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Chevy Suburban



  • It almost sound like something in the ignition circuit (possibly a loose wire) or the starter itself. I too have a 2000 burb and had probs with mine not starting, but it was written off to my remote start "burned up" the ignition system. (Personally, i don't think it was what did it, but when you have a 4300 lb paperweight sitting at the GM dealer, sometimes it's best to nod your head and ask them to get you back on the road!) One thing you can try, at least we used to be able to do it with our old high school vehicles, is take a hammer and tap on the starter underneath the vehicle to see if it magically starts. This may be a way to troubleshoot the starter/circuit issue. Good Luck! :shades:
  • Just bought a 1993 chevy burb. The dome lights do not work. The lights under the hood, the dash lights, and the door lights that light up the window buttons work also. I have checked the fuses, and they all seem to be fine. I do not want to go to a dealer or a mechanic. I want to fix myself. Can anyone help me. Also, on a side note, when I drive the burb, she runs great and drives great. The thing is is that when I go to stop the rear end makes a noise like something is loose. What could that be. I would appreciate any help possible.
  • I have a 3 suburban i just bought. All the gauges worked well, and read normal. Today I went and sprayed out the engine compartment because of all the dust from living in the mojave desert. Now my gas gauge is not reading right, my mph speedometer bounces like crazy, and when i am in park and hit the electric door lock button, my speedometer jumps also, and my headlights flicker. Anyone got any solutions to fix this problem. HELP ME!!! :mad: :confuse:
  • replaced the rotors, calipers and pads and still pulls to the left.
    when i jack it up and test the wheels they both seem to lock at
    the same time and they release just fine when letting off the peddle.
    the only things left to change would be the rubber hoses and the valve
    any help would be great? I need to add that this all started after a panic
    stop while pulling a loaded car trailer.
  • it's the rubber hose from the frame to the caliper. it deteriorates on the inside. replace both.
  • sboorse said: Today I went and sprayed out the engine compartment because of all the dust from living in the mojave desert. Now my gas gauge is not reading right, my mph speedometer bounces like crazy, and when i am in park and hit the electric door lock button, my speedometer jumps also, and my headlights flicker.
    Sounds to me like you have water in some parts of the electrical system that controls the above-mentioned functions. Get an air hose and blow out the entire engine compartment and around all the electrical boxes, connections, etc. If that doesn't do it you should head for a competent auto electrical shop and have them check it out.
  • it sounds like you have a loose terminal must have came lose when you tried to jump the vehicle. make sure you tighten the screws on the clamp real good with a small wrench or key. good luck
  • try this !!! check your battery terminals. make sure both clamps are connected to the terminal really tight. use a small wrench to tighten it and make sure there are no crystalline buildup. good luck
  • get a volt meter and test to see if the line to the fuse is live or not. check your rear brakes and all the parts around the wheel hubs.
  • check the idler arm or the ball joint. this could affect steering alot. especially when you pull a load, there is tounge weigh which lift up the frontend....hence it put alot of wear and tear on the steering mechanisms and that can cause uneven steering. good luck
  • you need to bring it in to an oil change outfit. for around $89 they will perform a fluid exchange from a 100 gallon container while the engine is running and the transmission is in park position. This is the only way to flush out transmission fluid in the torque converter. good luck.
  • check your may be not putting out the correct voltage. when you are in the city the engine rpm is very low. with a faulty alternator, you might not have enough juice to your fan blower. worth a try. good luck
  • try to replace fuel filter or fuel may be weak. when you go at higher speed, it require the fuel pump to work harder. i am guessing too!!!
  • it will fit but you don't want to put bigger tires without any don't want the tires to rub the wheel housing if you have a heavy load. good luck
  • both door switches went out on my 94
  • Hi folks! New here... what kind of gas mileage are other 95 Suburban's getting out there? I have a 3/4 ton 4x4 and we live at mile about sea level. I am getting 8 miles to the gallon at best! I do have a little bit bigger tire than stock... Kinda in shock as I just gave up a 16 m/gal 4Runner. My husband's friend says I am getting about right. Husband has already checked the fuel injectors and we are gonna throw on a K&N Filter. Any suggestions out there?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You should have a look at Chevrolet Suburban and GMC Tahoe MPG - Real World Numbers.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Please, please let me know if you figure this one out. I have a 2002 Suburban with the 8.1 liter engine that just started doing the exact same thing. No engine codes or nothing. I have been bleeding the fuel line before every start by using the little tire valve type bleeder on top of the fuel rail but now realize that probably isn't doing anything more than just the mere passage of time. This is an extremely aggravating problem as it is the wife's vehicle and she is not well equipped for getting stranded. Any help solving this one may actually help many of us.
  • I have a '94 with the big block and I only get maybe 8 to 10 mpg. I have an open flow K&N, Doug Thorley headers and a custom dual exhaust. Added a little horse power but not much in milage. May want to try the 6 pack computer module (I think Jet Performance makes it) that will let you dial to economy settings when on a long trip to save a little.
  • Have U tried hitting the bottom of the fuel tank? Have U tried using ether? Is there spark when it's trying to start? How full was your tank? Used drygas?
  • I get 12 to 16 mpg with a 1/2 ton 03 4x4. You might check your vacuum lines for leaks. That could alter the advance timing and cut your economy. It's also possible that you have a restriction in the exhaust that cutting power. See if there's a pressure buildup compared to other vehicles. Your cat. converter could be clogged.
  • First, check to make sure you have good vacuum. Next, I had a problem with the selecter vent just inside the firewall from the blower. The vent deflector is made of fiber and the control is metal with rivets. The rivets pulled thru and the vent would not shut completely. This left air flow where it wasn't selected for. I made a tin clip to fit over the top of the vent and riveted it on. Also, the ductwork going up to the defroster is a poor design and leaks air the whole way around at the connector. This was the same on every Suburban I checked. You have to wrap the ductwork with a sealer tape. Hope this helps.
  • I also have a 2001 3/4 ton Sub. with the 8.1L and I do have the same intermittent starting problem. It seems to be a fuel delivery problem, if you use ether it will usually start and run fine. In my case I know it's not the fuel pump, filter or in any of the lines, it seems to be the computer control for the injectors. For what ever reason, it doesn't seem to get enough fuel to start (or possibly start for 1/2 a second & die). I did change the throttle body for another reason and the problem dissapeared for about 1yr. then it came back. It could have something to do with that.
  • again I have an '01 3/4 ton 8.1L it has a clunk in the front end when you take off, let of the gas quickly or hit a bump the right way. I replaced the intermediate shaft & the ball joints, checked the steering linkages even the pitman arm & idler arm. I am @ my witts end, please help me!
  • rustyk1rustyk1 Posts: 4
    Freeze plugs are located in the engine block below the heads, they are round metal cup-like plugs. If cracked(I've never seen this, more likely dislodged) you will see fluid on the floor of your garage. not hard to replace, but might be hard to access. to replace. use a long punch and hammer. tap in one side of plug, when it is knocked in grab the edge with pliers and pull it out. to replace, line it up and tap in with hammer until flush with block. they also make rubber center ones that slip in and tighten with a bolt that is in the rubber
    . hope this helps
  • tsf7tsf7 Posts: 31
    Hello. I am shopping for an 04-06 Yukon XL/Suburban, 1/2 ton 5.3 with SLT/LT package. Part of the reason for the purchase will be to tow a travel trailer, so I want to make sure I buy something with the necessary hardware for towing. Does anyone know if there was a "tow package" for trucks in these years, and if so, what parts did it add (trans. cooler, class IV hitch, trailer brake pre-wiring, 3.73 or 4.10 gears, ect). What is the "trailering preparation package", which the trucks I drove (05 'Burb, '05 YXL, '04 YXL) appear to have (I have noticed that every truck I have looked at had a receiver w/ 7-pin harness, but I have not remembered to look for a transmission cooler.)

    Of course, the salesmen are little or no help in answering these questions, and just "assure" me that it will do the trick, so I though I'd ask you all.

    Thanks in advance.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    tsf7 said: Does anyone know if there was a "tow package" for trucks in these years, and if so, what parts did it add (trans. cooler, class IV hitch, trailer brake pre-wiring, 3.73 or 4.10 gears, ect).
    I have an '06 Chev Suburban LS with the 5.3 engine and 4 x 4. Here's what came standard: Smart Select Package, includes (AJ7) Air bags, side-impact, (PDC) Cargo Package, (G80) Differential, locking rear axle and (Z82) Trailering equipment, heavy-duty, includes trailering hitch platform, 7-lead wiring connector, auxiliary transmission oil cooler and trailer brake pre-wire harness.
    This equipment is standard on all LS 4 x 4 models, not sure about 2 x 4. I have the 3.42 rear end gears. For serious trailering you should probably opt for the 3.73 gears that are available in the 1500 series (1/2 ton). I think you might even be able to get 4.10 gears in the 2500 series (3/4 ton). The 2500 series also offers a bigger engine.
  • flyb412flyb412 Posts: 4
    Fuel is seeping up through/around the purge valve cap. I've replaced the valve, cleaned the unit, to no avail. Can I replace it with a newer version filter/separator unit? Any suggestions/advice will be greatly appreciated!
  • gracyegracye Posts: 6
    I have a 94' burb and need to know how to set the clock since time has changed and I need to know how to program the radio (set stations) My burb has original equipment.

    Thanks for your help.

  • jbran95jbran95 Posts: 10
    I just got my truck back from the dealer and it seems that there is an electronic module that puts out 5V DC to start the engine but then the voltage should change after starting. On my Sub. it didn't change causing it to start and immediatly stall. They told me it was due to the remote car starter but it seems that the unit can also be defective as they replaced mine.
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