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Chevy Suburban



  • Anyone know how to replace a foglight assembly on a 2001 Chevy Suburban 4WD 2500?

    I found that the driver side foglight lens on my Suburban is missing; I've already purchased a new assembly, but now can't figure out how to replace without removing the whole front bumper....Haven't been able to find an answer anywhere online.......... :( ...... is there an easier way to do this?
  • I to am at the contemplation stage of trading in my Suburban. BUT. Mine is a 1995 model with only 95,000 miles. Excellent shape, kept in the garage and everything works. The answer why do I want another one is simple, I've got a bug for another Suburban! The only years I'm interested in are 07 and 08. I like the body styles better. Trade-in for mine is $3,000 max! and an 07 will easily cost 28,900 and an 08 I can work on for about 35k. But is it worth it? I do plan to keep it for 13 years, but will the new one last as long as the one I have? Dealers are not dealing like I wish they would on 07 and 08 models, they have the price up there and they aren't moving. So. Should I trade or stay with what I have?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I had similar situation over a year ago, went from a 97 to an 07.

    My observations: ride is substantially nicer, less interior space, many more creature comforts and technology improvements, smaller gas tank (loved the old 42 gallon drive a whole vacation day tank).

    I like you, will have (I need to tow or travel) a Suburban for years to come.

    Did I "need" to upgrade, no. Could I have gone another couple of years without it, probably (nothing major wrong). Do I feel like I made the right decision a year ago, yes.
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    Mine is a 1995 model with only 95,000 miles. Excellent shape, kept in the garage and everything works.
    Don't even think about trading for one of the later models. Keep driving your '95 until you use it up....then upgrade. You won't be sorry.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    If you want new, I'd get an 09 with the six-speed transmission. If you want used, wait another year or two and pick up a used 09. That's one significant upgrade that I think is worth either paying for or waiting for.
  • Mine looks the same (wife's fingernails!). You can get repalcement buttons from
  • developed a transfer case leak @ 120k due to oil pump flange induced design defect (like msg# 49/377). i have a gravel drive and didn't detect leakage until i heard gear noise (alas, too late!) and internal components were fried. looking for a way to avoid same at 240k. is it possible to beef up this area of case with a weld or other? also looking for source for reliable taillight bulb receptacles, as i've had lots of trouble here
  • murphy4murphy4 Posts: 92
    Has anyone leased a 2009 Suburban in the last few months? Are there any competaative lease rate in the market now?
  • kslrrkslrr Posts: 2
    Hello. New to the forum. I might have another reason for an indicated "sensor failure", especially if accompanied by noises from the front: Wheel bearing failure to point that the Center line of the wheel is no longer perpendicular to the Spindle, which would screw with the speed sensor gap. I will post what I find.

    Fortunately for me, the bearings started to make the awful noise only 10 miles from home (Perris, CA) this morning just as I started my 245 mile trip to Las Vegas, where I work.
  • kslrrkslrr Posts: 2
    Ok, I did find that the front bearings were failing. Especially the right which sounded like a coffee grinder and the play was at least 1/8 inch.
  • ozzman38ozzman38 Posts: 2
    thinking about buying a suburban 96 5.7 vortec, the owner said it over heated and they parked it and it been seating there for a year. some back yard mechanic told them the engine was froze the battery was dead the owner had a battery charger we charge it over night the next day the engine turn over so it not froze I pulled out the oil stick and it was rust covered is that from seating for so long or could it have a cracked block and coolant got in the oil??????
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Could be a blown head gasket caused problem.

    But if the oil stick is all rusty when you pull it out, you'll need a new engine. Sounds like the vehicle is a good candidate for the crusher.

    Run, don't walk.
  • ozzman38ozzman38 Posts: 2
    the body is in great shape if the only thing it needs is a rebiuld I can handle that why scrape it? A headgasket is nothing>
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    If the engine has been sitting with water in the oil so that when you pull the dipstick it's rusty, then you could have rust on the main crank bearings, cylinder walls, etc.

    R, DW
  • Have steering and brake issues recently put a steering pump and hydro boost bleed and troubleshooted everything flusterd need to pick someones brain that has some knowledge of this problem .it has abs thinking of doing the gear box next .I did the power steering pump a few weeks ago everything was fine 2 weeks later steering and brakes are out . let me know what u think thanks mike
  • I am putting a 1970s 454 into my burb. what is involved as far as brackets for pumps and alternator and stuff. has anyone done this. any pointers would be helpful.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I have a 2005 Yukon XL. 6-CD unit, no NAV. Every now and then, maybe every 5th engine start, the clock will reset to 12:00 and it will cycle through the CD's, as if the battery had been dead and it was jump started. It doesn't forget the radio presets though, which confuses me. And I may be imaging this, but it seems to hesitate on start up, very briefly.

    I'm thinking possibly bad battery connection? Do you suppose the NTB who sold me the battery just over a year ago would be able to check this (for free?)

    Other ideas? Just the head unit, maybe? Alternator? I'm no electrician. So far it never fails to start, but resetting the clock is getting annoying, and my wife is getting a little nervous. Thanks for any ideas.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Most autoparts stores will do a free battery and alternator check, and look for a loose battery connection. Since NTB put the battery in, that's where I'd recommend you start.
  • 94burban94burban Posts: 1
    Hey i have a 1994 suburban and it has alittle over 266,000 miles on it and is still running strong no major problems in the last 60k tranny replaced at around 200k never rebuilt oil changed every 3k the older suburbans are great runners and have alot of life in them i wouldnt buy a newer one
  • My 1996 Tahoe was having terrible problems starting and running correctly. The initial diagnosis was the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. After almost $2000 dollars of replacing the sensor, engine tune-up, fuel filter and fuel pump I was still having the same problems, but not all the time. I had a local mechanic due the work and he said take it to Chevy and have them diagnose the problem, which they determined was still the crankshaft position switch was malfunctioning. Since my mechanic had done the original work I took the Tahoe back to him with the Chevy diagnosis problem. He crawled under the truck with it running and saw the sensor moving around while it was running. He took the sensor out and discovered that one of the mounting bolts screws into a brass fitting inside the plastic timing chain cover. The brass fitting was loose and just needed a screw driver inserted into it to spread it to increase the tension on the plastic cover. My mechanic put it back together and it resolved all my problems, meaning most of the $2000 dollars I had spent trying to fix a problem that ended up being caused by maybe a 25 cent brass fitting in a plastic cover. Live and Learn. By the way my 1996 Tahoe has almost 154000 miles on it with the original engine and transmission.
  • guya60guya60 Posts: 1
    My 99 Gmc Suburban does exactly the same thing yours does. Have you been able to come up with a fix?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That post is from 2005
  • i have a 98 gmc suburban with a vortec 350 and i am haveing problems with it. when u start it up and go to drive away with it it gets to 3000 rpms and it just stumbble on it face. i had checked coil, put in a brand new distributor, had the ignition module checked at the part store and put new plugs and wires, and fuel injectorand it is still doing it
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    any error codes in the computer?

    check for leaking intake manifold
  • nope no lights and the intake manifold is not leaking i had had this truck for 3 years and i don't want toget ride of it u know what i need to check the fuel pressere
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I reread your problem symptom, and may have mis-interpreted what you were saying. Explain the 3K rpms statement. Are you saying that you are in park and starting it and rev it to 3K and it stumbles (no load condition).....or does it run okay at low rpm and low load?

    Or is the situation that you are really trying to accelerate fast (at say 30-40 mph and the car isn't able to accelerate (high load situation).

    If it is the later, you could have a bad fuel pump, very common.
  • just to let u know what was going on with my suburban it was the fuel pump
  • my mechanic has diagnosed my very-hard-to-start 1999 gmc suburban problem as bad fuel pressure regulator. He has quoted 7 hours and $1100 for the job (r&r upper intake, associated gaskets, nipples, oil change, etc). Labor rates can vary, but is the amount of hours about right? i've seen posts that this job should take much much less, but I think those engines have the FPR mounted outside the engine. Been doing business with these guys for 5+ years and never did me wrong, but appreciate your impressions on this.
  • 2002 Suburban Dome lights/ door lights not working. I have checked the fuse and replaced the headlight switch and the lights still do not work. I took one of the dome lights down and put 12 volts on it and all the lights worked. I suspect there is a bad relay somewhere but I can not find it. Thanks, Bob
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't have electrical schematics for your year.

    But interior lighting in later model Suburbans is controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module), which is basically a computer that manages when lights are turned on and off.....based upon input signals from light switches, timers, door opener, security system, open door switches, etc.

    Don't think there is anything else I can offer...
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