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The knocking noise that I experienced seemed to go away when I started using the A/C only. It occurred most often when the heater was running. I haven't got a complete diagnosis of the problem yet.
Check the fuses in the fuse box under the hood on the right side and make sure they are still working. If you still need to pull the dash apart to replace the switch, it does pry loose relatively easy with a flat screw driver, just be careful. All the dash switches are in unplugable panels. Where does it come apart? Right around the front edge of the dash cover is a seam. Try you hands at first pulling on it and if it pops loose then you know you are on the right track. Just take your time and be careful. Make sure you can get the replacement switch first from an auto parts place.
The blower motor is a dc motor, and you adjust speed of a dc motor by putting a resistance in series with the motor to drop voltage. That gets hot when using, which is why it's put in the duct work to keep cooled.
This is pretty common across most all vehicles, which have some sort of resistor bank or control module, This is what goes bad 99% of the time, not the switch.
kiawah speaks facts. I personally had the same problem with a Pontiac Grand AM. I lost lowest 3 speeds.
Resistors are mounted in the side of the duct work at the blower to cool them down and the resistors for the lowest fan speed always burn first as they get least amount cooling with lowest fan speeds, of course, and because the voltage drop, i.e. resistor heating is the biggest on them.
Arrie
What kind of places have you been taking it to? You need to find a competent service dept.
This is assuming of course, that your battery connections are clean without any corrosion, as that adds resistance.
Front Wheel Hub, Bearing, and Seal Replacement
Removal Procedure
Notice: Never place vehicle on the ground with the halfshaft removed or the halfshaft nut torqued improperly. Otherwise, bearing seals may become dislodged causing premature wear and/or damage to the hub and bearing assembly.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel.
3. Remove the rotor.
4. Remove the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle.
5. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts. (15 series)
6. Remove the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts , the 25/35 series.
7. Remove the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield from the vehicle.
8. Remove the O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore, the 25/35 series.
9. Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt.
10. Clean and inspect the O-ring seal, the 25/35 series.
11. Replace the seal if the following conditions exist:
o Nicks
o Cuts
o Dry or brittle
o Compression set
Installation Procedure
1. Clean all corrosion or contaminates from the steering knuckle bore and the hub and bearing.
2. Lubricate the steering knuckle bore with wheel bearing grease or the equivalent.
3. Install the O-ring to the steering knuckle, 25/35 series. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt to 18 Nm (13 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the wheel hub and bearing and splash shield to the vehicle, 25/35 series.
6. Install the wheel hub and bearing (4) and splash shield to the 15-series steering knuckle.
7. Install the wheel hub and the 15-series bearing mounting bolts. Install the wheel hub and bearing mounting bolts, the 25/35 series. Tighten the bolts to 180 Nm (133 ft. lbs.).
8. Install the wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten the bolt to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
9. Install the rotor.
10. Install the tire and wheel.
11. Lower the vehicle.
If you need diagrams, check w/ your local public library or get a workshop manual at Autozone or Kragen.
roadwork
Ok, bought my '96 Tahoe LT in April, with 150K miles on it, of which 10K are mine. It has a full tow package on it and I first made use of it with a 5x8 U-Haul trailer this past weekend. About half way into the 700 mile trip, I was entering the Trans-Canada from a ramp and, while accelerating, at about 45-50mph, there was a "zzzzzz" sound, kinda like a power steering pump, but from the tranny area. I was in OD, shifted to D, same noise with power on, it stopped when I released the gas, but no noise at all in 3rd. Everything still worked fine, passing gear, etc., no sign of slipping and the noise quit at hwy speeds.
When I stopped an hour later, for fuel, checked the oil levels, all ok, then put it through the gears. Noise in forward & reverse, with brakes on and slight gas pedal, but it did not last. I finished the trip with no further noise, and no drop in performance and no obvious slippage.
Without the trailer, and in our new snow, I've been putting it through the gears a little more aggressive, but everything seems ok.
I'm doing another 300 mile trip with aging Mom & Dad at Christmas and don't want any problems... any ideas?? :confuse:
Tranny oil is ok and, red, not burnt. Thanks
Don
A smoke-test, for the vacuum will show all leaks, 20$-40$, but worth the bother, even if that's not the "real" problem... could be a combination of things, vacuum is a good thing to have!
Fuel too,
Might be a bad plug, injector, wire... battery connection= low, irregular voltage leading to computer confusion.
But the smoke test will tell a lot, and eliminate that question!
What conditions are you driving in?