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Fuel Systems -- Maintenance & Repair



  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    May pour a tank of STP gas cleaner into the tank. It's suppose to remove/isolate any water... though if more than a few ounces got in I doubt it would do any good. May have trouble with gas line freezing when it gets cold. Could siphon remaining gas out.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Depends how much water got in there. It has settled to the bottom of the tank. I'd say you might either never go below 1/4 full if you can, or you can 'test' things out by deliberately going to 1/8th full or so and if the car starts to sputter, you might have to drain the gas tank to get rid of that much water.

    If it's just a teeny bit of water, the engine will burn that up after gasping a few times.

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  • My 93 Escort LX hit a deer a few weeks ago, and though I made it home I had to replace many parts of the body/radiator. Now, when I put the key in and turn until the fuel pump comes on, a flow of gas comes out the metal relief valve pipe which is connected to the top of the fuel filter mounted on the firewall. Any idea how to replace this valve without draining all the gas? :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Remove the connector and stuff a sharpened pencil in the connection, if it will snuggly fit. I've used this many times to block fuel flow. Of course, do NOT do this inside any building or near ANY open flame source. Dealing with gasoline at any time could cause a massive fire.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Put in 2 or 3 bottles of "Heet" or some other such water removal treatment. This is basically rubbing alcohol, which will combine with the water and then flow on thru fuel system and be burned, taking any water out of the tank.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Maybe tiny amounts of water.

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  • I have an 01 sportage and am getting no juice to fuel pump. Replaced f.p. relay and main power relay as well as main power fuse, still no power. Are there more than one relay for f.p.?any ideas would be appreciated
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Fuel Pump Operation

    1. Connect the data link connector terminals FUEL PUMP and B+ with a jumper wire.
    2. Remove the fuel filler cap.
    3. Turn the ignition switch ON .
    4. Determine if the fuel pump is running by listening for the sound of it at the fuel filler inlet.
    5. Install the fuel filler cap.
    6. If no sound was heard, measure the voltage between the fuel pump connector wire (G/Y) to chassis ground. Voltage: About 12 V
    7. If not correct voltage, check the fuel pump relay and related wiring harness.
    8. If you do not measure 12 V , check for continuity between fuel pump connector terminal wires (G/Y) and (B).
    9. If there is continuity, replace the fuel pump.

    10. If there is no continuity, repair the ground circuit.

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  • Have a 2003 Passat, 4 cyl. turbo. Gas mileage been declining for a year(from 30 MPG to 24 MPG). Car runs as well as ever-doesn't make sense. Tires inflated slightly above recommended. 58K miles.

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    has your daily commute changed? have you kept up with maintenance? has the gas changed in your area, meaning has your gas stations switched to using E10 (10% ethanol)?
  • No-nothing has really changed. If anything, I'm driving more conservatively and inflated tires higher. No leaks, nothing obvious.

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I would post your question in the Passat board. Since you have a turbo, there could be an issue there.
  • Thanks. I'll check it out. I should add that I took it to dealer a couple days ago. They said they didn't see a problem and to make sure I use premium gas. Didn't sound like much of a rec.
  • nscrfnnscrfn Posts: 1
    84 chevy c10 w/2bbl 305 has a dead spot in carb.Rebuilt carb thinking it would fix problem but it didnt.What else can be done to remedy this?Please help!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Did the rebuild include replacing the 'power piston'? A bad one can reduce acceleration a bunch.

    Lots of other things could be wrong, especially with a carb this old. Air leaks around worn out shafts on the throttle will make it run lean, etc, etc, etc.

    Problem in the distributor with the advance?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Bad vacuum advance will have this symptom. Also carbs need to be accuracy set up after the rebuild with everything in specification.

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  • jstawskijstawski Posts: 11
    Hi everyone!

    Here's my story! I have a 2006 Volvo S40 Lease that is up on April 1st. About 2 months ago my Check Engine Light came on and I drove the car to the dealer to get it fixed (still under warranty). They've told me the problem is the Throttle Body is dirty and they have to do a Throttle Body Service ($150). They also told me they will clean it up and run the computer test again to see if the problem goes away if it doesn't they will have to continue troubleshooting and fixing. This sounds to me that $150 can easily become thousands!

    Car history:
    On a very rainy day I drove the car into a big puddle of water and it hydrolocked the engine. The engine was changed at the same dealership mentioned above. I performed the scheduled maintenances and use regular fuel.

    I don't care to properly fix the car, i just want to fix it enough for the Check Engine light to go away until after I return the vehicle. I know the Throttle Body cleaner is $5 dollars, but although i'm a very handy person I don't know enough about engines to take them apart. I don't even think i have the right tools.

    What do you recommend? Should I try to clean the Throttle myself or let the dealer do it? Is it very easy to clean it? Take it apart? Should i take it somewhere else?

    Thanks in advance....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    This might help you.

    Cleaning Throttle Bodies

    Also check YouTube for throttle body cleaning videos!

    Without knowing what the code # was that the dealer scanned, I have no way to guide you as to whether their approach is correct or not. You might see if Autozone would scan your car for free and come up with a code for us.

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  • jipsterjipster Louisville, KentuckyPosts: 5,441
    What do you thinik of "Seafoam" for cleaning throttle bodies?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Not worth the price of the can. The TB needs agitation to clean. Seafoam is impressive with all the white smoke it makes must be good for mosquito control.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Yeah he's right. You need to scrub.

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  • jstawskijstawski Posts: 11
    I went to AutoZone and ran a diagnostic test. Here is the result:

    Code: P0171

    Fuel trim bank one condition

    The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sendsor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine. The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.

    Probable Causes:
    1. If bank one and two codes set together suspect fuel pressure or MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor.
    2. Oxygen sensor defective.
    3. Ignition misfire-repair.
    4. Fuel injector problem.

    Troubleshotting: N/A
    OEM Brand: OBDII

    The PCM has determined that during testing, the fuel system for bank 1 was too lean. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinders on the opposite bank).

    What do you think?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Well that's just a generic code, doesn't tell you much.

    This could be a vacuum leak in/under the intake manifold or a leaking "J' pipe for the evaporative emissions systems. Use of a smoke machine can usually dig this out. So you might snoop around for vacuum leaks...that will trigger P0171 I am told.

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  • jstawskijstawski Posts: 11
    I'm car ignorant so everything you just said is like chinese to me. Should i just take it to the dealership? The guy at Autozone told me that I hsouldn't trust any other mechanic with my Volvo other than the dealership cause they are very complicated.

    is he right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Don't you have some independent Volvo shop in your area. Maybe AAA can recommend one.

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Last I seen dealerships were running upwards of $125/hr for labor. Imagine taking two hours to diagnose and a hour to repair. Plus parts marked up at 100% would give me an uneasy feeling. Find a local shop specializing in imported cars.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Isn't the car still under warranty?

    Anyway, I would do a Google search on "Volvo S40 P0171". Like Shifty mentioned, what Autozone gave you is a generic description. doing the search will pull up this code specific to Volvo. You can read up on other Volvo owners issues with this code. It seems it is fairly common code with a few solutions.

    If you don't trust the dealership, you should be able to find an independent mechanic that specializes in Volvos (if you live near a city).

    Good luck.
  • jstawskijstawski Posts: 11
    I called a few shops in the area and they've told me it most likely is a faulty sensor. Since the car was still under warranty I called the dealer and spoke to the manager who tol dme to bring it back in. After a few hours of waiting they've replaced the faulty sensor which was still under warranty and everything was back to normal. Of course I returned the vehicle to the dealer right after that. Mission accomplished. Thanks for the suggestions.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Congrats! You got rid of the Volvo without costing you a dime.

    Another happy ending. :shades:
  • :confuse: I just rebuilt my edelbrock performer carb and now it continues to bogdown in between 40-50 mph. I checked the float levels and double checked the measurements of 7/16 and 15/16 drop. Engine will run great at WOT but bogs down when cruising. The manual says to measure the outer end of the float. Does that mean the end away from the pin or the end with the pin that holds the float???Any help isappreciated.
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