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2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon



  • I have a 2007 Yukon. At about 20,000 miles the rotors were warped, noticed by pulsating when you come to a stop and actually shimming dangerously when brakes were applied at high speed, coming down and around a Interstate curve. Had 115,000 miles on my '01 Yukon and never a brake problem. Now at 44,000 miles the dealer says the rotors are warped again. Know it is not my driving habits, been driving too long. Has anyone had a problem. I'm getting ready to contact GM, this should not be a problem.
  • I have 28,0000 on my 2007 mine, and I'm getting the pulsing in the brakes too. I also think they are warped. I've seen on other Tahoe reflector where other are experiencing the same thing. I've had problems in the past with the rotors that GM uses. I had a 2000 Impala that was plagued with rotor warppage. This time I'm though, I'm trashing the entire front system, and going with better calipers, and slotted rotors. I did this to my Dodge Turbodiesel, and the difference was remarkable.
  • would anyone know where to hook up the trailer power wire and the brake wire? In the manual it tells you to hook them up in the fuse panel but not to what fuses. I don't see any fuses marked trailer. Ours is an 07 Suburban LT2 4X4 with the trailer package.
    Thanks, Nico
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    would anyone know where to hook up the trailer power wire and the brake wire?
    I have an '06 Suburban 4x4 with trailer package and my vehicle came with a wiring "pigtail" for the trailer power and brakes. It attaches at the rear near the hitch. No need to go the fuse least with the '06 models.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Although, mine is a 2007 Yukon, likewise with rockman59, also came with a towing package with wiring and connector available next to the factory installed hitch.

    If your trailer wires must be connected to the fuse panel, you may want to refer to your 07 Owner Manual, Section titled "Instrument Panel Fuse Block"... For continous power, try the fuse slot marked [AUX PRW]; if you need the exact fuse for the Brake Lights only, there is a slot marked [STOP LAMPS]... For my 07 Yukon Denali, the information is shown on page #538 and #539...

    Just my opinion, connecting these wires, say from the rear bumper to the fuse panel under the front dashboard will take quite some time and effort. Can you splice these wires to the rear 12V Power Outlet for continued power supply and the brake wire to the brake-light assembly in the rear as they are fuse protected... Hope I did not mis-understand what you are trying to do... [non-permissible content removed] Luck!
  • After reading you message I decided to not use my read wiper on my 2007 tahoe. While I prefer using the wiper I had no problems seeing out of the window without using the wiper, and I was weather from very very light to not quite heavy rain. But I definately prefer having the rear wipers on.

    The only other problem with visibility I've had has been with the windows fogging up, but just turning the defogger on takes care of the front and side windows.

    As far as the dripping down. I noticed while washing my tahoe that there are channels in the door jam from the roof down to the base of the door that water flows through. That's probably where you're hearing the dripping from.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you talk about power and brake, you are referring to a standalone 12V power, to drive accessories in the trailer, correct? If so, you should decide whether you want to hook that to the standard vehicle battery, or attach it to a separate (addn'l) 12v battery.

    For brake wire, are you referring to an electrical trailer brake that is applied with a separate actuator, right?
  • I never did get a resolution. It has happened a few more times, but everything always comes back on after I turn the car off and wait a few minutes and turn it back on. I haven't taken it to the dealer because I don't think they'll be able to do anything about it unless it happens when it's there. It seems like too much of a hassle to try to explain it all and have them say there's nothing they can do. Sorry I can't help you more.
  • I have had the problem of the XM option disappearing from the Nav screen. After I turn off the car, it comes back. Weird. I haven't had any of the other problems. The clunking noise shouldn't be there. My sunroof rattles when open - an annoying problem. My Service 4 Wheel Drive notice comes on when it's in 4 wheel (when I really need it to be functioning) but I still seem to have all four wheels driving. Anyone had this? After I turn the vehicle off, the message goes away, only to say to service again after about 15 minutes in 4 wheel again. That stinks!!
  • Sorry for not being clear enough. I do have the big plug at the back and the tail, signal and brake lights do work from the factory. However the auxilary power and the brake controller are not hooked up. The wires are in the plug just not live. I need to tow a car trailer and would use the aux power to charge the trailer mounted battery for the winch. The trailer does have surge brakes but I would like to add the controller at the same time.
  • I have the 5.3 and yes, it is the flex fuel, which also kicks down to 4.
  • We have high winds in West texas which affects mpg quite a bit. Going 72 mph on cruise I usually get 19.6 mpg. City is usually 16-17 mpg. Much better than many fancy imports like Land Rover, Seqouia....Usually stays in V8 mode except for downhill cruising or tail wind. With tail wind I can get upto 28-30 mpg going 72mph. I wish the AFM was less sensitive in switching to V8 so quickly. Anyone have any ideas how to do that? There has to be a way to tune the computer not to be so sensitive. What a beautiful SUV though. I love it. :)
  • There was a recall or software upgrade on the tahoe over a year ago that supposedly adjusted the way the V8/V4 works. I'm sure you probably have installed already, but you may want to ask. However, I agree, even after the upgrade I think the truck kicks into V8 mode prematurely and sometimes even when it doesn't need to...
  • All I can so is HOLY HANNA. I want your truck. How the he!! are you getting that good of mileage? The best I've done with my 07 Tahoe is around 18 to 18.5 on the road. I'm getting as low as 11 in town or worse. Now the times it has been worse was when we've had a cold snap like last week and the rest of this bloody winter and had to warm up the truck. But that's the price you pay for living in Minnesota in the winter. But my best mileage was this past summer going up to the lake on weekends. I was hoping that some of it was due to the fact that it hadn't even really been broke in yet. Guess I'll find out this coming summer and hope like mad that I go up to meet yours. Wanna trade???? :confuse:
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    Look in your owners manual - page 433

    It indicates the fuse for a battery feed and trailer brake are installed - in the under hood electrical center - but the wires are NOT CONNECTED

    On page 434 it goes on to say The panel contains BLUNT CUT wires (as in not hooked up) for the trailer brake control -

    Good luck.
  • thought chevy folks might find this interesting....I ended up buying the Tahoe over the Sequoia for a few reasons: louder than the Tahoe, toyota satellite radio to use in-dash satellite functions costs $550 , remote start by Toyota is $650. I got a loaded Tahoe (lt3 package) with gps for $41.2k - about $2k less than a comparable sequoia without gps.

    Also factoring into my decision was the overall size of the Toyota and the plastic dash. I could barely reach the scan function on the radio and I'm 6' tall! The trade off for me was the 3rd row doesn't fold flat in the Chevy but I'll just remove the seats if I need to. Still the Toyota is a very good vehicle but the price point and features weren't where I needed them to be even though I was getting quotes at $1k over invoice on the Sequoia.
  • one thing I'm missing is any organized storage in my new coin holders, no dividers, no sunglass holder, no cubby holes up front, and just a big hole in the center arm rest in the front row that could hold a small child but can't organize 5 I missing something? was/is my vehicle missing something(s)? if I'm not missing anything, what the heck are these designers smoking?

    are there any good aftermarket accessories?
  • 73shark73shark Posts: 325
    Check out the console organizer, P/N 19166288 from GM. It works great!
  • My Tahoe has close to 18K miles on it. The road is flat and I drive conservatively on hwy, always use cruise, have replaced OE air filter with KNN. Tire pressure around 33-34 psi. Most of my driving is hwy. In town I cruise to stop lights and it stays in V4 mode when not giving gas. I seriously think it can get 22 mpg if the AFM can be tweaked to delay the switch to V8 power, the SUV has more than enough power to stay in V4 mode more often. Some imports (My ex Land Rover LR3 V6 costs 45K dollars has 210 hp and it is as heavy as Tahoe, but only got 12 mpg in town and 17 on hwy, that and suspension faults and 1200 dollar brake jobs and wheel cupping...forced me to get rid of it). European cars are so high maintenance like some women are....ok easy now I mean that half heartedly.
  • thanks...good tip...I'm going to buy that along with the coin holder...more than a little annoying that a $40k car doesn't come with these :mad:

    ...anybody buy a cell phone holder or sun glass holder that velcros to the side of the floor console?

    how about solutions for the cargo area...I'd like to remove the 3rd row seats and use a one piece seems that the only solutions are to cut holes in the cargo liner to go over the rails (again, what is gm thinking?!)...are there any mats/solutions that will hold the new mat high enough so that it sits flat over the rails? or other ideas?

    thanks, john.
  • thanks...I'll look into that mat...I'll post back on the accessories I ordered including a billet grill, coin holder, etc...
  • thanks, what rotors and calipers did you use. tired of the bad brakes. the factory doesn't want to talk about it. this is my 3rd yukon at the same dealer. go figurer
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    I highly recommend the Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads with the DBA 4000XS Rotors combination. I have had my OEM rotors and pads completely replaced on my 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser for over 25K miles now, very very little amount of brake dust and stops my TLC fast and firm every time. I have not had brake fade once throughout my trips up and down the mountain roads between Vail and Denver... also all of my city drivings too of course... When the time comes to replace the rotors/brakes on my 07 Yukon Denali, I will use this combination again without a second thought.

    BTW, the DBA 4000XS rotors look great too... be read for people ask you about where you got them if you do go with them rotors.
  • Hey tony, I just had the same thing happen with the service the 4 wheel drive light. I brought mine in the next day and it turns out that there's a service update for the computer. They had to flash the drive with an updated firmware and it seems to be fine now. I just did this this past Wednesday 1-31-08. Bring your's in and I'm sure this is what they will do. Only took them about 20 minutes and I was on my way back home. Pretty quick fix. I do have to say that when mine went on, it felt like something was dragging me down. I for sure felt a difference when it came on. But all seems well now after the flash.
  • mayhermayher Posts: 41

    I would love to have her contact information. My email is I will let you know how things work out. Thanks for your help
  • buyer4suv -
    I wondered the same thing as you about a cargo mat for the rear area with the 3rd row out and when I bought my Tahoe (I took delivery May 2006), so there weren't a whole of options at that time. I ended up buying the GM cargo mat designed for the LT1 package that doesn't have the third row seating. It is a plastic type mat (I got the GM rubber floor mats for the front and second row) - and surprisingly, it sits over the raised rails with no issue. I have stacked all sorts of heavy items on it and it always springs right back. I don't remember the number off the top of my head - but if you ask for it at your local parts counter, they should be able to point you in the right direction.
    Hope that helps!
  • Thanks so much for this info. I will definitely make an appointment to have this fixed. I was afraid it would be something terribly complicated and I just don't always have the time to sit for a day and wait at a dealership.
  • I have the upgraded Bose system in a 2008 LT3 Tahoe...and boy does it sound just very, very average even when playing XM radio stations......I swear there's no sound separation in instruments vs's just a mushed it just me or is this system just not that good?

    Even my Chevy truck with Bose sounded better. Anybody else think the same? Anybody easily upgrade it?

    Also, can anybody tell me how to get rid of all the exit ramps that are listed on the right side of the gps screen whenever I'm on a highway? They totally block the map view. I only want to know the next exit that's mine (and only when I'm near it), not every single exit known to mankind.

    Also, on the same screen, the exit distances are written in white on a baby blue background...Helloooooo GM...did you guys actually test drive this??? Cause if you did you would have realized you can't read it when driving 70mph!
  • thanks Todd...I'll look into it...
This discussion has been closed.