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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • So, i found out that both front tie rods were warped, my rear brake pads are down to 4/32nd's (i think that's what he said), and both seals on my water pump were corroded, so it was leaking although I didn't see any evidence of that prior to bringing it in.

    Long story short, I had the tie rods replaced, alligned the front end, replaced the water pump and will wait on the brake pads. I lifted the truck when I got it back and rotated the tires just for sh*ts and giggles. The vibration is gone and it drives like it did when I picked it up in 03.

  • Afternoon guys-

    I take care of my truck (regular maint, oil changes, tires, etc) but its really getting up there in miles. I just flipped 140,000 miles the other day and was wondering if I should start being more proactive about maintaining it, with such high mileage.

    Any thoughts are appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yes that's not a bad idea. You might think about those expendable items you have not touched or examined in a long long time, such as:

    certain fluids that may need refreshing (brake, power steering, differential, coolant)
    age of your battery (if it's the original, it's getting tired)
    nut and bolt tightening of critical parts
    complete safety check
  • I have a 1994 fullsize blazer and i have a lot of front end chatter, like it sounds sloppy, i can usally fix it myself i just need a starting point. and it is a 2door 4x4.
    Thanks for any help you can give me.
    craig johnson
  • I have a 2003 Tahoe. The lighter and accessory outlets, both front and rear, stopped working. I use the outlet to recharge cell phone. I do not know which fuse to replace, the fuse panel does not show lighter. The panel is on the very left side odf driver's side. Does anyone know which fuse I should change?

  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Read the manual.

    It is stated there.

    There is another fuse box under hood on left side.

  • Arnie,

    Found it and replaced the fuse. Back to normal now.

    Thanks for the help.

  • I am looking to buy a 07 or 08 Tahoe and was wondering how many miles is too many for a used one? I don't want to have to replace hoses and do routine mait after a few thousands miles.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    A two or three year old truck s/b pretty safe unless it's had the wheels driven off it. Other than front pads, anything under 50K s/b OK. Now you w/ probably want to change all of the fluids just to be sure, especially if you're planning on keeping it for awhile.
  • Hello everyone!! I was on the way to work this afternoon in my 2005 chevy tahoe, 5.3L, when the check engine light came on. I had about a 30 minute ride to work, but when i arrived i went in work but shortly after had to run back out to the vehicle to get something when i smelled engine coolant and looked under the vehicle to notice a puddle. I popped the hood and there was no where to notice it leaking fromt that view but the overflow still has some in it, not full though. But from what i can tell it seems to have leaked from the center to front of the motor, but not close to the radiator. Any answers will greatly be appreciated. Thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like a waterpump.

    Make sure you fill your radiator before driving, you don't want to run your vehicle after/while loosing fluid, you could overheat and ruin your engine. You may have already done damage if you ran 30 minutes after the light came on.
  • HI, I have 04 Tahoe V-8 with 79,600 miles always has the oil changed very 3k. Not much more I could tell you. My husband is oversea's and I am having problems keeping antifreeze in the vehicle. I have been to the dealer twice and this week will be the third time. They have done the dye test and could not find any leaks. The service manager even took the vehicle home for the night and no leaks or problems with the vehicle. Could someone suggest what I should do or who is accountable for this problem. Has anyone looked in the so called "lemon law". I need this vehicle to transport my children around and need a dependable car, it is hard because of my husband being out of the country. If this sealant works, where would I find it and how do you use it. Appreciate all the feedback....
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Could be a hose bad, could be a water pump bad and leaking, could have a blown headgasket and the water is seeping into the cylinder and being blown out the exhaust (very bad situation), could be a interior passenger heater core leak (carpet wet on passenger side?), or could be a couple other situations. If the dye test isn't finding a leak, I fear the blown headgasket situation.

    No 'lemon law' applies, you have this vehicle well beyond the warranty period, this repair is on you.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did they check for evidence of coolant in the oil? Did they do a pressure test?
  • Well, the dye test was performed about 6 months ago and nothing was found. I have a feeling this is going to be a costly fix. I did take it to a different GM dealership (different from where we bought it) to see what they find. I do have some condensation coming from the exhaust, but nothing major. I hate this truck, if we wern't so up side down in it, I would get rid of it. Well I will keep everyone post, it is at the garage as we speak....
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Get a bottle of Bar's radiator leak fix from auto part store like AutoZone.

    I did for mine as I had the said coolant leak, which is quite well explained in this forum under coolant leak.

    It seems like there indeed is a major problem with engine heads with porosity leaks, which GM of course denies. After overheating my engine and pouring almost 2 gallons of antifreeze in it I found the coolant leak topic and there it was. I immediately got the Bar's leak fix and first it seemed to totally correct the issue. Later I learned that a leak still exists as I was still loosing coolant but very little compared to what happened first.

    Read under the correct topic, it is all there.

  • dkcreechdkcreech Posts: 4
    even tho my tahoe wasn't dropping fluids, the shop said it needed a new w/pump. with 83 k miles I relented cause I didnt want to break down somewhere that might reqjuire a tow. Was also told I needed some brake work. I expected to need new pads with 83 k miles. But do I need new rotors as well. How about just turning them? thnks/dc
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did you ask them what led them to decide the w/p was bad?

    Unless the rotors are warped, scored heavily, or below minimum thickness, they shouldn't require turning.
  • dkcreechdkcreech Posts: 4
    Thanks shark, they said there was some seepage around the w/p and the
    reservoir needed to be topped off. But frankly one could pour a couple inches into it everytime you lifted the hood. And no they didnt say the rotors were warped, or scored. Only that the rear pads were worned down. Im surprised that the front pads werent worn instead of the back ones. I think my shop might have stung me. Its to bad, I used to think they were good guys.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Typically the rear pads wear at about 2/3s the rate of the fronts. I'm guessing that they are probably the original pads.

    If you have to add two inches to the recovery tank often, then you are losing coolant someplace besides seepage at the w/p. Did they do a pressure test?
  • dkcreechdkcreech Posts: 4
    Yes, they say a pressure test was done. I cant argue with them.
    But my truck never got hot. Not even once,now I have a new
    w/p as well as new pads and new rotors on the rear. I've heard
    that if you get 83k miles out of your brakes, you should be
    happy but today a guy told me he didn't need them until he
    had 143k miles. I do a lot of city driving and I understand
    the demand that puts on a truck. My wallet is a lot lighter too!
    thanks for your advice Shark, I apprec it.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Did they say what was wrong w/ the rotors?
  • dkcreechdkcreech Posts: 4
    They said they were just worn down to the point that they couldn't be turned. I asked (based on my experience from the cars I had when I was a kid) then
    why didnt it shake & shimmy. Their response was because they were only
    worn down, not warped. This shop has a rep for being honest but several years
    ago they were bought by some larger company and maybe the "neighborhood
    shop" mentality is gone. BTW could the w/p seep fluid for a long time before
    finally failing or is it a sudden death event?
    thnks again./dc
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Not sure why they would need to be replaced if they weren't warped. I really doubt if they'd never been turned before that they'd be too thin to use. That really should have been the first pad replacement for the rears unless there was hardly any hwy miles.
    FYI: for future reference, the min. thickness is stamped in the rotor. But that's just so someone doesn't turn them below that and make them too thin.

    Usually seeping is a sign of impending failure in my experience. When the seal goes, then you lose coolant fast.
  • suzydallsuzydall Posts: 1
    Hi guys,
    I am a newbie and need all the help I can get. I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe LS with 143,000 miles on it. Yesterday morning when I got in it there was an awful ticking noise and it was running bad. The oil pressure is usually great, if anything it runs a little high. Yesterday, it was running around 30. I took it directly to my brother. The ticking sounded like it was coming from the valve cover on the drivers side. He pulled it off and it was thick with milky looking oil. We cleaned them up and replaced the gaskets. When I drove home last night the ticking was gone. I got up this morning the ticking is back the oil pressure is down again and now the low coolant light is on and the temperature is down slightly. Am I in real trouble here? What kind of problem am I looking at? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am not a big money girl and my car isn't throwing any codes. I don't want to keep driving and do any damage. :sick:

    Thanks in advance!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well the milky looking oil means the water from the radiator has gotten into your engine. That could be from a blown headgasket, or a worse internal engine problem. The head gasket is between the engine block and the heads (which have the valves that you undoubtedly saw when you took the valve covers off).

    Since your coolant light is also on, you have a definite problem. Do not drive it.
  • nkturnlnkturnl Posts: 2
    my tahoe stalls when im turning at a slow idle. thats the only time it does it. also my ac doesnt blow cold air in my middle or back seats. the front blows great. i just changed my brakes and my abs and break idiot lights came on. does anyone know why.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check to see that the wheel sensors were put back in place, or one may have been damaged. Check also to see that you have enough brake fluid in the master cylinder.

    Regarding your rear AC, is the symptom that the fan speed does not adjust and blow higher volumes of air? or is the symptom that the air flow is correct, but it's not cold enough?
  • nkturnlnkturnl Posts: 2
    thanks it was on for a few min. now i have driven it alot more it hasnt come on at all. fluid is fine and thr sensers looked ok. abiut the ac it blows fine in the back it just doesnt blow cold at all. the front is perfect. any idea why the tahoe is stalling when i take a turn at a very slow fires right back up when it stalls.and it does it at all diff levels of fuel. that has been bugging me for years.i took it into the dealership and they charged me 800 buck and didnt fix it.its really starting to worry me cuz my daughter is starting to drive now.
  • heldstabheldstab Posts: 1
    are aftermarket catalytic converters as good as factory converters for the 2002 tahoe
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