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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tahoess2004tahoess2004 Posts: 9
    08/30/2009
    The knocking noise that I experienced seemed to go away when I started using the A/C only. It occurred most often when the heater was running. I haven't got a complete diagnosis of the problem yet.
  • jcb4greenjcb4green Posts: 6
    Doc,
    Check the fuses in the fuse box under the hood on the right side and make sure they are still working. If you still need to pull the dash apart to replace the switch, it does pry loose relatively easy with a flat screw driver, just be careful. All the dash switches are in unplugable panels. Where does it come apart? Right around the front edge of the dash cover is a seam. Try you hands at first pulling on it and if it pops loose then you know you are on the right track. Just take your time and be careful. Make sure you can get the replacement switch first from an auto parts place. :(
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    If the fuse is blown would the fan blower work at all? I have some power to the switch because I have three of the six speeds. The top three fan speeds seem to work ok, just the three lower speeds are what is not working. Doc.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    As I said before you need to check the resistor bank (Blower Control Module) that is in the air plenum, at the output of the squirrel cage exhaust.

    The blower motor is a dc motor, and you adjust speed of a dc motor by putting a resistance in series with the motor to drop voltage. That gets hot when using, which is why it's put in the duct work to keep cooled.

    This is pretty common across most all vehicles, which have some sort of resistor bank or control module, This is what goes bad 99% of the time, not the switch.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    doc15,

    kiawah speaks facts. I personally had the same problem with a Pontiac Grand AM. I lost lowest 3 speeds.

    Resistors are mounted in the side of the duct work at the blower to cool them down and the resistors for the lowest fan speed always burn first as they get least amount cooling with lowest fan speeds, of course, and because the voltage drop, i.e. resistor heating is the biggest on them.

    Arrie
  • doc15doc15 Posts: 37
    Thanks for the info guys, I will be checking that out tomorrow.
  • dangerhoedangerhoe Posts: 2
    where is this sensor? My 1995 Tahoe recetly started running a bit rough when idling. It has about 190000 miles on all the original equipment and I dont feel like dumping a bunch of money into it.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Unless you do this on a regular basis, I would suggest running two bottles of Techron thru it.
  • smiley48smiley48 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2002 Tahoe and I don't think it's the fuel pump, could be electrical but don't know where. I have taken it to numerous places and paid countless dollars for them to not diagnose anything. It's frustrating no one can find my problem. Did you get anything figured out?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Smiley, you are replying to a post that is 3 years old.

    What kind of places have you been taking it to? You need to find a competent service dept.
  • dlaceydlacey Posts: 2
    This may sound like i'm being a funny, but you didn't say if you checked the belts. It sounds simple but it took me 15 minutes to figure my same problem out. A missing belt woiuld most certainly make it very difficult to steer.
  • tommyr43tommyr43 Posts: 2
    WHEN I FIRST START THE TRUCK AND DRIVE IT HAS NO PROBLEMS THEN WHEN I TURN THE ENGINE OFF THEN RETURN TO THE TRUCK AND GO AGAIN THE ENGINES SOUNDS LIKE IT IS MISSING AT TIMES AND IT DIES BUT RESTARTS AND SOMEITMES CLEARS UP AND RUNS FINE AND SOMETIMES IT JUST CONTINUES TO DIE. JUST RECENTLY WHEN IT DIED AND THE ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OVER IT JUST CLICKED. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS IT FINALLY TURNED OVER AND STARTED. A COMPUTER CKECK WAS DONE BEFORE IT STARTED ACTING LIKE THE STARTER WAS GOING OUT AND IT SHOWED THAT THE EGR VALVE WAS NOT RIGHT. I TOOK THE EGR VALVE OFF AND THERE WAS NOT ANY CARBON BUILD UP ON IT AND IT SEEMED TO BE WORKING OKAY AND NOT STICKING. I PUT A NEW GASKET ON AND IT STILL DOES THE SAME THING. TONIGHT I STARTED IT AND DROVE IT AND IT DID FINE. I WOULD KILL THE ENGINE AND IT WOULD RESTART FINE. I FINALLY JUST LEFT THE ENGINE RUNNING UNTIL THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING AT NORMAL TEMP FOR A WHILE AND THEN KILLED IT. WHEN I TRIED TO START IT IT JUST CLICKED. I DON'T KNOW VERY MUCH ABOUT DIESEL ENGINES EXCEPT EVERYTHING'S SO EXPENSIVE. IF YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS AS TO WHAT THE PROBLEM MAY BE PLEASE LET ME KNOW . . . THANKS!
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Will make it easier for someone to possibly help if you tell us the vehicle, model, year, engine, etc.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Plus, posts in ALL CAPS are hard to read so most people skip over those posts.
  • tommyr43tommyr43 Posts: 2
    It's a 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4WD with a 6.5 Turbo Diesel . . .
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like your starter could be bad. Works okay when it is cold, when it heats up it fails.

    This is assuming of course, that your battery connections are clean without any corrosion, as that adds resistance.
  • wh7952wh7952 Posts: 3
    Over the last month my 99 5.7 4WD Tahoe has been giving me problems accelerating when I give it a heavy foot. When I hit the gas down it loses acceleration almost like it's being starved of air or gas. When I hit the gas the engines just bogs down, begins to hesitate, and will not accelerate. kinda like when you have a dirty fuel filter
  • wh7952wh7952 Posts: 3
    I have already cleaned the mass air flow sensor, air temp sensor
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check your fuel pressure. Could be a failing fuel pump.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    or clogged fuel filter, from a bad load of gas
  • wh7952wh7952 Posts: 3
    I unplugged my mass air flow sensor and the truck was a new truck, ran scary fast and had so much power like it was a new truck. Is it safe to run the truck with the sensor unplugged untill i get a new one installed?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    I doubt it. It will set a DTC and probably go into a fixed fuel/air map that is rich to prevent engine damage. Probably why you're seeing/feeling increased power but have you checked mpg?
  • moverforsmoverfors Posts: 1
    I just noticed significant drips on the garage floor coming out of the front differential....couldn't pinpoint where. Am I in for a big bill? Should I go to a regular mechanic or a transmission place?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 63,466
    Depends. If the drip is in the front case (the side with the ten bolts) that's pretty simple. If the leak is on the driveshaft side (shaft from the transfer case) , that could require a bit more skill. That would be a pinion seal and it requires about 1.3 hours labor. If it's leaking from either left or right axle seals ( axles going to either front wheel), that's more complicated about 3 hours for one side and maybe 4 hours total for both sides. A good regular mechanic should be able to deal with these but if it were a pinion seal I might go to a transmission shop as it requires precise torqueing.

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  • dustie1dustie1 Posts: 17
    My left from wheel is making a sound like I have hug mudding tires on, my husband removed the left front tire in hopes to grease and pack the bering but discovered he couldn't get to them. If you know what type of berings these are please let use know do we need to replace the whole thing or is there a way to do it from home to save the money and not take to dealer. If you have done this job from home and can tell us how please let me know. Thank you and happy holidays.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 63,466
    if the bearing noise is that loud I'm afraid it's beyond the point of packing with grease. I mean, that might get you by for a little bit but the damage is done. Bad bearings can, in extreme cases, cause a lot of other problems as well.

    Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement

    Removal Procedure

    Notice: Never place vehicle on the ground with the halfshaft removed or the halfshaft nut torqued improperly. Otherwise, bearing seals may become dislodged causing premature wear and/or damage to the hub and bearing assembly.

    1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
    2. Remove the tire and wheel.
    3. Remove the rotor.
    4. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
    5. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts. (15 series)
    6. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts , the 25/35 series.
    7. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
    8. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
    9. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
    10. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
    11. Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:

    o Nicks
    o Cuts
    o Dry or brittle
    o Compression set

    Installation Procedure

    1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
    2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
    3. Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
    4. Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
    5. Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
    6. Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
    7. Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts. Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series. Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
    8. Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolt to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
    9. Install the rotor.
    10. Install the tire and wheel.
    11. Lower the vehicle.

    If you need diagrams, check w/ your local public library or get a workshop manual at Autozone or Kragen.

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  • roadworkroadwork Posts: 1
    my 2002 runs rough, it bucks and wants to stall. The voltage gage bounce all over. check engin light say lean left bank lean right bank. it is almost lie it has a vacume leak. do you think it could be intake manifold?

    roadwork
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check fuel pressure. Could be a fuel pump going Tango Uniform.
  • d1extreemd1extreem Posts: 9
    I just spent about 4 hours reading all of the posts... this is a GREAT place to be!
    Ok, bought my '96 Tahoe LT in April, with 150K miles on it, of which 10K are mine. It has a full tow package on it and I first made use of it with a 5x8 U-Haul trailer this past weekend. About half way into the 700 mile trip, I was entering the Trans-Canada from a ramp and, while accelerating, at about 45-50mph, there was a "zzzzzz" sound, kinda like a power steering pump, but from the tranny area. I was in OD, shifted to D, same noise with power on, it stopped when I released the gas, but no noise at all in 3rd. Everything still worked fine, passing gear, etc., no sign of slipping and the noise quit at hwy speeds.
    When I stopped an hour later, for fuel, checked the oil levels, all ok, then put it through the gears. Noise in forward & reverse, with brakes on and slight gas pedal, but it did not last. I finished the trip with no further noise, and no drop in performance and no obvious slippage.
    Without the trailer, and in our new snow, I've been putting it through the gears a little more aggressive, but everything seems ok.
    I'm doing another 300 mile trip with aging Mom & Dad at Christmas and don't want any problems... any ideas?? :confuse:
    Tranny oil is ok and, red, not burnt. Thanks
    Don
  • d1extreemd1extreem Posts: 9
    Get under the hood and pull apart, clean and "white-grease" all the electrical plugs and connections you can find... could be some wires giving mixed, (corroded, loose) signals.
    A smoke-test, for the vacuum will show all leaks, 20$-40$, but worth the bother, even if that's not the "real" problem... could be a combination of things, vacuum is a good thing to have!
    Fuel too,
    Might be a bad plug, injector, wire... battery connection= low, irregular voltage leading to computer confusion.
    But the smoke test will tell a lot, and eliminate that question! :)
    What conditions are you driving in?
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