Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Bad bearing and seal.
  • Did you ever find a solution to your problem? I have the same exact issue. I have a new exhaust (cat and muff), filters, fuel regulator and filter (pressure is good), plugs, wires, cap and rotor. On high rev engine gets rough and if I stay on it it trips the service light with P0300. I saw that someone sent you an email suggesting bad coil/ignition module,or bad pcm. Did this fix your problem? I have complete lost my patience with this!!!...thanks
  • Just replaced my transmission, so I haven't been able to worry with anything else. Had it at the dealer's for the repair and they could never trace down the noise, so I have just learned to live with it. Thanks for asking.
  • 1999 Tahoe...I have a new exhaust (cat and muff), Mass Aire Flow Sensor, filters, fuel regulator and filter (pressure is good), plugs, wires, cap and rotor. On high rev engine gets rough and if I stay on it it trips the service light with P0300. If it starts to misfire and I let off , bringing down the RPM, it goes back to normal. Private mechanics, dealers have no answers. I joined this forum because quite honestly I am out of options....HELP!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited September 2010
    Possibly intake manifold leaking ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited September 2010
    In addition to kiawah's good suggestion------Here's what GM says:

    If the published misfire diagnostic does not isolate the cause, perform the following suggestions as necessary:
    Perform a fuel injector balance test for all 8 cylinders. If a fuel injector concern exists, it is possible to misfuel an entire bank of the engine, causing multiple cylinders on the same bank to misfire even though the root cause is a single fuel injector.
    Inspect O2 sensor connections on the misfiring bank for corrosion or water intrusion. If water intrusion is found on the right bank, it may be due to the AC Evaporator Condensation dripping onto the O2 sensor harness. If this condition is found, reposition and shield the harness to prevent a repeat concern and repair the connections.
    Check for excessive exhaust backpressure using the restricted exhaust diagnosis.
    Swap the Position 1 O2 sensors side to side to see if the misfires move to the other bank of the engine. If so, replace the O2 sensor.

    Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed."
  • Intake was leaking a year ago and that issue was corrected.
  • O2 sensors were checked, one replaced. Fuel injectores were already checked and one other fuel concerns at this point
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think switching the 02 sensor side to side is a clever diagnostic that GM suggests.

    Just because something was replaced doesn't mean it's any good---this assumption has tripped me up before. I don't even presume something new out of the box is automatically "good" and can be discounted.

    Hard problems need a strict attitude I think--that is, very methodical, even tedious, if you will.
  • chek2chek2 Posts: 3
    I have a 03 Suburban and I recently began hearing a flutter like sound when I accelerate. It is similiar to the sound you would hear if you put a index card in a oscillating fan. It's not a very prominent sound when I'm driving in traffic, but when it's quiet or if I'm driving along the side of a building or in between buildings, it's a lot more noticeable. I have taken it to the repair shop, but it was noisy and hard to hear....and trying to describe it is difficult so they haven't been able to help me. I thought it might be a fuel injector or fuel system problem so I added some fuel injector cleaner, but no change. Any ideas on what could be the problem? My big girl has been good to me and I want to be good to her, and keep her running. :shades: I just need to know what to fix. :confuse: Help!
  • This sounds familiar. I had a similiar sound in my 03 Tahoe. After many troubleshoots at the dealer it came down to a fan clutch. Have the dealer check you AC system to include the compressor and compressor bearings and fan clutch.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sounds also like an exhaust leak.
  • chek2chek2 Posts: 3
    @dantheman3...thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to ask the service tech to check those things for me.
  • chek2chek2 Posts: 3
    @Mr_Shiftright....exhaust leak? that sounds like trouble.... :surprise:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    maybe not so bad...could be just a loose bolt or clamp.
  • I have had cabin leaks every winter since buying my Tahoe new in '05. Sometimes I notice it around the vents in the rear headliner. Sometimes it seems to be running down the walls in the cargo area and soaks the carpet. On first trip to dealer, they said it was a drain that got clogged. Next few trips, they can't get it to leak, so can't find the problem. Any thoughts on what else might be causing this? If it is a clogged drain, anything I can do to stop it from happening, or fix it myself?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Assume you have a moon roof?

    Is this a factory install, or aftermarket?

    And/or....was anyone messing with the roof rack?
  • I have a 2005 LT. The climate controls blow very warm air when the system is supposed to be turned off. If the temperature outside is anything warmer than about 50 degrees, I have to either turn the a/c on, or roll down windows to stay comfortable. I have never had a car run this warm. Dealer says it is normal and there is nothing to do to change it. Anyone else have the same experience? Was there anything you could do to fix it?
  • Yes, factory moonroof. Rarely opened.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    sure sounds like a clogged sunroof drain, or in the worst case scenario, the rubber tube inside the headliner or roof trim has dislodged. It's always good to clear the sunroof drains with modestly applied compressed air, NOT a stiff wire.

    Also, if there is a roof rack, you want to suspect leaking at the mounting anchors.
  • thanks. I'll give those a try and let you know if that solves it.
  • I have a 2006 Tahoe and have been having a ticking noise in the motor for a little over a month. I finally got enough money to take it to a mechanic and he took the engine cover off and found that the lifters were eating at the cam or the cam is going bad. I have 85,000 miles on this truck. I am wondering if anybody else has had this problem? I called the chevy customer service and the lady was very nice and explained to me that if a chevy dealership stated that the part was defective then Chevy will pay for it to be fixed. I did not get the extended warranty when I purchased the tahoe so I am stuck with paying for it. It turns out that it will cost a pretty pennie for us to fix so we are hoping the mechanic rules it a defective part. (fingers crossed) Why is something like this happening to this truck with not very high miles? Is it something that normally breaks? Could this be my error? Could I have avoided this? If so How? I have changed the oil everytime the truck has told me too. Any info would help!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Lack of oil, wrong weight oil, inferior oil, dirty oil, is what most normally first think of.
  • Hum so something Pertaining to the oil has caused this. Which, to me that would mean that it is highly possible the mechanic would rule that it was owner error instead of product defect. I wonder how if you have changed the oil, and used the same/correct oil in the vehicle since you purchased it, what would cause the lifters to eat away at the cam, or for the cam to go bad?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    Well hate to date myself here, but 30 years ago I had bought a 80 GMC PU, 3/4 ton, 350 engine. It was a great vehicle. Some number of years later during a very hectic period of my life, actually right around 75K miles if I remember, I was doing some very heavy hauling for my FIL at highway speeds for a couple hours on end. I had neglected to check the oil, and started to have a tapping like yours. When I checked the oil, it was both very low and I realized I had missed an oil change.

    Ended up with new cam and a couple lifters. I now religiously check oil levels on all my vehicles on a regular basis, use Mobil1 synthetic, and never stretch oil/filter changes....always change way before their 'maximum' mileage ratings. Oil and filters are cheap insurance.
  • I know it's hard to believe someone when they say they change oil as suggested by the owners manuel, but I have. My Tahoe tells me when it is time to change the oil and I have done exactly that. With that said is there anything else that could cause this?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited October 2010
    You've got metal parts, rubbing against each other, at high temperatures.

    Who knows what else could cause it:
    - Blocked/clogged oil passage (like plaque in your artery)
    - The neighborhood kid, put a handful of sand into your oil filler tube
    - A mislabeled case of oil, 2 oil changes ago, where you put in 0w10 unknowningly
    - A clogged oil filter, three oil changes ago
    - A metallurgic defect in the lifter, that somehow worked fine for 80K miles then showed up
    - You driving at a 70degree incline going up the side of a mountain, causing oil starvation
    - who knows, could be a bunch of things, and hard to 'prove' anything.

    If the dealership is willing to pick up any of the cost (because you are perhaps a repeat customer, and they have performed all of the maintenance and have record of it), perhaps you buy the parts and they do the labor, consider it a gift, take it and run.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    When I pulled the small block in my '73 Corvette (bought new) @ 72K mi, I found that the rear cam lobes were wearing down. When I checked around, several mechanics said that SBCs were notorious for "soft" cams. In other words, they didn't case harden the lobes deep enuf.

    Curious to know if yours has roller lifters?
  • when my truck sets backed into driveway overnight with approx 1/4 tank or less it will not start untill I add fuel approx 3 gal?
  • sasz71sasz71 Posts: 14
    If your drive way is not level, it is probably the fuel pump. I replaced my fuel pump with AC Delco brand and now no problems.
Sign In or Register to comment.