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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • sounds like you may have an intake gasket on the manifold that may be leaking.. or some other type of vacuum leak.... based on the fact that the duct tape helped improve the problem...
  • I am looking at the response you have been getting and they are more costly than anything else, before you messes with you TCU please try the elimination process there are two solenoids one is the "shift solenoid" the other is the "lockup solenoid"
    the are part of the shifting process and if they are not communicating with the computer then the computer goes into safe mode and the car starts off in fourth gear instead of first gear, those solenoids’ are on the front of the transmission both have two bottle looking heads, it could also caused from faulty speed sensors which is on the front right side of the transmission and the other is on the back side just follow all the wires that is on the transmission both speed sensors are easy assessable when you take off the front RH wheel and remove the plastic guard, but before you do all this the D4 light flashing or stays on means there is a code set in the computer, to pull the code from the computer there is a blue plug behind the passenger kick panel (that plastic cover at the corner of the door bellow the glove box you need a small piece of wire to bridge the terminals, then switch on the key so the light in the instrument cluster comes on (do not start the car) watch the D4 light how many times it flashes long stroke means ten short stroke means one ( example: two long stroke and three short stroke means code 23) depends on how it flashes that is your code, after retrieving the code you can search online for Honda trouble codes were you will find the answer or if you have a service manual example: Hanes, Chilton and others) hope this helps. :)
  • Hi. I have a 1990 Honda accord ex. When I turn on my headlights, the dash lights & my running lights take awhile to turn on--sometimes 20 minutes. I've narrowed the problem down to a bad fuse, but I'm not sure where the fuses are, nor how to tell which one is for the lights. Any suggestions?
  • If it was a bad fuse, they would not come on at all - ever.

    Sounds more like a headlight relay

    If you want to check the fuses, there are two boxes on the '90 - one is under the hood next to the firewall on the passenger side. The box is labeled on the top for the fuse locations. The other box would be next to the driver's left leg behind the panel.
  • The latch that releases and enables me to adjust the angle of my steering wheel on my 1991 Honda Accord EX has become frozen. I don't want to force it or I might damage it. Is there an easy way to release the latch? Is the steering system otherwise safe although frozen in this manner?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    You might try to squirt some WD-40 in there. I've never seen one of these break---they are fairly sturdy, so unless you are an extremely strong person, I don't think a pair of human hands could bust one of these very easily. Sure, if you used a ten-foot pry par, yeah, but I think it's safe to put pressure on it.

    Work safely.

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  • I was driving down the highway and the car went completely dead, no lights, nothing. What could be the problem? Incidently, when I push the brake pedal, the dash lights would dim, this was before it died this morning.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    Hmmm....I wonder if your alternator had died and you were running for the last day on battery power? You might try charging the battery, tightening up the battery cables and see if it starts. If so, then I'd check the charging circuit.

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  • I am looking for help on a few issues I am having with my 1990 Honda Accord.

    Recently I noticed that my Honda wouldn't let me take the key out of the ignition and thought it was the break switch which had broke off...this has sense been repaired. So now I still have some issues with it getting stuck..but if I wiggle it some it will eventually click into Park and let me take key out.

    Also the car seems to be shifting hard and the check engine light comes on at about 50 to 60 will then go out once the car is shut off and doesn't come back on until around 60 mph the S light came on at the same time and was flashing. I replaced the TCU about 5 years ago....but when it went bad I couldn't get it to go into gear at all....the RPM's would rev up and I would be going down the road and it would change to a low gear...I haven't had those issues so far. When I shut the car off the S light didn't come back on again with the engine light?

    I attempted to find the blue connector thing under the passenger side so that I could find out what the check engine code was but was not successful in find it.

    While looking for that I noticed there is a wet floorboard on the passenger side found another issue....the windows have been fogging up more on the inside lately but the heat is still working. Would a leaking heater core be the issue and would that cause me issues with the TCU possibly?

    Trying to figure out how much more money I should put in this old car….I have already did a good bit of front end work and it still needs tires balanced and struts…

    Thanks for any info you can give on these issues!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    I sent you an e-mail with a photo of the data link connection so that you can find it.

    Visiting Host

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  • Thanks...I finally found it! The service code I am getting is 43...would that cause issues with the computers? I believe it is fuel system issues? If not what do I need to do to correct that? So you think the computers need to be replaced...because I am having some shifting issues? Would the S light come on due to code 43 you think? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    I wasn't the one who suggested replacing the ECU, although this could be a possibility. You might try going to the underhood fuse/relay box, and disconnect the BACK UP fuse for 10 seconds, to reset the ECU.

    I'm going to e-mail you a diagnostic flow chart for Code 43, to show you all the things you have to check. It might be a bit hard to read, so you'll have to blow it up on your computer screen.

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  • Thanks...yes I am having trouble reading it..but need to print it off too look at it better. The S light hasnt' come on anymore...just the check engine light every time I get to around 60ish MPH......then it almost feels like the car is going in and out of gear or something..the RPM's go up to around 3 and stick there.....just seems like the power is forced or something....and then it will almost go up and down the engine sound....just feels weird...but not sure what it could be. I also have a whole in my muffler do you think that would cause the 43 code? Thanks for your help!
  • rita49rita49 Posts: 2
    i have the same problem my 1990 honda accord dosint want to start, ive replaced the distrubeter but thats not the problem and my car dosint want to read the codes what should i do
  • worldecmworldecm Posts: 2
    edited January 2011
    My experience has been that the computers for the engine and transmission start to fail at about the same time. Usually around 100k and the reason why is mostly parts on the circuit boards have a lifetime that is around the same as 100k miles on the odometer... Give or take... Id consider the ecm and tcm at around 100k. If you need to get a mechanic to test the computers with a scanner and see what it says...
  • rita49rita49 Posts: 2
    so where would i go to get a ecm for my car, is the ecm is that what they call the brain
  • Hello every one,
    I have Honda Accord 1993 automatic with 200k; it has idle surging problem when the car is getting hot, after about 20minuts it becomes normal, the temperature gauge is showing engine is very hot but the engine is not hot. I went to Honda dealer they charged me $1600 replaced idle control valve and to make extra coolant system diagnose , but did not stop and suggested me to change the cylinder gasket. Iam thinking is it worth of spending money on it asking for $1100!

    Now I have another problem is the transmission, it takes very hard to change gear from second to third and forth, seems to be it takes more time than the normal to change the gear. I have added one qt fluid but no change. But car runs very good, never stopped on me.

    Could you please suggest me what could be wrong in my car! Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    Well the dealer could easily perform a cooling system pressure test to determine if the head gasket is bad---you don't have to "guess" about a head gasket.

    I presume you made a type and you meant that you were charged $160, not $1600 for an AIC valve?

    Checking the cooling system was a good idea, since air blockage could cause false readings on the temp. gauge.

    It's possible that the dealer can't deal with such an old car. Perhaps you need to take it to an independent japanese car repair shop and get a second opinion. These independent shops are used to working on older models---the dealer is not and probably his mechanics were 10 years old when these cars were built.

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  • Thank you sir, they charged me $1546, for diagnose the cooling system itself $240, replaced the fan sensor switch, the thermostat and the idle control valve including labor and tax. Yes, it seems I made a big mistake going to dealer with the old car.
    I was not satisfied and amazed that after spending $1600 they told me I need the head gasket replacement and the transmission; it is more than I bought the car.
    The transmission, it is just taking extra time to change the gear from second to third or fourth according to the speed.
  • I have a 1993 honda accord ex, I've been having some trouble with my car while driving it, when I hit the gas it goes smoothly but out of nowhere it seems to loose power so I release the gas pedal and about 10 seconds later I hit again and car goes again, so I was told by a mechanic that it was the distributor I changed it but it seems to do the same thing. In the freeway it does the same thing but the check engine light goes on and the problem seems to stop.....can someone help me figure out whats going on with my car?
  • I have a 92 accord that does the same thing. What codes are you getting? I get a 1 (O2 Sensor) and 43(Fuel Delivery). I have replaced the O2 sensor, still have same problem. I would love to narrow down possible items to check before replacing good parts for nothing. I would appreciate any input on this, this is my daughters car and I want to get the problem corrected.
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    Here's what you need to do ASAP. Find an Independent Honda mechanic who works only on Honda's. The stealerships are a big ripoff. Not sure where you are located, but I've found a couple of very good Independent Honda mechanics in my area using

  • I wanna know is what engines are compatible with my car. i have honda accord ex 1990 5 speed and i was looking at a f22b sohc for 94-95 will this work?
  • I would contact the Attorney General's office or the Consumer Affairs office for your state. They may have specific laws in place that criminalize fraudulent auto repair practices. They may also have investigators to look into your complaint. It sounds like you really were defrauded. Crooked mechanics target people they think are naive about cars, namely little old ladies, women in general, people from foreign countries, younger adults, and others who appear not to have speciific knowledge of cars or who are operating at a disadvantage for some reason. I would call the AG office and/or the
    Consumer Affairs office in your state.
  • i have a 1990 honda accord it runs fine when its running but sometimes with i try to crank it. it will not crank it seams like it is not getting any gas i have changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump the weard part is that if i wait for like an hour it will crank fine. so if any one knows or has any ideas i could realy use some help.
  • dadajidadaji Posts: 4
    I have 93 Honda Accord 10th Anniversary edition, 183300 miles, auto. I noticed today when accelerating, the needle on the rpm gauge jumps up fast and comes back to normal. This happens when I am accelerating gradually or at least thats what I noticed. Is there anything I need to be worried about? Any ideas on it please?
    Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    Well if the transmission is slipping, you have a lot to worry about...when this occurs, does the car behave like it's in neutral, or does it continue to accelerate normally?

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  • kyaimtr2004kyaimtr2004 Posts: 1
    edited May 2011
    My Accord this problem, star and idle is no problem ,when I press gas pedal a litle this misfire, TPS, IACV, FITV , injectors, fuel filter, spark plug and ignition system is clean, Chek Engine Light no on, What this problem in my car ? HELP ME :cry: :cry: :cry:
  • snickers14snickers14 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. For a month if I loosen the gas cap and let the air out it cranks right up. It did this for 1 month and last night it would not crank at all. I went and bought a new gas cap put it on this morning and it fired right up. Maybe try a new gas cap/
  • dadajidadaji Posts: 4
    Thank you for the reply. When this happens, I think it does behave and accelerates normally.
    Second thing I have noticed that the 'maintenance required' is red. I have the oil changed on it, I had pushed the little thing next to the maintenance required light to green but in a month or so it came back to red. I have asked around and the mechanics are not sure why it might be and they cannot hook up the machine to check what is wrong because my car is too old (93 accord). I tried to get the light back to green but it would not come back to green.
    I am not sure if this is related to my original problem but just throwing out to you guys. Any ideas or if you need any more information, please let me know.
    Thank you.
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