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Mazda3 Lease Questions



  • CarMan@EdmundsCarMan@Edmunds Posts: 38,515
    Unfortunately, typically consumers are only eligible for the incentives that are available in the state that they physically live in. One usually cannot travel to a different region to take advantage of better incentives.

    Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
  • katiejo49katiejo49 Posts: 7
    I hope someone can help me decide if I'm being ripped off here.

    I originally went to see a Mazda 3i sport, one of those 0000 leases. It was supposed to be $199 a month for 42 months 12,000 miles a year.

    I decided to get the 3i Touring instead which was the same deal except it was $219 a month (no money due at signing.

    I had a $500 Mazda Loyalty credit & here's where things got confusing. I decided to add the taxes into the monthly payment, so I really would only need to pay $300 today for tags & registration.

    The guy subtracted the 500 ($11.90 a month) AFTER he added the taxes. I'm thinking he should have subtracted first & then done the tax on the lower amount. Also he insists there is a $300 charge at the END of the lease. I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to be.

    I signed the lease orger but not the lease agreement yet because the car was not on the lot. Did I get ripped off? He now says the payment with the taxes included is $240 a month. I'm pretty sure somethings wrong. And he was the AAA rep so he was supposed to be honest.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    The guy subtracted the 500 ($11.90 a month) AFTER he added the taxes. I'm thinking he should have subtracted first & then done the tax on the lower amount.

    The dealer is correct. The $500 is taxed because it is considered "cash back".

    Also he insists there is a $300 charge at the END of the lease. I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to be.

    The $300 is a disposition fee, or lease turn in fee that Chase charges. If you decide to buy out your lease, then the fee is $150.
  • biswajitbiswajit Posts: 15
    Hi Car_man or avidude,

    Buying/leasing my first car and hence need your help badly. Could you please let me know the MF and residual for a Mazda3 i Touring Sedan Automatic?

    Also, I am being offered 19500 with the moon roof, 6CD and Bose package, all taxes and fees inclusive. Is that a good price?

    I am located in Durham, NC, Zip: 27703. I also read about some $ 1550 cash incentive for leases, is that still available and if yes, is it available where I am located?

    Someone please help!!
  • fuzzynipsfuzzynips Posts: 37
    edited June 2010

    Factory invoice for this vehicle is $19,743, including $207 in regional advertising fees applicable for your area. I am unsure as to the vehicle use tax rate in your area so please either post that information or ask the dealer to give you the actual selling price of the vehicle before any fees and taxes.

    It appears as though the zip code you provided is not eligible for the $1,550 Mazda Customer Lease Support. You can find this out by going to Mazda's website and at the top of the page, clicking on Shopping Tools -> Special Offers. Enter you zip code then click on the More Details link on any of the Lease Offers. If the zip code you entered is eligible for the lease support, the fine print will say, "Lease payment based on capitalized cost of $xx,xxx after $1,550 Mazda Customer Lease Support."

    Without the lease support, the number you are aiming for should be no less than $500 under invoice. Personally, I would aim for a deal where the selling price of the vehicle is under $19,000 ($743 under invoice) since it is so late in the model year. Obviously you would decrease these prices by $1,550 if you are leasing from a dealer that is eligible for the support.
  • biswajitbiswajit Posts: 15
    Thanks fuzzynips for your answer.

    The dealer quoted 18500 + 555 (tax) + 444 (doc) + 74 (title) = $19573 to be exact.
    MSRP is $20,920 with options.

    What is the MF and residual value for such a vehicle?
  • delta737hdelta737h Posts: 606
    edited June 2010

    The $500 loyalty credit may not be taxable depending upon the state in which you reside. For instance, Minnesota does not tax rebates or manufacturer incentives. To wit... - t/CM2_009387.pdf

    It states:

    Rebate is any manufacturer rebate, or any incentive, cou-pon, discount, check, or credit, regardless of origin. Re-bates are not taxable.

    aviboy97 is correct to the extent that the overwhelming majority of states do tax rebates and incentives. I'm sure he assumed that you are from one of those states which is a reasonable assumption.

  • sk456sk456 Posts: 6
    I am sorry to inform you that you were brutally ripped off.. I bought my MAZDA 3i Touring in april for 36 months, 169/month, 12,000 miles/year. and i believe only a thousand down to cover tax and reg... i would never lease a car past its warranty period especially when you don't own it. also i would not buy the maintenance package.(scratches and ding fixed for free) if you read the small print you realize what a rip off it is.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    I am sorry to inform you that you were brutally ripped off.. I bought my MAZDA 3i Touring in april for 36 months, 169/month, 12,000 miles/year. and i believe only a thousand down to cover tax and reg

    I will disagree with your statement. The deal you got is out of this world, and keep in mind, leasing changes from month to month. This customer is not being ripped off, so, before you go and make a statement like that, I would have all the facts first.

    What was the MF and resid. on your lease? Selling price? MSRP?
  • katiejo49katiejo49 Posts: 7
    I have no doubt that I was probably ripped off a little, but thanks for your reply you made me feel slightly better :)

    It was my first time EVER leasing a car & I went in stupid. I only found this board AFTER & next time I will come here first & ask the appropriate questions. I probably shouldn't have been leasing because in the back of my mind I was thinking I would buy the car at lease end, I just didn't want to have a real high loan payment right now in this economy.

    I really laid out no money except for $300 so somehow I felt that might be a good deal, not looking at the larger picture. When I said to the guy at the end that the buyout price seemed high (I think it was 10,500) he said and I quote.... "a good lease deal is always a bad buyout deal"

    Live and Learn I guess, I'll be smarter next time. Oh!! and get this, they called me up & told me I signed on the wrong line. They want me to come back & sign on the right line. You would think that's HIS job to make sure I signed on the right line before I left. Oh, and I am in NY for whoever asked.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    edited June 2010

    I doubt you were ripped off. All you need to look at is the selling price vs the MSRP. It is disclosed on your lease contract. The manufacturer sets the residual, which is the buyout price. The money factor on the Mazda3 is pretty low as well.

    What was the actual sale price of the car? The deal you got sounded pretty fair to me.

    What your salesman told you about a good lease deal being a bad buyout deal is right. Because the car is worth more in the end, the buyout is higher. You pay the depreciation on the car, which happens to be low, hence the low lease payment. A high lease payment will lead to a low buy out because the car does not hold value well, like the GMC Acadia.
  • ws01ws01 Posts: 11
    anybody knows residual and MF for 3i touring and 3s models for 24 month lease with 15k per year?
  • roro4roro4 Posts: 5
    Just got quoted $295/mo OTD for a 10K mi/yr lease, nothing due at signing. Car would be registered in NYC. Seems like a good deal, would appreciate people's thoughts. Thanks!!!
  • bmack11bmack11 Posts: 36
    Hi Car_Man

    I'm a potential first time Mazda buyer. If you have a chance, could you let me know the MF and RV for a 36 month lease of a 2010 Mazda3 iSport Automatic with 12,000 miles? Please let me know if I left out any info.

    Thanks for your great work with this forum. I've read all 60 pages and have found them VERY helpful.

  • bmack11bmack11 Posts: 36
    Hi Avi-

    I'm a potential first time Mazda buyer. If you have a chance, could you let me know the MF and RV for a 36 month lease of a 2010 Mazda3 iSport Automatic with 12,000 miles? Please let me know if I left out any info.

    I was also wondering how a $1550 Mazda Customer Lease Support is factored into the price. In other words, if the MSRP is $17,855 and the invoice is $16,778 what is a good price taking into account the $1550?

    Thanks for your time.
  • jleve1974jleve1974 Posts: 3
    edited July 2010
    OK so I basically need to know if it's realistic to think I can lease a Mazda 3 (manual transmission) for under $200 a month for 36mos with no $$ down and 36K miles for lease term in NJ. Can anyone give advice?
  • bmack11bmack11 Posts: 36
    edited July 2010
    Just leased a 2010 Mazda3 iSport Auto, 36 months, 12,000 Miles ($.15 over), $17,855 MSRP, sign & drive ($0 down) for $218/month (includes everything except $300 disposition fee). My first time leasing anything. Any opinions on whether I got ripped off or did a decent job? Thanks.
  • That sounds like a pretty sweet deal. My first lease (24 month/24k lease) was back in 2008 for a Mazda3 i-sport auto with an MSRP less than that (negotiated to $14200) and my total after zero down was $250/month. Looking back, I think I could have gotten a better deal, so good job on your first time around.

    Can you give some details on your final negotiated price, discounts and money factor? My lease ends next month and I'm thinking about getting the same car as yours. What state are you in?
  • bmack11bmack11 Posts: 36
    I believe that the final negotiated price was $16,327. There was a $1550 Mazda Customer Lease Support. Money factor was .00185. I'm in NJ. I believe there was also a $200 charge for window etching which I told them I didn't want and they said it was already on the car. At that point I was so exhausted and frustrated (which is what they want), that I just gave in.

    For the record, I completely HATE the entire car buying/leasing process. There HAS to be a better way.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    For the record, I completely HATE the entire car buying/leasing process. There HAS to be a better way.

    Unfortunately, the car buying process can be very difficult, but, it does not have to be.
    Did you buy from an NJ dealer? They are terrible. Always have been.

    Since it is getting tougher for dealers to profit from new car auto sales with the dawn of the Internet and pricing being available and many units being sold well below invoice, dealers are forced to find other ways to make money, like adding VIN etching or raising doc fees. I'm a dealer and I am not saying I agree with this philosophy, but, in some cases it is a necessity.
  • delta737hdelta737h Posts: 606
    edited July 2010

    I haven't encountered any problems when I've negotiated with dealers. The reason is that I've educated myself to the extent where I know as much about leasing as anyone in the industry (at least the math part). The education process doesn't take long and it's a great investment particularly for those that lease vehicles often. Understanding the mathematics, however, is an absolute necessity. And, it can be a bit complicated depending upon how your state computes sales tax and how you want to structure your lease. The math can be a little tricky especially in those rare instances where the 1st payment is capped in the lease and in those states that compute tax based on the sum of the taxable payments (e.g., NJ, NY, OH). I haven't found one Ohio dealer that does it correctly and I blame the software provider and, to some extent, the dealer.

    At any rate and, for whatever it's worth, this is what I do...

    1st. I do research regarding residual factors, money factor ( always use the buy rate), learn applicable incentives, examine promo ads, and establish a competitive selling price using edmunds, KBB (Kelley Blue Book), and overstock at

    2nd. I create a one-page lease proposal with all pertinent data including a description of the vehicle, MSRP, adjusted MSRP (if necessary), sell price, amounts capitalized (e.g., taxes, acq. fee, doc fee, etc), cap reductions (e.g., trade credit, cash down, etc), money factor, residual factor, residual value, term, taxable payment, lease payment, amounts due up front (itemized), contract provisions (gap insurance, excess mileage charge, applicable disposition/purchase option fees). All numbers in the proposal must be dead on accurate. Ball park numbers don't cut it.

    3rd. I Fax/email the proposal to the dealer and negotiate via phone/email from the comfort of my home/office with my laptop excel spreadsheet (actually Mathematica) lease program fired up and ready to rumble! The only thing I'm likely to negotiate is the sell price and that only requires a few keystrokes on my laptop. And, bing-bang-boom, I'm done!

    The key (no pun intended) is that you must do your homework and control the deal. Never allow a dealer to control the deal by allowing them to ":run the numbers". Trying to figure out the dealer's numbers is often a pointless exercise and, frankly, a waste of time that will only cost you more money in most instances unless, of course, you have a copy of their LEASE WORKSHEET. This is a computer generated document that provides all relevant details of the dealer's deal. The advantage of having one is that it eliminates confusion and guess work provided you know what you're doing..

    A one-page lease proposal speaks volumes about you... it sends the message that you know and understand leasing. This quickly serves notice to the dealer, and so; they're not inclined to play games. The biggest advantage of a lease proposal is that it saves time, money, and aggravation.

    If you would like samples of my lease propsals, send me an email at

    and I'll be delighted to provide them.

    All the Best,

  • bmack11bmack11 Posts: 36
    Yes, a NJ dealer. I obviously have no problem with a dealer making a profit on the car, it just seems that they try to gouge you every way they can. There's this fee and that fee and this fee and that fee and oh yeah I forgot to mention this other fee. And of course, they can't explain any of these fees without being completely vague. Obviously it's my responsibility to do my homework, but the dealer/customer relationship is such an adversarial one that it amazes me that any cars ever get sold.

    My dealer tried near the end of the negotiation to show me that he was losing $1,000+ on my car. Please. I looked him in the face and laughed.
  • I see I see. So when you negotiated the final price to $16,327, was the $1550 Mazda credit then factored AFTER this negotiated price? So the price going into the lease paper work was then $14777?

    I hate the process too, but I know that when I did the negotiating over the internet, it made things a lot easier.
  • katiejo49katiejo49 Posts: 7
    I'm sure I'm posting in the wrong section but you guys were so helpful before I hoped maybe you could help me again

    When I got my Mazda 3i touring, the salesman set up the bluetooth. I loved it!! Now my phone died & I had to get a new phone, it's the same brand (samsung) but a different model & the bluetooth no longer works.

    Can someone explain step by step (explain like I'm in kindergarten) how to re program the new phone into the car? Thanks so much.....
  • fishboy1fishboy1 Posts: 1
    Hi Carman,

    Do you have the money factor and residual values for a base Mazda 3 i Touring? My credit rating is above 800, so I'll qualify for the best rate available. Cap cost is roughly $300 above invoice, but the Money Factor seems high (4.656).

    Only money due at signing is $262.

    Here is what the internet salesman offered me:

    1) Money Factor - .00194
    2) Residual Value of car- 59%
    3) Cap Cost of Car= $17,889
    4) Monthly cost= $262
    5) Total dollars due at closing= $262

    Anyone, have issues with Chase leasing?


  • mazdagrl3mazdagrl3 Posts: 1
    Hi fishboy,

    I just got a mazda 3 i touring. To give you an idea of what i got on a 42 month lease:

    1) MF- .00205 (4.92)
    2) RV- 53%
    3) Cost- $17,889
    4)Monthly cost- $253 (w $1500 down)

    And I'm a tier 4 credit, around 680 (which is not that good). If your credit is that good you should be getting MF of .00185. It'll only be a difference of like $15/ month, but that's your money, not there's.

    BTW, Chase stinks but that's who Mazda works with. My husband and I have 2 cars through them and a mortgage, but they purely go by credit score. Your rates however are purely the dealership tacking on extra percentage to make their money back since you got the car for such a low price. But don't despair, it's a bad economy... the NEED your business. Don't forget that's your best bargaining chip. :-) Good luck!
  • delta737hdelta737h Posts: 606
    edited August 2010

    Mazda doesn't work with Chase. Mazda isn't married to any bank. Mazda's finance captive is Mazda American Credit (MAC). Perhaps your dealer has an agency agreement with Chase to finance/lease vehicles.

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,880
    I don't know.... but, are you sure?

    Subaru Finance is now all run through Chase Bank. They've been pretty aggressive about taking over the financing for smaller manufacturers. It wouldn't be out of the realm of possibilities..



    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • delta737hdelta737h Posts: 606

    You could very well be 100% correct and so I could be mistaken. I was told by a local Mazda F&I guy, who I've come to trust, that MAC does all of its own financing but that was some time ago.


  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Mazda doesn't work with Chase. Mazda isn't married to any bank. Mazda's finance captive is Mazda American Credit (MAC).

    Whoa there, killer. Mazda American Credit does not exist anymore. They are strictly customer service for existing accounts as of October 2008.

    Mazda uses Chase as their captive. All loans and leases are subvented by Chase.
This discussion has been closed.