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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • dmykuladmykula Posts: 2
    this happens to my truck as well, but only when its close to needing an oil change. I think that your probably leaking a bit of oil.
  • 79cj579cj5 Posts: 7
    You need to remove your oil pan and check your the oil pick-up connected to you pump. It's about a half inch pipe with a 11/2" expansion with a screen. This screen will get clogged with trash and you will lose oil pressure.
    The pipe easily unscrews from the pump. I clean mine with gas and a small wire brush about every two years. You'll have to purchase a new oil pan gasket.
    If you let this go for very long you could have serious problems, I broke a rod in a 2000 318ci, this destroyed the motor. This was due to wearing out the rod bearings do to improper lubrication.
  • 79cj579cj5 Posts: 7
    The degree of dificulty will depend on your experience.
    But to help, I own a Chilton manual on every vehicle I own. It won't help with dignostics, but it will explain how to dismantle and/or install any part on the vehicle.
  • mbnovambnova Posts: 1
    I think this is the problem that I am having. I got under the truck and the power steering is leaking and dripping down all over. When I'm going down the road at a constant RPM the truck spits and sputters like an old time plugged fuel filter. Any further info on the wiring fix would be great.
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    I am dealing with the same problem on my 2000 durango 4.7L . I followed some of the advice on the blog stream dealing with this- I had codes for up and down O2 right bank sensors and "right bank too lean" codes. I also had an obvious leak from the power steering relay switch into the wiring harness. I had dealer rewire with part #56045483AC harness bypass and replace up and down right bank O2 sensors and put in a new PS relay switch. As others have experienced I had 50% improved gas mileage (from 10 to 15 MPG). The check engine light also stayed off- for about 20 miles !!! then came back on again and the fuel mileage dropped. I hooked up the OBD and sure enough the codes for "upstream O2 sensor delayed response" and "Right Bank Too Lean" came up again. I will be taking it back to the dealer but would appreciate any other input that would lead to a long term fix. One thing I haven't had done is create the alternative ground discussed.
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    please see my message #497. sounds like you are in the same boat as the rest of us. I just had the right bank O2 sensors and PS (power steering) relay replaced, and a factory bypass harness installed to try and deal with the problem. The bypass harness is an after market fix Dodge developed to replace the PS fluid contaminated wires in the harness. After the repairs, I had good gas mileage for about 20 minutes after I drove the truck off the repair lot (Lithia Dodge in Klamath Fall OR), then the engine light came back on and the mileage dropped. When I pulled the plug off the PS relay I see PS fluid again. Either the new relay is leaking or the shop never replace the bypass harness and the fluid is coming from the old contaminated wiring. I am calling Lithia Dodge on monday to see what they replaced and to get this problem cleared up.There is hesitation problems associated with this as you mentioned. I notice it especially when at a constant speed or easing off the accelerator. I have read the entire message board from page 1. I count over 30 messages dealing just with this problem. There is also references to replacing the PCM because it can be fouled with PS fluid as well (Dodge will pay for due to this leakage defect). One of the key features that would put you in the same boat as the rest of us is poor gas mileage, diagnostic codes of right bank O2 sensor failures or delays, and black soot with smell of fuel on acceleration. The hesitation may be due to erratic and prolonged fuel injection pulses because of the faulty information the PCM gets from the failed O2 sensors.
  • ricknmissaricknmissa Posts: 1
    My durango has the 5.9L engine in it and it has just recently overheated. I am looking to change the thermostat. Where is it?
  • cyman1cyman1 Posts: 2
    Im also having this problem with my 05 Durango. Its not always consistant, but there will be a loud ratteling noise coming from with in the dashboard area. The funny thing, is that I also have an 05 Magnum and it has the same problem. Sounds like something is loose or got stuck from within the Glove Compartment and is now somewhere within the dash board. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Not much of a mechanic... Thanks
  • mvukasmvukas Posts: 3
    Did this finally fix your problem. I have the same problem with my 2000 Drango, but not sure what to do. Did Dodge paid for any of the repairs.
  • mvukasmvukas Posts: 3
    My 2000 Durango is has the same problem. Did you finally find a fix?
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    In short no it did not. same symptoms and OBD readings. I suspect the wire harness bypass was not put in at the dealership as I had requested. Worse, I am getting the run-around when I ask details about the harness installation - if it was put in, what it bypassed, and connection points. I see no new work done to the main harness - no evidence of a bypass. I still have power steering fluid leakage from the wiring at the power steering relay and from the right bank O2 sensors. If the harness bypass been installed as requested, i doubt i should be seeing the PS fluid contamination at the O2 sensors. When I ask the repair tech if the harness bypass created a new ground for the upstream sensor I was only told "no, it was only an extension of the O2 sensor" indication it was not a bypass at all. I was told I had other problems that could cause the rich right bank fuel mix (the long and short term fuel trim on the right bank reads 30%) He wanted to do more work to investigate an exhaust manifold leak or maybe a computer problem. Until I am assured I have rerouted the ground to the right O2 sensors I will not submit to an expensive diagnostic into other issues. This problem is well documented. I firmly believe the primary problem is a faulty read from the O2 sensors to the computer caused by conduction problems in the wiring from power steering fluid. I may re-purchase the bypass harness at about 64 dollars just to see how it hooks up. It would be worth it rather than submit to the fleecing I can see the dealership is setting me up for. When i get the new bypass harness part, if I find out that in fact it was not installed or improperly installed- the dealership will be hearing from me.
  • ok the right turn signal works fine. when you turn on the left turn signal it flashes but the dash lights,cluster blinks as well and the right turn signal blinks too but not very bright and than when you turn on your headlights it all stops blinking and the left turn light on the dash just stays on..what do i do..
  • baja1996baja1996 Posts: 1

    I am having the same problem with my 06 Durango. We replaced the battery and the tire pressure and cargo lamp lights are on. How did you fix this problem?


  • anglergirlanglergirl Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Dodge Durango 4x4. Been a GREAT vehicle; very low mileage ... 52,000 original. I've been having an intermittant problem with the air conditioning. It will be working just fine; blowing cold air; and then it will just stop blowing cold air and start blowing hot ... or rather normal temperature air. Sometimes it seems as if turning the a.c. back off and on again will work; and other times there's nothing other than it randomly working again. I have no idea where to begin with the quest for the problem Have been told that if it's the "switch" repairs will start around $300-$400.00. I'd like to troubleshoot this on my own; or with some help from you folks; rather than letting my mechanic play guessing games. Anybody experience this or something similar?
    Please help!!!
  • mvukasmvukas Posts: 3
    Does anyone know where the bypass harness connects to. Is it the PCM and do you have to splice the wires in or is it just a connector?
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    When I did mine - I cut off the wires on the Durango side of the front O2 sensor. I reused the Durango side O2 coupler - by opening up the coupler and taking the cut individual wires out of the attached pins. I soldered in the 4 new wires (4 different colors) to the pins with each wire being about 6' long.

    It would be easier to go the Chrysler garage and pick up 4 new pins, but I completed the job at home on a Sunday.

    I reconnected / spliced the other end of the wires into 4 different areas. I do not recall at this time where those 4 wires went - but 3 of the 4 were over my the air intake for the air cleaner (passenger front fender - above the tire, under the hood).
  • pawnmanpawnman Posts: 1
    I been reading some of the messages, but maybe someone can help me out. I have an 02 5.9 r/t Durango, automatic. It has been babied since i bought it new; all factory maintenance, and to many add-ons to list. The car has had tranny and head problems since new, the dealers just never deemed it a lemon. Well it has been fine for a few years now and just recently it has started having hesitation problems when you accelerate. It acts like it is redlining at only 4000rpm. I am a firm believer in seafom and it has seemed to be a temporary fix. Yesterday I shifted into first to go through the gears, and when it went to second there was nothing, like it was in neutral, went to D and it shifted through fine. I have no engine lights nothing, I replace both 0 2 sensors 6mnths ago, I don't know what's causing it. Any suggestions?
    I did have some roadside dive mechanic tell me it was a crank sensor,a common problem on durangos according to him, I don't even know what that is.

    Any help would be appreciated
  • dungeonxdungeonx Posts: 6
    Need help Fixing My Speedometer. It only works any speed over 30 mph.... I have Checked the Fuses and the Connections, but still only works at 30 any one have any suggestions.... Thank you in advance....
  • babysis1babysis1 Posts: 1
    Yesterday while driving on the interstate, my durango ran hot, started studdering on acceleration, then finally cut off on me. I had someone look at it for me and was told I needed new head gaskets because water had leaked into the oil. I know it's kinda expensive, so does anyone know how easy or difficult it is to diy?
  • 79cj579cj5 Posts: 7
    I have figured out how my spitting and sputtering is caused; it's air in the fuel lines.
    The question now is how did it get there. Does anyone know?
  • msjuliemsjulie Posts: 1
    I have a 05 Durango and experienced the stalling twice and kind of wrote it off because I had driven long distances, it wasn't until my husband was driving one night, it stalled, lost all power, he told me I needed to take it in. Under warranty, it was the instrument panel, hasn't stalled since! However, the list of other problems goes on. In the year 2007 I was at the dealership 8 times! For major problems! Exhaust manifold?, Left side and then a month later it was the right side but, it was not bad when the first side was fixed, so they say! 02 sensors replaced, Ignition was bad ( I was driving and my speedometer stuck, all my panel lights came on and the car stalled, like I had turned it off!, There is something faulty with the ignition switch if you jiggle it, it dies without actually turning the switch. The brakes are a whole other story! The brakes on my "Lemon" have squelled for a year! They say there is no problem, applied stop squeak, but they still do it and even talked me into putting a set of rear brakes on the thing! To top things off, we were out of town, it was raining and my wipers messed up. Come on, WIPERS! The dealer wanted over $350 to replace them, only a dealer product, can't buy them at a part store, they were $140 and a mechanic friend put them on. Also, there is this annoying humming noise periodically when you close the doors. Wierd. They thought I was crazy when I told them about that, I didn't know if it was my sound system or not, still does that, and I saw another post about that so, I really am not crazy!! I'd be CRAZY if I bought another DODGE! Hope you do not have these problem!
  • jnick34jnick34 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Durango and it is Idling all over the place. When I first start it, it might jump all the way to 2000-2500 rpm. Then it will settle down. On the highway the rpm's are higher than they are supposed to be ( around 2100 @ 70mph). When I put the thing in Park the idle might jump up again or it will go up and down like i'm tapping the gas. I have changed the TPS, Idle Air Control, cleaned the trottle body, new battery, and changed my plugs and wires and I am still having this problem. Can anyone lend any ideas as to what to do. Thanks
  • yet i am another owner with this seemingly common problem im not very mechanically inclined but with your help i can identify the wires and fix the problem i already ordered a new sensor and left it disconnected sooo..uhhhh whats next?
  • jayjamesjayjames Posts: 1
    i had a metal to metal noise coming from my front right tire area. I replaced my bearing unit and looked at the brake pads they were still good. Now after one month its getting louder but only at low speeds and turning and now the brake pads start to make noises at braking. What is it i just blew 280 on bearings and i dont want to do that again please help

    ps i had the rotors checked left side lil more worn then right thats it
  • elojselojs Posts: 1
    my 2000 dodge durango has been heating up lately and i suspect it's the
    radiator fan clutch. when it's at idle , the fan is turning very slow and thats when it starts to overheat. my problem is how do you keep the water pump pully from turning when i try to remove the clutch from the water pump. theres probly a tool for this, but i'm not sure. any information about this would be appreciated .
  • 79cj579cj5 Posts: 7
    First of all do not remove the pump from the engine; even if you are replacing your pump, remove the clutch first. Also don't remove your serpentine belt yet either, it helps with resistance. Now thake a small set of vice grips and attach them to the inside of the pulley in a way that the vise grips jam against part of the pump to keep it from turning. Now remove your clutch.
  • 79cj579cj5 Posts: 7
    Test your upstream O2 sensor.
    Also I may be misunderstanding the situation with your RPMs, but 2100 @ 70mph is normal.
  • jnick34jnick34 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I will try that next. The rpms are higher now than they were when I bought it. My highway speed rpm's was around 1600-1700 not the 2100 where it is now. What does the upstream O2 sensor do and how does it affect the idle while parked and rpm's while driving. Thanks in advance
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    check to see if you have power steering fluid leak at your power steering sensor. If there is fluid leaking when you disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor then you have the first symptoms of a potentially bigger problem. If you PS sensor (relay switch) has failed it will affect your idle. Worse is that over time it will leak PS fluid into your wiring harness and foul the ground of your right bank O2 sensor causing drop in gas mileage and rich right bank fuel mix with black soot out the tailpipe. If the PS relay is leaking disconnect it and get it replaced before it causes you a real nightmare.. See previous messages on O2 sensors and related responses- there are many!!
  • kjs4kjs4 Posts: 3
    I am having these same problems and my durango is a 2000. I am wondering what sensor it was that was replaced and what size motor you have? The model of the tranny would help also if you know what it is.
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