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2007 Toyota Camry



  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,233
    >346,000 Camrys were built in Kentucky through October per the Toyota Pressroom site. I'll bet 345,000 of the owners are happy and the rest have posted in this forum.

    You are making the extreme unlike assumption that all people complaining are currently posting their complaints on this forum and are the only ones who have a problem car. And you assume the happy people are too busy to post here.

    I treat the posting as more a sampling of the balance of those who realize they have a problem in a car and those who don't realize a problem is there or don't care and post because they want everyone to know they made a good choice in their car purchase and are, of course, happy with their perfect car.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "because there is a "delay" in throttle response..."

    "...that is a driver issue, not a vehicle issue...."

    Baring other issues, considerations, I would have my software team fix any complaints of this type INSTANTLY, not allow the complaints to be ongoing for what, 2003 til...??

    No, there is an underlying reason Toyota and Lexus have programmed a delay into the DBW system under certain circumstances, circumstances very adequately described, apparently, in the '93 Camry TSB.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Hi all:
    I just had the 20,000 mile service performed on the Camry. Since I do an extensive amount of driving on the highway, in addition to the oil and filter change, I had them check the brakes, flush the hydraulic brake system, rotate the tires and check the four wheel alignment. (The Camry will be one year old in January).
    The vehicle is still a pleasure to drive. There are no issues with the automatic transmission. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I make it a point to warm-up the vehicle, while I remove the snow and ice from the windshield. The one thing that I do not like about the vehicle is the recessed windshield wipers. The ice and snow gets caught in the wipers, and under the hood! This can be a problem to remove. (Some warm water helps the process. Do not use HOT water!!!!! )
    At the next service in Feb., I will have the automatic trans fluid changed. (Just some quality preventive maintenance). This should be done every 20,000 miles or once a year which every comes first, (especially if the vehicle sees "stop and go driving" on a regular basis.)

    Wishing you a beautiful Holiday Season and a New Year of Peace and Happiness. ------------ MERRY CHRISTMAS AND A VERY HAPPY, HEALTHY & SUCCESSFUL NEW YEAR!
    Best regards -------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :) :D
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    Who recommended an auto trans fluid change at 20,000 miles? Your dealer? The service manual interval is what, 100,000 miles? If you do it before 50,000 miles, you're wasting your money.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Good Morning Imacmil:
    Kindly be advised that the dealer recommends that the automatic transmission fluid be changed every 30,000 miles. Since I put on the mileage very quickly, it is just easier for me to do this service on or about the delivery date of the vehicle every year. As we all know from the postings on these boards, the transmission on the Camry is NOT its strong point! ---------- I will be doing alot of driving between now and Feb., so at the time of the trans service, I will have about 25,000 miles on the vehicle. I need to do the service when I have the free time. Next year at this time, the vehicle will probably have between 40,000 and 45,000 miles. I don't drink or smoke, so I guess that I spend my money on extreme vehicle maintenance. (My body appreciates my decision about drinking and smoking, and my vehicle operates like the day I drove it out of the showroom.) It is a "win / win" situation!!!!!!! --------------- Best regards and Merry Christmas ------------- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    Ok Dwayne. I guess doing more maintenance than necessary is better than the contrary. Just be aware that most dealers make more money on service than on new/used car sales so it's in their best interest (not yours) to recommend service more often than the manufacturer. I'm glad you are enjoying your Camry. I like mine too. :)
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Hi all:
    Is anyone using a fuel additive for winter driving? A friend of mine is using a product called "Lucas Fuel Treatment"! ---- He uses 3 ounces for every 10 gallons of fuel. He claims that this product keeps the fuel system clean, and it lubricates the fuel system components.
    Best regards & Happy Holidays. ----- Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Steal his can of fuel additive and fill it with pump fuel and see if he notices.

    Snake oil...
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    I would be more hesitant to purchase from a no-namie station than to worry about additives.

    I tend to buy exclusively from a large marketer and periodically I switch up the brand as one formulation of fuel system additive is probably not good, but rather better to switch.

    I do recommend a bottle of fuel injector cleaner every 45K or so.

    Let me add this about your desire to change your engine oil often than everyone else thinks is necessary... I agree with them.

    I have a Honda Accord and Honda Odyssey. I change the oil in both. I run a bit of extra oil into the pan when changing mine to remove additional old oil on each change after I've let the old stuff pour out.

    Even going 5-7K between changes, I can tell my oil is still in pretty good shape. I use the weight of oil recommended and a decent brand oil, and I use a good filter. I am fairly certain for both vehicles, changing on a 3K interval would be much much too often.

    For me, a transmission fluid change at 30-45K is also a wise periodic maintenance item to extend the longevity of the vehicle.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    At every oil change I check the transmission fluid condition, if it appears to be pink and clear I'm good to go.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,233
    I'm sure you are using name brand quality fuels since you take good care of your cars as you've said in the past.

    I toss in a can in Techron fuel system cleanrer or injector cleaner maybe twice a year just in case something from those off brand stations I rarely use any more left some undesirable contaminant behind. Also the Techron takes care of sulphur effects on the fuel pumps (it says on the bottle).

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    I generally use a "Top Tier" gas, in my area that's Phillips 66 or Shell. The Top Tier formulation was developed by some of the major oil companies and car manufacturers (GM & Toyota to name two) to keep fuel systems clean. I also dump in a bottle of Techron at each oil change.
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Hi All:
    I just got back from a road trip to Gettysburg Pa. My vehicle has just about 24,000 miles and I just made an appointment for the 25,000 mile service. The vehicle averaged 30 mpg on the highway traveling at 55 to 65 mph. The transmission shifts properly and the engine is very responsive.
    At this service interval, I will have the engine oil and filter changed and the tires rotated. I rotate the tires every 5,000 miles. I spent two days in Gettysburg, and I made it a point to check the engine oil level prior to starting out each day. The oil level was at the "full mark" and it was clean. I have never had to add oil to this engine, (between oil changes), since I purchased this vehicle new!
    I recognized that there are Camrys out there with problems, but my vehicle seems to be operating properly at the present point in time. Based on my experience with this vehicle and the selling dealer, I would purchase another Camry in the future. Both the ride and the performance of this vehicle is great.
    Best regards. -------------Dwayne :shades: ;) :)
  • I was wondering if anybody was having problems with the heating/ac thermostat. When my temperature is set at 67, it is actually registering 100 on a thermometer. The dealership is giving me the run-around as to what the problem could be. When I lower the temp from 67 to 65 there's no change. But when I set the temperature on low it becomes frigid. I'd appreciate knowing if anyone else has had similar problems. Thanks
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    At just what "point", location, are you measuring the air temperature with a thermometer..??

    On a cold day 100F airflow at the exit from the footwell outflow ducts might be perfectly normal,
  • The mechanic put the thermometer by the vent. You are saying that when it registers 100F when the temperature is set for 65F-67F it is normal? I understand that the temperature at the vent is not the same as the air temperature in the car, but 100F. Then why am I so uncomfortable in the car and why can't I regulate the temperature? I've had several Camry's and never had a problem like this. One mechanic tells us not to put it on auto; the next mechanic tells us it must be set on auto to work-and these were mechanics in the same Toyota service center.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Automatic climate control mode is simply a compromise, a poor one in the case of NipponDenso or Denso US designs, across the huge spectrum of humanity's desire for "comfort".

    There is an inside, cabin, air temperature sensor mounted somewhere near the from seat passengers, in a Toyota or Lexus most often behind a small "window" above the driver's right knee.

    If your temperature setpoint is, say 72F, and the cabin has not yet warmed to that level the system airflow, OUTFLOW, will almost always be above your setpoint. The farther the cabin air temperature is away from your setpoint the greater the difference will be but not usually to the point of actual discomfort.

    The other thing important is the OAT, Outside Air Temperature. Only the manufacturer really know the OVERALL heat transfer coefficient of the vehicle and it may well take 100F airflow from the footwell outlets to keep the interior at 72F if it is cold outside, REALLY cold outside.

    And there is an aspect of the human comfort equation, a HUGE aspect, that NO modern day system that I know of takes into account.

    Loss of body heat via radiant "cooling", in reality the lack, sometimes COMPLETE lack, of incoming radiant heating from the surrounding landscape.

    When I get into my '01 RX300 on a cold day, sub-40F, I use the following procedure.

    1. A/C OFF (***1), FRESH inlet airflow mode and seat heating on HIGH.
    2. HVAC system on automatic but with setpoint at max heat.
    3. When the blower starts up (delayed until the engine coolant reaches ~130F) then I immediately over ride the outlet airflow mode to footwell and windshield (***2) mode.
    4. I then lower the blower speed to something not quite as intrusive, noise wise, as it would be were it left in automatic.
    5. As the cabin warms and my comfort level rises I continuously lower the temperature setpoint until it is somewhat above what I would normally consider (at home) my personal comfort level, 75F vs 72F.

    My final temperature setpoint, as well it should be, is very much a function of BOTH the radiant effects of the surrounding landscape AND cabin air temperature.

    Left to its own "resources" the system would automatically switch into "cooling" mode, either combined footwell and dash outlet airflow or if the cabin air temperature is/becomes close enough to your setpoint it will switch into dash outlet airflow ONLY. Brrrrr....

    Forcing the use of combined footwell and windshield air outflow has a few non-obvious advantages. Depending on outside temperature and roadspeed the interior surface of the windshield might be cooled, CHILLED even, to the dewpoint of the cabin atmosphere wherein condensation would begin to form, sometimes so quickly that safety is compromised.

    Using the combined mode the interior windshield surface will be kept warmed and the resultant airflow reflected toward the front seat passengers will be only somewhat cooled and therefore not as discomforting as would be the more COOL airflow that would otherwise result from the system entering "cooling" mode automatically.

    ***1 As of '01 the RX300 has a C-BEST option wherein the A/C can be disabled indefinitely simply by switch it off once. Prior to that I always disconnected the A/C compressor clutch circuit during the winter months.

    ***2 When the system enters either partial or full windshield defrost/defog/demist mode the A/C almost always made operational, oftentimes with no indication of same to teh driver. Here again in '01 the RX300 had a C-BEST option that will UNLINK the A/C from operating automatically.

    Since '01 Toyota/lexus have added at least one more C-BEST option of importance here. The system can be set so it will not automatically switch from heating mode to cooling mode as the cabin air temperature rises closer and closer, close enough to your temperature setpoint.

    Again, there are non-obvious advantages to this new C-BEST feature. In footwell mode a portion of the system airflow is ALWAYS diverted to the interior surface of the windshield to help keep it warmed above dewpoint. Once the system automatically switches into partial or full cooling mode there is no method provided for keeping the windshield interior surface warmed above dewpoint.

    So for safety's sake ALWAYS leave the system in footwell mode when the OAT is below ~45F or if the radiant effects of the surrounding landscape are at a body "cooling" level.

    More recent Toyota/Lexus product have yet another feature in this regard. These newer systems will automatically switch (back..) into heating mode wherein teh interior surface of the windshield will be continuously warmed if the OAT declines below ~35F.
  • paul2007paul2007 Posts: 1
    i tried turn off vsc camry 2007
    1.) Start the car with parking brake on.
    2.) all within 30 seconds, depress and release the brake pedal twice.
    3.) immediately, de-activate and re-engage the parking brake twice.
    4.) the VSC/trac light on the dash will light, the VSC/trac is now deactivated until you restart the car.
    this not work in my car 2007 camry v6
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    That procedure only works on alternate Thursdays... ;)
  • jptpajptpa Posts: 11
    I want to replace the 16" factory wheels and hubcaps with 17" SE wheels. I will buy rims and tires, but what about the TPS sensors? Can I re-use tho ones in the factory wheels?

    If I buys 16" alloys from Toyota, can I re use the TPS sensors?

    Thanks for the info.
  • adamw812adamw812 Posts: 32
    I replaced my wheels and hubcaps with the XLE/Hybrid 8 spoke alloy wheels, the TPM Sensors transferred over without a problem.
  • jptpajptpa Posts: 11
    Were the hybrid rims the same rim size? The LE standard rims are 16".
  • gene22gene22 Posts: 34
    I tried another method posted here. No luck. did this one and it turned off.

    I have this situation when I brake that it seems like a drum out of round. Nobody can figure it out, and it does not 'seem" to do it all the time. Will try it without the VSC engaged and see what happens.

    (replying to post #2840)
  • gene22gene22 Posts: 34
    Turned off VSC okay. Seems like it was better, but not all the time. I keep driving with it on, then off, then on. Problem is still there. Really feels like brake drum our of round, but 3 different shops have found no problem.

    Can you disengage the ABS?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have you considered that your front brake rotors could be warped from excessive heat?
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    You are much more likely to feel the effect of a warped rotor or one with thickness variation than an out-of-round drum. In fact, it's very unlikely that a drum would develop that condition on its own.

    I once bought cheap aftermarket drums and they were out of round by .030" I could feel that. It only takes a few thousandths of rotor thickness variation to feel it in the pedal.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    There are no drums on a 2007 Camry, all 4 wheels are rotors.
  • Yesterday my maintenance required check light came on and for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to clear this message. All it is supposed to do is remind me to change my oil (which needs no reminding).

    According to the manual, you set the odometer on Trip A, make sure the ignition is set to ON, and depress the Trip A reset until the message indicates its reset(about 5 seconds). Now I have the push button ignition which may complicate things a little but still, following the manual direction it will not reset. :mad:

    Any suggestions or pointers.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    I don't know, I just followed the manual and never had a problem.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    You're not doing it correctly. From a previously saved post:

    Begin with the odometer in the normal mode (total accumulated miles, not trip A or trip B mode). Turn the car off, press the trip/odometer "stick" and keep pressing it while turning the ignition key (push button in your case) back to the on position (you don't need to start the engine).

    As you continue to press the stick in, the odometer will count down from 5 or 6 dashes to blank, and then the actual mileage will show again. At that point, release the stick and the light should go out.
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