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Chevy Suburban



  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I have had a similar prob with my 03 Burb, at times, 4wd lights will blink, then I get a SERVICE 4WD message on the DIC. This message usually clears with an on/off cycle, then 4wd will work fine. If you find out your problem, let me know, I know mine will eventually get worse.
  • For those of us that have Vehicles that are 2003 or earlier, On Star service is not available after the end of the year. Depending on your vehicle 2004-2005, you may be able to get the service and 2007 are OK. This has to do with the FCC's stipulation about wireless companies being compliant from analog to digital by 2008. Unfortunately, On Star didn't take them seriously to spend the $$ to implement these changes in our vehicles until 2006, even though the consumers were footing the bill for the equipment. On the website (, there is more information about this. I just got my letter in the mail.... Just thought I'd share the wealth and a tip to the savvy investor, do you have any idea what this is going to do to there bottom line losing subscribers of all vehicles prior to 2003 and sporadic coverage for those owners of 2004/2005. I've thought about buying a module from a totaled 2006 Suburban and seeing if I could convert it work with my 2000 burb.
  • I brought it to the dealer and they said that my switch was broken
  • I wouldn't say that OnStar didn't take them seriously. The more likely reason for the carryover (and soon incompatible) systems in some vehicles is that they had already ordered and *paid for* XX of the modules in quesion, and had them in stock. It's nearly always more cost effective for the vehicle manufacturer to exhaust the existing supply of parts before putting in the latest design when both will fit the vehicle in question. A good example of this is that my 2007 Avalanche (early order / production) has the same tiedowns in the bed as the pre-2007 models (flip up/down, fold flat against the bedside when not in use). Models made later now have a completely different tiedown part (looks cheaper to make, and lacks the flip up/down / fold flat against bedside thing, if not necessarily weaker).

    Getting that out of the way, it still hurts the consumer. In many cases 2003+ models have an available upgrade through OnStar now (installed by dealerships) to fix the OnStar problem. But it also requires some sort of commitment to OnStar for at least a year (not up to date on the exact plan there). In other words, if you're willing to pay for a year or more in advance (even getting whatever special rate is in effect- so it's not costing any extra, just costing up front), you may be able to get your system upgraded at your dealership.

    And for those thinking of trying to swap out their own system for one from a junked vehicle, it is likely possible. I've read of other people successfully doing just this with their own vehicles.

    Good luck!
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    How much did they want for a new switch???
    Also, do you mean the actual in dash buttons/switch, or the actual actuator on the transfer case?
    thanks again for the info.
  • I have a '96 K1500. It has no lift, very standard. The tires on it are sized P245/75/16. I need new tires and am looking to put the biggest ones possible without making ANY modifications. A friend told me that I could put P265/70/16 on there and they would fit fine.

    Can anyone verify this?


  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I have a 97-K1500, and the original sales brochures. All of the tire options are LT245/75R-16'x', even for the K2500's. There are tire calculators on a number of the tire websites, which will give you the dimensions of the different tire sizes. You can see how much bigger it would be.
  • Sorry I don't know for sure but I think it was the actual in dash switch. Through the dealer I paid about $350 total (parts/labor)
  • f1102f1102 Posts: 1
    i have a brake problem. i replaced rotors,drums,pads,shoes,calipers and the right front still grabs causing a pull to the right. when i use the parking brake to stop there is no pulling.what else could cause this.
  • joebasjoebas Posts: 20
    Folks, I'm about to trade in, anyone out there with 2007 LTZ? How do you like it??
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Posts: 107
    i am sort of developing the same problem with my 88 suburban. cant seem to figure out whats wrong with it.
    it might just be the front end alignment, or a tie rod is worn and the brake pressure pulls the wheel slightly.
  • Hey guys I have a 1998 Suburban and I was going to replace my front door speakers but ran into a problem, I couldn't seem to figure out how to get the door panel off revealing the factory speakers. All replys are appreciated!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you prying the trim panel off? They have clips behind the trim panel. There are 4 down across the bottom, either 3 or 4 up the front side edge, two black screws in the middle of the door (part of the inside door where you grab it to close), take out the courtesy lamp, carefully pry out the trim panel.

    I have a 97, but I think it's the same for a 98
  • bretdqbretdq Posts: 1
    I used to own a 99 Suburban and looking for another. I will be pulling a trailer with weights 6,000 to 9,000lbs. I have found an 04 2500 w/8.1 but the unknown fuel mileage is holding me back I have also looked at the 1500 Z71 02-04 models. Any suggestions?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    The 2500 model is the 3/4 ton Suburban with the big engine, right? If you were used to a 350 ci (5.7) engine that was probably in your '99 you won't be happy with the 5.3 standard V-8. The 5.3 runs fine and makes more horsepower but just doesn't have the balls that the older 350 ci (5.7) engines or the older 454 V-8s have when it comes to towing. As far as economy goes, none of them are going to get great gas mileage if you are towing. Just bite the bullet and get a Suburban 2500 model with the bigger engine.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    A 1500 would be overlimit towing 9000lbs. You could do it on the rare occasion, but it won't be much fun.
    I tow a ~6500 lb boat with my 03 1500, 5.3L. So here's my 2 cents, it tows great on flats and mild to moderate inclines, steep grades really slow you down. Overall I am happy with its towing performance, and consider it a great overall package (best economy/ towing performance).
    I previously had a 96 2500 Suburban with 7.4L. Both had 3.73 gears. The only time I miss the 7.4L is on steep, long grades. I get about 10-11 MPG towing with the 03, depending on speed, I got 7-8 MPG with the 96.
    That said I wouldn't want to tow anything over 7000 lbs on a regular basis with a 1500 model.

    If you are relly going to tow 9000 lbs, I'd get the 2500 with the 8.1L, you'll get 11-12 mpg empty, and 8 or so towing. Not a huge loss over the 13-16 empty in the 5.3L.
  • I'm having the exact same problem with my '01 Tahoe. What solution did you find?


    David :surprise:
  • msidemanmsideman Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 burb 3/4 ton, with the 6.0 and 373 rear end.
    I just sold a 7,000lb travel trailor and it pulled it with a hitch. That being said I just purchaced a 2004 Cardinal 31 bh Travel Trailor that will weigh in at9,000lb. Will probly go to a 4.10 rear end. If i were buying today I would look for a 8.1 for serious towing, but the 6.0 is pretty good. Towing with the 3/4 ton is much much better than the half ton, the supension is awesome. Enjoy
  • jnevinsjnevins Posts: 1
    I have a 93 with 246,000 and just now developed a transmission problem. It just happen yesterday, when I left for work the truck would do 50 mph however the rpm was 3k. I'll drain & flush the transmission this weekend & change the filter and inspect the TDV cable.
  • I have this ticking sound when I am going slow, it sounds like its in the front by the tires. I know that it needs brakes, but not sure what this sound is. I don't want to get robbed when I take it in. It sounds like metal ticking...if that helps any. When I go faster I don't hear it any more. Can anyone help me out on this? Thanks Guys!
  • paulctpaulct Posts: 16
    I just picked up a 2007 Suburban LTZ and noticed that the windshield is distorted. There are slight waves and variations horizontally across that windshield. Images tend to grow and shrink as you move your line of vision slightly up and down. It doesn't matter if you are the driver or passenger. I'm aware of windshield problems in GM vehicles back in the 90's but I thought GM had it fixed. Does anyone have the same experience? Thanks.
  • macman246macman246 Posts: 118
    We had the windshield on our '07 Yukon Denali replaced under warranty for the same reason. The distortion was right at eye level but only on the driver's side. Our salesman was playing stupid, but the service manager sided with us.
  • spence57spence57 Posts: 26
    I have an 03 suburban. I've left other messages but had some more "experience". My sub. sometimes won't coldstart with less than 1/2 tank of gas but this may be a seperate problem.
    For over a year now I've had a very intermittent stalling problem. It actually doesn't stall but usually won't run over 500 rpm. It won't get better until I shut down and wait 15 min. or so. I now know to stop and bang on the bottom of the tank and it will always go fine. Yesterday I had the problem and didn't shut down, just banged on the tank. It wouldn't do better than a rough idle even trying that twice. I had to actually shut off the engine. My 75 year old mechanic Dad told me he's had a similar problem with his truck and thinks that the pump sucks debris onto the screen in the tank. When the engine is off, the debris drops off and drops off faster if one shakes the tank by banging it.
    Just changing the pump wouldn't help, you would have to totally clean out the tank. I think I accidentally put dirt into mine when I transferred fuel from my boat into it.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    spence57 said: My 75 year old mechanic Dad told me he's had a similar problem with his truck and thinks that the pump sucks debris onto the screen in the tank. When the engine is off, the debris drops off and drops off faster if one shakes the tank by banging it.
    Just changing the pump wouldn't help, you would have to totally clean out the tank.
    I had this happen years ago on a '68 Dodge Charger. I got a tank full of bad gas with water in it. I would be rolling down the road and the engine would quit. After 15 or 20 minutes it would start again and run for perhaps 30 minutes then stop again. The water in the tank turns into a jelly-like glob and that mess would get sucked into the filter and stop the good gas from entering. The solution was to take the gas tank off the car and totally clean and rinse it out. Also you may have to clean out the lines to your fuel injection system. I did that, no more problem.
  • Have you had an answer to your problem? I have a 97 Suburban where you can hear the heater/ac fan run (through all speed setting) but very little air comes out any place (defrost, vent, or floor). Any thoughts?
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    The guy at Kwik Kar told my wife that the freeze plug is cracked and leaking coolant. I find this unlikely given that we live in Texas, and the car (2005 Yukon XL, 5.3) has seen maybe 10 days below freezing its entire life. He said there was coolant leaking and topped it off. I haven't noticed any fluids in the garage, but I must admit that I haven't checked under the hood in quite some time. Guess I'll watch it closely for the next few weeks. My questions to the forum:
    1) Is this a common issue? (I searched and found no other posts containing "freeze plug")
    2) Where is it? I'd like to inspect it for myself, although I'm not the most mechanically inclined person I know. What does it look like? Rubber, plastic, or metal?
    3) Is this expensive to replace? Or difficult to do on my own?
    5) Recommend using some sort of stop leak fluid?

    Thanks for any responses!

    Ft. Worth, TX
  • The guy at Kwik Kar told my wife that the freeze plug is cracked and leaking coolant
    If the freeze plug is leaking you should find coolant on the vehicle frame and/or engine block...and there should be some coolant on the garage floor. This should be a pretty easy replacement for a qualified mechanic.
  • my 2001 8.1L Suburban goes into safe mode (reduced engine power)quite often while driving. The code it gives is manufacturer control fuel air metering. I have replaced the following sensors: MAF, TPS,Crank angle sensor,Cam angle sensor, every possible filter, and the whole throttle body. When I replace the throttle body it runs good for a few months, then it starts all over again. It does this at any given time, cold, warm, @ acceleration, steady speed,sometimes even at idle. Anyone ever experience anything like this?
  • I have a 2001 8.1L with a clanking noise in the front end (I believe). It sounds like a suspension problem but I can't seem to find it. Anyone have some Ideas?
  • I was driving last night and it slipped out of gear. so i pulled over and went to put it in park and it made a clicking noise so i turned it off in neutral put it in park and started it up again and no gear worked so i got it flat beded home and put it in 4 hi and it worked put it back in 2 hi and now it works. what could be the problem?
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