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Mitsubishi 3000GT help
kielbasa16
Member Posts: 11
in Mitsubishi
Hey,
I'm wondering about an intake system for my 93 3000GT VR-4. I was told that for a twin turbo a cold air intake system is not necessary and won't make too much of a difference. This same person told me to just go with the RAM intake. Is this true? Any information is always appreciated. Thanks.
I'm wondering about an intake system for my 93 3000GT VR-4. I was told that for a twin turbo a cold air intake system is not necessary and won't make too much of a difference. This same person told me to just go with the RAM intake. Is this true? Any information is always appreciated. Thanks.
0
Comments
I got this 98 3000GT SOHC, non-turbo. The CEL came on and I got it check out and the diagnostic said, "Fuel Trim Malfunction Bank #1 and #2." is that the O2 sensors that I have to replace? and it is what's causing my engine to stall, you know, rpm goes up and down and then, stalled. I thought it was the fuel pressure regulator so I changed it, that didn't help. All of your help will greatly be appreciate. Thanks.
Thanks, Ahmad
Does anyone with mechanical experience and / or Mits 3000GT expereince here have any idea what can be causing this problem. I already paid this dealership $700.00 for miscellneous repairs and I am not looking forward to what they're hinting at -- for a new transmission or some expensive transmission problems.
First of all, it's hard to believe with such low mileage and the way I drive it.
Thanks for replies and your time to do so
Turbomama
If anyone can help me out, or atleast tell me what kind of exhaust you might have on your 3000gt please help me out
Thanks ALOT, Joe
My Cousin owns a 95 3000GT non turbo
He wants to upgrade the brakes ..Would the VR4 OEM caliper fit on the non turbos ? Would that make a better stopping power?
Any other exhuast brand out there besides Borla ?
And since its non turbo what is the best setup suspension?
Thanks for your replies .
3 months ago the case The Diff came apart inside and cracked the tranny case. $4,700 !!!
I know the trans on these cars are a big problem. After getting the tranny replaced my
mechanic said I should have the timing belt replaced it was due at 60k. and it is a interference motor
and if it lets go it came damage the motor!. Ok had the belt replaced $1200.00!!!!
two weeks later I notice a noise coming from the motor . I took of the plastic timing belt cover
and noticed the belt was very loose? I drove it right away to the shop two blocks away and had the
mechanic look at it, he said wow its loose? leave it here do not drive it and i will check it out..
After sitting up on his rack for a one month! he called and says it looked like the belt skipped and bent
some of the exhaust valves and the motor will not turn over!!!!!!
I was stunned. The car ran fine when I dropped it off ! He is the one that put the belt on for $1,200
it came loose and now he wants me to pay to get the car fixed!
I am correct to say he is the one responsible for the work that he did. I should not pay a cent to
get the car fixed. and maybe get a refund for the $1,200 to put the belt in.
Not sure what to do with the car? It is only worth $5k in the book, just put in a new trans, clutch?
Any one know a good lawyer in the tristate area...................
Thanks for help,
PCfig
Who ever told u an intake system on a turbo car wud be nonsense was actually tlaking nonsense.
Any mod wether it be cat back exhaust to intercoolers. headers or intake as in this matter will be way better on a turbo car than any other non turbo .
just cuz u have a turbo is gonan triple the HP more than any toher non turbo so a 20Hp gain on a nontrubo car for intake will be 50 to 60 hp(hypo speaking- the best is the hks dual intake(foam heads)
I own a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000 gt SL and this is my 1st year with it in the snow . CAN anyone tell me How it handles in the snow and what to watch out for ???
:confuse:
tidester, host
Your not going to like this......
I would not even consider driving my '95 in bad weather,certainly not snow.I have 18" tires and manual trans but even in rain my tires spin from starts and slide at stops.The torque on these is a problem(as is the power,which is a good thing,usually).
If i were you i would invest in a "bad weather" car,something cheap but dependable.
Perhaps you will have better experience in your driving conditions.i live in MI,just took full coverage off today and put storage ins. only on it."She'll" be back out in 4+ mths.
Good luck.
I am new on this forum and I am tring to get an advise whether to buy 99' 3000GT SL with about 80K on it. I've heard that the transmission of these cars is not very good product and they are very defective. It is really a common problem ? Can somebody please advise me shoult I still consider buing this car or should I think about something else?
Thanks
AS
i own a 963000gt base i wanna get 3000gt vr 4 motor any every thing that vr 4 have i just wanna convert my 3000gt in to vr4 ..........is possible to to that if some one knows email me......aite
sunny
David
good luck
hope everything works out for you
tidester, host
When starting out engine stumbles at around 2000-2300 rpm (kickback?).
Local dealer said a component on ECM board down - replacement of this board exceeds $1000. When engine warm symptom goes???
I also am only owner of 1991 3000 VR4 with less than 55,000 miles and like you have driven car carefully since new. Area Mitsubishi rep. was very impressed with condition!
My question is about value - how can I set sale value - obviously respect Edmunds but isn't there a 'collector value' for this fairly rare species? Maybe E-Bay the only answer, but if anyone has input would appreciate it.
91 4BYE4-Florida
Steve, Host
Note that if you disconnect the battery for a while (a couple of hours) in an attempt to reset the system, your radio will not function until you enter the passcode. If you don't have the passcode, you'll have to take it to a dealership so they can look it up by the radio's serial #.
I have a '97 3000 GT SL, 77K miles. I am having an overheating problem of sorts.
I've changed the thermostat and replaced the radiator cap to no avail. It does not just overheat. I see no leaks or water leaking anywhere, nor is it boiling.
I check the radiator now before each ride and have to add water (approx 16-32 ounces)
Also, the overflow is full and water does not get pulled into the radiator when it needs it.
I don't even know what else to look for at this point (I'm not a mechanic)
Any help would certainly be appreciated!
Thanks!!
KC