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Chevy Tahoe Maintenance and Repair



  • mom2znamom2zna Posts: 1
    So I bought this 2009 Tahoe brand new, after having leased two new suburbans previously. I figured I was ready to settle down with this size and had loved my two Suburbans, no problems at all.

    My mileage is about 50K now and in the last six months my engine light came on requiring a $600 fix at the dealership because without it, my power start wouldn't work. When i brought it in, I also advised them that my Onstar wasn't working. No blue light. I was told they could replace the unit for another $500. I can't afford that. My driver's side automatic mirror won't tilt up and down. That will cost me $400 and I can't afford that either. Finally, sometimes when I start my truck, the blinkers don't make blinking sounds and at the same time, my stereo system won't play in stereo. Turning the truck off and waiting about 15 minutes will reset that but it is a pain. They won't even give me a quote on fixing that, except that they will replace the speakers and check the connections, but don't know if that will fix it. Tonight, the rear hatch stopped opening with remote, or handle power button. Was I stupid to buy a Tahoe rather than leasing another one? Are they no longer built to last? This is a 4-year old, garaged, back and forth to work 25 miles round trip truck. We take it on family trips because it's bigger than my husband's Hyundai (a 2003 with no problems, ever ever). The warranty is up so everything starts going? I am still paying for this truck and though for sure I would be able to count on the systems to run at least through my final car payment. Is there anything that would cause all these things to just "go" in six months? I'm afraid to take it back into my dealer, I just can't afford all these repairs.
  • My 2004 Tahoe LT has a dual zone aircon system. The passenger side air is always warmer than the driver side regardless of the temperature you select. The dealer says that all you have to do is turn off the engine for awhile and this will reset this condition. Once while driving on the interstate hot air started to blow out of both driver and passenger side. I got off the interstate and turned off the motor for 1/2 hr. and then started the and all was well again. Can anyone tell me what the actual problem is?
  • Is your vehicle the 4.8 or 5.3 liter model? And is it flexfuel? It probably doesn't matter but it helps when trying to look up specifics for your vehicle.

    It sounds like you either have a blend door actuator failure or an iced up evaporator core causing the a/c blower to not blow into the cabin well enough.

    There are blend doors for both the driver and passenger side of the vehicle - they open and close based on temperature input from the a/c controller - which blends the cold air coming from the evaporator box with outside/ambient cabin air to make the air temp you've commanded on the climate control panel.

    If say the passenger side fails - whatever position it was in when it failed it will stay that way. If it was more to the outside air position then the passenger will feel mostly warm outside air in the summer. Of course in the winter the air coming from that side would be cold because the outside air is cold and the door isn't allowing any heater air to come to that side of the vehicle.

    I'm having trouble finding exactly how many and where the actuators but I did a quick search on google for tahoe blend door actuator and found quite a bit of good info in the form of text, images, and video.

    The other possibility might be that your evaporator drain is clogged which causes the a/c evap box to collect water in the bottom which then causes the evap core to freeze blocking any cold air from coming into the cabin. If you continue to feel cold air blowing out on the driver side when the passenger sides stops blowing cold air this is probably not your problem.

    The actuators are cheaply made and fail all the time in many GM vehicles - in my 98 Buick park avenue there are 5 of them and only one is still working. Luckily for me the doors failed when they were in a good position to cool.

  • Thanks for the info. It seems that the dealer will be the way to go. I spoke to a different dealer about this problem and they basically described the same possible failures as you did. My Tahoe just turned 90,000 miles and aside from this actuator failure, everything works just fine.

    Thanks for the info.
  • I have a 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe that I have owned since new. Recently it was taken to a detail shop and on bringing it home the driver side window rolled down by itself and wouldn't go back up. We took it back and they replaced the switch on the rear door. It seems to have the same problem again. It will go down by itself occasionally and can only be raised from the rear door switch, but not all of the time. Sometimes it won't roll up, but then later it will. The switch on the front door seems to be able to lower it, but not raise it. Thank you in advance for any suggestions or help that you can provide.
  • mzc2mzc2 Posts: 2
    2004 Tahoe 160,000 miles, well maintained. Started hesitating as if not getting enough fuel while traveling across country. Stopped at autozone, no codes found. Gas treatment and changed fuel pump relay (looked burnt). Continued without a problem for 600 miles. Finally stalled, went completely dead. Towed to 1st dealer who charged us 1100$ for new fuel pump. Stalled in parking lot. Techs ran all the checks, test drove. Stated it was computer recharging. Believed them and left. Went 107 miles, stalled again, same problem. Dealer #2 says air flow sensor $550. NOPE. Stalled on test drive. NOW ECM need replacing. Just picked up. Another $1100. Made it 70 miles before stalling again. Now stranded on side of road.

    I've always always had Chevys. But I am convinced they don't know their product. If the computer can't tell them what's wrong, they can't figure it out and just start replacing things while I hemorrhage cash.

  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Can you hear the fuel pump run up when you turn the key to the "Run" position w/o starting? If so, then you need to get a fuel pressure gauge and check the next time it stalls. Harbor Freight carries them. Also check the fuel pump relay.
  • mzc2mzc2 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. Yes. Can hear fuel pump priming. Service tech at 1st dealer said pressures were ok--after replacing pump. Car wont start now. Need to get trailer to drag home. Already replaced relay
  • So disgusted with my new Tahoe. I do not have 8,000 miles on it and it will drive OK for 5 mins then will not accelerate, sputters when I hit the gas. It feels like it will just stop. I barely got it home. What in the world would cause this? I have the 5.3 engine. I am afraid it will not make it to the dealer without stopping and leaving me on the side of the road. It is under warranty for sure, but I hate to see it start staying at the dealer and not in my driveway.
  • Forgot to add I already checked the gas cap, etc. It just stutters when I hit the gas going up a hill, etc. Feels like it will stall out. Slows down, makes a loud noise from underneath when this happens, but nothing is falling out.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Could be the fuel pump going Tango Uniform. But it could be a myriad of other things. I'd get it to the dealer soon.
  • The Tahoe left me stranded. Fuel pump failed. Can't believe I had less than 8000 miles and fuel pump failed. The dealer it was towed too was so rude. Really need to watch the fuel pumps in these vehicles.
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Try not to run the tank below 1/4 as the fuel keeps the pump motor cool.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Have to wonder if something else is going on. It's hard to "fill-up" a gas tank (mine's a 20 gallon tank and it's rare that I can get 18 gallons in, even after the low fuel light has been on a while).
  • o2 sensor was our problem.. dealership even replaced transmission thinking that was the problem.. new fuel pump etc.. Once we replaced the o2 sensor never had a problem.
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