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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • dumbheredumbhere Posts: 4
    Got the same problem with my 90,sometimes if i dont turn key on and sit there and then start it ,clatter under dash,sport lite on and takes off in 4th.when i shift 1st to drive it feels like 1st to OD.! had to take backup fuse out also,and then its fine again.....till the next spasm......maybe solenoids on tranny? ....... :confuse:
  • Hi guys,
    I am new to this forum and I have searched for this particular question also.
    I have Honda Accord '93 10th anniversary special and it is time to replace the muffler. I took it to the mechanic and he said I need to change the muffler and pipe and gave me a quote. I am trying to buy it online to save some money but I do not know what kind of muffler and pipe to search for. I googled it and it gave me 3 different options and I am not sure what kind to order. I mean I dont know the part name or the number or something of that sort. I dont know anything about cars so pardon me. Can someone please tell me what kind of part should I search so that it will fit my car. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask me 'cause maybe I might have not given out full information.

    Thank you guys in advance.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The stock muffler comes with the pipe and flange that you can bolt to the existing exhaust. If you are not buying a honda factory muffler, you will probably need a muffler shop to cut and weld the aftermarket exhaust pipe and muffler for you. I would get the Honda muffler, and change it myself.
  • Thank you elroy5 for the reply.
    If I buy the honda muffler, what should I put as the search words, i mean if I put it as "honda muffler 10th anniversary edition 1993", it gives me different options i.e. the pictures that the websites show are different so how do I know if it is the right one. Is there a special name for it. I have chiltons book but it doesn't say what kind i need it.

    Thanks again.
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    I've been getting the Code 43 light issue for a while now. I want to have the fuel system checked out. Does those fuel injector cleaning agents sold at auto part stores really work or is it all hype? What should I ask for when getting the fuel system checked or cleaned out? Also I smell gas when starting up in the mornings. Does this mean gas leakage?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    My suggestion would be to look up the parts you need at one of the 2 bigger muffler manufacturers. or

    Both will have online catalogs showing the parts you need. Factory type welded exhaust systems are common, you should find them on their web sites. Look for their online catalogs or e-catalogs (whatever they call it) look under Honda, Accord, 1993. Only thing after that is the listings may ask things like Japan/USA/Canada, sedan/station wagon, and if your current muffler has 2 pipes coming out the back or 1. The sticker in the drivers door jam will tell you where the car was made.

    Assuming your car came with a 2.2L 4 cyl engine, I don't think that 10th anniversary edition will make any difference when ordering replacement parts. Once you find the page with the diagram, print it out and bring it to your local parts store, or order them online. Don't forget to order any gaskets shown.

    Below is the car options I copied from Maremont, I would assume the 3rd listing down is what you may have, 1993, passenger car, USA, Dual outlet pipes.

    1990-1993 836 1 Exhaust System 1990-1993 DX & LX Passenger Car All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. 1990-1993 EX Passenger Car All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. (Canada Only)

    1991-1993 835 1 Exhaust System 1991-1993 LX Station Wagon All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. USA Production Code 1 (1)

    1992-1993 832 1 Exhaust System 1992-1993 EX & SE Passenger Car All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. USA Production Code 1 Dual Outlet (US Only

    1992-1993 5761 1 Exhaust System 1992-1993 EX-R Passenger Car All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. (Canada Only)

    1993 830 1 Exhaust System 1993 EX-R, EX & SE 4 Door Sedan All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. Japan Production Code J Dual Outlet

    1991-1993 834 1 Exhaust System 1991-1993 EX Station Wagon All 4 Cyl. (2.2 L) Eng. USA Production Code 1 (1)

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You can get one from Majestic Honda. Enter your car year, and model. They have the anniversary edition for $116 + shipping. Here's the link.

    PS: If you print out the item price sheet, your local dealer might match the Majestic price. That way you don't pay for shipping. Good luck
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,

    Is the TCM and ECM in the same place? Are they the same unit?

  • Two different units. Both are located on the passenger side floor below the dash.
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Are they side by side each other? Looks like I need to replace them both because my D4 light keeps blinking, causing my car to down shift. Cybercool
  • kkay2kkay2 Posts: 7
    Hi all,
    I'm a newbee... just acquired a 90 accord LX from a relative. They replaced the timing belt, Master Cylinder, hoses and fuel pump recently. It has 79,000 miles, (but probably more like 150,000 because the speedometer & odometer do not work). The engine light is on and the "S" light blinks continuously. It has mainly been sitting idle for the last 2 years in hot weather; prior to that it was a tow-car (in tow behind a motorhome). I just drove about 500 miles on a trip to test it out, and it runs pretty good although the steering wheel starts vibrating at about 60 mph.
    Does anyone have advice about where I should start with trying to fix the speedometer, odometer, engine light & "S" light? Perhaps a front end alignment would smooth out the shimmering at 60? any ideas? (don't have a lot of money)
    Love to hear from anyone! Thanks. Karen
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Read through this link. It should give you some idea what the problem is. Since the car has been sitting for 2 years, the tires are probably the cause of the shimmy (flat spotted or out of balance).
    Good luck
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all
    Sorry if this repeated question. My Honda 93 Accord EX seems to have the code 43 (engine light) which points to the ECU or fuel supply system. My car has a rough ride and jerks with D4 light blinking. This link is helpful but what else can I do to have a smooth ride again? Full Tune up? What does a fuel supply system fix entail? Thanks

  • goodesgoodes Posts: 1
    my well maintained car has started to completely stop in mid drive. once doing 45mph and just recently doing 60mph. no brakes, power steering or gas.
    the service station has had it for three weeks and can't figure it out. the mechanic drove it for 300 miles with no problems for him. Please help
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    Well you probably need to get a better Mechanic, one who specializes in only Honda's or Acura cars. Go to the Cartalk website and select a good independent Honda mechanic from the mechanix file. These are mechanics selected by Honda car owners from all over the country. Good Luck.
  • kkay2kkay2 Posts: 7
    thank you elroy5- that is a good link. Full of lots of info. I just had one more question....
    Do you think it's normal for the accord to continue to sound like it's running after it's been turned off? It sounds like a fan or something keeps running for 3-4 minutes. I'm really hoping this is a normal phenomenon. Do you know?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The cooling fan can continue to run for a few minutes after the engine is shut off. This is normal. Reminds me of when we first bought our 92 Accord. The wife calls me from Mom-in-laws, and says "I turned the key off, but the car is still running" in a panic voice. It was funny to both of us, after she knew what it really was. Make sure the fan eventually turns off (give it 10 mins.). If it doesn't, the fan timer may be on the fritz. The link I gave you also mentions the fan timer. Happy Hondaing :)
  • Hello to all,I got a 90 Accord EX coupe with automatic seatbelts that dont retract when the ignition key is turned on and door is closed.I have pulled away the plug on the back interior panel to turn the motor to retract it manually but if i close the door and re-open it the seatbelt will go forward again.This has got me really irratated cause when i drive i only got a lap belt not to mention the constant beeping from the seatbelt warning control on the passengers side floor.I have disconnected the warning control just recently so that seatbelts just stay in the back posistion and can be clicked in before driving and no more beeping noise.Does anyone no what could be the cause of the problem?is it a switch?bad ground?contol unit?or could this be something Honda would warranty at no cost even though the car is 20+years old?.any help greatly appreciated.Thanks
  • The seat belt on my '93 Accord stopped retracting last year. I brought it to my local Honda dealer and they fixed it for free. From what I understand, honda guarabtees their seatbelts on all cars, no matter how old, no matter who the original owner was. The only thing they won't guarantee is if the damage happened as a result of mistreatment. I would urge you to ask your local authorized Honda repair shop (not your local Honda specialist, but your local dealership repair shop) whether the seat belt problem can be fixed under warranty.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hondas from the 80s and 90s are known for doing this, and it is considered normal. Our '93 Accord used to, and my '96 still does. Typically its after longer drives (when the engine is nice and hot, although not running hot). Even my granddad's '87 Civic wagon used to do this after a sizeable drive.

    I know elroy told ya, but since you're relatively new here I thought a second opinion might make you feel a little bit better. :)

    Best regards,


    P.S. - Elroy is really knowledgable, and won't ever lead you wrong knowingly!

    Welcome to Edmunds!
  • I will give that a try and let you know the outcome.Thanks for the reply :)
  • moonzemoonze Posts: 3
    I need to replace my water pump in my 90 Accord. i have gotten to the point where all i need now is to remove 1 last 10mm bolt, and it is already half way off. Here is the problem, the Tension adjuster assembly is slightly in the way so i cannot back the bolt all the way out. I have tried to take off the adjuster nut, but that sucker wont budge. How can this be done?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Try this PB Blaster product (Wal Mart and other stores)

    You can sometimes tease a bolt loose by first TIGHTENING it just a little...a very little...then loosening it (presuming you have the PB Blaster on hand to keep lubricating it).

    Some people suggest a BREAKER BAR but you know what? That's risky...once you hear the sickening SNAP! your day is ruined...maybe a few days....

    Another technique is to apply heat to the adjuster but a cold spray (like the 'electrical freeze' they sell at Radio Shack) to the bolt itself. This way you get an expansion on the adjuster side and a contraction on the bolt side.

    The key here is not rush, get frustrated, etc. If you find yourself getting nervous or mad, STOP and take a break.

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  • moonzemoonze Posts: 3
    Thanx for the response Mr_Shift. I have tried the tightening then back off and try to loosen it, but it didnt work. Also thought of the breaker bar, but my better judgment got the better of me, as i do not want to hear that dreadful SNAP! I will pick some of that PB up tomorrow, along with that electrical freeze you talked about. Is this normal for this nut to be so tight? after all it is an accorn type nut.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Well sure on an older car.

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  • geez123geez123 Posts: 4
    This morning I was driving my baby 1991 Accord DX Sedan and when I was opening my garage door, I noticed smoke coming out from under the hood. I looked at the temp gauge and it was pointing H (hot). So I move the car for about 25 feet to park the car out of the traffic way. Within minutes, I see liquid coming out from the car at the bottom. What could cause the car to overheat?

    Do you think I ruined the engine for driving 25 feet to park the car? Think one of the hoses broke loose and coolant leaked out?

    How much of a repaid do you think I am looking at?

    All possible solutions are welcomed. This is my 1st car and it has been very loyal to me since I bought it in 1991. It has 209K miles and I was hoping to make to 300K.

    Thanks! :confuse: :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    It depends how long it was pegged on hot.

    Best thing you can do is find the leak, fix that, and then drive the car to see what's what. If it overheats again, you should test for various problems, like bad head gasket, or hopefully stuck thermostat or non-functioning cooling fan.

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  • moonzemoonze Posts: 3
    Hey Mr_Shift i wanna thank you for your advice on using the freeze stuff. Bought some this morning, along with a box wrench set, (14mm for that nut) and applied the stuff to it. Tapped it with a hammer ever so lightly, and sprayed it again. One more tap for good luck and then placed the box wrench on it. That nut didnt know what hit it, but next thing you know, it came loose and my water pump is now free. Thanks again for the great advice.
  • geez123geez123 Posts: 4
    It wasn't overheated probably not more than 5 minutes. I'm waiting for the hood the cool down before opening the hood. I will let you know what I see when I open the hood. I try to keep safety first. :)

    If it was a bad head gasket, isn't that a big repair?
    I'm hoping it was a hose that collapsed.

    Trying to figure out what would be my limit? Repair it or not? Everything else in the car except radio works. I'm deaf so conked out radio makes no difference for me.

    This car is my first car and I have sentimental value for this car.

    Thanks! I will post back tomorrow.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Since you know the car's history, a head gasket repair might be worth it--presuming the body is decent, tires okay, etc.

    You might have just busted a hose or something. No reason to be alarmed at this point.

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