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Honda Ridgeline Maintenance and Repair



  • dokroxdokrox Posts: 2
    On my 2006 Ridgeline I had a problem with water coming up into the floor boards. We live on the Oregon coast where there is plenty of rain. Our dealer took it to a body shop and they discovered that the body underneath was not welded properly and hence there were gaps where water could come in. They welded these openings in two tries and the problem went away. Perhaps in dusty conditions the dust in coming up through those same gaps and, of course, cold air.
  • jesserkjesserk Posts: 4
    Thx for the info. I always drive with the fan system on fresh air and have the fan on high. This still does not help. Honda told me that there are holes in the kick plate right under the doors that go from the outside into the cab. So when dust comes off the front tires it goes in through the holes. Basically the inside of the cab is like the inside of a vaccum cleaner. This is if you have a window open. If you keep them closed, then the road dust gets in these holes and sits there. If you open the window while driving, after having them closed for a long period of time, the dust blasts in the cab. I tried this and there was so much dust in the cab that I couldn't see out the window and had to pull over. I opened all the doors so the cross wind could blow the dust out. It looked like my truck was on fire. Honda does know about this and their comment was that this is how the vehicle was designed and this is normal. I even have anti lock brakes malfuctioning occasionally and I attest all issues with this truck to the dust problem. Seat belts also malfunction due to dust in the lock mechanism. They won't do anything until it is too late and someone gets seriously injured or ill, or even worse. Then it will be too late. I have a 1968 pickup that doesn't get dust in the cab like my Honda and it only retailed at $1900.00 not $40,000.00 plus like my Honda. Disgusting!!! They should be ashamed of themselves.
  • gd12gd12 Posts: 2
    I have had a similar experience with my 2007 Ridgeline. Once in March and again today, when attempting to start the truck it appears as if there is no power whatsoever. If you turn on and off the headlights and then attempt to start, the power is back and the truck starts as usual. The residual problem is that the radio won't operate until a special code through a special procedure of button pushing (which the dealer talked me through) is entered. Other than that there appear to be no negative side effects.

    Because the shop can't repair a vehicle that is operational, I will probably have to wait until is stays dead or someone responds to this forum with some ideas on what the cause may be.

  • gd12gd12 Posts: 2
    I found the apparent cause of the two power failures - the positive battery terminal clamp was loose. The tightening bolt/nut assembly was as tight as it could go, but the terminal still slid around on the post. I added a shim between the post and the terminal clamp and now it is tight.

  • ljc2tallljc2tall Posts: 9
    I have a 2007 Ridgeline. Only have 42000 miles on it. It has developed a creaking sound in the rear suspension. Actually in the center of the vehicle. At slow speeds on rough roads it is very prominent. It does not appear to be coming from the struts. Anyone else experience this?
  • lem888lem888 Posts: 7
    I had the same problem a few years ago on my 2006 Ridgeline. It was the strut assembly and the dealer replaced it - I forget if it was under warranty or was a recall of some kind.
  • keef3keef3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Honda Ridgeline and I have a strange creaking sound at the rear end of the truck. The sound happens when I drive it normally on the street. To trouble shoot the problem I stand in the back of truck and jump up and down to simulate driving conditions. I have my mechanic listen under the truck and we can not find the squeak or creak. If there is a recall how do I get Honda involved? Is the strut assembly the creak? Is the strut the shock absorber? I don't think that's covered.....Who can help?
  • ljc2tallljc2tall Posts: 9
    I had the same problem this spring. I posted a question here but the only response was the one before your post.
    My problem stopped after I took my trailer with a full load of wood down the road. Not sure if a rock had gotten wedged in the suspension or just what it was. But it is gone now.
    I also jumped up and down on the bumper and was able to make it creak.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My 2006 Ridgeline clunks and rattles in the front, in slow turns over rough pavement.

    I would replace the struts, but there are also rubber mounts that might be the problem. I would hate to order the struts and replace when it's the mounts instead.

    I just remembered something from many years back. I sprayed silicone all over the rear spring mounts of some old car and cured squeaks. I might try this on my truck.

    It seem like Ridgelines have various problems and noises with both from and rear strut assemblies.
  • keef3keef3 Posts: 2
    ..I needed to jack up the truck and look around myself....I had a can of spray silicon and while I was spraying I found the creak. There are two short rods attached to each side of the rear assembly....they are about a foot long and the left side rod was broken and had become lodged against the inner wheel well. As the rear assembly moves the rod would rub and squeak....until I replace the rod I moved the part away from where it made the noise.....
  • Anybody else have a problem removing the fluid fill plug on the transmission? I could not remove it. Had to fill the tranny through the dipstick hole with a syringe and a long tube. Very time consuming. I broke 2 extensions trying to loosen up the fill cap.
    But it is a job that is finished and won't have too do it again for quite awhile.
  • I know that it doesn't matter to anyone but ljc2tall and kcclassic are one in the same. Lost my password and could not log in, so just made a new account.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I have a 2006 Ridgeline. It's the top model, the RTS, I think.

    My original tires have worn great, the best tires I've ever owned, but they are now 7 1 /2 years old, 53,000 miles and are getting noisy on the road. So, I'm getting close to replacing the tires, with the same Michelin as came on it. I think Michelin has slightly changed the tire name, but they still have a LTX MS and which seems to be the same tire and that is what I'm probably going to get.

    My Questions are about the TPMS sensors in the wheels:

    Has anyone replaced these?
    Has anyone run the truck until the sensors' batteries 'wore out'? (I assume an error message or pressure warning would be set if the battery was drained.)
    At almost 8 years old, should I just go ahead and replace the TPMS sensors when I put new tires on?
    Has anyone bought aftermarket TPMS sensors and had problems or no problems?
    (I've seen a comment the ones sold my Amazon will not actually 'communicate' with the truck and basically do not work.)

    I do know the original sensors do NOT have to be 're-learned' with a specialized tool because I have rotated the tires myself and the truck will pick up the correct sensor location. I've had several low pressure warnings and it always pointed to the correct low tire.

    Any help here would be appreciated.
  • If they are working leave alone. You also can't use aftermarket sensor because your TPMS lite will go on, because the TPMS computer will not read after market sensor. It reads only Honda TPMS Sensors. I had a problem with one of mine and I was getting my tires rotated so I had them change it (at Sam's Club). What a mistake. Not only did I pay for the one I had replaced, but then I had to pay Honda to try to match it to the computer in the truck because the TPMS lite came on. It would not read it so I had to have Honda put a Honda Sensor in and it solved the problem.
  • If the sensors are working, leave them alone. I had one sensor go out on a VW Jetta (2007). The "check tire" or "air pressure" light came on, but all the tires were fine. In any case, had to get a new sensor which was about $100 or so, and it had to be the correct one to work in a VW.

    Bel Air Car Guyh
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