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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues



  • I was given a 85 xcab 4x4 with 119,000 9 years ago. Box was rusted. Since than
    I completely rebuilt the 22R FI engine. Has 2000 miles on rebuilt. All axles and
    Auto trans have amsoil fluid and are perfect. Locking hubs. Cab body in good shape
    with new front fenders. Have snow plowed my driveway for the last 6 years with
    a 6' alumium blade with a western plow frame and controls. Best traction truck
    I have ever seen, but the frame is going fast from rust. Will a newer toyota pickup
    accept the front axle and springs with using my old steering box and steering
    column. Perhaps a 94. Have too much invested in engine and body too junk.
    Truck now has 145,000 on it. Need Advise. Bob
  • zaggizaggi Posts: 2
    I'm looking into buying a friends 89 Toyota pickup for $800, the body is in great shape and the tires are all good. The engine runs pretty well to me, it's a 5 speed tranny and isn't lacking any power it seems. There were a few things I noticed though, in higher rpms there's a quite loud squeal, I'm told it's the fan belt and should be replaced or tightened, sounded true enough to me. Is that something I can easily do myself? Also, if going uphill or even a gentle hill it will pop out of 5th gear, I've heard that a bushing can fix that, though I guess if you're going uphill you don't need to be in 5th gear anyway. I looked over the engine and everything looked okay, I'm not much of a mechanice though. The drivers side blinker is missing, and the bumper is an aftermarket one and is mounted crooked. The grill has a bit damage as if someone hit it with a bat. Just wondering if everyone thought this would be a good purchase. Thanks.
  • Sounds good to me. Belts are cheap enough to replace. $10 each, give or take. The shifter bushings are the likely culprit for the transmission popping out of gear. They shouldn't cost more than $150 at your local mechanic. A turn signal lens/bulb is easy to replace, just a few screws, and the light is most likely available at your local junk yard.
  • zaggizaggi Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I just noticed an error I made in my post, the truck IS an 86, not an 89. But I'm pretty much set on buying it. For $800 I guess I can't go wrong, I know of alot of people who pay $500-$800 on a vehicle that doesn't even run, so I think I'm getting a decent deal here. I'll definitely take a drive down to the local Pick-A-Part junkyard and see if I can't find some stuff to make her look a bit better. :D Anyway, thanks again. Any other advice or tips would be awesome too.
  • For some time now, my 93 pickup with the 3.0 VZE has been sounding like it spark knocks when traveling at speeds above 55mph. It really seems to get bad when the cruise is set at about 65 while traveling on the interstate. When it does this, I let off and then speed back up. This seems to help for a short time until it starts again. I am worried that it is the beginning of big problems, considering it has 168K miles. Does this sound like it is the main bearing or something like lifters ticking? I had one mechanic look at it and he said that it was just old, and things like this are normal. Personally I am afraid to drive it long distances anymore, so I use it as an around town truck. Has anyone experienced the same thing or does anyone know if I just need to have the engine overhauled?
  • esb43505esb43505 Posts: 1
    I'm currently having the same problem, kind of intermittent. '94 4-cylinder. when it's acting up it idles ~ 500 rpm, sounds rough and about to stall out. when driving, I can also floor the pedal and just about no response, then around 3000 rpm there's a surge and the engine starts to pull. I've also replaced the plugs/cap/rotor. some days the truck is just fine. sometimes seems to be associated with damp weather, but not always.
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    I was having a similar problem on my '95 4 cyl. It was more intermittent, though. It would run just fine when first starting it up. After driving around for a little while and getting the engine up to, or close to, operating temperature, park it for a few minutes to cool off. After restarting, then it would have horrible power in the low end, but it only lasted for a little while until the engine was hot again. It also gave a rich burning smell from the exhaust. I figured out that it might be the O2 sensor, since I recently replaced it, and took it back to the parts store on warranty. Since I've replaced it with the new one, the truck runs just fine. I'm waiting to see if the problem comes back, since this is the first time I've replaced the O2 sensor with an after market one. If this one fails, I guess I'll have to do my best to get my money back and get a Toyota one from the dealer. I guess you should check your O2 sensor and see if the heater element is burned up, or maybe if it's all together bad.
  • jettafacejettaface Posts: 15
    Had this under Tacoma until I saw this site. Adding here.
    Hi, I have a 1989 Toyota SR5 4x4 4 cyc pickup with 66,000 miles on it. I just luv this toy. Friend gave me 2 new exhaust mufflers. Can't find a name on them but they are cyclinder in shape, about 2 feet long and red....I know..nice info. But I was thinking of putting both of these on and now am wondering if I could screw up back pressure, etc.? Maybe I should just leave well enough alone, but I sure would like to hear a little growl when I take off. Second childhood I guess. Any suggestions? Thanks much.
  • ibartrumibartrum Posts: 1
    I have a 94 P/U (V6) that has trouble starting after its been driven more than 20 minutes. It turns over, but then acts like the fuel supply runs out and stalls. If I wait about 15 minutes I can get it to start. Mechanics are mystified...has anyone had this problem? Thanks...
  • toyota18toyota18 Posts: 1
    Hey Shubros or jbryan ,did u find ur problem cause i have the same prob right now and i didnt the trouble yet ! again 91 Toyota starts but wont run more than 2 sec
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    A friend of mine recently had a similar problem on his Honda. It would start up, but die off after just a second or so, especially on cold days. The tech at the dealership even noted that they could only recreate the problem on cold mornings. It turned out to be the ignition coil in tandem with a corroded wire. The wire was some kind of power supply wire to the ignition coil/igniter. I suggest you check your coil with a ohm meter. The primary resistance (between the two holes where the connector plugs in) should be .36 to .55 ohms. The secondary resistance: put one probe to the positive terminal where the connector plugs into the coil, and the other probe should go to the high tension terminal, AKA the port where the distributor wire plugs in. It should read 9.0 to 15.4 K ohms. If all that is normal, then you'll have to find some more statistics online to know what ohms should read on the wires supplying power to the coil and igniter.
  • Try change the filter that might do the trick.
  • The temp gage. It reads very low heat even after wormed up. I changed out the heat sensor and still is the same. Checked the gage with a short and works like a champ and goes all the way to hot. What else could be wrong?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Does it seem like there's no heat in the engine? After driving it for a few minutes are you actually able to touch the valve cover(s) and feel very little heat? If it seems that the engine is actually not heating up, you should probably check you thermostat. It doesn't happen very often, but they can become stuck open sometimes, and it won't allow your engine to achieve full operating temperature. Also, listen to see if you hear the "whirring" of the fan while you drive, especially if you've been on the freeway, and then back to a stop. If it seems that the fan is continuously pulling air, your fan clutch may have locked up, and that could be keeping the temperature down.
  • The temp of the engine seems hot but wont register on gage.Just a little bit like it is running cold.
  • My 95 toyota pickup 5sp manual 160K miles won't start. Cleaned battery terminals, not the starter. No click when you turn key. Checked Neutral switch from clutch pedal, is good. Please help!
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Did you check your fuses? Also could be the starter solenoid.
  • tony1177tony1177 Posts: 4
    ok in short. My engine has 90,000 on it new head gasket, egr valve, fuel filter, i put a crawler cam in it, and so on. It runs rough and was told it isnt the cam. At idle its alittle rough. I also noticed that after a half tank of gas once on highway if im just kinda idling along i get a check engine light with 72 code. Only after half tank. The code is multiple items. The only thing i can think of is vaccum hoses off. maybe. anything ill help
  • yes checked the fuses, but does anyone know how to check the relay
  • I have a 1994 Toyota Pick up. 4 wd, 5 speed. We have a replacement gas tank but no sending unit. We can't seem to locate one. Does anyone know if a 4 Runner part might work? Any suggestions? :sick:
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Toyota Pick up 4x4 4cyl, The vehicle keeps giving me a trouble code # 71 I have replaced and cleaned everything thing listed in the manual, and i am still receiving the code, what else could be the problem?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Just makin' sure...

    Did you test the EGR temp. sensor? Make sure to plug it back in securely?

    Did you vacuum/electric test the VSV? Test the VSV for ground to itself?

    Test for any vacuum leaks? Test the EGR itself to make sure the vacuum can open it?

    Did you look inside the passageway inside the head to make sure it's not clogged?

    Lastly... Did you make sure to reset the computer, pull the EFI fuse?

    Just want to rule out the easily overlooked...
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Posts: 3
    I have done everthing listed except for checking for vacuum leaks, and testing the VSV.

    What is the VSV, and how exactly do i test it?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    OK, that's gonna take some research on my part to make sure I tell you everything correctly. I'll have to get back to you on all the info.

    I'm assuming since you have a code 71 that you have a California emission truck, right?

    In the mean time, do a Google search for 1993 toyota pickup factory service manual. Follow the links and you should find one online that you can use for free.

    You're also probably going to need to test the EGR vacuum modulator, which is the saucer shaped thing next to the EGR.

    The VSV's are the small block shaped things on top of the valve cover that have vacuum lines and wire harness plugs running to them. The allow the computer to manipulate the engine by opening/closing vacuum valves to control different things. On a CA truck, this includes the EGR. It also has them for controlling the idle up for A/C, and for fuel cut off RPM. If I remember correctly, there are 2 VSV's for the EGR on a CA truck. Have to get back to you for that one.

    Start with looking for the manual, I'll try to post up tonight the rest of the info.
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Posts: 3
    Ye the truck is a california model, and i have also installed a new EGR vacuum modulator unit.

    I will certainly look into it deeper, that just may be my problem.

  • toyman812toyman812 Posts: 2
    open the relay and try to start it if the relay works you will see it click
  • toyman812toyman812 Posts: 2
    i have a lot of toyota parts 83 93 90 88 if anyone is needing anything let me know maybe i'll have what you need
  • jtill43jtill43 Posts: 4
    I am looking for a speedo cable for a 1990 toyota pickup base model, automatic trans four wheel drive, v-6 3.0L, can you help me out? And would you be able to ship it to me in Anchorage Alaska?
  • jtill43jtill43 Posts: 4
    My pickup when turned hard clicks sound like metal on metal contact, buddy of mine said it is common for toyota's Is it CV joints? steering? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  • pauliep13pauliep13 Posts: 44
    Yup, if you're turning the wheel all the way to lock, as in making a U-turn, and you hear a clicking or a sound like someone's beating under the front end with a ball pien hammer, then a likely culprit is the CV axles.
This discussion has been closed.