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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Illuminated gauge needles didn't appear until 1998. You shouldn't have a problem seeing them since they are lighted from above/front.
  • w9qw9q Posts: 2
    thegraduate, thanks! So the needles are supposed to be illuminated from above/front of the instrument panel, but they are not. Which means that I'll probably have to find and replace the above/front bulbs, right?

    Do I have to remove console, radio, then instrumental panel, then disassemble the instrumental panel to access the lamps, or is there a short cut?
    Thanks a lot.
  • There are two bulbs illuminating (or supposed to be illuminating) your needles. Some of them have these gel cap things, I think to reduce the amount of light reflected at you. I just went through this myself. Yes you have to remove the whole instrument panel/radio trim piece to access the instrument cluster. There are some cleverly hidden screws to undo, so don't force it out until you know you got them all. It would also help if you remove the cover on the steering column. Basically there are screws in all the vents on the trim piece, and behind all the switches, and you will have to remove the center console cover to get the radio out. I would check all the bulbs because when I changed one burned out one, then I haggled the stuff back together, ant three more had burned out. also, if you take off the clear cover, make sure you don't bump the gas gauge. It will stay at the level you bumped it at. There are no shortcuts that I know of. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I think oldschool90 can take you from here. I've never replaced them myself (I had one of four burn out in my '96 and paid through the nose to get it replaced). Lots of labor involved.
  • Hi all,
    I went to my mechanic and mentioned my TCM is acting up with the blinky D4 light.
    He tells me it can only be two things, tranny or silenoids. He gave me a $69 quote to diagnose the silenoids. what to do?
  • Unless your mechanic actually pulled the codes from the computer, he is wrong and you need a new mechanic.

    Your TCM is indicating a fault somewhere which you can determine by jumping the diagnostic connection with a paper clip. Depending on the number of flashes, you can (perhaps) diagnose the problem. Note - it is seldom the transmission itself.
  • Hey Gojackets,

    Thanks for your input. If I'm not mistaken, the code 14 came up on my Accord. My Honda book says code is the IAC valve. Can you verify this? Is this a costly thing to check and fix? Thanks

  • Sounds like you might be reading the wrong code in the book. If your looking at the D4 or S light, your probably looking at the engine trouble codes in the book. The IAC valve controls some of the airflow to the engine according to it's temperature. It's a $250 (give or take a few) part to replace new. :lemon:
  • Is the car fixed?
  • hi

    nope, car is not fixed yet. I've noticed in cooler weather, the D4 light is not blinking, so it's sort of fixed temporarily.
  • tried starting the car this morning..won't start. Blinking D4 light i think is the problem. Ive been fine driving with it when the light just wouldn't show when it was in D4 gear..All the other gears light up just not that one. But now i believe its the reason i can't start the car..Need help
  • tried starting the car this morning..won't start. Blinking D4 light i think is the problem. Ive been fine driving with it when the light just wouldn't show when it was in D4 gear..All the other gears light up just not that one. But now i believe its the reason i can't start the car..Need help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    Blinking D4 light is a transmission fault code. You'll have to short out the diagnostic connector and read the codes to find out more.

    more info HERE

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  • i have a 1992 honda accord ...The dash board light is not coming on... the horn isnt working and lastly the heat in the front doesnt work but somethings it comes on and goes off, but that of the back still works,, what can i do to resolve this problem
  • ...anyone have any experience replacing driver's side power window/regulator assy?....made the mistake of using during sub-zero temps and my window is stuck halfway, while motor continued and stopped...suspect gear shear or fried switch?...have removed door panel and all 10mm bolts---how is assy removed?...please help
  • Just went through this myself quite recently. After removing the door panel and the bolts, remove it through the large access hole on the bottom left of the door. The track must be at its narrowest position (about half way down). It may take a bit of wiggling, but it should come out relatively easy. Make sure you take off the window bolts and the window guide, then take out the window. Make sure you unplug the regulator plug too. :lemon:
  • cant figure out what the problem is. Any likely components i should check or replace?
  • Check the Neutral Safety Switch and the Brake Light Switch (behind the brake pedal).

    It seems like a safety feature is not allowing the car to start. But since you have an could also be the Transmission Control Unit (common problem).

    Check all these components before throwing money into the car.
  • thank you for you help ..i'll give it a try
  • Hi all,
    I have a question about the temperature gauge sending unit wire.
    Can you cut the wire and solder it back together? Will the gauge work after you solder it together. I need to lenghten the wire to reach the fitting to connect my gauge.
    I have a 92 Honda Accord LX with a 2.2L, F22A engine.
    Hope to hear from anyone.

    Thanks :surprise: :surprise:
  • Yes. It will work it you properly solder it back. Make sure the connection is secure and will not short.
  • Hi all!
    Need some help. Changed the head gasket on our 1990 Honda Accord EX (and let me tell you, what a pain in the a**) Got it put back together, and now it wont start. I need some advice on what to do next. Also, the ECU is setting a trouble code for the throttle position angle sensor, and we cant figure out how to test it properly, so any advice will be welcome. We've got a multimeter, but dont know what setting to put it on (I know its the ohm sign, just dont know what number to put it on) and any readings we get are backwards to what the book says. So any advice will be appreciated. Thanks! :lemon:
  • Make sure all your grounds are clean and tightly connected. attention to the the ground cable going to the thermostat housing.

    Does the engine turn over strongly but fails to fire up?
  • Where is the ground for the thermostat? Yes it cranks pretty strong, and when I tried to start it the first time, it almost started, but then it decided not too. I haven't been able to get the same response since. :lemon:
  • Not sure what your multimeter has for settings but,

    Ω setting reads 0-999 ohms resistance, touching the leads together should display near 0

    KΩ setting reads 1000-999,999 ohms resistance
    MΩ settings reads 1,000,000 ohms and up

    The most important thing when making resistance measurements, it's done on UNPOWERERED CURCUITS ONLY!!. You can fry a meter making resistance measurements on powered circuits.

    DCV for voltages typically tested on autos, or other things that run on batteries
    ACV for voltages typically found in your home outlets

    uA, mA, A settings are for reading current draw. Your meter will have one for DC volts and another for AC volts. When reading uA, mA, or A, you need to move the lead from the "COM" jack to the "A" jack on the meter.

    If you have an auto ranging meter, you won't have as many settings, just Ω, DCV, ACV, and A, the meter changes to the right range automatically. If it is an auto ranging meter, the display should also show what range it's measuring in, Ω, KΩ, MΩ, or uA, mA, A.

    BTW, are you sure you got the timing right on the belt?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    The Throttle Angle Sensor, connected to the side of the throttle body, is a linear potentiometer. It is connected to the throttle shaft. As the throttle angle changes, the throttle angle sensor varies the voltage signal to the ECU. The ECU uses this voltage signal along with the MAP Sensor voltage signal to determine engine load. The typical output voltage at idle is approx. 0-0.5 volts and at wide open throttle approx. 4.5 volts.

    You don't measure resistance on this particular TPS. You measure voltage from the right and left terminals of the TPS.

    And yeah, you'd better check your timing marks (groan). :(

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  • So the car won't run even if its one tooth off of where the mark is? How do I tension it without losing the marks? :lemon:
  • Look at the thermostat housing...........there is a 10mm bolt with a braided wire attached.

    Since you said you did your head gasket.............make sure you didn't put the distributor 180 degree off. That's the only thing you could've disturbed. And do check the timing marks.

    Report back with your findings. I always like to start with the simple things first.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,375
    Probably won't run, or would run badly. Well you said you had the manual, so that should tell you everything about setting timing marks (engine timing I mean, not ignition timing).

    You might go over all your tune-up stuff as well.

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  • sib1sib1 Posts: 5
    what would make 95 accord start to rave very high
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