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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Get Honda Shop Manual 94 will work. PDF file">
  • How do you adjust the sensitivity?
    I have a 2002 Accord SE, and the alarm's been going off ALL THE TIME.
    Granted, it keeps people from screwing with it, haha. But it's not very fun running down three flights of stairs ten or so times a night to shut it off.
    And I have street parking, so no way am I just leaving it unlocked.
  • I'm in the market for a 08 Nissan Altima 2.5s. I currently have a 95 Honda Accord 2.7 V6 with 150k miles recently broke down. The mechanic "says" the camshaft and crankshaft sensors went bad and the job would cost about $750 to fix. Besides this issue, the car had a strong engine (great acceleration) and was in fair to good condition aside from having only one working power window (electrical problem), broken odometer, broken fuel gauge and small oil leaks which one could consider cosmetic. KBB value for Private Party is $2,985 in fair condition and $1,515 Trade-In value. My question, should I spend the money to fix the car and use it as a trade in for the Altima or scrap the car and cut my losses. I'm worried that a private seller wouldn't buy the car because of those forementioned issues.
  • tvsethitvsethi Posts: 1
    ok trying to save some money here is a few tips for the rear windows i would personally pull the door panels of on one side front and rear and remove the regulator with motor, its definatley not a hard thing to do AT ALL dont let anyone tell you otherwise, but remove the rear and test to see if the regulators actually work by pluging the wire from the front into this regulator and pushing up and down DO NOT REMOVE ANYTHING fROm the front just the cover and unplug the wire from the regulator, if they work then it possibly is an issue with the wiring test that and ill look for spots to test wiring in the mean time, second the anntena you can find at any junk yard for like 5 bucks, 4th if everything else on the cluster works fine it could be an issue with the speed sensor or cable you can most likely get a sensor for 20 bucks at the part store but dont hold me to that, if you have any other questions let me know i am in a rush sorry for the sloppiness
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    It ain't the VSS It ain't It ain't It ain't.

    If you have Cruise Contreol and it works, that tells you VSS is good.
    You would most likly get a check enige ligth with a bad VSS.

    It is your Speedometer Head.

    I have told you that I have been there with the Speedometer Problem

    There is NO speedometer cable
  • pkim3pkim3 Posts: 1
    duster219, did you fix your alarm problem? Did you change you battery and did it make your problem go away?
    I am having same problem for more than a year. I don't lock my doors any more. (Thank God, I live in safe neighborhood) However, I left my car locked at the airport once for 3 days and of course it drained my battery.

    Anyway, will you let me know if bluetoothninja's solution worked. (new battery)

  • I have a 95 Accord LX with the 2.2l and 4 wheel disc brakes. Over the last month or so, I have noticed a shudder when braking. The steering wheel shudders, and it seems like I have to push on the brakes a bit more to get stopped. For a bit of history here, I just replaced rotors and pads on all four wheels last october, had a new wheel bearing put in the right front, and a new right front cv assembly in February. The cv boot on the drivers side front is cracked, I know about it and am having the entire assembly replaced next friday. What I would like to know is, is it possible that the axle shaft or cv joint could be causing the shudder? The drivers side front wheel "feels" loose to me, almost imperceptibly so, but nevertheless so. Is this a possible cause? Please let me know what you think, thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey folks - haven't been around here in awhile (haven't needed to be). Just thought I'd share an update.

    I've now got 180k miles on my car and my driver's side front suspension is making a tapping/knocking/rattling noise when I hit bumps; not necessarily when turning. It's pretty obvious to me on the interstate, or any rough road for that matter. It's not that loud, but something has obviously gone south - I suspect the CV Boot/Joint. I'm getting an estimate from my local mechanic tomorrow. If it is in fact the CV Joint:

    1.) Should I go ahead and replace them both?
    2.) How much should I expect to pay for 1? 2?

    I'm not upset about having to get this done; 180k seems like really good life out of them. My grandparents just replaced them on their '97 Civic at 110k.


  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    It may also be a tie rod problem, grad.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Thanks... I'm interested in hearing everything it COULD be and everything it probably ISN'T, so I'll be a little more prepared tomorrow.

    Would something like this get me stranded? I actually drove the car today since it hadn't been driven in 4 days; I try to drive it regularly to keep the seals tight.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    CV joints usually make more noise while turning. A rattling sound while going straight sounds more like loose suspension components. It could be the ball joints or a bushing going bad. They will probably make plenty of noise, sometimes for years, before something actually breaks. If you were to jack the wheel up, and shake the wheel, it could give you a hint. If you turn the wheel by hand, and hear a grinding noise, that would be the wheel bearing. I hope it's something minor, grad. Good luck

    If it were to be the cv joint boot, you may as well have the whole thing changed (joint and boot). The labor would be about the same either way.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    CV joints usually make more noise while turning. A rattling sound while going straight sounds more like loose suspension components.

    I thought that about the CV joints too - usually noticeable when turning. It really sounds like there's a loose screw up front!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    As it turns out, my "outside drive axle" is busted on my driver's side front wheel. My mechanic told me it should be doable for under $300 including labor and parts. I thought this sounded reasonable.

  • Hi all
    I hope you can help me. i have a 96 Accord and i was driving along fine when i looked down at my speedo and it was going up and down from 40 to 20 mph then it evened out. Went to a friends house come out and it starts doing it again and then engine was slightly hesitating not much but i could feel it then it evened out again. Went shopping then i was driving and the speed went to 0 even though i was moving and then up and down, then the check engine light came on. Any ideas what the problem is?
    Crazy Brit
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You may have a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) issue. This link is for 4th gen Accords (90-93), but your car may be very similar. Does your cruise control work? Read this, and see if it fits your symptoms. Good luck
  • not checked the cruise control but I am taking the car to a mechanic tomorrow will be ok to drive do you think it is about 40 mins from my house?
    thanks for your help
    Crazy Brit
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    Hey, elroy, this IS the right forum.... 94-97 Accord...

    Hey, crazy_brit, not to worry about driving the car, but yes, your problem is the speed sensor, which is attached to the Distributor.... They're gonna probably replace the Distributor cap also.

    NOW: If you have less than 150,000 miles on the odometer, please check with your area Honda dealer. You will probably be able to fix this UNDER A SPECIAL EXTENDED WARRANTY from Honda, that's good for up to 14 years (your '96 car is now 12 years old) or up to 150,000 miles..... There is a lot of info here, a special service bulletin # 98-081 that's been discussed here extensively.... Do a search...

    ...I had the exact same thing years ago when I still owned this beloved car (it was a '95 V6), took it to my local guy to be fixed, before I was aware of this SB and when I was made aware of it, I called Honda and was reimbursed for the full amout which was around $550.-......

    Hope I helped a little here.....
  • thank you so much for your help, you have put my mind at rest and i can go to the mechanic with some knowledge under my belt!!! So i sound like a woman who knows a bit about cars lol
    Crazy Brit
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    mamamia2 "Hey, elroy, this IS the right forum.... 94-97 Accord... "

    I know it's the right forum, I was talking about the link I provided being for 4th gens. ;)

    That's some great information though. :D Hard to believe they extended the warranty that far.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hello? Is this thing on? :shades:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I'd say $300 is a good price for changing the CV joints. But then, I have no experience in that particular area. Never changed one, or had one changed (knocks on wood). :shades:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, since it wasn't CV joints I have no idea what I should be paying, but that doesn't seem like THAT much. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I thought when you changed one, you changed both, because they come as one part. Maybe I'm wrong. :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Each half shaft (one on each side of the vehicle), has two CV joints each. You don't technically have to replace both right and left side half shafts in only one goes bad.

    However, since they are both going thru the same mileage and turns, if one is failing the other side is usually not far behind. On a number of vehicles when you replace the half shaft, you end up taking a ball joint apart and have to align the vehicle when finished. So generally if I have one CV joint go bad (usually the outer CV joint on the half shaft because that's where the maximum turning occurs), I just replace both half shafts and get it aligned. Then you're not back in with additional problems later.
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    I'm looking a 98 Accord EX (4 cyl) for my new driver daughter. I've had several Honda's including a 98 Odyssey and a 04 CRV. Both great cars with no problems. This Accord is an adult 1 owner car, great shape, and very well maintained with fresh tune-up. It does however have 175K miles. I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items. I would be buying it thru a reputable wholesaler who I've worked with in the past - he knows the owner.

    I'm sure there are some high mileage owners here and I'd appreciate any input on what I should expect from this car. It only needs to last another 18 mths and another 15-20K miles. Price will be $4000
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    This is a thread for 94-97 owners so you may want to check with the next generation thread. However, as an owner of a 95 EX I4 manual with over 220k miles, I'm pleased. I bought a new one in 06 and my son now drives my 95. If the car is properly maintained, you should have no problem making it last much longer.
  • I have a 94 accord that is doing the same thing. Here's where it gets fuzzy though. I put a new engine in my car that only has about 70K on it. Do you think that would still be covered by this extended warranty?
  • shawtyjloshawtyjlo Posts: 5
    I have a 97 Accord EX with 246,000 miles on it. I love my car. It sounds like a good car. They really hold their value. For example, last September a deer ran into the side of my car. It was only two dents the size of maybe a football and since they had to remove the quarters, the insurance company totaled my car. I received a check for about $4300 and bought the car back for $100. I think it would be a good investment. My 86 Accord has 483,000 miles on it and still runs good. Good luck.You can go to carfax or the honda website to look up recalls.
  • yankeey2gyankeey2g Posts: 5

    I'm looking for a 97 Accord repair/service manual. I have a 97 LX 4-non-vtech

    I want to start learning and doing some work on the car myself so I figure it will be best to get hold of the service manual.

    Thanks for any info you can provide.

  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Helm Inc. has the best stuff you can get for doing your own work....reprinted service manuals.
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