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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • Try replacing your battery cables and terminals. I had the same problem and found the connection with the battery was poor. This also results in a clicking sound without the engine turning over for many as well.
  • My nephew had the O2 sensor issue due to a leaking Power steering pressure switch. We spent the better part of an afternoon to re-wire around the ground connection to the O2 sensor and he has no problem now but I was worried about my Durango getting this issue. I checked the pressure switch a few times and then I figured I would avoid it altogether. I cut both wires to the switch and used 2 splice connectors (the kind where the wires are laid parallel and are connected by way of a squeeze connector. Now, the switch can leak all it wants, should it fail, and it won't cause any issues other than some drips of PS fluid which will tell me that the switch failed so I can replace it.
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    Sounds like a good solution rather than having to check for PS sensor leaks. As you probably know a new sensor relay is less than 30 bucks and takes two minutes to replace if it ever does start leaking, I would like to know the method your nephew used to bypass the )2 sensor ground. I currently have my sensor connector unpluged which also eliminates the fuel mix problem but of course trips the engine warning light. I would like to do the O2 sensor ground bypass so the engine warning light would work like it is supposed to.
  • '01 Dodge Durango: Doesn't shift into 4x4 now, neither 4HI or 4LO - all fuses OK - suggestions?
  • I am thinking about purchasing this vehical as a second vehical for towing and bad weather driving. It has 90000 on it. How long do the engines on the vehicals last. I have always owned Dodge Pick Ups and been very happy.

  • Debbie, I have a 99 Durango SLT with 145,000 on it. The vehicle runs great and go's just about any where I need it to. The only thing I changed on it was the air intake and exhaust. I put a K&N cold air intake in and a FlowMaster exhaust system. The engine dosen't use or burn any oil and sounds as good as a new one.
  • Thank you very much for your responce!
  • whenever it is cold my durango has some weird problems going on.

    all the dash lights come on and the speedometer, the oil gauge, the battery gauge, the rpm gauge and the gas gauge all stop working. also the light that shows what gear you are in is gone.

    once the car warms up all this returns but sometimes im driving for 40 mins before this happens . i live in illinois so its pretty cold in the winter time.

    is this some sort of glitch? or is there something broken that can be fixed?
    i dont really want to take it to dodge because the last time i did they tried to tell me a whole bunch of stuff was wrong with it that wasnt wrong with it.

    ive already replaced the central control modual (or something like that) one of the computers because i lost all the power doors and windows the head lights and the wipers. at least with what ever is wrong right now i can still drive it.

    thanks kristen :sick:
  • Please help me. My husband and I have been trying to figure out what is up with our vehicle. He is right now looking at every fuse in the vehicle. As we were coming home today our dash lights went out. We figured it was a fuse and waited till we got home to look. We then noticed we had no parking lights and the license plate lights were also out. If it is a fuse or module, which one? Everything thing else works just fine. Please help, I hope its an inexpensive fix. This vehicle is seems to giving us a lot of headaches as of late. I cant take another $300 job and neither can our bank account. lol Thank you.
  • Can anyone tell me how/where to route this wire? I just ordered one for the same problem everyone else has had (and the supply of this harness is dwindling), but I don't know where it goes or how to get it there. Based on others description of this part, I'll be unplugging something at the PCM to insert this harness, but what does that affect? Will the PS pressure switch then be disconnected and throw a code again? I've been running without the O2 sensor plugged in for a few days and performance is right back where I'd expect it but with an inspection coming due I won't pass with an engine light on.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    I don't have an answer. But in respect to all those other 2000 4.7L O2 sensor sufferers in this forum, all of us out there that are checking emails for incoming edmonds forum to see if someone has answered this question. All of us that have attempted to install this harness bypass have asked it. If you have a willing and more competent parts dept person than I do at your local dodge dealership, they may be able to get the schematic and installation instructions. As for the smog cert, you may have some grace period for registration tags out of date, Pay the registration fees on time without the smog cert indicating you are in the process of smog repairs. You can get a 90 day grace in most states. Check for your state.
    A warning to anyone going to the dealership for repairs- you go to them with these symptoms and they will charge hundreds even $1000+ replacing o2 sensors, doing fuel injection flush treatments, or replace injectors at $100+ each, or worse. None of this fixes the problem. It has to do with Power Steering (PS) fluid contamination from PS sensor failure, and leakage of the fluid into the harness ground wiring. PS fluid contaminated ground wires cause the PCM (Power Control Module) to send bad signals to systems like the fuel injectors, idle speed control,.and the problem child -the right bank upstream O2 sensor. The weak O2 sensor ground signal is interpreted by the PCM that an overly lean condition is in the right bank of cylinders. The PCM then sends long and short term fuel trim messages to the right bank of fuel injectors sensors to increase fuel mix to max rich causing soot and mileage drop. If you have this problem those are the problem codes the OBD2 will show. (right bank to lean, slow response on several fuel injectors, R bank O2 sensor signal delay) When the car is cold the sensors are inactive and defaulted at 0% which is a clean burning efficient fuel mix.
    The whole problem begins with a loss of PS fluid and idle speed variations due to the initial PS switch failure. This occures long before the O2 sensor finally fails. Maybe early detection of PS fluid loss and timely replacement of the PS sensor could save some from this disaster.
    Waited too long? there is hope- as I mentioned a simple unplugging of the upstream (from the cat) O2 sensor will bring the operating function back to normal. The PCM signal will stay at zero default mode which won't hurt the car. Gas mileage soot and performance will seem better than they have been for a long time. I went from 14.7 average MPG before the O2 failure. Suddenly I'm down to 8MPG when the problem hits, I now get about 16 average MPG. My engine light is on and because of the this it would not pass a smog test - if that is an issue for you at least you can continue operate the vehicle as normal until you get ti fixed.
    I spent over $500 at the dealer for sensors and harness bypass install. They didn't install the harness saying I didn't need it. They didn't install it because THEY DON'T KNOW HOW. The part comes with no instruction or diagram.
    I would sure like to see the solution posted on this forum. I will keep checking edmonds and waiting. For all those who don't have to worry about smog certs. and haven't already done so, replace the PS switch (30 bucks and real easy). Leave the new PS switch unpluged- it will just get recontaminated. runs fine unplugged. idle speeds are the best in years,- (PS switch sends to PCM to control idle speed -unplugged defaults to a steady 700rpm). The new PS switch will also stop any PS fluid leak. Finally unplug the upstream right O2 sensor. Secure all loose connector ends with plastic ties away from heat and harms way of the fan belt and exhaust pipe. Your car should run fine unless you have something else wrong. Smog certifiable aside, at least you can use your car without damaging cylinder walls, valves, and the cat. Peace
  • I had a problem with my 98 jimmy and come to find out it was the dimmer switch, I replaced it and everything is fine try that it is simple and cheap from a junk yard. Thanks Ed 98 Dodge Durango/98 GMC Jimmy
  • if that didnt help! have the manul for the 98 99 durango,dakoda it has a list of stuff. Incorrect idel speed,Fuel filter clogged and or water and impurities in fuel, Fauity fuel system or sensors,Fauity plug or plug gap or wiers, Vacuum leak at throttle body,intake manifold or vacuum hoses
    be happy to give whatever help i can from book or my own exp.
  • mcpryormcpryor Posts: 2
    dont know if anyone has thought about it, but my check engine light came on yesterday, and it says that it was the CAT! so my hubby reset it all and I drove it about 100 miles before I went to get it inspected today, ( had doctors appt an hr away)... anyways, right before I pull in, the light came on again!! MY LUCK!! so off to the shop we go, they replace the O 2 sensor and send me on my way, less than a mile down the road, BOOM!! Check engine light on again, still getting the same reading as before!! So, get my oldest from school and back to the shop we go...... MY O 2 SENSOR WAS FINE,............ ITS THE O 2 SENSOR RECEPTACLE..... it is damaged and we have no idea how, probably for the fact that it is almost 11 years old, LOL!!! so please, when you go in to have that sensor replaced, have them check the receptacle and save yourself some money!!!! :(
  • Should we be thankful that we're not alone in this dilemna? I have suffered the same symptoms and thanks to this site, saved hundreds or thousands on repairs. I disconnected my O2 sensor and my truck has run fine. Engine light stays on, of course. I live in a rural area so no need to worry about passing the emissions test. Was wondering though, if so many of us are having this issue, what does it take for dodge to realize it? I think there should be a recall.
  • I have a 2000 Durango with this very same problem. Unfortunately, like many others I had to fiure it out myself as Dodge is no help whatsoever. I am a DIY'er, because I cannot afford the incompetance that most dealerships provide. My problem started back in 2007. I figured out the power steering switch link to the failing oxygen sensor, but like a lot of people, I still have gone through several sensors due to residual fluid in the wiring harness. Luckily, I have not needed the truck much since I only use it to pull a boat. But I cannot pass emmissions until the problem is fixed, and thanks to our state's new laws, I have been fined $50 for exceeding the inspection period. I have decided to tackle the problem and hopefully provide specifics: i.e. wire colors, locations, etc. so that anyone else who cannot afford dealership BS and runaround can have a solution to this problem. It has been mentioned in these posts before, but from what I have found, disconnecting the front O2 sensor will make the truck run much better if you are having the low MPG/black soot problem. This is caused by a faulty O2 signal caused by the power steering fluid contamination. When you disconnect the O2 sensor, you will get a fault, but it will put the computer (PCM)in a default mode that basically assumes the sensor is dead and will ignore the signal (or lack therof) and instead rely on a preprogrammed algorithm to make up for it. It is not the optimal settings, but you will get 15-16 MPG instead of 4-8, as you should not have the heavy black soot at the tailpipe anymore. For those of you who do not have to deal with a OBDII emmissions inspection, this is really all you need to do since the default program is almost as good as with the sensor (I personally cannot tell a difference). Unfortunately for those of us with emmissions, we have to fix it. I started my repairs last night, and hope to report back soon with specifics for all the DIY'ers out there if it has not already been posted here.
  • atownatown Posts: 1
    My durango won't start. It cranks over but no start. The fuel pump comes on and I get 45lbs of pressure at the fuel rail. I sprayed carb cleaner in the air intake and nothing. I hit the gas tank with the back of a shovel and nothing. I'm lost! People say it's the fuel pump ,but I have doubts. Any help!!!!!
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    Good luck. The moment I have been waiting for. I hope your method includes using the dodge harness bypass. This problem was remedied by dodge but no one including the dealer repair techs have a clue. It is incredible that I couldn't get competent service to get this fixed at my dodge dealer. I tried to tell them what the problem was. I pre-ordered the harness bypass. The corporate auto service division knows about the problem. They made a part to bypass the problem for crying out loud. But somehow the huberous nature of the service department mechanics they "assume" every common problem except what is really wrong with the car. I burned 1300 bucks total on needless repairs including replacing all 8 fuel injectors, 2 O2 sensors etc (no wonder Dodge doesn't bother to do anything about the real problem!). They denied my explanation of the problem and quoted me another 800 bucks to do exhaust repair PCM module replacement and on and on.
    When I finally realized I was going to have to tackle fixing it myself, I found it outright scandelous that I can't find out how to install the harness bypass from my dodge dealership, from Dodge corporate, or from any other Dodge source- internet included. In fact this site is the only place this information is being discussed. This is a unique problem to the 2000 4.7L. In 1999 they didn't have a power steering switch (sensor) and by 2001 they fixed the PS design flaw. I agree with Julia there should have been a recall but it doesn't appear one was ever issued. Instead they just threw the replacement part out there and gave no direction to the dealerships to alert the mechanics, parts people, or the public. And we wonder why GM and Chrysler are tanking?
  • I am not using the Dodge Bypass Harness. Given what I have read about it, and the cost, I am simply making a bypass harness myself. I have not seen it, but I assume that the harness offered by Dodge has to be "hard-wired" in to the wire bundle leading to the PCM. I have positively identified the signal wire in the main bundle. It is light green with a red stripe. Unfortunately there is more than one light green wire with a red stripe in the bundle. The other one goes to the transmission. I ended up cutting both to figure this out. There is also an isolated signal ground that is black with a blue stripe. Again, there is more than one of these, so getting the right one is an arduous task. Once I identified both of these, I was able to simulate the signal and watch the Fuel trim response in the PCM with a code reader. I determined that my O2 sensor was bad (another one) so I was unable to complete the hookup just yet.

    I purchased a Bosch "Universal-fit" O2 sensor, but am skeptical if it will work, because I have read (and measured) an excitation voltage of 4 volts on the signal circuit. What I have read is that this voltage is part of a 'diagnostic function' that Dodge came up with to test the sensor, and only a Dodge O2 sensor will pass, otherwise setting another code/engine light. I am going to try the Bosch sensor in this setup first, since it is half the price of a Dodge sensor, and see if it works. leave it to Dodge to not only send out a defective vehicle, but make proprietary parts for it as well.

    I am going to try this over the weekend and will report back with results. Once I get it all right, I will try to provide more information since Dodge has again "Dodged" the responsibility. By the way Chrysler, I will never buy another of your products, and hope your company folds so we can get junk like this out of America. :lemon:
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    from what I under stand it is only the ground wire that gets contamintated because of a common connection it shares with the power steering ground. It looks like the o2 sensor and PS ground wires join and are connected in the harness about 4- 6 inches above where the upstream sensor wire branch come out. From earlier messages once the PS fluid reaches the o2 sensor connection it can then leak from the ground wire on the harness side into all four wires on the o2 sensor side because of the exposure created at the connection. This can ruin or foul the o2 sensor, the wiring and the connector when you remove and try to test it. I don't know if there is a way to get the PS fluid out of the wires. Other repairs posted involved cutting the connector on the harness side of the o2 connection, replacing all four pins on the harness side of the connector, and bypassing the contaminated ground wire by rerouting an new ground from the o2 sensor to the common ground on the engine block below the water pump.
  • All of the wires get contaminated at the harness connector junction. There are some people running a separate ground wire and getting results, but I would not recommend this approach for two reasons: 1) you leave the O2 sensor wire in the harness with the power and ground wires for the heater, which it can also short to and ruin the sensor/degrade the signal. 2) the O2 sensor ground is not a ground in the sense of most other components. It is an isolated ground from the PCM that all sensors utilize. Grounding sensors directly to the vehicle chassis is grounding them to the same ground as the ignition coils, starter, and other electrically "noisy" components which can result in a bad signal to the PCM, which will create all the same problems as before. This may not occur immediately, or may never occur, but simply "re-grounding" the O2 sensor is not a good idea for a permanent solution.

    You can replace the pins in the connector, but this still does not remove the ps fluid still coating all of the wires. While this may remove the immediate cause of the problem, the O2 connector is still the low point on this wiring harness, and eventually will again become the collection point for residual fluid in the harness. I can imagine this is why Dodge created a "bypass harness" since they realized that it was the best thing short of removing the entire wiring harness and cleaning the wires with de-greaser. (a viable option if you are that determined :) ), or replacing the whole harness - $$. Unfortunately, it appears that most Dodge "techs" are ignorant of how to install it, since it only occured on one model vehicle, in one model year.

    I sucessfully finished repairing mine yesterday after 1.5 years of screwing with it, researching it, and letting my Durango sit in the yard (could not get it registered with engine light on)

    If you look at an engine wiring diagram (hayes, chilton, etc.) it shows the four wires to the O2 sensor. There is 12V for the heater, a "chassis-ground" for the heater, a signal wire from the sensor, and a "PCM-ground" for the sensor. (I am making up the ground terms to keep them separate, do not look for them in the manual) . I left the sensor connected to the heater and heater ground, since I had proper voltage there, and the heater circuit fuse has not blown. The heater circuit can handle a lot more contamination than the sensor circuit since it can just "burn" through it, so I have left it intact for now since it is not part of the problem.

    I ran two new wires from the sensor, the signal and "PCM" ground wires, up to where the PCM is mounted on top of the right fenderwell in the engine compartment. (the black 'signal' and gray 'ground' wire if you are using a Bosch universal replacement) From there I opened the main harness leading into the PCM and located the wires. The signal is a light green with red stripe,(note there are two wires this color, one is O2, one is transmission, I used trial and error) and the "PCM isolated ground" is black with a blue stripe. The signal wire must be cut, and the new wire from the sensor connected to the end going into the PCM. If you do not cut it, but rather spice it, you have essentially left your sensor connected to the point of contamination that you are trying to avoid. The ground wire must be spliced into the one in the harness bundle so as not to disconnect other devices using the same ground. I used an automotive crimp style spice sold at auto stores.

    So far I have driven 70 miles with no problems. I have a scanner, and both oxygen sensors are reading fine. The front sensor switches from @ 0.080 volts to @ 0.810 volts at a regular interval. The system is running in closed loop mode like it should, and there is no engine light.

    I understand this may be somewhat vague if you are not somewhat handy with automotive wiring, but this post is half a novel already so I will leave it at this for now to see what areas are clear and which are not so they can be answered in future posts. If I get the time I would like to put the whole procedure on a webpage with pictures since Dodge is not really helping anyone and this is the only place on the entire web that is.
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    very informative. There is room for a website where expert mechanics post detailed repairs and answer questions. It would be awesome to see this website take that on,
    I'm sure whoever does it that it could be monetized with ads from every auto part store.
    I still have a couple questions.
    Do you know the wire colors from the original factory o2 sensor- Are they the same as the Bosch?
    You determined the correct wire between the two same-colored wires in the harness @ the PCM (tranny vs O2) using "trial and error". What procedure did you perform, and what result were you looking for, to determine which was the correct wire?.
    Let us all know the name of the webpage if you create it.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I think you're there. :shades:

    There's also Edmunds Answers.

    Mostly the trick is using the search tools if you have something specific you need info on and then post if you don't see a thread that helps.
  • I do have a (possibly stupid) question, if the PS fluid has made its way to the connection on the PCM, will the bypass wiring solution (running seperate ground from O2 sensor 1 to PCM) still work? thanks!
  • FINALLY!!!! ladies and gentlemen, I want to express on how HAPPY I am to find this thread. To date, my Fiance and I (her 00 Durango 4.7L) have spent in excess of $700 thus far trying to figure out this friggin problem. The local shop we had it at recognized the issue, but simply unplugged the harness from PCM and cleaned it. 3 consecutive days in a row, trying to get all the PS fluid out. Still yet, she drives a mile or so and I don't need to explain how the thing runs. Crappy mileage, heavy soot, and it hardly wants to accelerate and sometimes lurches while at stops. I am going to try unplugging the upstream O2 sensor as described previously, just so she can drive it for the time being until we can get enough $$ saved to try and do this bypass harness. Darned Durango has costed us some of our wedding fund!! LOL just trying to keep it light, thanks to all who are posting here to help out!!!!!!!
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    the fluid leaks through the wires from the PS unit to a junction that branches into larger harness about 6-8 inches above the right upstream o2 sensor. Fluid can be seen leaking at that junction and at the O2 sensor outbranch and connection These are the low points in the harness. The PCM on the other hand is way upstream on the terminal end of that section of the harness. To high up to get contaminated (i hope). I suppose if the PS fluid was really leaking bad and had some pressure behind it PS fluid could travel or "wick" uphill and contaminate the PCM but it seems unlikely.. ncdodgeowner's method would likely provide a clean connection by grounding at the or near the PCM using a splice. The other 3 wires can get cross contaminated at the o2 connector from the old ground wire leaking PS fluid at the connector pins and then recontaminate the new ground. A very early message talked about replacing all 4 pins on the harness side of the connector and using a new o2 sensor because those wires are contaminated for sure. Still waiting to hear from ncdodgeowner's repair to see how it worked out and anymore specific details of the repair
  • kandokando Posts: 1
    Hello there Mucuna...I have a 2000 D that just showed the check engine lite, i found the code 0551 for the power steering switch. Do you know how to replace one? Can a handy person do it?
  • mucunamucuna Posts: 19
    This is so easy to do yourself and your immediate attention is needed to avoid the possibily of thousands of dollars of repair. You can purchase the sensor from your dodge part dealer. they will look up the part for you. (power steering sensor switch) it is about 25 bucks!. they will ask for your VIN # so have it handy when you go there. Buy a quart of PS fluid also.
    To remove the old sensor, you can locate it on a metal tube right below the backside of the PS fluid resevoir. Easy to work on and freely visible. It is a silver color - looks like a lug nut- with a black connector and two wires coming out of it (black, green w/red stripe). Uncouple the connector at the sensor (it has a little side clip you squeeze in with your fingers (should come off freely). The sensor itself can be unscrewed with a common wrench . PS Fluid will come pouring out but this is better than draining the entire PS system- you should only lose a small amount of fluid out of the resevoir which you can top off later- use you finger to keep to much fluid from leaking out while you switch the sensors. With all these components you should used firm tighting but don't herf on it and strip the threads. replug in the connector and your done. Spray off the PS fluid from any painted, rubber parts by using a water hose (PS fluid corrodes paint and rubber).
    A bigger issue however is if you have PS fluid in the harness wiring from the bad PS sensor leaking into the wiring. If that is the case it will (or could) eventually travel through the harness down under the car and contaminate the ground wire of one of your O2 sensors. When this happens you performance gets so bad the car is virtually undrivable. Dogde dealers in general have no clue about the causality of this problem and proceed in doing thousands of dollars of needless repairs, There are allot of 2000 dodge durangos out there with this problem and dodge dealers are making $book$ on the repairs. I believe this is one reason they don't invest in educating the repair techs on a national level. The proper fix should only run about 400 dollars replacing an o2 sensor and doing a o2 wiring bypass through the harness.
    Check the PS sensor connector immediately for PS fluid leaks. You may have even notice losing PS fluid on the ground. If you have any PS fluid in the connector when you remove it from the PS sensor leave it disconnected until you make the sensor replacement repair. Your car will run fine- in fact it may stabilize your idle RPM since a bad PS sensor sends bad signal to the PCM - idle control module.
  • Mucuna thanks for your reply. I did disconnect the upstream O2 sensor, and did notice that the connector itself was saturated with PS fluid. However after I disconnected the sensor I am happy to say that my Fiance can at least drive the vehicle now until we find out more details on the repair. I did contact a dodge technician from the dealership that does side work, and have yet to hear back from him on the issue. again thanks to everyone on here who is helping out.
  • I do not know the original sensor wire colors. The trial and error was just that. I thought I had spliced into the correct wire, until it set a transmission code. I only realized that there were two wires of that color after reviewing the wiring diagram. When I switched to the other, the O2 reading showed correctly.

    Update: I have put 350+ miles on the Durango with no further O2 issues. I was finally able to get it to pass the state OBDII emmissions test and back on the road. The Bosch universal sensor seems to be working fine. I read elsewhere that it is later model Durangos that must have an OEM sensor to work. Way to go Dodge - plan your own obsolescence!

    The wiring that I installed for the bypass was very rudimentary and "fly by night" so I plan to get back under there and clean it up, since I do not believe it would last the long haul. I just did what was necessary to prove weather it would work or not, and so far it has been sucessful. I am getting an overall average 16 mpg, which is "unfortunately" good for this vehicle, but better than 6mpg, which I was getting when all of this started.

    Start this repair by purchasing a bosch universal fit oxygen sensor for your car since your sensor is likely bad anyway. Follow the instructions as written to match up wiring. The instructions give all of the wiring codes. Once you identify the signal and ground wires, do not connect them as instructed. Instead, utilize the splice supplied, but do not hook up the corresponding signal and ground wires from the old connector, only hook up the two heater wires. Run two wires separately from the splice kit up to the PCM from the signal and ground, carefully routing them with wire-ties and or some wire braiding cover to protect them since this is all located near the hot exhaust pipes.

    Once you have the two wires routed to the engine compartment, you will need to cut open the large wire bundle that snakes around from the back of the engine to the PCM (a box with several wire bundles leading to it, NOT the fuse box) I made my splices between the back of the engine compartment and the PCM where you can open the bundle cleanly along about a 8" section. For the signal wire, you must cut the light green wire with a red stripe on it. NOTE: there are two of these, the other one goes to the tranny, so you can either continue cutting the bundle open to figure out where each one goes, or try one, then the other. Connect your signal wire to the end of this wire that leads to the PCM. As for the other end of the wire, you can just leave it hang. It is the source of contamination, and leaving it in the circuit defeats the purpose of the bypass.

    For the ground wire, locate one of a couple of black wires with a blue stripe on it. There are a couple, but according to the diagram they are all common to one another, so it should not matter which one you use. They are all isolated signal ground. Again, you can spend a lot of time tracing this out if you want, but once you see how difficult this is in the tight space, you again understand why dodge just said bypass it. For this connection, you do not want to cut the wire, but rather splice into it. They sell crimp style connectors for this at all auto stores which enables you to connect one wire to an existing wire without cutting it and having a big nasty three wire splice. If you cannot find these connectors, you can just cut the wire, but you must connect them all back together to keep other sensors connected also. That is the extent of it. After testing, you can neatly incorporate your bypass wires into the wire bundle and close it up with zip-ties or electrical tape. Of course, you will need to reset your codes, and it is helpful to have a scanner available that you can read O2 sensor values to ensure all is well before closing up. Good luck!
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