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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    2nd the warped brake rotors. They need to be turned, or replaced.
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    I just had the same problem, except the brake lights on the passenger side and the center brake light were out. I had my independent Honda guy replace the right side brake light sensor and viola it's fixed. You might have a problem with both the sensors on both tail lights not working. First, make sure your brake light bulbs are not completely burnt out.
  • Hi all

    My brakes are shot and need repair badly. When braking, I hear the dreadful sound of metal crunching together and the ABS light is on. When I get my brakes replaced, I'd like it to be free from any resistance and ride smooth. Is there anything specific I should ask my brake mechanic? Will the mechanic check for sticking calipers? Is Just Brakes® a reliable place to go to?

  • hi all

    Will I see and feel any difference if I add a flowmaster muffler and airflow intake in my 93' my Accord and a tune up ? I really want my car to ride smooth and clean.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Sounds like you need a complete overhaul on those brakes, including wheel sensors for the ABS. I'm not a big fan of automotive franchise operations, no. I'd suggest you go to an independent repair shop that specializes in Hondas. The franchise shops tend to over-sell you, and they don't always use quality parts, either. They'll always try to fix all your problems within their specialty. If the car doesn't run right, it's the brakes. If there's a hole in the muffler, it's the brakes. If rain leaks in, it's the brakes. Their focus is too narrow (of course I'm exaggerating).

    I don't know what you have in mind for intake modifications. If you mean just dropping in a K&N filter and adding a flowmaster---no, that won't do you any good at all. If you mean adding a Cold Air Intake system, then yes, you would get better throttle response and a few more HP and the Flowmaster, while not giving much if any more power, would at least sound nice.

    You have to keep in mind that from the front of your air filter to the tip of your exhaust is ONE BIG TUBE. If you increase the intake and the exhaust and do nothing in the middle (the engine), then your results are going to be very limited in ratio to the money you spend.

    All it takes is money. How fast do you want to go?

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  • Thanks Mr shiftright

    I dont want to go to fast but I'd like a quick pick up a little speed. When replacing the air filter for a cold air intake, should I think of replacing exhaust tubing and muffler? One mechanic showed me that the muffler is filled with loose dubris and crap in it.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Sure a free-flow cat-back exhaust would be okay.

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  • Hello everyone,
    When using LED light bulbs on my turn signals, do you need some kind of resistor for the turn signals to work properly? The turn signal lights on my instrument panel goes on and stays on without blinking and the flasher has a very loud buzzing sound.
    I use the LED bulbs on my brake and back up lights without any problems. All your wisdom and help will be greatly appreciated by me.
    I hope someone knows how to remedy this situation.

  • If your car uses an older type of flasher unit that requires the load of an incandescent bulb, then yes, it needs an additional load. The other option would be to update the flasher unit.

    Here is a web page that talks about the problem your having.

  • Can I fit a 92/93 transmission into a 1991?
    Will it work? My concern is the "SPORTS MODE"
    stuff and the TCM.
  • mrbill1957,

    Thank you very much for your input. I had to remove the LED bulbs for my turn signals and replace it with my old incandescent bulbs. Now it works..
    I just received the resistors that I had ordered so here I go again. Try and try again..
    Thanks again for the information you posted..
  • my accord engine light comes on after i drive it about 40 to 50 miles. when it comes on the engine jumps a little. after you part it the light goes out then you have to drive it again 40 to 50 miles for it to come back on. the car runs great other than the little jump when it comes on . i have replaced the o2 senser,didn;t help. do you think it could be the cat. converter. any help would be nice.

    thank you john
  • Code 43 is the fuel supply system
  • I have a 90 accord. Right now Im having an issue with the thermostat not wanting to open up when the car reaches running temperature according to the gauge. I have replaced all the sensors and relays underneath the hood already because I originally thought my fans were not working because of them. It turns out that the thermoswitch isnt getting hot enough to turn the fans on. The thermostat is supposed to open up before the fans come on which is why I have yet to see the fans come on automatically. I have checked the entier system for clogs. Flushed the system, replaced the thermostat twice, and I bleed the system each time I refill it. The system is building up pressure but for some reason the thermostat just wont open up. I have yet to find an answer searching around online so i decided to ask on here. I did find the website that was posted on here numerous times for the cooling system helpful in the beginning, but now it is of no use to me because I have tried all it had suggested. I may have done something wrong. who knows. Well sorry for going on for so long about my problem. I just have been trying to get some kind of idea what to do from here and need the help. I would also be glad to answer any questions anyone has about their accord to. I have working on them for quite sometime....well mine rather. I am usually able to troubleshoot well enough to find the problem but this time I am stumped lol.

    If you need anymore info on what I have or have not checked or replaced just ask.

    Thanks in advance.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    In some cars, it is possible to install a thermostat backwards.

    Just a suggestion

  • It is in the proper direction. thanks for the suggestion though
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    What about testing one of the thermostats in hot water? They will open up before the water boils, usually are set for 185 Deg.F.

    Did you try taking the thermostat out and run the car without it?

  • gojacketsgojackets Posts: 23
    Similar problem with a '93. My fan never comes on. The thermostat is apparently opening (or my engine would have already gone kaboom). I am thinking that perhaps there's a bad ground to the body (which could explain the fan not coming on). You might just put a lower temp thermostat in and see if that sorts things out. An alternative (not cheap) is to get one of the thermoswitches that are sold on the aftermarket which open up at lower temps.
  • I haven't bothered testing the thermostat in water. I already have put a few different new ones in. They have warranties and I took them back originally thinking they were bad. But since I have had 3 different ones in there and I'm still getting the same problem I'm sure its probably not the case. I did run the system with the thermostat out. They system ran cooler than normal for a little bit. I tried to take the cap off the radiator to see if the water was flowing and coolant was pushed out the cap before i could even take the cap all the way off. I did relieve all the air pressure in the system so the water did flow out because of air pressure.

    I'm starting to wonder if my water pump is working. If the thermostat is opening, and theres no water pump pushing the cold water in the motor then it will run hot. The fans would logically come on if the motor were hot, but they will not come on if the water at the thermoswitch is not hot. And since the water is not flowing then the cold water is sitting right where the thermoswitch is, keeping the switch from knowing that the engine is overheating.

    Thats what I believe may be wrong. Is there any really good test that I can do to check the water pump? All the manuals say is there would be a leak, or a howling noise, neither of which I am getting. I don't want to do that kind of work if I do not have to so it would be nice to know I'm not wasting my time before I do it.
  • One way to test your fan system would be to eliminate the thermoswitch from the equation completely like I did. I took a jumper wire and put it on the thermoswitch so it would make a connection just like a properly working thermoswitch would make a connection for the circuit to power the fans. When that was done, my fans came on. And since the thermoswitch is in good working order it led me to believe the coolant that is near it was not getting hot enough.

    The thermostat opens fully at around 180 degrees, and the fans come on when the temperature gets, about 10 degrees or so hotter. The cooling system is supposed to use the circulation of water to keep the engine cool, and the fans are to only come on if they system alone cannot do the job. I have already considered getting a lower temperature thermostat and thermoswitch but I do not feel comfortable replacing those parts with ones of a lower setting just because they may solve the problem I am having, for now. If there is a problem in the system I want to find it and use the parts that are rated for the temperature that the car was designed for originally. Plus, if I were to just get a lower temperature thermoswitch and the fans did cut on, then I would be over working my fans because I know the coolant isn't flowing properly. The gauge would show me a lower temperature because of the fans running, but the hot water in the motor will eventually start to boil off.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    Are you getting any hot air when you turn on the heater? If you are, then the pump is moving coolant since the heater core gets fed from circulating coolant.

    If I recall correctly, the pump I replaced on my 88 Accord had a stamped steel impeller. I guess they could fail (break off) or could be eaten away from old corrosive coolant.

    Is the coolant in the radiator somewhat clear, or do you see alot of bubbles? Bubbles could be a sign of a failing head gasket, which can also give overheating problems.

  • 94shadow94shadow Posts: 31
    Hello to everyone for your past help. Need help again. When I start my engine the check engine light does not come on. It only comes on after about 30 minutes of driving.
    I checked the trouble code and came up with code 12. According to the repair manual it is the EGR valve. I replaced the EGR valve twice. The first valve was a used valve but, the second EGR valve was a refurbished valve. It did not help. Is there something else that is connected to the EGR valve that would make the check engine light come on?
    Anyone one's help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks to mrbill and elroy for your past help.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Check this out and see if it applies to you. You may need a port cleaning:
  • Well I am getting heat. So if that gives a sign that the pump is working then that makes me even more confused. lol I thought it may have been the pump because I never see any water flowing through the radiator like I have in the past. Idk though, maybe it is and I am just not seeing it. My fluid comes out perfect. Nothing seems to be mixing, and so far I have seen no bubbles. I wont rule out the possibility of a head gasket that is messing up, just yet. My oil on the other hand is the only fluid that is a bit odd. It has a weird smell to it. It smells sort of like exhaust fumes...and the coolant has the same type of smell but I see no sign of them mixing. So maybe it could be my head gasket....
  • 94shadow94shadow Posts: 31
    Thanks a lot Corkscrew.
    I'll try the repairs from the pictures.
    The pictures are really detailed.
    Thanks again.

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    I've noticed oil smelling like exhaust before, it's probably just contamination from blow by. Can't say I ever noticed any strange smells in coolant.

    If you got an air compressor, you can always do a pressure test in each cylinder, and watch for bubbles in the radiator. You can pick up fittings for the spark plug holes at most auto part shops. I made fittings for my air compressor by knocking out the ceramic from old spark plugs, and brazing air fittings into them.

  • Alright I'll give that a shot. How much psi. would you suggest I put to the cylinders?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    The pressures developed in a running engine are alot higher then your average air compressor can provide, so 125-150 psi shouldn't be a problem.

    Don't forget, you will need to turn the engine over to the point where the valves are closed for the cylinder.

  • 94shadow94shadow Posts: 31
    Does the brake lights also need resistors or just the turn signal lights. I couldn't locate a flasher for my turn signals but i'm still looking for one.
    If anyone has a heavy duty flasher for a 92 Honda accord LX please e-mail me.
  • bestpibestpi Posts: 5
    i have a 90 honda accord that has the 2.2L V4 and when i start it up i get a surging in the engine after about a minute any help there?
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