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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • steelman4steelman4 Posts: 4
    the sensor itself was the speed sensor, located at the top of the tranny. the motor was a 5.2l far as the tranny itself,,,i have no ideal what it was. i ended up getting rid of it...the brakes would not last over 20thou. no matter what type or kind you installed, plus the tranny started acting up again, replaced sensor again, did not help, so i figured out how to solve my a Chevy Tahoe..durango was getting 9 mpg around town,,,,Tahoe is bigger and has more power and i am getting 17 mpg around town...wished i could have helped you more though with the Tranny model.
  • kjs4kjs4 Posts: 3
    This helped alot for us. We have had it for several years and had the tranny rebuilt once already. We are going to change this sensor as well and see if that helps. Maybe even enough help to take it to another place and get rid of it. That is our plans as well. We are not satisfied customers of the durango. Thanks for the help so much.
  • kjs4kjs4 Posts: 3
    I have to let you know that after changing that speed sensor it is still doing the same thing. Do you have any other ideas as to what it may be.
  • lisam1lisam1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Dodge Durango and also am experiencing a loud hum AFTER I turn off the ignition. Did you have any luck in finding the cause of the hum in your durango?
  • jem6465jem6465 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Durango Limited, On occasion the turn signals do not function. I took it to my Dealer and he told me he could not help me unless I got it to him when it was not working (big help). It has happened about 10 times in the last month.When it malfunctions it may lastfor 10 seconds up to 1 minute. Of course when it malfuntions I am never close to a Dealer. Thanks in advance John
  • HI there! My camshaft positioning sensor is out to but i got a new sensor i just cant find the other one on the engine to replace it any info would be greatly appreciated thank u!
  • starlastarla Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what the problem was? I have a 1999 Dodge Durango that may be doing the same thing?
  • yeah! in the distrutor cap theres a wire coming out of it(the sensor) i got it replaced and the bad boy started right up! the problem with mine was it wasnt starting! hope it helps!
  • It all started when I was driving my Durango and stopped at a light. When I wentto move, I was flooring it and only going 5 mph. Eventually it shifted and threw a engine code (Shift Sylanoid A Malfunction) Did it off and on. On the way to have teh shift sylanoids replaced, it jerked and grinded the whole way there. Trans shop said my trans welded together from it overheating. Trans rebuilt, new shift sylanoids. Truck threw the same code. Took it back, nothing. Again threw a code and nothing. Finally they sent it to a computer specialist, nothing then to a dealer. They reset a computer and replaced a Pressure Sensor. It worked great for about three weeks, until today. Stuck in traffic on highway, started to hesitate when shifting. I noticed the temp runninghigh again which happens each time. It was about 240 when 210 is normal for my truck. Then it threw the same code. The whole way home,when I would stop, I could not get it going again. I don't know what to do. IT DID NOT DO THIS WHEN THE WEATHER WAS NICE OR IN THE WINTER!!!!! Help please. I am a poor teacher who really needs my truck fixed.

    Thanks :confuse:
  • Its on the right side of the engine towards the front . on the cylender head. It is hard to get to. You have t remove the aibox. One 10mm bolt holds it in.
  • 2000 durango 5.9L. Started idling funny like it was not getting enough fuel. Yesterday stalled in the driveway. Will turnover but it wont fire. Stepped on the gas peddle and it will run but when I take my foot off it dies. I have been seeing this problem alot on these fourms with the Durango. I just dont see any replies to fix the problem. I am trying ti figure out if its a fuel pump or a sensor problem (TPS) maybe. Please help. Only vehicle right now and it dont run. :mad: Well now it just git weirder. I went out this morning and it started fine. Stepped on the gas peddle and it died again like the engine is flooding
  • 98 dodge durango starts and runs as long as I stay on the accelerator. It dies as soon as I let off. Any body point me in the right direction? Thanks
  • I purchased the bypass harness from the dealer for my 2000 Durango. It has connectors on either end. I can figure out where the connection is opposite the O2 sensor. Other posts here say it connects to the PCM. I think I know where the PCM is but do not see a standard 4 pin connection going into the unit. Please tell/show me where this should plug into.
  • The PCM is the box near your air intake on the fender wall above the passenger wheelwelI. It has 3 large groups of wires that plug into it. I don't know which of those trace back to the o2 sensor- I thought the bypass part came with a schematic drawing to layout the connections. I would love to know what the bypass wiring part looks like. I took my 2000 durango to the dealer to replace the sensors and install the bypass. they put in the sensors but I can not see any evidence that they installed the bypass and i still had the problem. After a big run around from the dealer I simply disconnected upstream o2 sensor which improved my gas mileage back to a like new 18 MPG highway ( from 12 MPG highway when the sensor is connected). The reason this works is without the o2 sensor connected the PCM remains in an "open loop" which puts your fuel trim (LTFT, STFT) at zero (no leaning trim under light load or rich trim under heavy load). when the R bank o2 sensor is connected it sends a false reading that right bank of cylinders are too lean.This false reading causes the PCM to adjust the right bank of cylinders to get a fuel to air mixture 30% too rich!! Of course this is all due to faulty grounding of the O2 sensor due to power steering fluid contamination.
    I could never pass a smog test with the o2 sensor disconnected because it trips the engine light on (even though the exhaust is very clean.) I have wrote extensively on this discussion forum about the problem. I have a call in to Lithia Dodge Corporate office (the repair shop) to file a complaint about their failure to install the bypass. It would really help to know exactly what the bypass wire looks like (connections, wire length etc.) so when I talk to the corporate office I will be better informed. read my other messages if you like. i will follow your discussions and maybe if we continue to report on any progress we can get both our cars fixed
  • Its about 3'9" long has a 4 pin male connector on one end and a four hole female receiver on the other end. In addition to the part number 56045 483AC it has a large "A" tag on it also. It has a total of 6 plastic mounting ties that should press into holes in the body. Due to the connectors it appears it should just plug in somewhere. I can't afford the milage loss...maybe I try disconnecting the existing wire also. ANYONE OUT THERE INSTALL THE BYPASS HARNESS?
  • If you disconnect the right bank upstream o2 sensor coupling (the sensor on the engine side of the cat on the passenger side of the exhaust ) from the wire harness, your mileage should jump immediately up to a like new condition. I tied the loose end of the disconnected o2 sensor wiring/connector to the tranny fluid line with a plastic tie. This is just to keep the dangling end from touching the cat or exhaust pipe and damaging it. the harness end is out of harms way so I left it as is. I took the durango on a 800 mile trip and picked up a 2000LB boat and trailer and hauled it home. I have one of those real time and average mileage readers. My average freeway mileage without the trailer was 18MPG over the 900 miles and 14 MPG hauling the boat back!! No performance problems even over mountains. If you have one of those mileage readers in your unit you will see the difference right away. If not a quarter tank of driving tracking the mileage should make the mileage improvement clear. In about a tank of driving you should be able to clear the carbon build up and even see better performance. If this does not fix the problem I have some alternate causes that i could tell you about. Thanks for the description of the bypass I am sure now that it was never installed- and I prepaid for the unit on special order!
  • although I can't tell you the exact connections for the bypass wire into the PCM, I can tell you I was quoted about 2 hours for the repair. from what i was told the engine harness is pulled loose from the chassis, split open from the o2 sensor up to the PCM and the bypass wires are installed inside it. three of the four wires apparently route to the PCM and one wire routes through another branch of the main harness to a common ground (down by the radiator). When the main harness is split you should be able to route the wires. However, other message forums on the site discuss the fact that the only wire you really need to bypass is the ground wire. this message also discussed replacing the harness side of the connector using new pins which he soldered to the wires where he cut off the old connector on the harness side. since you have a new harness side o2 sat connector with the bypass you purchased you could look into using the 3 existing harness wires not contaminated. You could do this by cutting off the old harness side connector, solder the cut harness wires to the appropriate (cut) ends of 3 of the new bypass wires. Leaving the ground wire of the new bypass harness intact, re route the ground wire externally along the main harness and connect to the common ground. This would save a nightmare job of removing splitting re routing and re installing the main harness. apparently only the ground wire gets contaminated with PS fluid because it is the only wire the o2 sensor shares with the PS wiring. by using a new o2 harness side connector you correct the contamination to the old connector. there may also be contamination of all the wires on the o2 sensor side of the connection because at that o2 sat connection the PS fluid could leak into all four wires from the contaminated ground out of the harness. In other words you should consider getting a new o2 sat unit also.
  • HUGE thanks to this site and all who posted regarding the "O2 Sensor + Power Steering Pressure Switch Nightmare". My 2000 Durango, with the 4.7L engine, has recently suffered the same symptoms described in many other posts. Black sooty exhaust, horrible fuel mileage, engine light on, and sluggish when running. I took it to the dealership and was given an estimate of $700 to replace both of my O2 sensors, the power steering switch, spark plugs, and perform a "superinduction injection flush". Obviously, after investigating on my own and reading the posts here, I learned that none of that would have resolved the problem without the ground wire being changed. It saved me a ton of money, time, and frustration with the "we can try this" or "we think it could be" that dealerships love to hand out. My truck has 100,000 plus miles on it and I'm not planning on dishing out that kind of cash on repairs. I disconnected the upstream O2 sensor and she runs great. Fuel mileage is right back where it should be. No hesitation or sluggish feeling. Most of more exhaust fumes while driving! Plan to take it to a "mechanically inclined" friend of mine this weekend who can fix the whole issue for approximately $250. That includes parts and his labor. For now, I'm just gonna run it as is with the disconnected sensor. Never trusted the dealerships anyways. The majority of them do treat women as if we are completely clueless. $700??? Are they crazy?? I need that money to get my hair and nails done!! LOL!!!
  • Glad to see you found this information before getting taken by the dealer. I my case it was even worse. I knew what the problem was and told the dealer Lithia Dodge of Klamath Falls, OR what I wanted done. I had to special order the bypass wire ($90) and ordered the upstream and downstream o2 sensors from them (at twice the price of an auto part chain store like pep boys) all this so they would do the labor. Total cost $800. Problem is they never installed the bypass wiring- the mechanic said I didn't need it- that it was just an "extension wire" for the o2 sensor and not my problem, Instead told me I may have an exhaust leak or my PCM damaged etc. etc. (trying to extract alot more money for" try this and try that" repairs like you mentioned). I asked for the bypass wiring be returned and he said "I used it" but when I pressed him about the if he bypassed the sensor ground he repeated "that's not the problem". See most of the dodge dealer's "certified repair techs" don't know about the problem and they think the customer is stupid and they think they know everything. There are many stories about people taking their cars in to the dealers for this problem and having to bring it back in 5 or more times (paying dearly at each return visit for work not needed) before in frustration one of the mechanics would call the corporate repair headquarters and find out about this unique flaw in this one make and model year of the durango. I still drive mine with the o2 sensor disconnected. I have filed a written complaint with the Lithia Dodge Corporation specifically for charging me for the o2 bypass wiring and not installing it or returning the part. Are you planning on doing your repair by the book ie; using the bypass wire from dodge and routing inside the harness or just doing it using your own wiring? Also you really only need to replace the right upstream o2 sensor on the engine side of the cat, not both right side sensors. and you also don't have to mess with the left side o2 sensor either unless of course these sensors were damaged due to the black soot or age. If you have your engine light comes on after your repairs get readings from an OBD meter and let me know what they are before you proceed. Good luck. Please keep us apprised of your repair methods and results. alot of people including me who would like to know.
  • forgot to mention- replace your power steering sensor also. that it were the leak into the wiring came from in the first place. if you need more info on the how or why on this message me back.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Hi, I just got a used 2003 Dodge Durango SUV today.
    I want to get an extended warranty on that.
    Which company has the best extended warranty?Are 3rd party warranties better than Dealer/Factory warranties?Is a reliable agency?They have some nice deals with pretty decent coverage.Any other suggestions?
    Thanks .
  • Did you ever get this resolved? The same problem started on my 1999 Durango 2 weeks ago and my mechanic can't find anything wrong.
  • So...I talked to a lot of people and did a lot of research on my own and never found a way to fix it. I changed all the sensors and the chip, among a few things. I was told that kind of problem was pretty common among 1999 and 2000 Durangos; that because of the way the fuel injection system was set up the fuel filter would get sucked into the injection system and the car would knock off, then it would be released back down and the car would be able to start. I changed the fuel injection system and it still stalled. Finally, I was told that it was that it needed a new harness which holds all the wires going to the chip and possibly all new wiring as well. I just couldn't it anymore and recently sold it for only $1000 to a mechanic who said he could fix it with no problem...ran into him the other day and he is also now trying to sell it. Of all the research I did on the problem and contacting other people with the same problem, there were only 2 people I found that were able to fix it, and they both only changed the sensors. So, good luck with that...I'm jaded already...I'd say to just move on, try to get rid of it and get another car. It seems like taking a loss, but believe me with the amount of money I spent in fixing it all the time and borrowing cars....I could've gotten another car. I depleted my savings on the Durango thinking that the next thing would fix it and it'd be okay but it never did and now I have no car at all and can't afford to get another one right now....gotta save some money first.
  • Hello,
    I have a 2001 Durango SLT with the same problem. When I crank the eng the first time it does not start. But on the second time it starts and idels rough. Did you ever get yours fixed and if so what was the problem?
  • I finally spent the big bucks and replaced the PCM for $600+ last week. The problem has not reappeared.
  • tsimptsimp Posts: 3
    I assume that this is the same for a 2000 Dakota. I cut the white wire between the O2 sensor and connector and attached to a new ground. Still smells rich when running. Any other ideas for PO171 error?
  • I have a 2000 Dodge Durango with 161000 miles. It is in great condition but the cel came on and it has a hard downshift from 3rd to 2nd and then once you come to a stop it has a smaller but still hard downshift from 2nd to 1st gear. I replaced the input and output sensors but the problem is still there. HELP ME!!!
  • Did adjusting the latch fix the low tire pressure indicator as well?
  • did you ever get an answer on this? I'm having the exact same problem. Changed the battery now can't get the tire pressure light or cargo lamp light to go off.
  • I have seen several posts on this forum about people changing batteries and then can't get the tire pressure warning light and cargo lamp warning light to go off. Has anyone found a solution to this? I changed batteries last week and ever since, can't get either light to go off. close the hatch door a couple times after I start the engine, the cargo lamp will go off. The tires all have good pressure. This just seems like a strange symptom that has occurred to several people with the Durango reading through this forum.
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