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BMW M3 Maintenance and Repair



  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,416
    I'm always glad to help a fellow BMW owner!

    A limited-slip or locking differential will supply power to the wheel(s) that have the best traction. A diff without a limited slip or locking mechanism will feed all the power to the wheel that has no traction. Your car has a very sophisticated LSD called the M differential lock.

    The best way to find out what is going on is to leave it at the dealer overnight so that a tech can replicate the problem- although note that the M diff is inherently noisy even when it is working properly. Sometimes changing the differential oil will cure or at least minimize the symptoms.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • Hi,

    My M3 now has about 92,000 miles. I am starting to have some power train issue that I'm not sure if it is a major concern.

    1) Since last year, my oil light on the cluster will come on once in awhile even though the oil and filter is not due for a change and the oil level is normal. When I turn the car off, and back on again, the light disappear. Is is a bad oil pressure sensor or is it something more serious like a bad oil pick up or oil pump?

    2) When I cold start the car, I can hear a slight tapping and disappear pretty quickly. But if the engine is warm, i don't hear a tapping noise. Do I need a valve adjustment or something more serious.

    3) My transmission is manual. Every so often, I cannot shift into gear 1 to 4 and it feels like is only in half way. Once awhile, I would mistakenly think that it was in gear and the shifter bounce back to neutral when I step on the gas. Then I would realize that it was not in all the way. But it does not happen too frequently and once it is in gear, then it does not pop back out. Do I need to bleed the clutch or change tranny oil. Or is it something major like needing a new set of clutch even though it is not slipping or need to replace the synchro on the tranny?

    Any advice will be appreciated.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,870
    yes! your valves ARE adjustable!

    As for the transmission, I'd drain the oil and use a synthetic oil and how how it behaves.

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  • I also have had this same problem. Fob originally didn't work (purchased used).
    I only got one key/fob. When I opened the fob to replace the battery I found the bracket/contact that holds the battery was broken away from the circuit board. I heated the existing solder points back up and reattached the bracket/contact. Voila! fixed... but then found it had the same problem as yours, so I guess I just assumed that maybe the re-solder wasn't so great or was getting weak power/signal problems. Is the problem in the fob or the alarm system? I know they have some other common electrical problems like the connection with the capacitor on the climate control circuit board.
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