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Ford Mustang (2005 & newer) Problems and Solutions



  • I have a 2005 6cyl automatic, does anyone else have a problem when you take off from a dead stop of it just NOT going anywhere for several seconds THEN taking off like a skinned cat? :mad:
  • jimmee2jimmee2 Posts: 2
    I agree completely. I too, have an early 2006 GT convertible and the car is just fabulous. Its everything I expected in such a car. I put some stripes on the hood and trunk and the car looks great and runs even better, but those nose marks on the door windows just keep coming. :P
  • jimmee2jimmee2 Posts: 2
    If I were you, I would try a different dealership. As we all know, some of their "mechanics" are not quite up to standards.
  • zertndozertndo Posts: 1
    I am in the same boat as you. I have an '05 convertible and it is a dog. I punch it from a start and it seems to want to think about it. If I ease into acceleration and then punch it, it is better. Also, don't try to use passing gear in an emergency. I think it takes 5 minutes to go from 45 mph to 60mph just to pass. And do not even think about pulling out in front of anyone from a stop. I should have gotten the standard tranny, but my old knees won't take the clutching anymore. :sick: I am looking into the problem, but I am tired of hearing that this is the way electronics work. B.U.L.L.
  • trantitranti Posts: 51
    I had the problem in my V6 auto. I read in a mustang forum. It is called throttle lag. You can re calibrate the computer of your car as following. Turn on, but not start your car. Wait a minute for some lights go off. Press the gas pedal slowly until it hits the floor and then release it slowly. Turn off and then start your car. The problem will go away.
  • possum3possum3 Posts: 1
    I have an early 05 GT ragtop that ran problem free for 19,000 miles. Problems began with the failsafe mode on the message board. This will not leave an engine code and you must take it to your dealer with the message on the display. If you shut down the message disappears and the car runs fine again. The solution to this problem is a "throttle body sensor" which will usually require a replacement of the cast aluminum throttle body when servicing this problem. After this cure, I had an intermitant starting problem develop. Sometimes the car would start, sometimes not even after it was just shut down after a long trip. After two dealers looking at it, one out of town and my home dealer, the car checked out OK as did the battery. Brought it home and it failed to start after a 60 mile trip and sitting for 7 hours the next day. Jumped it and it ran fine. Failed to start the next morning and had it picked-up by flatbed and delivered to dealer service. Car started for the service tech. After a day of frustrating testing, the car finally showed a "low voltage" code and the battery was the cause. I believe that the Mustang GT's are not equipped with as high an amp battery as required for all the toys and they break down after some use. Keep after the service department to uncover the problem - let them keep the car and drive it. It will eventually do it for them.
  • Car is going back to the interior trim shop to repair the convertible top headliner. This is the fourth attempt at repairing the problem. Was told the car will be in the shop through the Labor day weekend. I tried to post pictures of the problem with no luck.
  • cpelusicpelusi Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 GT and I am experiencing the same problems. The car was at the dealer a week ago and they replaced the fuel pumps. Driving the car over the past week the same thing started happening again. When I am at a stop and try to accelerate the car hesitates for a few seconds then jumps hard into driving. Today sitting in traffic when I hit the gas nothing happened, I just sat there. The engine light came on yet again and I was stuck. I turned the car off and then on again and made it home. Going back to the dealer tomorrow. Any suggestions? :cry:
  • spcardspcard Posts: 5 it ten and still nothing. They told me the part is coming from a vedor back east somewhere. long does it take to get a part. I mean seriously, TEN DAYS !??!!!. IM beginning to think that maybe theres more wrong with my car that they aren't telling me. There has to be something i can do. can i even get a new car ? Im just really frustrated. what do i do ? :sick:
  • Same sort of things happening with my car. this car reached 900 miles and strange things begun from "Limp Home mode" in the dash where I could not get passed 20 MPH to dying in the middle of a turn in an intersection. They had mine three seperate times and then for for 1 week and finally replaced the MAS -Mass Air Flow Sensor. Their explanation was that all of the tests "pointed" in that direction. So far, so good. It's been 3 weeks.
  • lmmlmm Posts: 70
    This will work, but the problem will return. The computer has adaptive learning and will eventually relearn your driving technique.

    Find a knowledgeable tuner who can remove the throttle lag and at the same time get a Cold Air Intake and add 25hp to your pony.

    Ford purposely slowed the car down and there are a lot of hidden hp tricks. Read some differnt forums that are actually informative with technical assistance and information.
  • Look into the Lemon Law in your state. If you've owned the car less tha 12 months and have put less than 12,000 miles on the car you may have a case. Has the car been back 3 times for the same problem with no resolution? Has the car been out of service for 30 or more days?
    I submitted my Lemon Law paper work last week. Good luck!!! :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • You are right. But, CAI costs around $ 600 and may void warranty. That is why I have not bought CAI.
  • If you have a GT and this happens to you check to see that the traction control is turned on, check engine rpms's and white smoke from the rear view mirror, then let off gas and shift to next gear.
  • lmmlmm Posts: 70
    It wont void warranty. A warranty cannot be wholly voided by an aftermarket part. Only the parts affected can be voided.

    Funny how Ford now has their own CAI. Go ahead and do it. You can always spend 10 minutes reinstalling to stock if you need to take it to dealer with a problem.
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Well I certainly don't need more than 16" to 17" wheels on any car. I like the stripe look on a Stang and Cobra, and the hood scoops look fine to me. Are you perhaps assuming everyone wants, and needs a car to your liking? Interesting. Will have to check with you before purchasing any car to be sure it meets your criteria. :confuse:

    As for chrome wheels, I would not own any which were too heavy, as in unsprung weight not being a good thing, but if it matched the color of the car, and the look of the model of car, I could go chrome. Even if you think it is pimp.

    Have you ever seen the Liberace car at the Imperial Palace. Now that is ummm, well, let's say something else. Maybe it needed a hood scoop. :D
  • Different strokes. I just think 18" chrome wheels, a hood scoop, racing stripes, etc. overdress the car, are in poor taste (imagine a BMW, Mercedes, or Lexus with these accoutrements). :shades:
  • I was concidereing the scoop but now that I know they are fake and add no performance or engine cooling I will not be adding one. The only one that I say that was funtional had a intake tube routed under the hood to the cold air box. However unless it improved something its just air resitance and noise.
  • Thank you, Imm. Now I re-consider of buying CAI.
  • What are Clutch Packs and why are they being used in repairs of Mustangs?
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    White Mustang, with blue stripe has always been to American racing colors. They do race Mustangs. As for chrome wheels, they can look sharp on a black car, like a Mercedes, BMW or a Stang. Do you need 18" wheels -- I think not. Hood scoops can look good, or they can be a bit too large looking like on the WRX. Yeah, non-functional on the Stang, but it may not be an overdress. I personally dislike the spinner wheels, which aren't real.

    Don't care for the manual tranny on the Mustang, so would buy the automatic. It is one of those drive it, and if it feels right to ya, and you are thinking of buying a stick - go for it! In this case, I do not like the tranny.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    What don't you like about the manual tranny?
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Clutch seems too heavy. The point of catch seemed a bit hard to get use to, but I did not drive it too long - just short test drive. The stick is a bit notchy. Mostly it is the really stiff clutch. For driving on a track, or just a fun run, it may be OK. Would not want to live with it for daily travel around town or stop and go traffic anywhere.

    Best manual transmission I have found so far is on the Miata.

    On a Mustang, I think I would go with the automatic. Wonder if some sort of shiftronic - tiptronic or whatever so called tranny is in the cards for Mustangs? And the new 3.5 V6 is a go?
  • A heavy-duty trans, used also in Ford trucks, I believe, is needed to handle the high horsepower and torque. Has a short smooth throw, ultra quick shifts. I found it's much easier to use, actually quite easy, quite fast, if one moves the seat up a bit closer than one is used to.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    These transmission are over spec for the cars. The V6 uses the Tremec T5 which was previously on the Mustang GT.

    People report that the notch lessons with time.

    As for the clutch, most of the effort is probably a result of you stretching. I wish the car had either adjustable pedals or telescoping steering column.

  • I purchased a 2006 V6 with a stick and took delivery in December 2005. In the beginning I was disappointed in the shifting. It was rough and stiff and I had a lot of trouble getting into reverse. That's how I found this forum.

    I have been driving stick for more than 25 years and my daily driver is a '96 Celica which shifted smooth as silk from day one.

    Anyway, in April I spoke to the service manager and he was aware of this complaint and checked for TSBs. There weren't any. His technicians suggested that I need to drive the car more to break it in. They were right. The shifting has become easier. I have also found that if I don't put the clutch down to the floor I have trouble getting into gear. I am a short woman which means I have to keep the seat up close. I also find that depending on the shoes I wear my shifting changes. What I mean is if I wear a shoe with a thin sole it takes more effort to get the clutch pedal all the way down.

    I would still never buy a Mustang with an automatic. It's a sports car and has a "heavy" clutch. I also would not buy a car like this if I had a commute that required sitting in bumper to bumper traffic.
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Last time I had a car with the clutch not shifting until fully depressed, it was the master slave cylinder going out. It finally got to the point that even all the way in, it barely would allow a shift into a gear. I think it should be more like the last third out, or in when depressed in-which it engages or disengages. The GT I tested out seemed to grab around a the last third letting it engage. Check for fluid level.
  • sigt1sigt1 Posts: 66
    new mustang owners please consider a 3M clear bra. having the clear bra installed will save the paint on the car's front end from rocks that will cause the fragile water based paint to chip. i reccommend the extended kit with the door cups (will protect your door cups from scratches caused by nails or rings). probably one of the best initial mods, please consider.
  • m1miatam1miata Posts: 4,556
    Clear bra - interesting! Oh, on your car. Not too sure I'd go for that.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    But you'd go for a clear one of "the other kind?" :surprise: Oh my, m1miata, I wouldn't expect to hear that from a woman! :P

    Actually, the clear bra is a pretty good idea. The only thing that keeps me from getting one is that line that you'd see at the edges. It would drive me nuts.
This discussion has been closed.