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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • kymankyman Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Durango SLT 4.7l that has just started running hot. It doesn't run hot when driving, only when sitting at idle with the transmission in drive. If I'm in stop and go traffic, it only takes a couple of minutes for the temp gauge to spike. But, I can drive it for an hour then come home and park it in my driveway and let it idle for 10 min with the trans in Park and it won't get hot. Does anyone know what could be going on?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Assuming the coolant is topped up and there's no serious leaks:
    1. The clutch on the fan is bad and the fan is not running at the right speed
    2. The radiator is clogged with corrosion and the coolant flow is restricted
    3. The water pump impeller is worn and not circulating the coolant

    When your not in stop and go traffic there's usually enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool with out the fan running fast. My gut feeling would be to look towards #1 first, based on your description. There's also an electric fan but it runs when the A/C is on to assist in cooling the condenser in front of the radiator.
  • Same here! ALOT of people having this problem. This should be a recall but dodge does not honor their work so here is the solution to your problem. You need to replace your ecm computer and your idle air control motor and valve. If you only replace the computer in about 2 years it will fry out again giving you this problem that you have now. Trust me. Spent way to much time and money on my wife's 2000 durango! This is the only cure to this problem. Don't go and blow your hard earned money on the dodge dealer they don't care about people like you and me. Take care.
  • rods3rods3 Posts: 1
    baffled! fuel pressure at 60 psi, no leak down, all 4 O2 sensor new, egr new, all new plugs, wires, B&G cleaner for intake, injectors, fuel system. starts great cold. runs fine while driving. no codes! any suggestions?
  • my truck was doing the same thing..started great cold but when hot it would turn over but not fire til 15 or longers minutes than would start. we took it to advance cause we had no codes, they put the little machine on it and it said my camshaft sensor was bad, we bought it for $18 and put it on and so far no problems...been about 3 weeks now.
  • I have a 2002 Durango SLT and my blower motor resistor wiring harness connector just burned up. The Dealer wants $700 to fix it. I went to area junk yards to see if I could find and replace the part myself. I saw many Durangos with the connector and resistor already cut out. The staff all advised that they are a hot item that they can't keep in stock. Their view is that this frequent problem is the result of a design flaw that should have been the subject of a recall. They also suggested I try Ebay. Has Dodge taken a position on this problem? I would appreciate any other advice available.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    edited November 2010
    I finally changed the heater core in my 2000 Durango over the weekend. No big surprises, but the instructions I downloaded off the internet that were supposed to be right out of the factory manual were useless and ended up in the trash right away.
    I found it was easier to take the front seats out. For the 15-20 minutes it took it was worth it. The steering column didn't need to come out, just dropped to the floor. I wish I had removed to console also (bucket seats) since the center support for the dash has a bracket that gets in the way when trying to set the dash back in. It would have been easier to remove it but the console would have to come out to do it.
    There's lots of connections to de mate. The lower nut that holds the plenum assembly is very difficult to get to, I removed the right front wheel and the wheel well plastic liner to get to it. It's right behind the right head (the transmission dipstick tube is also there) but it can be done. The expansion valve connected to the evaporator core needs to be removed before the plenum since it has a bracket attached that won't go through the firewall hole.
    The new core was an aftermarket and is slightly different in shape. The tabs down in the bottom of the plenum housing had to be modified. The instructions said to remove them, but I used a Dremel tool and modified them just enough to get it to fit. I was concerned it would rattle around otherwise.
    Since it's necessary to discharge the A/C I also replaced the evaporator core ( I was advised it's a good idea) but the old one was just like new. New receiver/drier also, but that's typical when opening up an A/C system anyway.
    No trouble reconnecting the A/C parts (use new seals and o-rings) and pumping it down. I haven't been able to fully charge it yet since I ran out of time and it really isn't warm enough out to do it right anyway.
    The hardest thing was getting the two support bars under the steering column back in. They look like they're an afterthought anyway. Those instructions I downloaded didn't say anything about them.........
    This isn't a job for the faint of heart. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't have the tools and experience of having done it to other cars before. Overall it took me about 10-11 hours total.
  • bigh29bigh29 Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    First, I want to thank all of the people that have contributed to this thread. My 2000 durango (4.7 L) began suffering from the same problem in mid October: p0171, black soot coming out of the exhaust, horrible mileage, and dirty smelling exhaust. I was able to fix the problem on my own using this thread, and a few others I found on the internet.

    Here is a summary of my repairs, and some pictures I took at the end. My fix is very similar to the one that ncdodgeowner did.

    Oxygen sensor wiring and description of the problem:The pre-cat OEM O2 sensor from Mopar has four wires: Heater+ (black), Heater/Chassis Ground (black), Signal+ (blue), and Signal ground (white). These wires comprise two distinct circuits: the heater circuit and the sensor circuit.

    The colors on the truck side are: Heater+ (Orange/Dark Green stripe), Heater Ground (solid black), Signal+ (Light Green/Red stripe), Signal Ground (Black/Blue stripe). Note that the signal+ color is different for other engine sizes (Tan/white for the 5.2L and 5.9L engines).

    The power steering switch shares a common splice with the heater ground on the O2 sensor. This is the source of fluid contamination at the O2 sensor. However, the heater circuit is not impacted. PS fluid is not a great conductor. The heater circuit is low impedance already. PS fluid has too much resistance to prevent the heater from working. My repair strategy relies on this.

    The sensor part of the circuit has a much higher impedance. The sensor works by producing a voltage between 0.1 V (lean) and 0.9 V (rich). However, this voltage isn't very strong, and must be terminated with a high impedance load: such as a digital voltmeter or the high impedance input into the PCM. According to a few articles I found, a load of 10k to 100k ohms would be enough to load down an O2 sensor. Although PS fluid isn't a great conductor, it has a low enough resistance to intefere with this high impedance circuit.

    My fixes: I decided on a course of action that I was capable of implementing, and that was likely to prevent the problem from happening again. I couldn't raise the front of my durango up very high, so I wanted to minimize my work from underneath. I also incorporated what I though were the best ideas from the various solutions. Here is a summary of my strategy :
    Replace power steering switch. Click here to see picture
    Clean up wiring harness with electrical cleaner as best I could.
    Cut and resolder PS switch wires. I decided that I wanted a solder splice blocking a future PS switch failure and fluid leak. So I cut the PS wires and respliced with the heat shrink butt connector. I could have tried this approach at the oxygen sensor, but it was easier to do this up top under the hood.
    Install new Mopar OEM O2 sensor (PN 56028233AA). Cut the two signal wires (blue and white) and run them up to the PCM in a separate wiring harness.
    Leave the two black heater wires on the new sensor intact. Connect to the existing connector on the truck to complete the heater circuit.

    I purchased these materials: 10 ft of black corrugated harness tubing
    18 gauge wire (needed 12 ft total, bought 40 ft). Recommend buying two different colors.
    18 gauge sealed connectors (red). Click here to see picture
    18 gauge, heat shrink butt connectors with solder ring inside. Click here to see picture
    friction tape.
    various gauges of heat shrink tubing.
    heat gun (didn't already have one, this was $59)
    I already owned everything else that I needed.

    Here are the steps I followed to re-route the signal wires:
    Install new O2 sensor.
    Prepared signal harness by cutting 6' of corrugated tubing, and fed through two 18 gauge wires. I marked one wire to identify it. I should have just bought two different colors of wire.
    From below the truck, I snaked my fish tape up to the top, following the transmission dipstick. From above, I taped my new harness to the fish tape, and then pulled the tape back through.
    I cut the blue and white wires on the new O2 sensor close to the connector. I crimped on the red connectors and tried to seal them up with heat shrink tubing.
    Crimped mating connectors to the wires in my harness and connected them.
    Re-connected the gray sensor connector to the mating truck connector. That connector will continue to close the heater circuit.
    Up top, I snaked my harness behing the jumbo wiring harness and attached with a zip tie.
    Sliced open the cloth wrapping around the harness and located two light green/red wires. One is for the oxygen sensor, and the other is for the transmission.
    Picked one wire via coin flip, and shaved a little insulation off it.
    Disconnected the C1 connector on the PCM. The PCM has three big harnesses coming into it. C1 is the rearmost, black, connector.
    Pin 24 on the C1 connector connects to the wire that we want. I measured continuity between pin 24 and the wire that I shaved. As luck would have it, I guessed wrong. So I taped up that wire and repeated with the other light green/red wire.
    Once I had the O2 sensor wire identified, I cut it. I soldered the correct wire from my new harness to the cut wire that heads to the PCM, and sealed it up with heat shrink tubing. The other cut end is left open. I tucked it up into the harness.
    Inside the jumbo harness are several black wires with a light blue stripe. These all connect to signal ground, so I a convenient picked one. I shaved a little insulation off, and soldered the sensor ground wire from my harness to it. Note that you cant cut this wire. Whatever is downstream needs to still be connected. I taped up this 3 way splice with electrical tape.
    I taped up the jumbo harness with friction tape, and secured my new harness.
    Reconnected the C1 connector to the PCM.

    I wish I would have taken some pictures during my repairs. But in reality, nothing went as smoothly as my list makes it appear. I did a number of things wrong. I have attached pics of the final outcome.
    PCM and harness view
    View of splice at O2 sensor connector. Not a great pic.

    PS: If you tap into the wrong light green/red wire, your truck will function. But the shift indicator for the transmission will behave goofy (all gears will illuminate in park and neutral), and your check engine light will come on with P0132 exactly 4 minutes after starting the vehicle. Don't ask me how I know this.
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    I'm getting an error code P0141 which is a heater problem on #2 O2 sensor on bank 1. I'm assuming this is the drivers side, sensor after the catalyst. Am I correct? 2000 SLT 4.7L.
  • I also have a 2004 Dodge Durango that makes a Humming sound after turning the ignition off. The sound seems to come from the exhaust system just in front of the transmission and lasts from 8 to12 seconds. 5.7Lhemi w/164,000 miles. Any ideas ?? Exaust gasket, cat converter, erg system?? Exhaust flow seems strong, no engine lights, runs cool, good fuel mileage, norm eng temp.
  • did you ever get this problem fixed? I have the same problem on my 05 durango. once I changed the battery the cargo door and the tire pressure indicators came on
  • My durango recently started drinking gas, I calculated about 7mpg. I have no idea what could be causing this.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,811
    Holy crap! How does it run?

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  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Is the engine light on? Something is causing it to run rich, quite often an O2 sensor problem.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    If you live in or near DC and have had fuel spitback issues with your car, please email before Monday, February 28, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter. Please include your daytime contact information and the year, make and model of your car.
  • I am trying to replace the neutral safety switch on a 99 Dodge Durango....would anyone know exactly where it is located on the vehicle....Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,811
    which engine?

    2WD or 4WD?

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  • I have a 2000 5.9 hemi Durango and am having a vacuum problem. The check engine light indicates either a speed sensor issue or a vacuum seal issue, but when I accelerate the check engine light blinks and the truck is very sluggish. My gas mileage has plummetted. Anyone have any ideas how I can remedy this using my average joe tools and regular house garage?
  • megan99megan99 Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    :confuse: New and hoping to get help. Searched to see if anyone had a similar problem but haven't found any postings. I own a 2001 Dodge Durango (SLT Plus, 4.7L, V8, 4WD) and never had a big problem with it until just a few months ago when the wipers, interior/exterior lights, autolocks, and horn started going off on their own. Not all at once but like one after the other. Took it to the Dealer and they said it was the latch switch to the Tail Gate (back door) that "the computer thinks it's open and so it's causing all these problems." So they replaced the switch and charged me $515; But the car is still having the same problems so I brought it back and now their saying that it needs two other switches replaced and a new BCM and that it'll cost me $660 on top of the $515 I already paid. I felt ripped off. So I took it to another Dodge Dealer for a 2nd opinon and they said the BCM is dead and needs to be replaced and they'll do everything for $585 (part, labor & tax) and once installed and programmed, they'll retest for other possible issues. Because I didn't know who to believe, I went to a third person, a mechanic who specializes in eletrical issues. He says that all these symptoms lead to one thing....the BCM. That once replaced, all these issues will disappear. I've read in other Dodge forums that my problem really lies in the BCM. So, I'm inclined to believe that this is the real issue. I've also learned that this part is very expensive. The Mechanic said the part alone cost $650, $320 for his labor and diagnostic charge, plus tax. So now I'm between a rock and a hard place b/c, although, the 2nd Dodge Dealer's diagnostic sounds right and is cheaper, who's to say they won't turn around and attempt to rip me off just like the 1st Dealer did. And I can't go with the Mechanic b/c he's too expensive. If anyone has gone through a similar problem, your thoughts and advise will be very much appreciated. Thanks! :confuse:
  • saint6saint6 Posts: 1
    Hello I have a 1999 5.9L mag durango and I'm having an issue. While driving out of town we pulled over after smelling burning oil and seeing smoke from under the car. After the smoke cleared and it cooled down I looked under the durango and I could see tons of oil spray all over... Sooo obviously being out of town I freaked out and was worried we wouldn't make it back. At some point we just decided to finish the trip to the destination and could still smell the oil but never had smoke again and also after the 300+ miles we had to put on the durango to finish the trip had never (and still havent) any oil hit the ground while idle and or parked. I should also add that we never had to add oil. That being said I checked all other fluid levels and took it to a shop to get expert advice. Upon speding an hour and a test drive on the durango the mechanic told me that we were leaking tons of oil and if it wasnt leaving puddles it would be now and told me that his best guess was the rear main seal but without adding dye and a good undercarrage steam clean he coulnd't be sure.... Well to date we have not added oil and have not left puddles, drops, or any oil under the durango but still get a horrid oil smell.. I would like some ideas as to what this may be. One other person looked at it told me that he doubts it's a rms because it would be leaking like crazy and he said it's more likely that the head is leaking from the back of the seal.
  • For everybody that has a 2000 Durango and is having a hard time with the start and idoling, all you need is a Air Charged Temperature Sensor. It cost 25.00 and it is sold at Advanced Auto Parts for sure, Auto Zone doesn't carry it at all. SO STOP SPENDING ALL THAT UNNECESSARY MONEY ON ALL THOSE OTHER PARTS. THIS IS THE PART TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM!!! YAYYYYY!!!!!!
  • i had this problem with my 02 only happened when the headlighs were on though...i pulled the relay fuse and left it out for a day or 2...and it has never happened again. hope i helped...
  • tp11tp11 Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 dodge durango that makes that EXACT noise. WOndering if you ever figured out why it does that. I am also having problems with it idleing rough whenever I go through the car wash or it rains. ANybody know why??
  • 79cj579cj5 Posts: 7
    This is my oldest sons car. As it turned out, he ran it out of gas multiple times and refused to admit it. There was some trash in the fuel lines; but the main problem was air in the lines. I removed the air by depressing the valve on the fuel rail, ( it looks like an air valve on your car tire), it's around your carb/throttle body. I kept it pressed down until I had a steady flow of fuel only, no air gaps. I had to turn my engine over a few times to rebuild the fuel pressure in lines.
    I don't know if this will help you, but it only takes a second to find out if there is air in your lines. Don't purge the line over grass, it will kill that section of your lawn.
  • dmack0007dmack0007 Posts: 1
    I have a 5.2L 2000 Dodge Durango. I tried to drive it yesterday, and it cut out at the stop sign before I left my neighborhood. I can start it; it turns over and starts fine, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas and it decelerates to idle speed, it cuts out. I can't even drive it. There was no check engine light or anything. Where should I start?
  • I am experiencing the same problem when I tow a trailer. I just ordered a new Timbren Bump Stops to replace the stock bump stops. These new ones are longer and have a progressive overload spring inside. Instead of the unloaded bump stops being 4" off the axle these should be about 1/2" to 1" off the axle. When I connect the trailer with the Equil-i-zer hitch the back end goes down about 2 - 2 1/2". Therefore, in theory, the new bump stops should engage the entire time I'm towing. I'm hopeful this is a good fix or I'm going to have to buy a bigger truck! I'll let you know how it works out. Here is the link.
  • wturnswturns Posts: 1
  • Did you end up getting it fixed? I have a 2001 Durango that started doing that 2 months ago. It stopped for a while started again. When the horn went off for no reason I pulled out the fuse. This week it started again, spazzing out, wipers going off, warning bell, flickering lights. When it stopped, it returned to normal, but now the headlights don't turn on (the dash doesn't even dim), the interior lights don't turn on and no power locks. the rear wiper is stuck in it's position and the front wipers only work when turned on their highest setting. Is that similar to what happened with yours? Mechanically everything works great. I was wondering if it was the BCM or just a short in the wiring. Did it cost $980 in the end?
  • robpirogrobpirog Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I have a 99 Durango 5.9L V8. Whenever I've been driving it for a while, it will start hunting/jumping between 3-4 gear. I know I have a misfire on cylinder 3, and have recently replace the ignition coil and throttle position sensor. I have also adjusted the throttle valve cable. It feels like once something gets to a certain temperature, the transmission keeps jumping in and out of overdrive.
    I have experimented actually turning off the overdrive when this happens, and it seems to take care of it (there is still some very very sporatic hunting that goes on). I also experimented with letting cruise control take over the other day, and that seemed to elimintate it all together (that was for about the remaining 12 or so miles remaining on my daily commute. I'm going to try it again for as much of the commute as I can; 32 miles).
    I noticed in some other posts, that some folks had the same situation but it was happening more with cruise control on.
    Does anyone have any thoughts on my particular circumstances? Help!!!
  • toltectoltec Posts: 1
    On my way home i smelled something funny and noticed my car was smoking. I opened up the hood and noticed that the coil pack on cylinder 1 had busted open on the opposite side of the connections. I thought it was oil but looking at it closer it was melted plastic or rubber.

    I went out and purchased another coil pack from the dealership today and installed it. I let the engine run for about 5 minutes and the same thing happened.

    Why is this happening? How do i fix the issue? Any info would be greatly appreciated cause i don't know too much about engine repair.

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