases. I went up to 80 miles per hour for a short period of time to test the car. I kept the speed below 60 mph most of the time.
    The Toyota Camry with the same specs will cost over 21K. There is over 5k in savings. This is significant. Also, Hyundai warranty is great. The price of the car plus the interest during the next 5 years is 2000 dollars less than the Camry.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Congratulations! You got a great deal, aalsherri. It's always the consumer's advantage when two dealers are fighting a war over him. I say: Make war, not love.

    Enjoy the car! And, btw, if you took the loan in order to get an extra Hyundai rebate (or dealer's discount) you can probably (it may differ from one state to another) REPAY your loan in full -- after one monthly payment...
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,923
    The IIHS just published a report on low-speed crash tests for mid-sized cars. The results show that the bumpers on today's cars don't do as well protecting other components as did bumpers from years ago, before standards were loosened. The Sonata finished 12th out of 17 in terms of overall repair cost, but it was the best performer in the "rear full" test. The article notes that Hyundai beefed up the rear bumper in anticipation of the tests.
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    Any one has information about the Sonata long term reliability? How about rust resistant and parts quality?
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    I got 6.50% interest rate from Hyundai. I was not qualified for the low 5.29% due to my score. BTW the rate is about 2 points less than the local bank quote.
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    I am a new owner as you know. I usually change the oil in my cars by myself to be sure I am doing a good job. I leave the car bleed till most of the oil is discharged (about 15 minutes) and change the filter whenever I change the oil. Now I am having a new car, what should I do?
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    I am planning to use sythetic oil after the break-in period. I don't mean the 2000 miles but the actual mileage when the pistons seat properly. I read it may take 20000 miles to reach that stage. Any opinions?
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    Congrats on your new Sonata. Keep doing what you have done in the past every 3000 miles. My only suggestion is buy the OEM Hyundai filter. Aftermarket filters can have a different pressure drop and cause knocking/ticking.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Long Term? The car has been around in the USA for less than 2 years, so obviously there is NO long term reliability information yet...

    But based on the TREND Hyundai has been showing with all of their products in past years, it is logical to expect GOOD scores.
  • morty66morty66 Posts: 9
    My 2006 Sonata does not have the outside temperature feature and I really miss that. Where is a good place to buy a mirror that has the outside temperature feature? I've already looked at Ebay. And any idea of how hard this is to install and how long it will take? Friend is a mechanic, and he thinks it will take less than an hour.
  • johnap2johnap2 Posts: 105
    I changed the oil at 3,000 miles with synthetic oil. I have changed it every 7-10k since that point. I have close to 30k miles on the car now. I noticed a very slight increase in fuel economy, but what I like best is not having to change it quite so frequently. I have also used the Pep Boys PureONE filter exclusively and not the OEM. Very well-constructed filter and I have no noise problems that others have complained about.

    By the way, I do not need to hear about the owners guide recommended oil change intervals. I've had enough oil analysis done in the past that I know for a fact the 3k change period is BS. No, I am not concerned with any warranty issues. :)
  • gy563gy563 Posts: 44
    Hey guys I got a quick question (sorta irrelevant but)
    if I change the audio system would I still be able to use steering wheel audio control?
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Why "sorta irrelevant"?....

    My logic says that if you use all the exsiting wiring to install a new audio system, everything should work OK.
  • wcw1wcw1 Posts: 44
    It would seem to me that it would depend on whether the new audio system has built in compatibility with the remote controls on the Hyundai. The remote controls were designed to be compatible with the OEM audio system. Check the new audio system before you buy if the remote controls are an issue with you.
  • not unless you buy the additional adaptor (PAC) for the steering wheel controls.
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    Highly unlikely, unless it was a special head unit designed to replace the existing model in the Hyundai. Check with You can also call their tech support and speak to someone about it.
  • duke16duke16 Posts: 36
    My mechanic a former Hyundai dealer master mechanic changed
    the oil only,in my '07 500 miles.Not the filter just
    the oil.Claims this is proper.There after he will change oil & filter every 3 months,since I don't put alot of miles on car.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    I'm no mechanic (a friend says I hardly know which end of a screwdriver to hold) but at only 500 miles on a new engine, I'd think changing the filter would be much more worth while than changing the oil.
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    Being that his friend was a master mechanic and probably "oldschool", Oil was recommend to be changed at around 500 miles (1st oil change) to remove the oil of metal particules that shave off in a new engine. As the engine gets more use, it will "smooth" out and the metal particules will be less. Those metal particules are removed asap to prevent it from causing unnecessary wear/damage in the engine. I would think that the filter should also be replaced at the same time too, But I'm not mechanic, just a backyard one. I had my first oil changed at 1100 miles.... but I also don't drive the car that much. Had mine for 11 mths and only 4100 miles on it.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,601
    It was the metal particles you mention that made me think changing the filter would be better than changing "just the oil." The oil wouldn't have broken down but the filter could have trapped these particles.
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    Exactly! Possibly resulting in a clogged or poor flowing filter. NOT GOOD! But the filter doesn't trap everything, which would be why you'd want to change both. In one of my previous cars ('77 Volvo), I had a magnetic oil drain plug which I would still get minute metal particles attached to it even though the car was over 20yrs old and 200K+ miles on it.
  • cableguy06cableguy06 Posts: 299

    Very nice...bought one in the past and it was fantastic. Excellent quality too!
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    How much metal did you find attached to the magnet? I know I would start worrying if I found a lot of metal on it. I may buy one for myself.
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    When I purchased my new motorcycle, I changed the filter and oil after 100 miles in order to get rid of the loose metal particles. Such particles can damage the bearings in a motorcycle but I have no idea about Sonata crank case. The dealer told me to bring the car after 3000 miles for "a free" oil change! Hahhahah
    Clever dealers
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    But any cheap small magnet and will do the job. BTW, it works also in automatic transmission.
  • aalsherriaalsherri Posts: 68
    I believe you should wait for at least 10000 miles. For motorcycles, you can start using synthetics after 3000 miles because the break-in period for sport motorcycles engines is shorter than in the auto engines. The reason is that the high performance motorcycle engine revs up to 16,000 rpm and it works in the 4000 to 10,000 rpm range most of the time. On te other hand, the auto engine works below 5000 rpm and it takes a longer period of time to break-in. I read an article long time ago that the auto engine may take over 30,000 miles to break in.
    For modern high performance auto engines, I feel a 20,000 miles is long enough.
    I bought a used Dodge Grand Caravan with over 150,000 miles on it. I started to use synthetic oil and the car is still running smooth. The mileage now is over 205,000 miles. After I bought it, I used DuraLube oil and I changed the transmission oil. I also used DuraLube transmission conditioner. The transmission is still in great shape. The bottom line is to take care of your car and it will serve you for a long time especially when you buy a new car like me.
    I read a story of a Saab car with over 1,000,000 miles on it. Yes one million miles on one engine with no rebuilding whatsoever. The owner mentioned that he changes the oil every 3000 miles and use synthetic oil.
  • wcw1wcw1 Posts: 44
    Changing to Synthetic Oil in a New Car
    I have a new car. I have read not to change to a synthetic oil until there are some miles on the engine to give the rings a chance to seat. How long should I wait or how many miles should it be before I change to synthetic oil? Thank you for your time.

    Modern vehicles can use Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil right from the factory. As evidence of this fact, more than 35 new car makes and models use Mobil 1 as factory fill. So there is no reason to wait to start enjoying the benefits of Mobil 1.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    Not true, any cheap magnet will NOT work for this application, and neither will magnetic drain plugs. For detailed reasons and more information on a magnet that will (and made specifically for the application) visit: I own several of these and talk about a powerful magnet. I bet a Honda service manager $50.00 that he could NOT pull one of these off a filter I had just bought...I was in for an oil change on our 2006 Civic and was adding one of these for the first time...he could NOT and neither could anyone else he called from the shop to try. No, I didn't collect the money as I was just trying to demonstrate the FilterMag. BTW FilterMag also makes a magnet specifically for auto transmission pans too.
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