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Ford Freestyle Maintenance and Repair



  • Dragging rear brakes are a real possibility.

    There is a dedicated thread for brakes only:
    Freestyle Brakes Forum
  • 01taurussel asked: "PS - Anybody know where to get those H13 Silverstar Ultra? Advanced Auto parts didnt have them in stock "

    I don't think they come in that size. Odd. I picked up Sylvania H13 XtraVision, a twin-pack at Pep Boys.
  • Car part stores around me have just the regular Silverstars in single bulb packages for like $23/piece! 1 place had regular halogens and that it is - very limited selection.....I just ordered some of those XtraVisions online from Amazon. I hear they are pretty good.
  • If you can catch a good sale on those XtraVision twin packs at Pep Boys, you can get them cheap. I forgot what I paid for mine, but I remember it was a screaming good twin-pack sale. The same H13 went out on my '05 F150 2WD, so I figure I might as well get the twin pack because the '05 Freestyle will probably have an outage before too long. They say replace them in pairs, but I don't see why. So what if the older one is slightly less bright?

    What I really want for my birthday is to fit a pair of LED fog lamps to the Freestyle. Gotta have that. Anybody seen anything like that? LEDs would be cool because they draw so little current (amps).
  • No PepBoys here in Wisconsin that I am aware of.....AutoZone, PartsAmerica (Advanced Auto) and Checker
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "I am only saying they could have pointed out a problem 5K miles ago so it would have been covered under the extended warratny"

    Pads are considered wear items, and I don't think they are covered by warranties.
  • I also today took our 2006 ford freestyle in because of rear brake issues. The freestyle needs pads & rotors. (and a caliper on the right side.) $500.00 dollars. There is only 31,000 miles on the car. I am not happy to say the least. There seems to be a problem from what the other posts suggests. Any solutions???
  • I think my 500 had a new caliper at about 25-30k....It was hanging and causing the brakes to be wrecked.......I was quoted around 300.00 for fronts on my 500 which I was told that needed to be replaced (also was told that my shocks are shot after I will take the brakes with a grain of shot.....)

    500.00 doesn't sound that bad for new gear
  • romie5123, See if a Ford dealer doesn't pick up the cost based on the recall. See Brake Discussion or google the words: ford freestyle brake recall 07N10
  • can anyone advise me on how to get inside the mirror.
    it has stoped deicing and i want to check for broken wire.
    john from cor. canada.
  • dukhookdukhook Posts: 2
    Have '06 freestyle with 45K miles. Developed pattern of starting ahrd. And then just wouldn't start earlier this week. Would turn over but not start. Lights would dim some so I changed out battery 2 days ago. Started okay for 2 days then same problem. Took 8 minutes of cranking to start. Finlly floored and cranked until it started. THinking fuel filter any other thoughts?
  • bruneau1bruneau1 Posts: 468
    I don't know if my problem is the same as yours, but my Freestyle was having cold start problems. The dealer replaced the throttle body under our extended warranty. Works fine now. Good luck. Have your codes checked- we had two codes come up and there is a TSB on this problem.
  • dukhookdukhook Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. When you are refering to check your codes, what are you refering to?

    TSB? Technical Service Bulletin right
  • coldcrankercoldcranker Posts: 877
    dukhook, The dealership service dept. should be told about TSB 06-20-7 by number so they can look it up, as it solves the problem:

    TSB 06-20-7



    2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle

    2005-2007 Montego

    Some 2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle, and Montego vehicles built on or before 6/6/2006 may exhibit a long cranking time or a possible no-start on initial start attempt. This symptom may also be accompanied by the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0300, P0316, P2107, and P2110. If the vehicle exhibits the long crank / no start issue, reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM). If the vehicle just exhibits these DTCs without the long crank / no start symptom follow normal Powertrain Controls/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual diagnostics instead of this TSB.

    Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 44.24 and higher or 45.3 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2006.9 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at the website.
  • coldcrankercoldcranker Posts: 877
    About the above TSB mentioned, it is covered under the federal government's EPA Emmissions Warranty, and the dealer should be reminded of that in case they forget, as many of them have done.
  • carolmfcarolmf Posts: 5
    One other thing we noticed with the chime is that when the door is open, the light on the dash is on that indicates the keys are in the ignition. Could this be a sensor problem in the ignition? And no, the keys are not in the ignition when this happens.... :)
  • I have the exact same problem. Did the EGR Valve solve the issue?
  • Yup, the transmission behavior in the Freestyle is a bit unusual but it's no mistake.
    It downshifts (allows the engine to rev-up) when going down a steep hill to maintain a steady speed. It means you don't need to downshift into a lower gear, like you would in most cars, to allow the engine to do most of the braking. This prevents brakes from overheating will extend the life of the brake pads. So, if you are coming down a hill, it keeps the truck from go more than ~5 MPH faster than when you were at the crest. To defeat this feature and let it coast faster, simply hold the gas pedal slightly depressed for about 3 seconds. If you push it very slightly, you won't rev-up the engine, but you will signal the computer that you want to let the truck coast faster.

    The trans also downshifts when you go uphill greater than a ~5% grade so that the engine will be reving alittle faster, just in case you want to pass or accelerate, so the truck will have better throttle response. I don't know of any way to defeat this, unfortunately.

    I like the feature where it downshifts on the downgrade because I don't even need to touch the brake, even though everyone else on the road has their brake lights going on & off. Just sit back, and let the engine do it's thing. I wish I could disable the downshifting on uphills though--while the passing response is nice, I usually just want to maintain a steady speed up the hill and don't need any downshifting.

    (Yes, I was an automotive engineer in the past...)
  • zobeszobes Posts: 1
    I need to replace a brake light and I can't remove the lamp housing from the back of the car. I have removed the two screws from the inside of the door but the housing still appears to be attached. I'm not sure what it's stuck on but I'm afraid of applying full force and breaking something. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas? Thanks!
  • jenn71jenn71 Posts: 2
    Out of the blue, my rear hatch on my 2005 will not stay open. I wondered if anyone had any similar issues. It is not a power hatch, just the basic.
  • jenn71jenn71 Posts: 2
    You should simply have to pull it out. It will feel like it's going to break off, but you should be fine. There isn't anything else you have to do once the two screws are off.
  • curtisc63curtisc63 Posts: 10
    I had to replace the gas liftgate struts on my 2005 a few months ago. Struts and install from my local dealer would have been $85. Struts alone from Ford were $35+/- and install was only a couple minutes each side. Very easy to do, no tools needed (that I recall).

    BTW - I believe NAPA also had the struts but they were ~$30 - not much different.

  • bobnu75bobnu75 Posts: 21
    Also, there are two pins with heads on the front of the assembly that pressure fit into rubber grommets in the body. Once the screws are out, if you grip the front of the light housing (on the side of the car) with your finger tips and wiggle it back towards the rear (it eventually comes out) to get the pins released from the grommets.
  • bobw3bobw3 Posts: 2,992
    I just had to replace the power steering pump at 72,000 miles. It didn't fail, but it's been groaning pretty loud on hot days. It was covered under my extended warranty, so I didn't have to pay anything ($0 deductable) but I'm wondering how much I would have paid if I didn't have the warranty.
  • Hello all.

    My wife and I bought our 2006 Freestyle with 80,000 miles on it last month. We love almost everything about it, the cargo space the comfortable ride, and its apperance. We have had a couple of things happen that I did not see addressed here in the posts I read. (I only read about half, but did do a 2006 search.)

    The first thing that has been happening is that after sitting at an idle for 5 minutes or more with the AC on it behaves strangely when put into gear. The warning lights come on and it revs and jerks. When truned off and then turned back on it is fine.

    The other issue is with the car surging as i did see on here. It does this at low speeds such as in a parking lot or when I slow down to park. This is disconcerting to say the least. I thought it was because I was hitting the acc. with my big foot while applying the break, but that is not the problem.

    Any help on how i can fix these issues would be greatly appreciated. I'm glad i found this board. It has a ton of great info. thanks to you all.

    Also, where can we get an owners manual? It was not in the car when we bought it.

    Thanks in advance for any help provided.
  • coldcrankercoldcranker Posts: 877
    There are occasional problems with the "throttle-by-wire" system on the Freestyle reported by some owners. That might be what you are seeing. Your foot on the accel pedal actually sends an electrical (not mechanical) signal to the engine. The accel pedal is directly connected to an integral transducer, and that might be the part that is going awry here. Also, the engine itself must receive the electrical signal via a sensor to command the engine throttle to move, so there might be problems on that end. A Ford technician is accustomed to these issues, since Ford has been using the throttle-by-wire system. I think there may be Technical Service Bulletins published by Ford for use by technicians to help guide them through diagnosis/replacement. A Ford dealership (service advisor) might be able to find that Technical Service Bulletin through a keyword search on their computers into that database.
  • coldcrankercoldcranker Posts: 877
    There was a discussion between myself and jrmust (among others) Click Here to view.

    The throttle body sensor (on the engine) and the accel pedal transducer are both possible failure points, and the discussion and Technical Service Bulletins cited may help you in a conversation with a Ford technician. Possible anyway.
  • carstenbcarstenb Posts: 37
    that part is worn/cracked on our 2005 FS (56k mls). It's in the repair shop right now and replacement will be around $500 as it is not covered by the ESP. I didn't find anything related on here but on another forum

    Seems to be not uncommon and a bit early for them to wear out. Does anyone know if there's a TSB out (couldn't find one)? Should i complain and try to get some money back or do i just have to accept it?

    Thanks, Carsten
  • coldcrankercoldcranker Posts: 877
    I did a search (starting to like that better than and found a cool PDF file some Freestyle owners may want to peruse. Click Here for article.

    Back on carstenb's subject (#1293 above), sells a motor mount (articulated bushing) for $71. Couldn't find the torque strut or transaxle roll resistor for sale anywhere.

    Caution: It seems very unlikely that all three of these would suddenly go bad at the same time. I wonder if the repair shop is putting their thumb on the scales here. A little extra business for them. I'd ask for the old parts back, although, if this is fraud, they might be able to rough the old parts up a little to fake wear. Just suspicious. Those parts normally break if the vehicle is operated over rough roads, but even then its incredibly rare for all three to fail at the same time, and especially after just 56k miles. Has the car hit any severe bumps recently? Those mounts and torque structural elements get stressed heavily when curbs or railroad tracks are hit hard, or just rough roads.

    I think if you complain to Ford it will go nowhere.
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